*** Official Clevo P75xDM and P77xDM/Sager NP9758-G and NP9778-G "Batman 2.0" Owner's Lounge ***

That's actually a pretty good score! What's your voltage Settings with this score @TomJGX?

I have the feeling that I reached my wall with the weaker Card at ~1400Core/1500Mem/100mv.

 

7

Clocks were 1438MHz/1553MHz and voltage was 1.15V or 1.175V...

 

I'll be joining in with the benchmark fun in a second. My 980M isn't the best clocker but I've got the CPU running very nicely!

Thought I'd let any UK members know there's currently 20% off any ebay product over £20 (maximum discount of £50).

Just picked up a 512GB SM951 NVMe for £130 after discount and VAT reclaim.

Does anyone know of any slimline chargers for the P77xDM? I have the 330w and it's huge. I'd expect to have to throttle a few things back but what's the minimum amp required to register a charger?
@Stooj you seen incredibly knowledgeable of electrical engineering and able to read the data sheets in a way beyond me.
Would a 180w charger be recognized by the laptop? Even charge it while it's browsing/idling?

 

In general, as long as the voltage is within spec (FYI, 19.5V for the P700), usually a ~3-5V tolerance, the actually current output of the charger should not be a huge problem as long as you exceed the idle power consumption and charge rate of the battery. In the case of the P700 (idle) that's ~30-40W for the system (depending on drives/brightness) and typically and additional 40-50W needed to charge the battery at the highest speed, it can probably get away with 20W though.

As far as I can tell, most of the power gets funnelled into the CPU under extreme load situations. So as long as you're not doing any huge CPU crunching 180W should be plenty. Hell, even typical gaming loads don't get near that.

Looking at the service diagram, there's no immediately obvious current limitations I can see. I'd have to go through the spec sheet for the charging IC itself to see.

 

I still need to rep some other users before I can thank you properly but cheers for the info.

That was the impression I was under but I wanted to be sure before pulling the trigger. Having to manually change BIOS profiles by hand every time just for a smaller charger would be such a hassle. I'm sure I'm not at 330w but I'm glad I don't have the 220w.

I'll have a look around, I think I've seen some slim 180w Lite-On chargers that fit the bill but the collar around the female port on the laptop can stop some plugs fitting properly. I'll look for the 160-180w range and see what I can come up with.

 

On a related note, while searching for some of the components of the charging circuit I found that much of the P700 charging system is actually the same the older P375SM. So you may be able to see if other users have successfully found one for that model as well.

Especially considering its power consumption varied hugely based on config. You could configure it down as low as a Haswell i3 MQ processor and a GTX965M (at the end of it's life) so surely a smaller 180W adapter must've been considered.

 

The logistics of having many adapters makes it not so easy to have many options.

 

I completely agree. I suppose I'd be looking at it as almost a docking station for extra power.
The 330w is large and perfect for overclocking and maximizing my system but since I can underclocck and adjust most hardware performance levels in software.
I fly a lot roughly twice every 3 months and while certain airlines allow "a small second bag;:a handbag or small laptop bag" having a portable charger, even at the expense of power would certainly have its utility to me. I believe there are some 180w LiteOns that seem to they'd do a good job.

 

If you can find it and ensure the machine does not over draw then fair enough, though the plug is hard to find, I guess you could mod it if you are happy with a soldering iron.

 

@stonetrap: It's a 4-pin "Kycon" connector and should be relatively easy to order through an electronics store. Trick is, Kycon doesn't appear to be the largest supplier of them (as counter-intuitive as that seems). From what I've seen everyone just calls it a "4-pole dc connector" now.
It's also commonly called a "DIN power" connector which is wrong.

Here's one made by Multicomp:
http://au.element14.com/multicomp/pm4490002-a05/plug-dc-power-free-4-pole/dp/1876289

Element14 are also available overseas under other names.

Key part is which pins are wired to what. Usually Pin 1+2 are positive and 3+4 are negative (haven't got my multimeter on me so I can't confirm).. Since it'll be coming from a smaller capacity adapter with only a single negative and positive you'll have to bridge the pins. There's also no EMI filter included so you'd have to get one of those.

