*** Official Clevo P67xRP6-G/P67xRS-G (Sager NP8172/8173) Owner's Lounge ***

Sucessfully flashed the two XMG files to my P670RP6 in the order above. Now I have an XMG BIOS.

I think the micro stutterings when opening apps for example is gone, yay!
Thank you!

 

Hi guys!

This is my first Clevo laptop. I bought a Clevo P670RS-G config. Previously I had an Asus G750JX which worked very well and was very quiet. I am very pleased with my Clevo aswell but the fan curve is awful. Have tried both automatic and custom in CCC but none of them are good. Automatic is way to aggressive and Custom makes the fan spin up and down, up and down.

I totally understand if the fans spin up at high temperatures but they are loud already at 50-60 degrees which is just sloppy by Clevo.

Is there anything I can do about this way to aggressive fan curve?

Br J

 

Your problem is that your catalyst control center is using intel XTU for fan control. You'd need to uninstall both, reset NVRAM, and install a version of CCC without XTU support for your fans. Or just use the machine without CCC and use max fans when you want proper cooling (fn + 1 is the toggle).

 

Thanks man. Just to be sure, you mean clevo control center right? Because I have a nvidia card so i dont have catalyst control center installed. Is the fan curve better without clevo control center?

If I uninstall CCC will XTU uninstall aswell? How do I reset nvram? and where do I find a version without XTU? Sorry for all the questions

 

Yes I mean clevo control center.

XTU won't uninstall on its own. Resetting NVRAM either involves disconnecting battery and PSU and CMOS battery for about 30 seconds, holding down the power button for 30 seconds, then reconnecting everything and rebooting, or holding FN + D at boot should do it without disconnecting anything. Finding a version without XTU... erm... @Papusan can you help him out on how to get CCC installed wihtout XTU?

Asking questions is never a bad thing.

 

@Jaxione This is what they do to get rid of XTU http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...s-owners-lounge.795090/page-481#post-10426407
Or you can use a older CCC.
I prefer the older fix. "Never install the Bloat".

 

In case you want the older CCC here it is: http://www.mediafire.com/download/gc7vo32nij6djfi/07_Hotkey.zip

Credit to @Phoenix of course.

 

Hello again, today I facing a problem which does not refer to my bios problem:

first, I'm using an bluetooth mouse. Today i plugged in my external usb hdd, which was nearly dead before.
I wanted to rescue a few files, but the hdd switched off itself and restarted. Exactly at the same moment my bt mouse stopped working.
I tried everything (drivers etc), but my notebook does not pair anymore with ANY device. After 0,5-1min it shows an error (device still aviable?)
Also Windows does not show the bt device names at the discovery screen anymore, only "Phone" or "Mouse".

Is it possible that my external USB HDD damaged my bluetooth? Anything beside that works properly.

EDIT: Simple but... i solved this by shutting down windows COMPLETELY (%windir%\system32\shutdown.exe /s /t 0)

Everything works fine again!

 

Do the updated XMG BIOS and EC address the issue of Clevo Control Center messing with the fan tables?

 

Simple but... i solved this by shutting down windows COMPLETELY (%windir%\system32\shutdown.exe /s /t 0)
No clue why the usb hdd has temporary annoyed my bluetooth... maybe a safety operation of the device

Everything works fine again!

 

Sounds to me like you had hybrid start or something and your Windows was just hibernating when you said "shut down" or "restart". I've seen that happen; windows with like 45 days uptime and they reboot the PC daily.

 

Thanks! If i dont use CCC at all, Will i still be able to control keyboard back light strenght? How will the fans react to not having CCC to control Them? Is there any other app?

 

No. The fans will be as normal controlled by the firmware. Use Fn+1 if you need maximum fan speed.

 

If you do not have CCC at all then you cannot control the keyboard lights as I understand - they will always be the default blue. The default EC will control the fans in this case. If you install CCC then it will tell the EC what to do (I think?). When you switch profiles in CCC it changes what the EC does, which is why a reset is required if you want to fully get rid of it. I think the best option is either installing an old CCC or installing a new one without XTU and then not touching the fan profiles at all. But ymmv.

