*** Official Clevo P75xDM and P77xDM/Sager NP9758-G and NP9778-G "Batman 2.0" Owner's Lounge ***

Sorry for my ignorance but since we still don't have a prema bios, is there's any benefit to sager bios over clevo bios, or vice versa? Does sager ever update their bios?

 

Yes with important updates, contact the support of your reseller (our support if directly through us) and ask for a file if you are having issues, mostly that is what it is for though, addressing specific issues.

 

so i oc'd my panel to 90hz now how do i get dota2 to run at 90fps? i tried disabling vsync in the settings and its still running at 60hz. i also placed "fps_max" at 240 but still running at 60hz.. will try other games later any input/help would be greatly appreciated.

alright i got it to work by clicking "use my current monitors current resolution"

 

so after playing a game of rainbow six siege this are the temps of my 6700K cpu. awfully high! now, how do i go about this? i dont really want to do a repaste unless it is needed and dont want to play at fans 100% all the time.

 

if you dont want to repaste thermal grease nor want to turn your fan 100%, there isnt many choices.
And the some of the choices are even more difficult.

1. lower your cpu clock by xtu or TS. this will lower the voltage and power used by cpu and definitely will lower your temps.
2. lower your cpu voltage without changing clock. this might cause some bsod so you would need to do tests to find the min voltage that will run your clock without bsod.
3. delid your cpu. this will also lower your temp. but check your reseller to find what this will do to your warranty.

I am using p750dm with 6700k oced at 4.7. After playing rainbow "the division" for 2 hours my max temp is about 78~80c.
Ive delided and found the lowest and still stable voltage for 4.7. You would need some time to do this. GL

 

by lowering cpu clock you mean going lower than the 4.2ghz? also by how many degrees can i lower temps if i repaste? i might do it since mine came free with .6g of thermal paste in a small tube/syringe.

 

Yes lower than 4.2.
It is hard to guess how low you can get with repaste. If you already have a nice therml grease on, you wont get any lower but if you have bad grease then you will get better result by chaning it.

 

Beware, if you are lucky enough to have a g-sync enabled setup, you will probably no longer have g-sync enabled with 90hz. If I remember correctly, the upper limit of g-sync is 75. This isn't necessarily an issue if your FPS is 90, but if your FPS drops below 90 (which I think is probably inevitable), you will have to choose between screen tearing with V-Sync off, or judder and 45fps with V-Sync on (it'll be even worse if your FPS drops below 45). Maybe someone else can chime in a let me know if I'm wrong here.

Those temps are only borderline bad, but yes higher than average. Easy solution would be to undervolt. There is no disadvantage to undervolting as far as your functionality goes, your processor will work at the same speeds, but your temps should be about 5-10 degrees lower depending on your stability point. Try -150mv, and then if you get a hard reboot in the middle of gaming (or doing something else), try -140mv, etc.

 

Thanks for the input! Will definitely try it. I just refunded the r6s as its not my cup of tea. Just bought the new tombraider.

 

Hello lads! I am the recent happy owner of a Batman 2.0 by way of Mythlogic, and I must say this thing is an absolute beast! I am very happy with my purchase thus far but am encountering some early issues:

firstly, When my gpu is running and the laptop is unplugged I am getting some odd screen flickering to black.. never seen this before on any other laptop I've owned and don't know what would be the cause of it

secondly, sometimes when locking the screen (WIN 10) the laptop will be unresponsive....this doesn't happen all the time but I think it is a windows 10 problem. Thanks for your help guys!

 

When you day screen flickering to black do you just mean the screen blacks out for a split second? I have this issue and have become accustomed to it. I get this plugged in and on battery.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

 

Does the flicker happen when you are doing anything in particular?

 

No. Can be during gaming, browsing Web etc. It's the briefest of flickers. Like only an eight of a second for me. It's not regular.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

 

That's not normal. Try to give us more details -- how often does it flicker? Does the screen turn off or just go black? Etc. Try to figure out what its associated with. For instance, since you said it happens when your power is unplugged... Typically with default settings, when you switch to unplugged your windows power plan changes to "balanced". Leave it unplugged but change your power plan to high performance, see if the flicker goes away, then report back. Check your device manager for any yellow triangles or exclamation marks

 

alright so about after 2 hours of tombraider and 1 hour of dota2. max cpu temps at 76c. thats after a -130mv core voltage offset. i started at -140mv but it gave me a hang while playing and i had to press the power button but now at -130 everything seems fine. any ideas why it happend? also do i lose much performance by doing this?

