*** Official Clevo P770ZM / Sager NP9772 and P770ZM-G / Sager NP9773 Owner's Lounge ***

Yeah it's something so ~10600 should be doable with 2133 ram and 4.7ghz oc bit before i do that i get a better PSU and some fujipoly first.

Gesendet von meinem Nexus 5

 

I got up to 12567 (GPU score) so you are only 600 or so points off of that

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/3687176

 

The ram and OC of the CPU will only help a bit. Once you clear 10300 every jump is much much harder to achieve. @Meaker I'm assuming that score was achieved after adding additional capacitors? I know you know a ton about this kind of stuff but am I right to assume something had to be altered to blow us all out of the water like that?

 

The graphics score was 12650 on the run i posted before so it probably comes down to silicon lottery ahead of hardware mods.

Edit: Or not, Meaker is running at slightly higher rates. Higher CPU frequency > CPU core count for graphics tests, I suppose?

Edit: Link

ASIC Quality 79.3% - +320/+430 w/ +112.5mW

 

I know I saw your score for 10770 but I don't remember your score for 12650. Do you mind sending a link so I can take a look at your clocks etc...

Edit. Also what is your ASIC score?

 

Bought GC Extreme today. Now, can't await the weekend.

 

It was MOSFETs and the issue is that it limits memory clocks by adding interference so mostly it's good cooling and a slight memory vmod to increase stability.

 

Was going to post a picture of the screen now that I've gotten the laptop. I must say, it's very impressive and the picture doesn't do it justice. There is hardly any screen bleeding, only very light bleeding in the top left corner of the laptop. Hardly visible even when in a dark room with full brightness. On the picture the screen bleeding looks worse than it is, also there is no orange hue in real life. I also do not notice any ghosting or lag even when running CoD4 with 500 fps. Overall, the screen is amazing.

Laptop itself pleases me, performance, design, weight etc is astounding and topnotch, although I have two minor issues:

- sometimes the spacebar and right shift button are a bit unresponsive. I hope this problem fixes itself over time, however I have notified mySN of the problem..
- The Clevo Control Center or Hotkey program crashes upon launch, when I try to launch it with fn+escape I get the "ControlCenter has stopped working message". Tried downloading the hotkey app from the clevo website, but they offer a damaged archive for the P770ZM...
As a result, I can't change the brightness of my computer as the buttons that manage that aren't working. Oddly enough the other hotkeys work fine.

Does anyone have a fix for this? Or does anyone know where to download a working Hotkey app version?

 

I just finished spending about 1.5 hours sanding the CPU IHS and heat sink. I started with 320 grit and worked my way up to 1500 grit (it was the highest grit my local Home Depot had) by the time I was done the heat sink just popped. It looked beautiful. Anyways the results were quite shocking. I ran my standard everyday clocks of 44,44,44,44 dynamic offset of -80 and cache of -151. Did a 10 minute CPU stress test in XTU to compare tempts to my previous spreadsheet. First run showed a decrease of max temps by 6 degrees! Max temp was 72 while my previous run was 78. I must of had a con cavity somewhere as it seems to be cooling much better now. Very impressed so far. I will run the entire matrix tomorrow and post full results before and after.

 

Just sent out my laptop for the RMA process. Hopefully it will be back next week!

While I'm waiting, I wanted to ask if anyone has been able to successfully install Linux on this laptop, specifically the P770ZM. I've tried Ubuntu, elementaryOS, and Antergos, all 3 using Live USBs, and have received the exact same error message when attempting to boot a Live USB:

"[3.074160] mmc0 Unknown Controller Version (3). You may experience problems."

I've tried using blacklist commands in the Grub boot options menu, using different LiveUSB creation methods, and obviously many different distros. I cannot get past the Live USB boot process. This error appears almost immediately after selecting a boot option, be it Try Before Installation or Install. The mmc0 (which I assume is the card reader) module prevents any boot from happening.

Any ideas?

 

awesome, cant wait to see your all your benchmark results after all mods you planned

 

You may be referring to AJC9988 as he has a laundry list of mods he is experimenting with. I do plan to follow the successful ones however outside of maybe some minor tweaking I am more than happy with my current results. I may try and squeak out a slightly higher fire strike score however I'm not sure I can catch the leader. I've gotten lucky with my CPU but my GPU is only slightly above average as far as OC ability.