 

On my system, I couldn't get an older version of CCC to behave properly. I don't mind the blue backlighting, but would prefer to have the keyboard off at all times. It's not worth the tradeoff of wonky fans, though, which is why I asked whether or not the updated EC available for download from XMG addresses this issue.

At least the P670RS doesn't suffer from the problem that the P775ZM did where not having CCC installed would cause the primary audio output to stop functioning after resuming from sleep.

 

Even with CCC uninstalled, the keyboard backlight off button should work. It does on my system; mine is fn + * on the numpad. But changing the colour won't work, yes.

 

The buttons are the same on mine, but the combo doesn't work. Maybe you need to have installed CCC previously, which I've not done on my present Windows config. It's really not the end of the world. I'd just like Clevo to fix this, either through the software or a BIOS/EC update.

 

Hi!

Cant you use GSYNC on theese laptops without having CCC installed? I unistalled CCC and now I have no options for GSYNC in Nvidia control panel Also after uninstalling CCC and resetting VRAM I can only choose 60hz on my 75hz screen

 

In BIOS switch the GPU to discrete mode.

 

Phew, thanks

 

What is the latest BIOS and EC for the P670RS? I have tried everything but I still thinks the fans are behaving strange. The GPU fan always spins up for 1-2 seconds after a while In windows, maybe its when something initiates? But the main problem is the aggressive fan cure, I have excellent temps but still the fans go up way to high. Is there no fix for this? I would accept it if there were reasons for the fans to be so aggressive but since the temps are great its just stupid

 

Hi, has anyone here had TDR errors with the P670RS? I know at least one other person has. I somehow doubt it, but is there a solution? I guess I'll probably end up RMAing to Sager but it would be nice if I could avoid it. I've run memory tests (all good), and checked the hard drives, and reinstalled windows but no luck. The IGPU works fine so I'm guessing it's a hardware problem with the 1070. Edit: I've tried several different nvidia drivers, from the Sager ones to the most recent.

 

it's probably the GPU then

 

What happens if you set the Nvidia drivers to use the IGP only? (manage 3d settings)

Have you tried seeing what dedicated only mode does?

 

Integrated only works fine, though of course has bad performance in Games / Furmark. Dedicated only switched on in the bios (no hybrid) has varying effects, but usually results in a TDR bluescreen fairly quickly, even if no intensive applications are running. Dedicated ony in the nvidia panel in hybrid mode has similar results.

 

Sounds like it needs to come back to me sadly.

 

Yeah, thanks for the suggestions though. I put in a RMA request on the Sager website. Fortunately the problem doesn't seem to be too widespread.

 

No, it does not seem to have been a wide reaching issue, sounds like you got unfortunate

 

Well, actually I'm also having problems with my notebook, and may be related to yours:

->Notebook plugged to the PSU, discrete GPU selected.
--->If I cold boot (first boot after several hours off) the notebook, the screen turns off and on again repeatedly when reaching W10 login screen. Sometimes W10 finally crashes and the notebook reboots; upon reboot, the screen may turn off randomly and recover.
--->If I boot the notebook (second or third reboot after several hours off, or reboot after some time being on), trying to run an intensive GPU program (games, 3dmark, etc...) turns off the screen randomly again, recovering seconds later.
--->W10 event viewer shows "nvlddmkm" stopped working and recovered successfully, as the reason why the screen is turning off.

->Notebook unplugged and running from the battery, discrete GPU selected.
--->Notebook works as expected, I can run intensive GPU programs (games, 3dmark, etc...) without problems, but with the drawback that the discrete GPU can't perform at 100% when running from the battery.

->Notebook plugged to the PSU, MShybrid selected.
--->Notebook works as expected, until I try to run intensive GPU programs (games, 3dmark, etc...) using the discrete GPU.

I've tried a clean installation of W10 with drivers v368.83, v368.71 and v376.33, and I get the same problem with everyone.