 

The CPU temps seem kinda high for high for those games. I play a lot of DOTA2, and my CPU or GPU temps never cross 60c @ 4.5Ghz. I should however mention that i re-pasted my CPU with GCE.
What is your fan profile at?

But yeah the hang can delfinitely be because of not enough voltage. Not every processor is the same. Mine can easily do 4.2 @ -165mV, most do -140 to -150.So you gotta do some tests to figure out what works for you.

 

Each CPU is different people... Some can do a -100mV and some -150mV.. Main thing is to tweak around and find your sweet spot to maximise the performance of the CPU!

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

 

Btw. -150 mV may be worse than -120 mV if the first starts with a higher voltage than the second.

 

Nvidia releases 364.72 driver, and G-sync support on p750dm-g is still missing in this version.

 

Does anyone know if the p770dm gsync is affected? I haven't updated my 980m drivers for about 4 months since an update gave me blackscreen and I had to roll back. Can't remember what I'm on. Running prema vbios.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

 

364.72 Driver working fine here. 980M is happy with G-Sync and it's overclock.
If you found you were getting black screens after driver update make sure you have V2 of Prema VBIOS.

 

Rolled back to 362 as 364.72 does not show G-sync. 362 is the latest one l can use to enable G-sync on a P750DM-G.

 

364.72 disables G-Sync on mine as well with stock BIOS (970M).

I guess it's time to update to Prema Bios

EDIT: Okay. Running Prema vBios v2 now and STILL no G-Sync
So....that sucks. Back to 362.00 for me.

 

g-sync has nothing to do with vBIOS...it has to be in system BIOS and driver.

 

Confirmed 980M, stock Sager bios, stock vbios, driver 364.72, G-sync option is gone and FPS has gone from 60FPS in dota 2 to 120FPS. Does that indicate G-sync is now off? screen refresh rate is 60hz.

 

Yes. Default G-Sync behaviour caps the framerate at your refresh-rate (so 60hz).

I sent a bug report to Nvidia. Hopefully they chuck out a hotfix driver with added detection. This has happened before, I'm guessing whoever compiled the driver used an old BIOS detection list.

EDIT: On a site note. Thanks to @Prema again for the great vBIOS magic!
Pulled a nice little %age boost at a very conservative +135/+200 OC with no extra voltage.
http://www.3dmark.com/compare/fs/8034883/fs/7770394

 

I was about to do a repaste but then i saw that they overdid it imo. I forgot to take a pic or the copper sink. I just removed the excess paste and slapped it back in. Temps were still the same i really dont know what to do. Should i delid now or something?

 

Typical ODM pasting. Keep in mind, the heatsinks from Clevo come pre-applied with a dry thermal pad. Most builders who offer custom pasting have to clean off the pre-applied stuff then apply their own.
That being said, it looks like a lot and messy but it's the safest route. Too much is much better than too little.

I'd still do your own re-pasting to be sure as you may get a better seal with a bit less paste.

As far as de-lidding I think many have found that de-lidding the 6700K doesn't achieve a whole lot if you keep the heat spreader in any form (as it appears to be the limiting factor).

I'd be interested to see how effective it'd be to run without the heat spreader and use a modified heatsink or maybe even a basic copper shim directly onto the cpu instead. I'm not that keen doing it though as I don't actually put my 6700K under any real CPU stress.

EDIT: Apparently people are seeing 20C drop with a direct mounting kit (copper straight to core with no IHS).

 

Seems to be an issue with NVIDIA and the panels for the 15" machines only. Again.
Since this hasn't been resolved since 362.00, that's very poor on Nvidia's part and from my reading into it there's very little that can be done as a temporary hack until NVIDIA finally do get off themselves and fix it. I can't do any testing to find which part of the authentication is failing and even then I would be shoting in the dark.
They won't know unless you file a bug report! EMAIL THEM

Delidding seems like a good option. A friend may or may not have purchased a separate CPU and delidded. Since delidding their own processor would invalidate the machine warranty but besides being silicon lottery lucky the temperatures themselves have been phenomenal.

