*** Official Clevo P770ZM / Sager NP9772 and P770ZM-G / Sager NP9773 Owner's Lounge ***

So, does NBR not like Batman? First, Junior's lounge was removed from most active thread and now XL's lounge is out too.

 

Joeypogs - noypi?

 

hoping their gonna do it (sager) but may take them a long while .....

 

Argh... my BenQ 120hz just died and I got a qnix 27" 2K monitor 2nd party from newegg. But I cant get the displayport to put out 2K. the screen just keeps trying to sync but with no success has anyone else seen this? I am trying to run it at 60hz before attempting 120hz.

Update: I tried a 4K rated 3' HDMI cable and was able to get 2K to work OR 1080p @ 120hz. Still no luck on getting it to work at all on the Display Port.

A 40' redmere HDMI also works at 2K!!!! Why a DP active adapter to 6' Dual link DVI cable or a 10' displayport does not work is driving me nuts.

 

Eh, bummer with the heat pipe issue, @ajc9988. Is it seriously impeding your heat exhaustion? I hope not. I was looking forward to your BCLK experiments.

 

I'm able to use it, just heat is now where it was without delid and lapping. So a wash. I'm going to ask thermacore proving on a prototype and see if there is a minimum number that must be fabbed for prototypes. Currently, a replacement heatsink is $88 from rjtech. If I can get a prototype with K core and better heat pipes at a reasonable premium, then I will. I'm going to sit down next week during free time and measure dimensions.

Meanwhile, that guide is coming soon!

 

Ordered the P770ZM from mySN.

Hopefully the screen bleeding will be acceptable. Seeing as there are no pictures of the laptop yet with the new IPS display I'll post some when I receive the laptop even though the screen is the same in the G751 and AW 17 R2.

 

To replicate your own, you might want to try these settings:
EUFI enabled
Fast Boot (not necessary but does not interfere with the other settings)
Internal PLL Overvoltage - available in XTU or in Advanced : Performance settings : CPU (first sub-folder)
Ring Ratio to 40 (for4790K)
FIVR Efficiency Enable - Disabled
Advanced : Sata : Aggressive LPM Support : Disabled
Advanced : Platform Misc Configuration : Native ASPM : Enabled
Advanced: ICC : Turn off Unused PCI/PCIe clocks : Enabled
Advanced: ICC : BCLK : Spread : 0

I believe these are the main settings and will allow you to modify the BCLK in XTU w/o rebooting for each setting (realtime mod of BCLK) and will allow for the spread to be 0 (so 100Mhz means 100Mhz). More to come plus explanation. (PS, may not function the same if you are using a legacy bios).

 

If you change base clock on the fly be aware the system time could go out of sync.

 

I played with those settings a bit via the Prema BIOS. I did not have much luck increasing the BCLK. With a 1% increase, I could boot to Windows, but I was then met with a blue screen.

As for the Prema BIOS setting for the UEFI, it was set for Windows 8+ and boot was disabled.

 

I forgot to mention, in PCIe & audio config : PCIe config : DMI link aspm : enabled

Other than that, bclk may be limited...

EDIT:
@WJamesLord - To the UEFI setting, did you install your OS in UEFI? and which OS are you currently using? There are specific requirements if you are using UEFI or BIOS (legacy)...

 

A new version of the Killer Networks driver suite is available at http://www.killernetworking.com/support/driver-downloads. This release took care of an annoying connect / disconnect issue I had with one particular router.

 

As of this morning, I am using UEFI with Windows 8.1. I found a nice guide on converting from legacy to UEFI boot record at http://social.technet.microsoft.com...erting-windows-bios-installation-to-uefi.aspx. However, I have not yet had an opportunity to retest the BCLK. I plan to play with the setting later today.

 

I'll PM you settings I got to 102 on

 

what about the boot time? Sager NP9772-S m.2 pci-e ssd boot time on this video is 41 sec @ 11:40 min in video !!!

 

Well, I have to RMA my beloved machine the left speaker is buzzing and I didn't notice it until a few days ago...I really hope XoticPC can get it back to me fast. I also hope they pay for shipping, because even though I'm outside of the 30-days-from-purchase range, much of the initial wait time was spent waiting for parts. Seems a bit unfair to me that I'd have to pay for shipping.

 

Well... the same is also valid for Xotic, since they aren't responsible, too.

Well, you just have to ask them. Some dealers have a big support budget priced into their wares, some don't.