And these fellows look like they're having the same issues:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...73-owners-lounge.795990/page-59#post-10422638
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...73-owners-lounge.795990/page-60#post-10422789

 

Had the same issues with TDR errors.. Quite frustrating to diagnose and track down.

Never did come up with a fix. Ended up RMA'ing. The motherboard tested bad (don't think they tested individual components on the Mobo)

It seemed to be closely tied to the current draw of the system ramping up/down. If I disabled C-States, powersaving modes, etc, and watched the Kill-A-Watt, as long as power draw remained relatively stable, the system was fine. It almost seemed like the combination of Skylake's heavy power saving states and Nvidia's heavy powersaving states taxed the Voltage Regulators too much...

Ultimately, the motherboard swap fixed the problem right up. And now my BIOS is nicely modified I hadn't touched the BIOS really, and experiencing that made me tinker...

Seems as though one of the EFI modules is capping the TDP/Current settings though.. always getting an EDP throttle when overclocking.. Not well versed enough in assembly to pinpoint and override yet, but EFI Variable OcSetup gets created w/capped values for PL1/PL2...

As an aside, major props to ProStar and Nathan (Their tech support person I dealt with) for an extremely quick turn-around on my system repair. I dropped it off with them monday before xmas and had it back xmas eve...

 

Hi,
I saw my p670rs-g running at 99 degrees C on the cpu the other day, the laptop is only a month old which leads me to believe there's insufficient thermal paste on the cpu. I'v contacted my supplier and they have given me the choice of either sending it to them for repair or repasting the cpu myself without voiding my warranty.
Is there any chance of the high temp causing any unnoticed damage to any of the components? Or would I know by now if it has? The last thing I want is to uncover an overheating fault whilst repasting the cpu.

 

It's highly unlikely anything was damaged. The CPU is designed to throttle itself once it gets close to dangerous temps. Just repaste it and you should be good to go unless your heatsink is the issue.

 

I think it was throttling, my clock speeds were dropping in task manager when the temps got high. Anyway, i have just repasted the CPU and GPU, and i could tell straight away that the CPU was lacking paste, it had a very uneven layer, the paste on the GPU looked fine though but i replaced it anyway. I don't notice much change at idle except it takes the CPU longer to get hot when going from idle to load, however I've just ran prime95 and furmark simultaneously and the CPU goes no higher than 90 and the GPU is no higher than 80 so its definitely made a difference. 90C still seems a bit on the high side thought or is that to be expected when running those stress tests on a laptop?

Edit: By the way, the CPU was drawing about 48 watts when prime95 was running and only reached 75C when running on its own (no GPU stress)

 

Today i ordered a Intel 8265 wireless card because i could not stand the download and connection drops with the killer 1535 wifi anymore.
I will post my results then.

 

I have the killer wifi and had the same problem, I just uninstalled and deleted the wifi drivers and let windows reinstall it automatically and I haven't had a problem since

 

I solved this also by disabling advanced stream control in killer network suite and deleting its bandwith control protocol. but i just do not trust killer drivers anymore. also the intel card does support bluetooth 4.2

and the download rate still drops from 1,3 to 0,2 mb/s sometimes but no complete loss of connection anymore

 

That's expected. Short of Linpack, P95 and Furmark are the two most heat intensive things you can load your CPU/GPU with. Also, don't run Furmark. It's burned out GPUs in the past. It's unlikely to happen, but something like Heaven with maxed settings is a better test for the max load you would expect while gaming.

 

Be careful running those two tests together, it can over stress the hardware.

 

You have a shared heatsink model, so stressing the CPU can offload heat into the GPU and stressing the GPU can offload heat onto the CPU.

Stressing both together will cause the overall temp to rise significantly higher than single-component stress in your machine.

 

Thanx for the advice, I haven't had to stress a pc for years so I'm a bit behind with things. I only stressed the system for a couple of mins to try and find the maximum temperature.
GTA 5 makes my laptop go up to 90C on CPU and 80C on GPU after about an hour of game play, should I be alarmed at those temps? I'm used to desktops where the GPU is usually hotter than CPU.