Even with the original 6700k heatspreader my friend experienced drops around 8c idle and closer to 15c under load keeping the IHS in place.
I'm sure my friend would be interested to know which direct mounting kit was used for gains that size!
Most I've seen would be tricky to apply in a laptop but I'm more accustomed to seeing them in a watercooling scenario where it's easy to gain access to the rear of the motherboard before joining the league of laptops.

 

so you suggest me removing the heat spreader? anything else you can suggest? i have to build up enough courage to do it and i might not be able to do it anytime soon rofl.

are my temps that bad? with -130mv max cpu temps at 78c after playing tombraider and dota. tbh i expected this laptop to be cooler as its a 17inch laptop also one of the reasons i went with a 770dm instead of a 750dm.

 

I'm not saying it's a good or bad idea as there's pros/cons to it. You asked though. There's serious issues that can happen with fully delidded CPUs. In particular, if you get the mounting wrong (ie shim too large) you can apply far too much pressure to the centre of the chip and bend the whole thing. The IHS has the added function of not only spreading heat, but spreading the mounting pressure to the outside of the chip. Similarly, if the shim is too small it won't contact properly and defeat the purpose. Doing this in a laptop is especially problematic because it often gets moved around and rotate in your bag etc.

If I were to do it (hypothetically), I'd be extremely careful and precise about it. In the case of a laptop, I'd opt to get an entire 2nd heatsink assembly and solder a copper shim on as well as solder an "edging" around where the core would be to spread some of the mounting load around. This needs to be sub-millimetre perfect though to make sure you get the pressure right.

That's fine really, perhaps a touch on the high side. But that could just be ambient temps. Just got out of summer in Oz here and gaming with -150mv undervolt would still nudge 85, even 90. But we're talking about 35-40 degree ambient. Take it into an air-conditioned office with ambient temp of ~22 degrees and it's fine.

 

Already have.

For anyone else you can submit bug reports here: https://nvidia-submit.custhelp.com/

 

Hello guys !

I want to update the bios of my clevo P751DM-G for one reason : sometimes my computer won't turn off or go into standby, the screen turns off and I can hear the fan that continues to be on. So i had to force it to turn off. Once, I didn't realize that the computer was still on and I put it away in my backpack. One hour later I open my bag and the computer was extremely hot I was very suprised that the computer do not turn off itself when it's too hot ...

Sometimes when the computer gets to the Sleep and I try to turn it on again the screen is black and I have to force to turn it off to use it again.

My bios version is 1.05.01.

So I have some questions :

- What is the good process to update the bios ? ( I heard that some people brick their computer by trying to flash the bios without updating the EC/KBC first)
- What is the EC/KBC ?
- Where can I find the EC/KBC ? ( I find one in palkeo's repo, but I'm not sure about it)
- When it is necessary to update the EC/KBC ? (I read in the forum that it's not always needed)
- Did there is a different bios for P750DM and P751DM ? In palkeo's repo the latest bios's version is 1.05.09 and it 's written that it's only for P750DM/-G/P770DM/-G and the only one bios that is compatible with my computer is the EC 1.05.03 for P7xxDM/-G and if I understand it's not the bios but the EC. (I read in the forum that the only one difference between P750DM and P751DM is the color of the aeration grid so why did there is a difference with the bios ? Or it's just a written mistake ?)

Thanks !

 

I would say your issue is more likely your Windows power saving settings rather than anything to do with BIOS.
Change your power settings so your laptop hibernates rather than sleeps when the lid is closed per settings seen below

Spoiler

(excuse the crappy screenshot)

A mouse movement is enough is wake a computer from sleep.

Now as for the BIOS and EC I'd strongly recommend you contact your reseller for a BIOS update if you feel the need to update. If you don't you'll likely loose your warranty, not to mention the pretty splash screen they'll have set for you.
There are different BIOS for the P750DM and P751DM, I don't have the answer as to why and without having either I'm not game enough to try and find out but I have heard they are electrically different and when it comes to BIOS warnings about compatibility it's always better to pay attention.
The EC version will be listed in BIOS, hold F2 while you boot. Typically they'd be updated together.

The best method for flashing the BIOS is the one that works frankly. There are AMI tools that will run within Windows and do a fine job and those that require DOS. Ultimately it comes down to how they are supplied from whenever you get them.
I'm aware XMG offer their BIOS updates with Windows flashing as an option.