 

Have you read the terms, are you sure it's 30 days from ordering? Either way talk to them about it

 

Xotic return for a refund policy is 30 days from the original shipping date (the day they sent the machine.) If you are sending it in for repairs, most of Sager's machines have a 1 year warranty which covers shipping both ways.

 

If it is hardware related then shipping costs are covered during the parts warranty of 1yr. The 30days is just the return/exchange period.

 

Thank you guys so much for the replies I'm sorry for sounding upset earlier. It's hard not to be frustrated about it.

 

You're very welcome, and no worries at all

 

Is there any hope of this model getting a 4k display? I know there aren't any 4k 17" panels out currently, but are there any connectors ever accept one? From what I've read you need a eDP connector rather than a LVDS

 

If you want 4k, then wait. You'd have to get a new motherboard or someone solder an eDP connector onto the board for you.

 

Is the NP9772 able to run 4k TV monitor ...... or three 4K tv monitors?

 

Rough settings to set SSC spread at 0 in Windows 8.1:
Native ASPM - Enabled
DMI Link ASPM Control - Enabled
Aggressive LPM (found in SATA Subsystems) - Disabled
PLL Overvoltage - enabled (technically optional but proven to help achieve higher multipliers)
FIVR efficiency - Disabled
Inside Windows Advanced Power Settings - PCIe --> Link State Power Management --> Off

Optional:
I've disabled C1 enhanced and C3 states in the CPU config. folder

Also, remember that changing the spread may cause a need for more voltage (even if slight). Do not assume the crash is instability off the bat. Sometimes, it can be solved.
Note - I'd recommend setting Windows Automatic Restart turned off to do BSOD troubleshooting if you decide to do BCLK OC.
BCLK changes can be performed in XTU without reboot (See Meaker's warning doing it without reboot can throw off system clock)

In Windows 10 Tech Preview (tested with Build 1049):
Do the above BUT you can leave the Native ASPM DISABLED. This should help with those struggling to get the SSC Spread to Zero stable.

WARNING: I've had one report with windows 8 that the user could not have Native ASPM enabled with his KILLER wifi card. If this is your case, you may have issues booting with the spread set to 0 or unable to boot at all.

If you have start not post and display does not power on (after reasonable amount of time), power down, turn on and IMMEDIATELY after pressing power hold F2 until display powers on, depress F2 and you will enter the BIOS.

More advice to come on the BIOS (including power saving settings which are almost exactly the opposite of above). If I missed a setting to make this work, let me know so I can add to the list or add troubleshooting info.

This has not been tested with SSDs, whether PCIe or SATA. This may affect your results.

 

Are there even solder pads on the motherboard, or will they have to spin a new rev to support an eDP connector?

 

It looks like there are solder pads (but I could be mistaken). Iknow the board is marked out for it. Currently, there are 4 types of boards: with or without TPM and with lvds or edp.

 

IMPORTANT:

guys I know whats causing the speaker buzzing, its the metal casing they put over them, if you play something with high pitched noises it happens the most, I found out you can stop the buzzing by placing your finger in the middle of the metal casing on the speaker while applying a VERY SMALL amount of pressure.

An idea perhaps, maybe a small bend/dent in the middle of the metal speaker cover to apply a small amount of pressure and prevent the buzzing. Have not done so yet because I can't bear to even think about harming this thing

 

i'm really happy so far how my P771ZM works out. On the weekend i ditched AS5 as thermal paste and applied Gelid Extreme and the temps are much more better, at least on CPU side. With AS5 i used 4x4Ghz only due to temps while playing, they were about 90-95 °C when using Games wich take it's toll. Now i'm at 4x4.2Ghz with -25mV CPU UV [ i have a completely ****ty CPU can't even get -5mV on Cache without getting MEMORY_MANAGEMENT BSOD (0x1a) and only -25mV seems stable, -30mV even at 4Ghz only gets me a PFN_LIST_CORRUPT (0x4e) BSOD ] and sitting now at average 80 °C. GPU is about the 74 °C area without OC.

Yesterday i switched my Glossy Panel again wich did 101hz, with a matte one Chi Mei and get a stable 115hz out of it, so far without any issues (no green dots lines etc).

So yeah, like i said some posts before i have to get a 330w Power Supply before i can do some serious benching, but for now i'm a happy camper.

 

Since you are limited to such low clocks due to the small amount of undervolt and heat You may experiment with what your GPU can over clock to. If it is an avg GPU that handles an average OC then you may not fully saturate the 230W power supply. It may be worth exploring since you may have no need for the 330W

 

Both of those error codes point to bad memory sodimm. Run memtest!!! Once you track down the culprit, get it out (by RMA or you do it and RMA the sodimm). Then you should receive better results. Is your RAM currently OC'ed? If so, go to stock until you get the CPU where you want it, then OC the RAM again.

