*** Official Clevo P75xDM and P77xDM/Sager NP9758-G and NP9778-G "Batman 2.0" Owner's Lounge ***

Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a shot and hope for the best. I really don't want to have to RMA it.

 

Just do what I did - get the I got to get the fastest right now out of your head you will continue to chase your tail.
I bought 4x 8gb hyperx 2133., and am going to wait for the memory issue to sort it self out with regards to -
better selection of mem modules
bios support for faster speeds
use the 32 gb for a while and enjoy the boost you get later
look into creating a ram disk with part of what you have

in reality unless you are using the machine for very intensive (3d CAD, super hi res photo editing ect) tasks 64gb is overkill
YMMV.

 

Higher speed ram is really not something to get too worked up about, especially in a machine without an IGP.

 

yeah, going for the highest ram speed and/or overclocking ram is more of an e-peen sport it can be quite fun (and ive already done it myself), but u should never start into it with expectations of any significant performance boosts

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Anyone on here own the Eurocom Sky X6 and/or have any experience with it? How are the temps? And how much of an OC can I expect from the i5 6600k?

 

Temps will be fine with some good thermal paste...

As for OC in the i5-6600K, expect 4.0GHz if you get a good chip.. The i7-6700K is much better due to HT and comes out of the box @ 4GHz and most of them easily can be pushed to 4.5++

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

 

Hi guys I'm thinking of going back to Clevo from an Alienware for my next machine. I'm primarily interested in the P775dm and P870dm. I have a few questions if someone can help.

(1) I came across some information stating that the P775dm and P870dm have different watt 980 GTX cards (180W and 200W respectively).

- Is this true?
- If so what is the performance difference between them?

(2) They both look like good machines, but the P870dm looks like a more sturdy build. What worries me in particular about the P775dm is that the LCD screen is held by two (relatively thin hinge struts), while the P870dm has a single solid central hinge (like my m17x R3). This is an issue for me as my last Clevo (from years ago) lid hinges both broke before any of the usual component suspects did.

- What is the build quality of the hinges/struts for the P775dm like?

Thanks

 

1) the TDP rating only influences the amount of overclock ull finally be able to reach, but at stock clocks theres basically no difference whatsoever and yes, those values of 180W in the P775DM1 and 200W for the P870DM are correct!

2) im sporting the P751ZM that basically sports the same chassis as the P7 DM series, with a few minor differences. ive had the machine for about 11 months now and havent had any trouble with the hinges whatsoever but, of course, YMMV, especially depending on how you treat your machines ive seen users complaining about non-sturdy builds on machines and then reveal that they basically just throw those machines unprotected into backpacks full with other stuff while on the move i for one would never do such and always treat my machines with the utmost respect! (i depend on them work-wise, after all, and they also cost a BUNCH of money!)

so yeah, if youre not as "white-gloved" as i am, then i would probably suggest you to get a P870DM instead

thing is, the P775DM is not out yet, ive only seen people test developer-machines of this model, but im not aware of any batches that have been send out to regular customers yet.

also, for more information, check out the respective owner`s lounge:

P870DM - http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...70dm-owners-lounge-phoenix-has-arisen.781814/

 

So I got my P751DM three days ago, I've been tweaking it for real-time audio processing (low DPC etc) and after disabling a bunch of crap in Windows 10 I can get DPC latency down to < 5us which is really nice.

First impressions are mixed.

The good:

1) The keyboard half of the laptop is solid as a rock, very well built.

2) Ports are conveniently laid out (I like most ports to be on the left side while the right side is left empty for the mouse).

3) The internal components layout makes efficient use of space whilst everything is easily accessible, with just a small screw-driver.

4) Runs very cool considering how much power it packs.

The bad:

1) The display half of the laptop is flimsy as f*ck and it provides hardly any mechanical support to the LCD panel, which is left to support itself. As a result, even small amounts of movement put strain on the LCD panel causing colour distortion and irregular backlight artefacts. They really should do an aluminium version, it would be amazing.

