*** Official Clevo P870DM/Sager NP9870-G Owner's Lounge - Phoenix has arisen! ***

yeah, i gave it a good clean.

 

Is there any way to measure GPU MOSFET/VRAM chip temperatures?

I suspect something on my cards is overheating when power draw is up & over 125W as I still get black screen reboot after 5 mins even with fresh thermal pads and great contact with the heatsink. Would like to narrow down the problem.

I know Khenglish over on TI was dirty about the 980M due to missing power phases is what I'm experiencing just because the 3 phases design is overworked at these power levels?

 

As far as i know - not with software.
I have only idea of external device and test it with open chassy.


By the way, today or tomorrow I'm going to order new thermal paste. Currently I have ICD7... but I will use ICD7 again probably (warped heatsink -> high chance and P870DM 980M heatsink contact is pathetic by design).

I'm thinking also of:
1) Buying radiator to paste them over VRM/Mosfet section (there is no god damn heatpipe there! Most overheating part of GPU...)
http://s5.ifotos.pl/img/ddddpng_aeaqppe.png (didn't calculated size and needed amount of radiators, crappy-fast-made-paint-pro-graphical-visualization...).

2) Replacing most of thermal pads after all... if I can. 8w Grizzly Pads will be probably much better... If this can help by even 1*c for some GPU parts... GPU will be quite happy and less tortured.
If there a list of size of each thermal pad for 980M P870DM heatsink? As far as I know mosfet pad has 4mm which is insane... I'm not going to buy so high pad anywhere...

Memory Pads : 2mm thickness, about 5,5-6cm long x 2cm /
So x1 12x2x0.2cm Grizzly Pad 8 to cover it.
What with rest thickness?
Mosfet = crappy 4mm...

 

Original post in T|I: https://www.techinferno.com/index.php?/forums/topic/11137-p870dm-g-980dt-heatsink-mod-for-msi-1070/
The above statement that circled in red posted by user "thegh0sts", as he stated that: "EDIT 3: I learned from @j95 and @Prema that the vbios mod used by coolane was stolen from Prema so this thread is specifically for the modding of the heatsink itself."

The statement sounds awfully like "I(coolane) stole Prema's vbios OR I am using a vbios that was a stolen property from Prema". This is not true. I talked with @Prema today, and he can also confirm this is not true, if he sees this.

The vbios that I am using for my 1070 right now, Yes, it's from a guy that has history of betraying Prema in the past. But this does not necessary mean the guy is still stealing code around, especially from Prema. The vbios the guy posted is a freeware (within my knowledge it's not stolen from Prema) that can be downloaded by any one on the internet.

I was just going to keep this by myself of not exposing it in any way of how I got the vbios. But I was being too "friendly" of sharing how to mod the heatsink and answering how to gain access to the vbios. I knew the vbios was sensitive because of the person who made it. So the most I could say was asking him to google it by himself. As return, I got accused of stealing a product from Prema or using a stolen product. I feel disappointed and frustrated.

I tried to PM user "thegh0sts" in T|S to explain it to him, he read my message but did not reply me or take any action of fixing the above statement. So I decided it to post it here. Hopefully this can clear it out.

Maybe I am overreacted, but I am also a programmer that listened code of academy honesty every day back in school, I just can't accept an incorrect accusation like this. I don't know enough people here or there to wash my dirt off. Just may god guide the truth.

BTW: I do not recommend anyone to use the vbios that I am using, for respect of Prema. I went ahead of using it it's my problem, I admitted that. One of the reasons is January is a very busy month for Prema, I didn't bother to bug him of making myself one. And I can't accept the 115W TDP while I have 660W adapter.

Edited: It was misinterpretation, I overreacted. We are good now.

 

Here's what's left of a 10x10cm square of 2mm thermal pad from doing my 980Ms



The memory chip strips are about 15mmx65mm, I reckon the rest could be done from offcuts of 20mm wide strips. The MOSFETs at the back of the card do NOT need a huge long strip of 4mm like stock most of it's not even in contact with anything.

I figured what I reckon was my blackscreen issue, one of the corners of the heatsink had a bigger gap and the pad was not contacting the chip when the GPU board was screwed down. Was ok when I pressed them together out of th laptop though. Haven't stressed it fullon yet but seems fine.

 

@Coolane been busy. will update

believe you me i never even thought for a second that you stole @Prema's (v)bios code....never crossed my mind at all. Even Prema explained your situation to me so you have nothing to worry about.

your help on the heatsink mod is very much appreciated and that has not changed.

 

Thanks mate!
So basically I need only 2mm height pads? And I can stock them (even with paste if needed) at mosfet position (I will keep 4mm stock pad in case of not working property)?
Hmmm my local dealer has 10cmx10cmx2mm Grizzly Minus Pad 8 in stock. Would be awesome and much more cheaper than buying few pads of different height&size.

 

cooling problems?

joke answer: get a 1070 LOL

real answer: hopefully better thermal pads will work.

 

I was thinking about 1070, but in Poland noone sells MSI GPU separately, and I'm not going to pay overpriced price from US. In Poland 1070 price is ~~700usd.
I will wait ~~year and buy it from some MSI barebone. Still upgrade and cheaper

 

yeah i know what you mean. $1200CAD is still pricey from Montreal to Sydney though the performance increase is worth it from a 980M to a 1070.