 

I'd be more than happy with the modding of it. I'm more concerned with over-inflated wattage ratings and cheap generic chargers. I think this kind of plug is only hard to find in the lower end of town, it seems more common where serious poer delivery is concerned.

Hahah I made almost that exact post in this very thread! I was helping someone searching or suggesting building an extender with Kycon plugs and DIN plugs.

There are some output and size appropriate offerings from Lite-On and Li-Shin with potentially compatible connectors that look quite tempting. I'm not familiar with Li Shin despite a passing interesting in power supplies in general but they do seem respectable. I just wanted something cheap enough, safe and small.

Unfortunately all these charger connector often have collars a little further down from the main connection them and these aren't standardized so while I may find the perfect unit electrically if the plastic collar is too close to the connector I won't be too close to charging.
For example this charger I almost bought. Would have been the perfect test but the plastic collar on the cable prevented me from testing it.

 

Has there been any update on the NVMe boot times. I just ordered the 950 Pros and will be installing soon. I've heard boot times of 20+ seconds.

Side note, opened up my P750DM-G and removed the keyboard, noticed the slim tape on the left hand had been pinched between the base plate and the base of the keyboard for some inordinate amount of time. The tape sheered once the keyboard was lifted enough to inspect. The tape does not look like it controls key registration, so it's either LED or RGB for the backlight. Any idea on whether just the tape can be replaced or will the whole keyboard need replacing?

Edit: So I no longer have keyboard LED, my assumption was correct. Anyway, I've found replacement keyboard from RJTech for under 150, but replacing an entire keyboard for just one slim tape that needs replacing is wasteful and foolish. I wonder if the keyboard is warrantied by the manufacturer; I'll have to contact my reseller and ask. I've googled the manufacturer of the keyboard, but I haven't found any information on just ordering the needed tape.

Anyone who's been here before, or any resellers know of a best way to proceed?

 

Ouch sorry to hear that happened. Could you take some pictures of the tape and the shearing? I'm thinking it's the ribbon cable.
There are (to my knowledge) a few companies that make keyboards for Clevo and they make keyboards for just about every manufacturer.
With a picture it might be possible to tell if you can replace just the one ribbon cable at both ends rather than a whole new keyboard.

150USD seems pretty steep though I can see a keyboard being the kinda thing you need in a hurry. Send me a PM if it's not too late to cancel.

 

You are correct, it is the ribbon cable to the left. The keyboard functions normally without the cable intact, vice the fancy light show. Not in a terrible position. The cable appears replaceable; there is some incredibly effective tape fastening it to the keyboard. I'm assuming this is where it makes electrical connection. The manufacturer SUNREX does not appear to offer replacement ribbon cable. I'm not going to order the new keyboard. It would be a waste. I will see if the KB is under warranty for this. I will also see if it is possible to replace the cable.

 

On what OS? on Windows 10, the boot time is around 8 seconds. On Windows 7, it is 30 seconds +. That's the main reason I am on Windows 10 although I prefer 7.

 

I tend to stick to real delta or similar makes for modding purposes. Can't hide the true quality when opening it either

 

Undoubtedly the best. However with the cost of another 330w adapter now I could have the P870DM-G. Personally my comprise is that it's still a respectable branded one rather than generic. Lite-on are adequate for my needs and I've never heard of any faults with their chargers, though naturally you'll have been exposed to a great deal more than me.
Any recommendations, as Meaker, not speaking for Sager, as to what might be a suitable affordable 180w charger I could pick up in the UK woukd be?

 

Anything made by a proper power supply company really, again delta, Li-shin or FSP (the latter i have seen going for a reasonable price).

 

@Prema is a BIOS for the P750DM-G still in the works, or is it on pause, or abandoned? Last we talked back in December, I believe you said it was in testing

 

It was released to Partner Shops awhile back...if you bought from one of them you can request the update via their support.