2) The rubberised finish is totally unnecessary. The plastic on the bottom of the laptop and the of the display is nice and rugged, and easy to wipe clean. The rubberising gets dirty in a hurry, feels like sh*t to the touch and (probably) scratches very easily. Furthermore, based on my experience with previous rubberised products, the rubberising eventually peels off.

3) Bezel shape not uniform (as already mentioned) resulting in irregular pressure around the LCD panel, causing what looks like screen bleed. As I gently flex the bezel the bleed changes. I believe it may be possible to snap off the bezel and use fine sand paper to remove a tiny bit of material and create a little extra room for the LCD to sit more comfortably. Has anybody tried disassembling the display? If so, it would be good to post instructions here, for example, showing the location of the plastic tabs that hold it together, and the best way to do it to avoid breaking anything.

Would appreciate any tips on

 

Alrighty, I thought i would consult the brain trust to help with my layman questions.

My 2008 laptop is really not able to pull its weight anymore so it is time to upgrade. I realize that compared to my current laptop, ANYTHING would be an upgrade at this point, but before dropping nearly 3000$ on a laptop I wanted to be sure of some things.

I wanted to purchase the Sager NP9758.

Dumb question 1) They are denoted as NP9758 S or G depending on the website (With LPC digital being the one that adds the G for G-Sync, S from Xotic PC) but I assume they are identical correct? Sure seem to be.

Dumb Question 2) Building these things online are pretty straight forward except when it comes to the hard drives. I've read through about 50 pages of this thread and read a few reviews by htwingnut, but am still a bit confused, and I would hate for a poor hard drive set up to be what holds back this beast of a laptop.

I'm fine with just having a 1TB 2.5 HDD as the storage drive, but when it comes to the main SSD, I hear conflicting opinions on whether it is best to use an m.2, a 2.5, or a PCIe m.2 SSD.

So what say you all?
1) 500GB Samsung 850 EVO Series SATA 6Gbps SSD
2) 500GB Samsung 850 EVO M.2 SSD 3D V-NAND
3) 512GB Samsung 950 PRO NVMe PCIe M.2 V-NAND-based SSD

There are price differences between all these options for sure, but I just want a good, fast reliable drive. I would go for the "new hotness" PCIe but I keep hearing things about heat throttling and stuff like that. Even hear about that with just regular M.2 SSD. I'm not a power user. I don't edit video or anything. Just play mah video games.

I appreciate your help!

 

Has anyone installed Windows 7 on this beast? If so, can you point me to the exact procedure you used to slipstream the USB drivers into the install media?

 

1) This is not a forum thread that deals with that model, so me or other users probably can't help you, but luckily there are some distributors and experts here on the forum, so they might help you...
Sorry, I was stupid to not notice it's just a Sager version, just got home from working late, so my attention span was lowered. I actually don't get this, Sager is a rebranded Clevo, and Xotic is a rebranded Sager's Clevo? In any case, go after which Clevo chassis they mention using.

2) My setup is this, and I've been happy with it:
2 x SM951 NVMe 256GB in RAID 0
I split it in two partitions - 150GB for the system, software (mostly Adobe CC) and games (I will never have more than 1-2 games installed at a time), and 330GB for work - I do video production and photography.
On it's own, the drive has a 2200MB max speed, which is really blazing fast, but just because I can, I paired two in RAID 0 to get 3200MB/s. No idea about what issues other guys were talking about, it works great.
Throttling does not happen in everyday use scenario. It happens when you copy huge amounts of data for a long time at maximum speed. That never happens. For instance, you can copy a collection of 30GB of movies or music at full speed and it would not happen. You can even copy huge amounts of data from your SATA SSD to it and it would not happen because you wouldn't be using it at full speed. The whole throttling issue is overstated. I edit videos, scrub multiple fullHD tracks at the same time while editing and I never noticed any slowdown...
I would definitely advise to get the best modern tech can offer and go for the NVMe M.2 SSD.
1 x 256GB 850 EVO SATA SSD
I use this as my current storage - downloads, music, movies... Plenty enough for that. I did not want to use any old school HDDs in the laptop because I don't want any noise (the laptop is silent if not pushed to perform), heat and spinning HDDs use more power.
2 x 2TB HDDs in an external eSATA case in RAID 1 as a safe backup for my work, software and other important stuff. I only turn it on when I need to transfer something to/from it.