 

Farthest i could get was 10141 Firestrike Points, but i will relook into it, back then i had the CPU @ 4.6Ghz and GPU at the average ~1380Mhz, but when Overvolting the GPU a bit more to get ~1420 i got a complete shutdown of the Notebook, like you pulled the power, retried and same, tried the ~1380 again and it worked, so i just guessed it would be something power related, like i said my CPU is a much unsatisfying for me but for everyday working/gaming 4.2Ghz is more than plenty enough for me. (don't know the exact GPU Core values anymore to be completely honest, cause the Firstrike Link actually uses the values without boost in mind)

i actually RMAed my RAM once and no they aren't oced yet, i get these BSoDs only when UV too much Cache or CPU. So far with only -25mV CPU i am completely stable, my first pair gave me some other BSODs but i exchanged it before my LAN Party was.

 

The loud tone resonance buzzing always caused by something *hitting* against something (e.g. two separate bits of plastic in contact - when they vibrate due to resonance, this causes buzz).
You just need to find exact place where this point of contact is - then put some padding here (e.g. 1 mm foam tape), this will deaden the buzz effectively.

 

@Scerate - That doesn't mean you don't have bad ram. Run memtest! They also may have switched out the wrong stick and left in the faulty stick (saying they didn't replace them as a pair).

 

@Scerate the shut down does not necessarily mean you max out the power. When I was working on my OC that would occur on my system as well and I'm using the 330W brick.

 

sometimes i hate you, right now i'm testing again what could cause the black screen, i just had my GPU @ 1.4Ghz and stock memory at +87.5mV and boom same, back then i wasn't in the mood to double check but now, maybe i can get some ~10600 out of it even without my ultra CPU

will do maybe today after work, do have a Easy2Boot Stick with Memtest on it, any version works?

 

One thing that could be causing the shut down is the CPU. With the added heat coming from the GPU it may be causing instability with the CpU. Also just a reminder once you crash the Video driver make sure you restart the system as it will carry further instabilities until you do.

 

http://www.memtest86.com/
http://www.memtest.org/
What you have should be fine, but here are links to Memtest and Memtest+ if you want them.

 

yeah just tried again 1.4ghz with +112.5mV still black screen i think the gpu has it's limit reached, but i will try squeezing

edit: tried lowering to +87.5mV and the test runs longer but still after a while black screen, i guess it's the VRMs overheating? Time for some fujipoly then.

 

The voltage required for the 980M starts really jumping at 1.4ghz I think you need to go to 1.175V ish to be stable.

 

must be something like this, about 1380 passes at least Firestrike once with +50mV, it's funny black screen then the 3x LEDs Light up ( Caps,Numlock,Scroll ) and it turns itself off, hmpf 1.4 would have looked nice, but 1250 runs at stock voltage which is enough for me at the moment. But still it drives me so mad if i want to get something but can't and i don't know the exact cause.

 

Try running it again with the voltage set one to two clicks from the max. Before the fujipoly pads mine did not want to run with that high voltage but after it handles it no problem. If it still crashes with that voltage get some pads and try again

 

Yep you just have to tweak it and you should be able to produce a voltage/frequency curve.

 

will do, but now i'm doing some memtest first do just be safe my memory isn't holding my CPU UVing back

 

Easy way to do that is notch your memory down a setting (either in speed or timings) and see if it impacts your testing.

 

okay i did only a 1 hr memtest test without errors (i know i should leave it longer but for now), cause i was in the mood to max my rig more, 4.6ghz with 1396/2940 like before, was stable then i tried 4.7ghz on the cpu, and yeah no bsod and whatsoever but black screen, restarted yada yada, then i noticed that my Batman runs on battery, looked on power supply and light was out and had to take the power connector from it for 5 secs, looks like i maxed that brick for real now , but yeah i think 10150 firestrike is my limit i guess, gpu don't like too much voltage, cpu eats to much power, but still 10150 is a tremendous amount if i think my desktop rig gets about 11450 points.

edit: Ok guys i squeezed and got myself a firestrike without the damn demo and got to almost 10300, yey

 

Very nice

 

Should I get the IC Diamond?

 

The main ey spent for ic diamond is better spent buying 2--4 tubes of gelid extreme and pasting yourself. Get a lot more repastes and the difference between is small, but the advantages outweigh the disadvantages. Plus you get to see the inside of your laptop right off the bat.