Public releases are now always a bit later as in the past too many shops sold their hardware with my stuff without permission and then sending their customer to me for support.

That being said I always try to help user out, which where unable to purchase from a partner and make the effort to PM me, whenever I find a free moment...

 

I bought through LPC, I don't think they're one of your partners. Does that means I'm out of luck?

 

How are you guys finding XTU? I've been using it to undervolt and apply a small overclock of 4.1ghz but as soon as I benchmark it it drops back down to 4.0Ghz

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

 

If you have the Prema-Bios, then there is no need for XTU. And if you haven't, XTU is worthless either.

Gesendet von meinem LG-H955 mit Tapatalk

 

Stick with ThrottleStop to monitor temps and throttling.

Gesendet von meinem LG-H955 mit Tapatalk

 

Hi, first time post (on this thread), I have a few questions if someone can help? I own a P751DM-G with i7 6700 and 980M.

1. I was hoping to add a second M.2 SSD for a bit of extra capacity, (I have a spare one). It seems to have 3 M.2 slots, one is near the HDD and is occupied by my Samsung NVMe from the factory build. One is occupied by my wifi card. The third is under the keyboard. But it is very short and my spare SSD is far too long. Have I missed something - are M.2 SSDs in different form factors? Or is there another slot I haven't found?

2. Can someone help, what is the purpose of the Prema vBIOS? Have seen a lot about it but very little about what it's for.

3. Like others, I have installed the 364.72 drivers and my G-Sync option has disappeared. It was there before but now gone. I assume this is a bug with the driver, or at least I hope. Any predictions on whether this will be fixed with a later release?

4. My track pad is driving me mad. I do a lot of report writing in MS Word and just the slightest touch while typing causes the mouse pointer to skip, often resulting in accidentally deleting something or entering text in the wrong place. This is seriously slowing down my work at the moment and can find no solution besides disabling the trackpad and using an external mouse, which is not always possible.

5. Finally, I have 2 8GB sticks of DDR4 for a total of 16GB. They are sitting next to each other in the same physical bank. Normally you have to install the sticks in opposite banks to enable dual channel, but don't know how the banks are arranged. How to tell if dual channel is active?

Many thanks in advance?

 

1. Yes M.2 SSDs come in different sizes,, not too sure which size is the correct one but you need something like SM951 length SSD to be able to fit it in your clevo.

2. Prevents throttling in games and better overclocking and GPU performance tbh..

3. Go back to 362.00, these newer drivers are junk..

4. Have you got the synaptic drivers installed? If so, get the latest version, Phoneix has a P870DM driver thread and use the touchpad driver from there.. Will work on P751DM too

5. There are 4 slots, 2 under the keyboard and 2 under the bottom cover.. See the clevo manual which you can find on Prema's website about the ordering of the slots..

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

 

I'm having a different experience. XTU works extremely well for me (v6.0.2.4). Undervolt and overclock settings stick once set and the settings remained even after I uninstalled XTU. I don't know how it works but I'm guessing it must be changing some values on the BIOS as I've reinstalled Windows and the settings were still there.

 

Thank you!

 

I used XTU for a while and it was getting me instabilities whereas the same setting applied via Bios were rockstable.

Also I don't like a program messing up with my Bios settings.

It's not that I despise XTU, it's more that there is no need using it when having @Prema Bios and ThrottleStop at your side!

Gesendet von meinem LG-H955 mit Tapatalk

 

I picked up the 330W LAPTOP POWERPACK for 15.6" Octane II from PCS @ £69.00 before delivery, so now have the 230W as a spare.

 

1.You will need to use a M.2 2280 ssd, which is pretty common. You should also ask your reseller why they installed the WiFi card on slot intended for M.2 ssd.
5. use CPU-Z or AIDA64 to check if dual-channel is active. Sticks should be installed next to each other.

 

Can you post pictures? @bwrlane

 

Thanks - will leave it a few days as I need the machine for work and need a bit of time to take the lid off again.