 

Double post

 

The 950 Pro is the best you can get right now. Though Samsung is expected to release a 1 TB version in the next couple months along with 4TB versions of their SATA SSD's. I have two 512GB SM951 (the OEM version of the 950 PRO) and they are amazing. I use my system for CAD and computer engineering simulations and I definitely notice the difference with them vs SATA SSDs. I have a 2TB 850 PRO for storage because disk access times for spinning disk drives are unbearable to me. If you can afford the 950 Pro, and you don't need more than 512 GB then get the 950 PRO. If you need more than 512GB then put something cheap in it for now and suck it up until the 1TB 950 PRO's come out in a couple months.

This is an absolutely amazing laptop.

Incidentally I'd recommend checking out Prostar, which is where I got mine from (I don't work for them or get anything in return for recommending them). They beat everyone else I looked at by over $600 (and I got the Quadro GPU, could have saved more if I got a GeForce). I got lucky finding them right before I ordering and had never heard of them before but they've been around since 1992 and have a great reputation. They also ship within a week (and offer rush build and ship in a day for some systems). They aren't a Sager reseller either. They deal direct with Clevo. They also from my experience so far have excellent customer service. Anyways thought I'd throw that out there. Good luck and no matter where you get it from, it's an amazing laptop.

 

The S models have more RAM+SSD etc for cheaper compared to the non S one when you configure both the same.. I would suggest you get it from a reseller since they will deal directly with Sager and save you a lot of hassle... Reseller wise, I cannot recommend Xotic due to some of the shambles I have been seeing over the last few months from them however it's not like their bad or anything, just can't get their IT systems sorted out... Quite a few resellers out there like LPC Digital, Powernotebooks, GentechPC who I swear by personally, great service from when I got my G73.. There is also Prostar so quite a few options..

SSD wise, my suggestion would be to get your own.. Look around and you can get them really cheaply... You need to learn how to open the laptop up to repaste the CPU+GPU, clean fans so it Wil be a good experience to install them on your own.. Its pretty simple in the 9758.. I would say get a SM951 256GB NVME and then get a 960GB Sandisk Extreme Pro SSD which is going for really cheap and gives top notch performance... Personally, if you just want to play games, no need to get the M.2.. The Sandisk is more than enough..

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

 

Quick Question. How is the keyboard removed? I've found 2 screws and pushed thru on the hole labeled KB and have one side of the keyboard loose, but the rest is hanging tight and I am afraid applying more pressure will break/bend the keyboard.

 

I had to remove the keyboard because they made a mistake when assembling and connected the led lights cable the wrong way. So I called them and got instructions on how to do it. You are doing it right, you just need to gently pull on the top of the keyboard until it snaps out of place. And when you put it back, first slip in the bottom part and push it in until it snaps. Just be careful not to bend or damage the cables.

 

Thanks, appreciate the reply.

The top left is loose, but the top right is tight and is not letting go.

 

Just pull a bit harder. There's also a magnet beneath it holding it flat. It shouoldn't brake, just use reasonable force.

 

u may have forgotten to get one of the two screws out holding the kb in place...

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks,

No both screws were out, but it held on for dear life. The keyboard is out now but appears bowed in the middle (maybe the reason it had trouble being removed).

 

Well for those who stumble across this thread, I'll try and document what I am doing to get Windows 7 installed on this notebook with a Samsung 950 Pro M.2 nVME as the boot drive. It still isn't working, but getting closer.

