*** Official Clevo P870DM/Sager NP9870-G Owner's Lounge - Phoenix has arisen! ***

i had to drop my mouse dpi really low to get exact dpi using that color picker haha. it wasn't fun but i figured this is the best way to check. mine dont trend white at all, just really dim. aight i guess ill need to find xoticpc's contact info then

 

Hi everyone, I don't know if it's OK to ask for support here, if not please give me the thread link.

I need support regarding to my SkyX9E, hope that someone can advise me what to do.
I was installing windows 10 and the installation process didn't recognize my Samsung nvme raid0, so I started switching between RAID and AHCI ... UEFI, CSM tried everything until I found that manually giving the installation the Intel RAID driver solved the problem,
so I installed the windows, nvidia drivers, Intel chipset drivers, everything seems very normal, suddenly the laptop hang, and I shut it down by force, when I tried to turn it on there is nothing on the screen, I tried to clear the bios but nothing happen... "nothing on the screen" but I feel the reset process is happening on the background coz when I press Enter 3 or 4 times it shutdown and restart like it should be in the normal case, but "nothing on the screen" only dark black color, I got some light and focused on the screen to see if there is something but nothing as well, even no sounds or beebs, only some times I hear some "tick" sound from the speakers, and sometimes the number Lk is blinking and the CPU fan start spinning when the CPU get hot.

Sadly I have a non working laptop now after only 2 weeks from replacing my 2 980m's cards, I feel so bad really, all my work on that drives hope that you can find a solution to help me fix it, or I have to buy any laptop can install those drives in it.

I did install windows in different m.2 drives in the same laptop without any problems, and the OC was disabled when this problem happen the laptop was running on the default Prema BIOS settings.

I need support and advise, all scenarios possible and I will follow, I have the Prema BIOS files but I don't know how to use it in this case, or maybe someone can send me any other files to use.

Thanks for @Prema he tried to help, but he was travelling has limited access to the internet, and he advised me to contact @Mr. Fox and I can't coz PM not working with him.
I hope that @Eurocom Support can help as well.

Thank you in advance.

 

mine detected fine. did you remove all drives so that the nvme drive is the only drive in the PC?

 

I already removed all drivers. I can't even get to the BIOS only black screen.

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i mean did you remove the other M.2 and 2.5" drives? make sure you got the nvme driver on the same USB stick as win 10.

 

Yes after the problem happened I removed all drives including the 2 X m.2 ssd. and even I removed one gpu and tried switching between the 2 gpu's... nothing at all only black screen.

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why do you need a RAID0 config?

 

Have you done the EC reset procedure? Remove battery + CMOS battery, press power button 30sec, leave 10mins to be safe. Reconnect everything, let it boot 1st time and will shut itself off, on the 2nd Prema splash screen enter BIOS and load defaults, save and exit.

 

Need it for more speed. It was working just fine before reinstalling the windows.

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Yes I did that. Still the same black screen and can't get to the bios.

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@Prema said that maybe the W10 corrupted the screen firmware. I don't know what is that mean.

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I saw some owners talking about F+B/D/F but I didn't find a clear trusted thread to follow and not sure if it's related to my problem.

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@bennyg already suggested the steps

Edit: Have you tried using an external screen?

 

I'll do it again with the same as you advised and update you with the result.

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Yes and the same ... no signal going to it.

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I followed the instructions for reset process but I have the same result a black screen even no error sounds or anything except the Num Lk blinks one time.
Edit: and light for power button and keyboard

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You don't use RAID0 for speed, only combining storage capacity. NVME is already fast so there's no point.

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I don't know that, I really need only speed I don't care about the size. If I fixed the laptop I'll not build the RAID0 again.
Edit: I thought the RAID0 will give the nvme ssd more speed like it dose for normal ssd's

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Now something new happened, that I can click Num Lk and Caps lock Scr Lk and it respond on and off but still black screen is there. I'll try to attach a HD with Windows and external monitor.

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HD detected and and blinking it seems that the OS is booting, I still have the black screen on the laptop

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Maybe ask @t456 The master of fixing Bricked screens.

 

Yes it seems that the screen is the problem. But I swear I didn't do anything even near the screen I just installing Windows and what happened shocked me.

Can you please connect me with him I have limited access with my phone.

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He is already tagged in here If he is on the forum he will granted see it

Edit: @Dr. AMK I have sent a pm

 

After I feel the OS already full booted I connected the laptop to external tv and the same black screen?!
Edit: I think the gpu's are not sending signal for both internal and external.
Now I'm sure the windows is running perfectly and hearing sounds like some updates or events are happening seems like normal, that's mean I don't have any problems with CPU GPU'S RAM MB. Very strange that installing windows can do something like that with high end machine like mine.

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Thank you, is there is anything I can do, I feel better now than before. At least I have a working hardware except the screen. I can't see anything with internal and external monitors but still better than a dead machine.