Edit: I may try and hit the 5ghz mark today if I have time to play around. With the reduction in heat it just might be achievable.

Edit2: @Meaker this may make me sound like an idiot but what exactly do you mean when you say vmod. I am assuming you mean just increasing the voltage slider to increase the stability but I just wanted to make sure I'm not missing anything.

 

I´m doing some BIOS/vBIOS research in preparation for my new laptop.
For Premas vBios (980m) shouldn´t you disable the gpu in device manager before flashing? It´s not stated in the Readme (step 1: click 'ModMe.bat').

 

It's not stated but good practice! It is to prevent the driver from interfering with the flash. If further issues arise, you'll want to ddu in safe mode, disable display adapter in device manager, then flash. This is the safest way, but just disabling the adapter before the flash should work for the majority of people. I'd recommend if you are iffy on your comfort on flashing, DDU, disable, flash, install the driver.

Edit: by iffy, I mean if you are not comfortable troubleshooting or have no way to throw it in another machine to reflash if all hell breaks loose and it doesn't work on reboot. Also, verify the file download integrity BEFORE flashing!!! Ultra important!

 

Thanks. I´m kinda iffy since it will be my first vBIOS-flash. But the procedure is straight-forward and I happen to be a part of the most friendly and helpful community on the internet. I have no second machine though. I´ll probably just disable and flash without DDU, any reason to do (or not do) it in safe mode?

My plan is to first do some benchmarks and games to verify it´s working as intended. then flash BIOS and vBIOS, then tweak some with undervolt and whatnot, then enjoy it

And thanks for the headsup of verifying the file, didn´t think about that.

 

my laptop screen somehow turn darker when there's dark background program/game running. I turned off adaptive brightness but still the same. any idea?

edit: weird. re-installing 'Hotkey' driver fixed my dynamic contrast problem.

 

Is this the 17.3" LG IPS Screen? Can you take a screenshot of the model number in device manager?

 

You want to flash in Windows regular, not safe mode, with display adapter disabled. DDU is ran in safe mode and can be set to prevent Windows from auto searching for the device driver. Sorry it took so long, family matters...

 

From Larry at LPC-Digital http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/sager-np8278-s-vs-sager-np9772.769829/page-3#post-9982049 LG Display LP173WF4-SPD1

Edit: For Sager

 

Here you go.

 

Does hutsady@xotic still peruse these forums? Can you pm me please.

 

This might get his attention faster

@Hutsady@XoticPC

 

Well, I'm horrified now.

Stressed my memory @ 2400 12 14 14 35, and it was stable. ( The G.Skill that wasn't supposed to be overclockable, fyi)
Set 2400-12-13-13-33 in XTU and rebooted. Was greeted by a solid arcing noise and some electrical burning smell... Machine still booted to windows while i was 3s force holding the power to shutdown. The hunt for damage begins.

 

If you have been reading I posted a while back that for whatever reason two of the sticks were not ocable while the other 2 were. I got them replaced and have been running at 2200 ever since.

I failed to verify if they were from separate batches or not but given the number of websites that stated early on that they would not hold an OC stable I'm thinking the newer generation or whatever it's called actually OCs very well.

As far as your computer however that's very odd. Electrical burn is a very easily distinguished smell. Any idea what could have caused this? Maybe leaking of the CLU from insufficient pressure?

 

Is the hotkey application working for everybody?

It keeps crashing for me, even though I've installed multiple versions. Using Windows 8.1 Professional. Can't change the brightness because of this...

 

Now it's working! I think you've got the LG IPS display?

 

Yes I do. How did you fix it?

 

I just updated my bios to 1.03.09... Changelog says "2. Add NV N15P-Q1 VGA card name string support & LG LP173WF4 panel support."

 

Ahh, nice. I must have missed that. Reading about them on other forums, it looks like they're 1600Mhz cells that are binned by Samsung and binned again by G.Skill before going into this line. The variance makes sense. Have you tried 2400 12 14 14 35? It was the first speed I tested and might work for you also.

Haven't taken the heatsink off yet. I ordered more TIM and had it express shipped to arrive tomorrow. From what I can see, it looks like the arc was from one of the gpu memory chips to the heatsink (might be another location also, but it is definitely not normal coloring of the fujipoly in this spot.) Not on the side of the CLU, which is confusing. That was my first thought as well. The thermal paste coming is PK-3.