 

90 isn't immediately dangerous, but I would be wary about that in the long run. Have you undervolted your CPU?

 

I've tried to repair laptops that have had long term heat problems where the solder under 1 of the bga chips has cracked causing a loose connection, it usually involves a heat gun and a whole lot of luck and even then they don't last long so I want to avoid that as much as possible.

Will dropping the voltage slightly affect performance? I notice prime95 runs the cpu at 48 watts but GTA 5 (which is my most demanding game at the moment) maxes at about 35 watts so going on those numbers I'm guessin dropping the voltage slightly wouldn't make a noticeable hit on performance. Someone please tell me I'm barking up the right tree here!?!

 

Processors have always a bit too high voltage. Only too big undervoltage will lower the performance. And can as well make your machine unstable. You can shaving of a bit.. Depends on the silicon quality. Test it out and see how it goes. And yeah, shared unified heatsink is a unwanted tech.

 

Undervolts don't impact performance at all as long as the voltage is sufficient for your clocks. If you go lower than that, as @Papusan said you can get instability because logic gates in your CPU start mistaking 1s for 0s.

Voltage is the single most effective thing to lower to improve temps, since power is roughly proportional to V²f. For example, if you drop the voltage from 1.3V to 1.2V, that's around a 15% decrease in power. Not sure what the stock voltage is for your CPU, but you can probably get a 100-150mV undervolt easily.

 

I also have a P671-RS that was also noisy and would like to thank the people some posts above for their solution (remove control center, use Fn+d at boot to reset bios).
However after doing this I lost my wireless card. Doing a full shutdown (not default shutdown) in Windows solved this problem.

It's not perfect but way better than with CCC enabled.

However I have another problem: I use an external monitor (a new HPZ24nf) at work connected through the HDMI out port.
From time to time this screen started flickering. Eventually the screen died on me in about a month. HP quickly replaced it.
But now the replacement screen is starting to do exactly the same thing.
Could it be that my lovely clevo laptop is in fact a serial screen killer in disguise? Has any one of you experienced similar problems?

Other than that i love this machine!
Thin, fast, good gaming, well built and rather light compared to my older Medion Erazer X7821.

 

Via an HDMI connection? Highly unlikely. I would say that the HP monitors may simply not be of a terribly high quality or bad luck or something else... Have you tried testing the monitor with another computer to see what it does?

 

I'll have to check but we have 5 of these screens and for now the only one that's acting up is the one i have and it's replacement
Just thought i'll put it out here in case someone has had the same thing. Never had this with any screen, might be down to really bad luck but you never know...
In the end the previous screen was definately screwed over, as the onscreen menu also had the flickering problem, even if it was no longer connected to any pc.
Also obviously i checked the refreshrate was at the specified 60Hz

 

Right, I have dropped my core voltage offset by 160mv which has dropped my max CPU temp to about 75C while running GTA 5 for any length of time and it takes much longer to reach that max temp. Any lower than -160mv makes the laptop freeze when the CPU is under load. The GPU hits 80C which I can live with as long as it goes no higher.
I have also bought a vacuum cooler to stick on the side vent to use for prolonged gaming. My temps with that thing on go down by as much as 10C.

Thanx to everyone for all the advice, it really has helped me, the last time I messed with voltages was when I had to OC my core 2 quad desktop, I had to raise the voltage quite a lot to get that thing stable, never thought I'd be lowering voltages on my next pc

 

Help what is the difference between
P670RP6 vs P670HP6?

 

Its like deciphering a code with these goddamn model numbers. Finally found a site with the two: http://www.gentechpc.com/Sager-NP8172-S-Clevo-P670RP6-nVidia-GTX-1060-8GB-p/sager-np8171-s.htm vs https://www.gentechpc.com/Sager-NP8176-Clevo-P670HP6-G-nVidia-GTX-1060-8GB-p/sager-np8176.htm the RP6 is 6th gen cpu and no g-sync screen?