Thanks for all members trying to help me and thanks in advance for those will help me later.

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You've already pretty much ruled out the gpu (both failing at the same time is unlikely).

Presumably the screen is the LP173WF4 SPD1, right? This is an eDP panel and there may only have been one or two that were bricked. It was probably the different signal interface that was protecting these, but not all eDPs actually use the new method, so some may still be vulnerable. Those that still use the LVDS configuration have pin #24 and #25 active for that (on 30-pin panels, anyway). The SPD1 is like that and these pins also control Vcom, which is pretty odd; each panel is different once it leaves the assembly line and the backlight has only a small voltage window where it will not flicker noticeably. This vcom value is automatically set at the factory and is normally left alone after that. It used to be set with a small trimpot, but with modern panels it is all digital.

Err ... too much information? Nevermind, shine on the screen with a flash light and if there's no faint image at all then we can rule out the backlight itself. To fix edid and/or vcom bricking (a wrong vcom value often means no image at all) you'd have to hot-swap with a working panel. Do you have some systems you can borrow the panel from? This 30-pin eDP interface is common, so if the donor system is fairly recent then there's a good chance its screen will be compatible. Don't mind the physical size or a different resolution; lower is fine and a higher resolution screen will not work in a usable manner (since it'd need a different cable), but it would still boot ok, allowing the hot-swap with the bricked panel.

Hmm ... you could also try disconnecting the lcd cable and booting with only an external screen attached and then hot-plug the cable after it has successfully booted. When dis- and reconnecting the lcd cable on a live system (or one that still has the battery attached) make dead certain to move it parallel to the connector, so not one side first, as that risks shorting some of the pins.

 

@Dr. AMK
Try a full CMOS battery reset with all RAM modules out. Then boot without them. Wait and hopefully it will come back. Then if it does power down and put your RAM modules in.
I had something similar happen to me in my DM3 (different unknown cause but same symptoms). Hopefully this will work for you too. Good luck.

 

This is really serious scary stuff I'll try all of that carefully, if you please provide me with some pictures or a link that I can see how to do it with the right way.
And please explain to me what's wrong I did to have this strange problem?

Edit: I was try to understand what you are saying and forgot to say Thank you.. so Thank you and please accept my apologies.
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Thanks for your insight, this is more easier, I'll do that 1st and see what will happen. if still the same problem I'll start with that serious scary steps .

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Unfortunately still the same problem black screen but the laptop responding to Num Lk and Caps Lock.etc
so I'll start the hard steps, if someone can tell me where I can find the screen cable? or how to do the screen assembly.
thanks

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BTW, nothing at all on the screen when I'm focusing a flashlight to it.
so I'll start doing the cable thing, but need little help ... where is that cable should be?
Do I need to assemble the whole laptop or just a part of it?

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I found this video from Eurocom it looks like @Mr. Fox voice. is this what I need to do?




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Please no one laugh: the video tells that only 2 screws and that's it, just pull out the palm rest... but it didn't pull out not even close.... then I discovered that this video for X9 and mine is X9E it seems different model design or maybe I have to remove more screws from the bottom side

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I found part one, I was watching part 2
Hope that solution will work after all.



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Well ... the 'two screws' is pretty much correct for your project. Think the video shows a complete swap, including the cable, but you don't actually need to do anything of that sort.

At the bottom of the bezel, on either side of the middle section are two square, rubber thingies. Remove those and the two screws underneath. After this the bezel can be unclipped from the display lid. Since the connector is on the back of the panel it is better to have good access to it; remove the four front-facing screws in the corners of the lcd and lift out the lcd from the lid, placing it face-down on a towel or something (only touch the sides). Once done you have access to the lcd cable and can disconnect it from the lcd. That is all the disassembly you need.

Now, out of precaution pen down the part numbers on the lcd and we can find that temporary donor screen you'll need. Assuming you already had the screen you'd hook it up to the cable when the system is powered down and the battery removed. The old lcd can be set aside and the donor screen placed face-down on top of the keyboard with some cloth in-between. Once booted you can disconnect the donor lcd and reconnect the cable to the potentially bricked panel. If it is actually running fine at this stage then it is indeed edid or vcom bricking and you can fix it. Ah, forgot to mention; that bit should done from within Linux. Reason is that there's no free Windows-based tool that will do the job. If you haven't got an install already, then here's a live image + tools you can run from a USB stick, it also has the instructions you need and a bunch of edids, including two for the SPD1 (a gsync and a non-gsync version). These tools will also work for vcom, but haven't written anything for that since that is a bit different and there hasn't been a situation where edid flashing wasn't sufficient to revive a panel.

 

I just finished the whole assembly process. I don't have any spare screens, so I'll connect to an external TV by HDMI after reconnecting the gpu's and all heat sinks.

If any one wants to give me any advice, please this is the right time.