The fact that it kept booting into windows is good, but I haven't turned it on since. It still smells pretty bad- I think some of the fujipoly there melted when it arced and that's causing the prolonged smell.

Hope I didn't kill this amazing 980M... It's much better than I thought initially, I've since crushed my previous firestrike score. I'm second on the 3dmark site among all single gpu laptops and I think I can get 50-100+ higher and also break 13000 graphics score (12935 currently). Only behind @johnksss now, who set an amazing score that I can't touch without delid, probably never actually.

Edit: Definitely isolated to the graphics card. It was completely stock clocks when it happened, also. CLU looks flawless, hasn't moved a mm. Well, one of the E7 ER labeled chips blew out the side... Anyone happen to know what kind of devices they are? I'm guessing it's a fuse.

 

Hey guys, I own a P771ZM, I just posted in another thread about a problem with GTAV and the system in general, would be good if you guys could have a look and give me your opinion maybe, since you all are the mostly likely to have my same specs. This is the thread, thanks: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/gta-v-10-25-fps-with-4171-8192-video-memory-used.774700/

 

I put GTA V on mine yesterday. Give me 1-2 hours and if I can get mine to turn on again, I'll check this out for you.

 

I just wanted to follow-up from the troubles that I have been having with my P770ZM and getting it to run 1080P at 120hz.

I just upgraded to a 27" 2K at 80hz monitor that also supports 1080P at 120hz , a QNIX QX2710 is a "Korean" special I got 2nd part from newegg for $279. It shipped 2day international for free too. Long story short, do your homework on it before you buy, it needs a little modding TLC to be a truly great monitor. But after a disassembly and a few tweaks, it is a great Samsung 2K.

I found out that my issues with cables is the HDMI 2.0 compatibility of the GTX980M I needed a HDMI 2.0 capable cable to get it to work, once I got one of those it worked great. A $19 cable fixed it: Newegg Item=N82E16812117611

I also found out that 1080P at 120hz is roughly equivalent to 4K at 30hz in regards to bandwidth at about 18Gbps. HDMI has two lanes at 18gbps to get 4K at 60hz. For me and gaming I am not going to invest in 4k until they have 60hz standard.

 

I can confirm that updating the BIOS to 1.03.09 indeed fixes all problems with brightness and the ControlCenter.

Thanks man!

 

Finally! \o/
Have you got already?
http://www.samsung.com/global/busin...vents/press-releases/detail?newsId=14101#none

 

300,000 IOPS now that is worth spending some money on.

 

Half the power of the Intel ones but it still uses quite a bit.

 

Is it possible to boot from an nvme disk with the P7**ZM? After these disks fully supported?

 

I didn't try it yet, but if you have UEFI 2.4 you can tweak it[1] to do it even if it isn't automatically detected.

[1] http://uefi.blogspot.com/2013/09/uefi-24-review-part-7-nvme-device-paths.html

 

ok, thanks. So UEFI is needed? Then i'd get a problem with Win7, wouldn't I? Never tried UEFI, that's why I'm asking.

 

I'd advise using the latest windows when dealing with a new tech like that and yes installing in UEFI mode.

 

Ok, then i just wait for Win10. I used my 830 most of the time with S-ATA 1, so the minor improvement of some IOPS doesn't matter that much to me...

 

Does anyone know of a custom FlexiKey program or how to change the preset's it allows for the keyboard? (IE: flash, tempo, breathe; I find them boring and would like to make my own)

 

There was a custom piece of software written a while ago but I'm not sure how well it works with the a test models and if it has any extra keyboard lighting options.

 

The only issue I know about Windows 7 with UEFI is that Secure Boot must be disabled.

 

Check this before anything: https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/dn481258.aspx

Holy crap! I did it again (replied to myself)!!!

 

As above you are given the options to install windows 7 in UEFI mode though it does not support the features of secure boot.

 

I now have a NP9772-S on order though Xotic PC. I was debating a barebones option for awhile, but finally went with XoticPC since I had such a good experience with them with my last machine.

 

Congrats on the new computer! Very happy to have you back for next computer.

 

Anyone having speaker noise, high pitched ratting whenever speaker is making noise at volume above 40/100?

It's really weird, and don't know how to get rid of it.

 

As mentioned before, I think something is rattling inside. Either that or it is blown speaker already.