Thanks - 1. so there are 2 full length slots and one short? Well the empty one is the short one! There's a full length SSD in the slot just next to the HDD.
5. Aha, yes according to CPU-z dual channel is active so all good.

 

That's just weird. Technically you can do that since the M.2 slots are keyed for PCIE but there's no reason to if the x1 slot is free. As far as I know, all M.2 Wifi/combo cards are electrically only PCIE x1. If you're happy to, you could probably move it over to the correct slot yourself with relative ease. Routing the antenna cables could be annoying though, depending on where they were routed.

It's worth noting, if you intended to install other standalone PCIE cards you would have to occupy one of the full M.2 slots anyway. On a related note there is apparently a M.2/USB3 dedicated slot somewhere for 3G/LTE hidden keyboard side.

 

The cards can be swapped around if needed so if they have done it oddly at least it's not a big problem.

 

I wrote on another forum (in another language) how to install a 3g modem in the p751. Pictures are available.

Le : forgot to post the link. http://forum.tekadvice.ro/viewtopic.php?p=42#p42

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Thank you. Can anyone post a link to a diagram or video with the exact motherboard layout for this machine? Am confused about exactly what is in it and where.

 

Why did nvidia erase G-sync support in the new driver?
You guys think they did it on purpose?
I really dont understand why they did so.

 

New BIOS for P75x/77x from mysn. (except 775 model).
Download link:
http://www.mysn.de/driver/XMG/XMG_U506_und_U706/Bios/

A kind warning to those who plan to update with that bios, a past version of bios from mysn for P75x/77x was bricking systems, as it was actually designed for P775 model.

@XMG is this version safe for flashing on 75x/77x models? (no 775 )

 

was thinking of purchasing liquid ultra. was wondering is all i would have to do is delid the cpu correct? and then brush/put a little bit on the chip inside and then just put on the IHS(no need to glue it up etc) correct?

 

It does what it says on the tin ;-) The previous issue with the BIOS was Clevo's fault btw, they sent everyone a "P7xxDM" BIOS and didn't state (i.e. it wasn't in the release notes) that it didn't support the P775DM1 chassis. AFAIK it was only on our site for a day before it was updated, but appeared on some mirrors which we don't have control over.

 

http://valid.x86.fr/p1gczk



Just to posf before I head off for the night. Will try for more benchs tomorrow.

 

So EVGA has now launched a 17 inch 4K gaming laptop...

 

Nvidia support have got back to me and asked for screen grabs of the Nvidia control panel showing the lack of G-SYNC with drivers 364.72.

So multiple screen shots taken showing the control panel as well as the system information tabs for both drivers, hopefully we will get an answer soon.

 

I wrote also in the driver thread in the gaming area; I also have a support ticked opened with nvidia regarding the lack of gsync in drivers following 362 version. I sent them a bunch of file and they are trying to reproduce the issue and hopefully they will have it fixed.
They were actually pretty prompt in fixing the missing hw id for 980m in P751 models back in december when I wrote to them.

 

@myx @CEUOTC - trust me Nvidia already have all the information that they need, our R&D department is in daily communication with them and they have had a flood of information from us about this topic already.

Not to put anything against your efforts at all, it's great that the community is being proactive in confronting Nvidia about this directly. Just to say that the email you received from NVIDIA Customer Care doesn't take into account the fact that they have been working on this for some time now ;-)

 

@XMG Good to know fella

 

This is the issue with having everything locked at all levels, you break one part and it locks out. They would not have had this particular trouble if it was kept open but that's up to Nvidia.

 

Well l received a reply from NVIDIA support which asked me to select v-sync off?

1. So l re-installed driver version 364.72 and selected v-sync off and lo and behold........G-SYNC did not "much to my surprise" magically appear.

2. So re-installed driver version 362.00 and G-SYNC was once again available.

Not sure why l was asked to check v-sync? So have replied stating my results........I wonder if l am talking to a bot

 

G-sync is broken on P6 and P7 models with all nvidia driver after 362.03...and still they haven't fixed it after months...