1. Skylake processors no longer support EHCI support which means without patching your windows installation, neither your keyboard, mouse, nor any USB installation media will work without patching your installation media. I did so with the MSI Smart tool found here.

https://service.msicomputer.com/msi_user/support/TechFAQdetail.aspx?formid=3350

With description video here:



2. Next appears to be a UEFI issue. With UEFI enabled, the windows 7 installation hangs at the logo screen. With UEFI disabled, the installation does not see the Samsung 950 Pro M.2 NVME drive. To solve the drive not being seen, Samsung's NVME drivers were loaded onto a USB stick and installed. This enables the Windows installation to see the drive. These drivers were found here.

http://www.win-raid.com/t29f25-Recommended-AHCI-RAID-and-NVMe-Drivers.html

Unfortunately, once Windows sees the drive it states the OS cannot be installed on it.
Any ideas?

 

I'm just curious, why would you want to use such old software?

 

Windows 10 security is unacceptable.

Microsoft has killed off Windows Media Center.

I don't like beta software.

 

First Clevo and not a happy camper so far. The keyboard seems to be warped.

Also...Are Clevo BIOSes always so sparse and is their provided documentation always so poor?

There are almost no options in the BIOS. The few that ARE there are contradictory and do not match the documentation. For example he UEFI setting states that if UEFI is enable, it is in Secure Boot, yet under the Security BIOS there is an option to turn Secure boot on and off. Which is correct?

None of those option match what is in the user manual.

Anyone have any experience with these settings and what they ACTUALLY do?

 

Thanks so much for the advice on the hard drives. I'm glad to hear the overheating talk is largely over-rated/not applicable to normal use. My apologies for talking about my purchase in Sager terminology (considering the thread), but I appreciate the re-seller information. With the start of the new year I look forward to joining the Batcave. Thanks again.

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...an-nvme-ssd-from-a-usb-3-0-thumbdrive.783921/

 

I do

I didn't like 8, but 10 was a smooth experience, I really like it.
You can always use something like this if you are a terrorist
http://bgr.com/2015/08/14/windows-10-spying-prevention-privacy-tools/

Media center was kind of useful on some old hardware, but now with scaling, OS with lower demands and cheap tiny and powerful fanless hardware, you can have a nice HTPC with full blown Windows... Not sure why it would be usefull on our laptop, but there are plenty of alternative HTPC programs out there, some free and nice.

 

if you want more options: go get yourself premamod for your machine, thatll unlock tons of extra options - www.premamod.com

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Am I missing something? I don't see Premamod's bios for the Batman 2 on his website...

 

Prema is working on a BIOS for the Batman 2.0

 

WMC is the only package that can be used with a cable card tuner to view encrypted content.

 

Ok cool, I don't want to sound annoying, just discussing here...
But maybe it's easier to get a 50£ microPC that looks like a USB stick and connects to your tv and can run Win7 to view/record tv? That way you don't have to use your laptop as a TV. I understand there are situations when it's the only screen you can use if you have no space and stuff... It's just my point of view that I wouldn't get a 2000£ laptop to use it as a tv.

 

It's a valid point. But another way of looking at it is, if you are spending $2k on a laptop, you shouldn't be LOSING functionality.

At some point if the WIN 10 reviews continue to be positive, and the security community's investigations of it's spying are mature, I'll probably make the jump.

 

Thanks for the guide.

Unfortunately it doesn't work with the P770DM-G and a 950 Pro.

It is essential what I had been doing. Slipstreaming the USB drivers in works fine, but Windows will still not install to the drive after "F6"-ing the NVME drivers.

Giving the following error:

"Windows cannot be installed to this disk. This computer's hardware may not support booting to this disk. Ensure the disk's controller is enabled in the computer's BIOS menu."