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Can I use a TV instead? very difficult to find any spare parts in our market..?

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Have you seen these topics before?
( http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...illing-alienware-and-clevo-lcd-panels.779449/)
( http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-1-and-especially-10-bricking-systems.781467/)
Not sure if it is related since they are LVDS or 120Hz EDP.
I had my LG 17 inches screen (LVDS) bricked in my previous Dell workstation about a year ago, after I installed EVGA Precision X.
I could output to external monitor since the iGPU was on.
You can see if you could light up a TV or monitor.
At the end I just got one from ebay and replaced it.
For the LP173WF4-SPF1, ebay has it too.
( http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...P173WF4-SPF1.TRS0&_nkw=LP173WF4-SPF1&_sacat=0)

 

iGPU is disconnected in models with LGA i7.

 

Unfortunately even after discounting the screen cables, I still have the same problem, no signal going to the TV through the HDMI or mDP. I can see the hard drive booting the windows and even I entered the win password to login.
I'm really upset and confused, since I got this laptop 5 or 6 months ago., I didn't use it for almost 2~3 weeks and the rest of time I'm fixing problems, started with 2 GPU's 980m failure which cost me $600 and tooks more than 7 weeks to arrive, then after 2 weeks I have this strange problem which happened without any reasonable reasons, I was only installing Windows.
Is this only my luck, or this Clevo model has issues or maybe only my laptop in particular I don't know what to say.
If I decide to buy a new screen how can I be sure that's will solve the problem. how much should I invest in this machine to make it work?

I will stay get and do all your kind advices if still there are some available.

Thanks for all members trying to help.

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Hope everything works out for you. 980m has been a failure for many. Not unknown, just ask @Mr. Fox. For this Clevo and the older I have... Work well for me and without surprises. You have most likely been unlucky this time brother. Even the best can fail.

 

Repeat that process, but now re-connect the cable after you've booted and logged in. If it is just edid-corruption then it should show an image at this point (remember; insert cable parallel, not askew). Vcom would be more difficult, as that'd need a working panel for the hot-swap.

Also pen down the panel nr. from the sticker on the back. It will make it easier to find a good, cheap replacement if that turns out to be necessary.

 

Thank you for your kindness, I regret that I sold my P570WM it was more than great machine.

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Edit: Many thanks for your insights I really appreciate, I'll do this and give it another try.

Tornado's DTR will be my next target and I will be watching it closely.

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I did what you said with all difficulties related to how to turn on the laptop with one card without the palm rest, I removed the power button board so I can turn on the laptop without the palm rest, the other challenge how to keep one gpu attached to it's socket without the palm rest (I'll not tell how I did it ) and of course the battery how to hold it in place without screws.
But any way I did attached the screen 30pin cable straight as per your instructions after 5 min practice before the process .

Unfortunately the same result, only black screen.

So please let me know if I can do anything else no matter if it's difficult. if nothing I'll appreciate if you tell me if changing the screen will solve the problem? and where to buy? I'm thinking to get a 4k one if that possible.

Regards.

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How can this problem be happening when the screen is not connected if it's something to do with the panel? What is being saved/overwritten/corrupted on the mainboard or GPU that stops an external monitor working too?

Did the chipset package maybe involve a ME firmware update or something that's gone bad?

 

I didn't do anything except installing Windows and trying to get my RAID0 Nvme drives seen to the installation process
this laptop I never flash any EC or Bois/vBios, and after replacing the gpu's I never even OC, the OC option in the Prema Bios was disabled.
EDIT: before installing windows the laptop was working more than fine and I was very happy with it, not only happy, very happy. No single small issue.

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As I've said before; you don't have to dismantle it to this extreme level. Assemble it all with one card, its heatsink, top cover, keyboard and everything else. Only need to remove the two screws holding the bezel and the four screws keeping the screen attached to the lid:

Spoiler: Clevo P870DM(-G) - display cable

You can have a 4k, if you like, but this also needs a different cable (40-pin, 4-lane); part nr. '6-43-P8701-020-L'. Inquire with your reseller as to the availability and cost. Of course, swapping the cable does require the extensive disassembly process, so at least you now have the practice.

 

Since the laptop are working up to that I login to Windows, are you sure that nothing wrong with the BIOS or the MB ? I just want to do all scenarios possible before purchasing a new screen.
Some members are talking about F+B/F/D or something related to reflash the bios, is this something related to my problem? coz the issue happened when I am switching between ufi and csm legacy support.






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Yes, that is very much a possibility. Make sure to do a full reflash to rule that out, preferably with a stock bios, if you haven't already. You did try TBoneSan's recommendation to do a cmos reset, right?

And with '' the laptop are working up to that I login to Windows' do you mean that you also have an image during boot? If so then the edid, vcom and the panel itself are fine; these all have to be functional to get an image in the bios menu, same as in the OS itself.