It's a little hard to recommend without knowing which P7XXDM you have, maybe update your signature to show your specs.

 

Thanks for your fast reply. I'm triyng that

 

Sometimes the simplest approach is the easiest. I've tried to answer a few of your other questions too as I know I'd still be curious even if that was resolved.
Note as well that there are three different power settings, you'd need to change the behavior on all three for the desired effect.

 

Thanks for the link, bug report submitted would have found it eventually however kinda tired as have just finished work goto love back shift 0200 hrs meh!

 

Completely different note. Decided to start OC'ing the 970M since I've got Prema's V2 BIOS running now.

Here's a Firestrike comparison of current score (left) and when I first got it (right):
http://www.3dmark.com/compare/fs/8044328/fs/6606700

GPU Score: 9584 (25% increase!)
Physics Score: 12743
Boost clock: 1337.6mhz (dat frequency )
Memory clock 1502.3mhz
Temp: 70C (ambient ~23C)
VDDC: 1.0620V

What scares me is there's still a bunch more headroom in it. Top results in Firestrike are running 1500mhz+ which is insane considered the stock boost is around the 1000mhz mark.

 

Well, the lemon of a computer continues. Those who read my previous posts might remember it took over a month to see my expensive laptop booted for the first time after needing to ship it back. Now a couple months into use...some of the keyboard stopped working. The reasons pretty clear once I removed it... (see image)

Appears when they replaced the keyboard, it was damaged and the traces just finally rubbed off.

This has pretty much soured me from buying a Clevo again. The hope with a PC this expensive was that it would last for 5+ years. At this rate, I'll be lucky to get a year of service from it.

Question : Has anyone else noticed the area of the monitor bezel at its peak (near the webcam) is loose (pulled away from the frame a bit) s compared to the rest of the bezel? This tends to be what I hold when opening the screen and feels....weak there.

 

Ouch. To be deadly honest with you, I think this is a reseller problem.

The bezels and keyboard are assembled by the builder AFAIK. The bezel in particular needs extra care on the builders part to make sure everything lines up properly (the plastic is pretty bendy and delicate) and to avoid pressure based glow occurring. Similarly, that wear on the keyboard connector is probably from improper installation (basically imagine scraping the copper off when inserting).

You also said previously that you removed the keyboard yourself and then re-installed it despite the tray being bent. This could've been the cause of the damage. I'm not saying it's your fault, but you must consider the possibility.

 

Youre almost beating my 8600 but that's with some flickering from my mem oc though.

 

Old 970M bench on my M17x R4...

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/5808946

Just Cry !!

 

last time i checked 8214<8600 wont cry

 

GPU Score is 9619.. Cry now

 

9925>9619

 

I've got a higher score.. Didn't know you had a high score of 9900, was thinking was 9600 seeing the post I quoted...et me dig it out

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/3857967

Going to cry now? GPU score of 10096

 

Wish mine could hold that clock but it can't handle more than 75mV right now for some reason

 

What does it do after that? Just not gain any clocking headroom?

 

Misunderstanding there. I removed the "original" keyboard which had a metal tray bent so badly it did not sit right in the machine.

THIS keyboard is the replacement, installed by the vendor. Two strikes to the Clevo keyboard.

 

I know I may well come off as slightly fanboy-ish here but for me at least the Clevo keyboards have been some of the best I've ever used. The very fact they bend rather than snap is something which, admittedly tragically, is a sign of strength these days.

Someone used something that was apparently too sharp to push out the keyboard per the service manual and it punctured the keyboard to the point the toothpick could be seen pushing against one of the keys, any more pressure and that key would have popped right off. Okay they now have to resort to using the clips around the edges but even the back lighting on that key still works.

Coming from a Lenovo where the center would sponge in with the weight of a key press and there would be noticable flex using different areasof the keyboard simultaneously these are pretty solid. For me the magnets, screw, and clip attachment combination have been doing a good job holding it stable.

I'm sorry to hear yours hasn't been holding up so well but damage like that sounds more like a careless reseller. Either with installation or fitting a part damaged in someway.

Still though mechanical keyboards I've seen sprouting up on more laptops are certainly interesting. Too bad I can't see their being space for socketed components in one of those; that is until the 19" range appears.