 

This might be unrelated, but might be useful if you need Win7 at any cost...
In my system I have two SM951s in RAID 0. When I installed Windows 10, the RAID driver that came from the dealer didn't work - the installation didn't even recognize it, so I downloaded the latest Intel RAID driver from here and it worked like a charm
https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/25165/Intel-Rapid-Storage-Technology-Intel-RST-RAID-Driver
Now, on that page it says the driver is compatible with Windows 7, so what you can do is get another 950 Pro, put them in RAID and use this driver to install windows. Windows 7 might not play well with NVMe drives, but it should with Intel RAID controllers, which would in this case act as an intermediate between NVMe and Windows 7.
I know it's an expense, but in turn you do get a faster RAID 0 stripped volume (not sure if RAID 1 redundancy is worth it with SSDs, an external backup seems more reasonable). BUT! What you might want to try without getting another drive is setting up RAID with only one drive as a JBOD, in that case the Intel RAID controller is still in charge, but using just one drive. Not sure if it will allow it, but it should.

 

There was a hotfix for windows 7 to get it to support NVME, make sure that is included in the install.

 

Just an interesting video I stumbled upon... Seems the SM951 is a better performer than the 950 PRO, it allows for higher temperatures before throttling. In real life this almost never happens - how often do you copy 200GBs at once at full speed. It starts to throttle slightly after about 120GBs. Since the M.2 ports both have air vents on our machines, it helps, especially if you have a laptop cooling pad creating a breeze around them.

 

Hi all,
Ive had my u706 for about 2 weeks now and I must say I am very impressed so far. I dont have the abilty to update stuff as of yet beasue of slow internet but the chassis itself is muched improved from my old 170hm I had. I cant believe how cool this thing is!!! Have been playing witcher 3 and with a 180mV undervolt on the 6700k Im not going over 62C or 64C on the 980m. The fan is a little annoying but I suppose thats why it is so cool. Has anyone managed to achieve an undevolt on the 980m? I am running the standard overclock but that is more than eough for me.

 

I have a p770dm from mythlogic and just tried to flash the prema vbios for 980m. I'm now stuck in a boot loop. I followed the instructions which just said run modme.bat. any ideas what's going wrong?

Edit: I believe I read somewhere back in the tread some of the latest nvidia drivers may not have been compatible with the prema vbios for 980m. Is this the case for me? If ao, what are my options for fixing. I'd rather not do a full restore.

Edit2: Did a system restore to a month ago. Prema vbios has been successfully installed. Couple of things to fight around with after doing the restore but minor and unrelated to the vbios. I.e xtu is acting a little funny.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

 

@AtiNZ Just stay away from the FUBAR 361 driver! It doesn't work with older vBIOS (stock and mod) which the Mods are based on...

 

Thanks @Prema. I saw some of your posts on other threads regarding EVGA Precision and even maybe MSI Afterburner brick in LCDs. What are safe alternatives for overclocking?

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NVIDI Inspector all the way!

 

The interface could be quite a bit more friendly but the base code is solid on inspector.

 

That's actually a very interesting video. Neat to see it in action.

 

Most, if not all of us, encountered issues when running latest nvidia 361 drivers and either already running or flashing first time premamod for 980m gsync in dm/dm-g versions.

As you already did, it's best to revert to previous drivers.

 

It really depends on the kind of workload you are doing.

 

speaking of the 361 driver, when I installed it my GPU fans never stopped spinning even while I was just surfing the web or even while leaving the computer idle.

Went back to the latest recommended driver by CLEVO which is 359.00

 

Actually, every test I saw shows how similarly they perform, with the SM951 topping the charts more often than not. By not much though, their performance is almost exactly the same.
But with thermal throttling always being the biggest "issue" with them, I wanted to show how much of a non-issue it is, especially since the 950 Pro was supposed to eliminate those shortcomings and was introduced as the superior, newer drive, it is actually worse than the SM951 in that respect. The only thing it has going for it is the consumer support, but my opinion is that the SM951 is still a better buy.

 

Not always as I said:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/9702/samsung-950-pro-ssd-review-256gb-512gb/4