 

question for yall

will the updated flexikey/control center work with our laptop or no? like the one for the newer model because that is version 5.0001.0.81 and the one for ours is 5.0000.0.32

 

.50 is most recent for DM I think? That's what I have and it's ... the least worst option. Have a look at the driver thread that Phoenix maintains - he may have a brief break from doing that until he returns from his BGAturdland holiday with his new MSI ;p

I tried .90 from the DM3 and it didn't have the Overclock profile and otherwise wasn't any more functional so went back to .50

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/clevo-p870dm-drivers-mirror.786094/
7) Control Center AP v5.0001.0.50 (AKA Hotkey Driver)

 

Ty guys! should i uninstall the old one first or does it update itself?

 

Uninstall the old one first. Reboot and install the new version.

 

I just returned from work and I want to order pads. So basically I have to order only 2mm height ones? I don't need any 1mm etc?

 

Which ones do you want to replace?

 

All would be best. But my prio is:
1) Mosfet/VRM (2mm x2 stacked)
2) RAM

 

I tend to mate the card to the heatsink and do it manually by eye as to the best thickness.

 

huh okay so when i checked my version of control center, it's different. its 5.0001.0.57 so the one linked here ( x.50 is older).

 

anyone know what the pin layout is for the GPU power cable? curious if i could use it to power a small fan or something LOL

 

Installed the fourth fan in P870DM1.
Using the rear USB port to power it without the need of internal power, can be manually turned on or off anytime.
This small 5v fan has 4,500 rpm and can output air with 8.2 m3/hr(approx. 5 CFM).


With the bottom cover on:

 

Nice, did you notice any difference in temps?

 

Yes, it dropped my idle temp like 2 to 3 C. One of the cores that is closer to the fan benefited more from it.
This reduced the frequency that the system CPU fan bursts to high speed, since I am running my 6700K with 1.45V and c states off for all days.
I haven't tested the difference under max load yet, I might update later.

 

1.45v is somewhat over the voltage the system starts throttling at. I'm sure the actual voltage is much lower.

 

It ranged between 1.44 and 1.45V, under load in RealBench is like 1.33V. BIOS input voltage is 1.282V.
The idle voltage is high because C states were off. It doesn't throttle in RealBench or games. It does throttle a little bit under light load(1~3%) in some special conditions.

 

Yeah that would be the Skylake in a laptop vdroop thing. The actual Cinebench load voltage I have seen my 6700k utilize is 1.365-1.385V @ 4.8Ghz.
However if I leave it idleing at that clock, it will hover around 1.43xxV . Total BS lol.

 

Nice mod
Idle temperatures are not the most important(If importent use C states), but it would have been nice to see max temp with this mod in for example Cinebench R11.5 with @4.7 or 4.8GHz

 

Yup. I might play with PLL offset later to see if it can stop the idle voltage climbing steeply when max load/BIOS input voltage increased.
See what Asus did to their 6820HK by default... 1.455V for 4.3GHz... lol

 

You took the words out of my mouth
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...rom-hidevolution.800581/page-42#post-10450413

 

Jebus Christ.

 

Thanks.
Just did two quick runs of the benchmark in Asus RealBench 2.43.
Environment temp: ~70F
No external laptop cooler/AC blowing
Max fan is on
First run without mod fan turned on:

Waited 5 minutes idle with max fan and modded fan on:
Second run:

So it's safe to say that the improvement is about 1 ~ 2 C.
If there is laptop cooler under the bottom and AC, I will expect a slightly better result.

 

Is that FAN pulling or pushing air?
If it's pushing it out you may get better results when you flip it to pull it in instead.
As that way it doesn't have to work against its big brothers.

 

It's pulling air from the bottom inside the chassis.
Good idea, I am going to try it out next time when I open the case, and compare with the result.

 

you have 2 GPU power ports you can use. they're hidden underneath the heatsink between the fans.

 

They are 19.5v...

 

oh, i guess that's too much for a fan? would you need a converter or something?

 

19.5v would certainly be a bit much even for a 12v fan.

 

Maybe use a resistor from (20 - 12). Even (20 - 15) would work

 

You could dropper resistor it yes, though it could dissipate a fair amount of heat.

 

Hence I said 20 - 15 could be the choice too. Less heat and 12v fan would still work ok Never seen a failed fan with +-15V. Of course it depends on the quality

 

It will be driving it at a pretty high RPM at that point. Depends on the fan you choose.

 

Or use the existing fan cables as a base - could use a piggyback/splitter cable like this one http://alienware-forum.de/index.php/Attachment/2033-1-6-JPG/

Would have the option of either controlling it with the CPU / GPU fan as well using the same PWM signal, or not and just run it 100% (or add in its own inline control .... too many possibilities)

 

there's nothing that needs a fan anyway. also, how much voltage can LED strips handle?

 

What about some airflow for passive heatsinks on VRMs that your custom modded heatsink doesn't cover...?

 

i have no idea how much clearance there is between the case and the heatsink.

EDIT: I wonder if this will do

https://www.jaycar.com.au/30mm-thin-12vdc-2-wire-fan/p/YX2501

 

7mm Will easily fit on top of cpu heatsink. Not much clearance over the Gpu heatsink.

 

Ok, I received IC D7 and Grizzly Minus Pad 8.
Doing last temp tests before replacing and fixing cooling.

Currently:
Auto: 83*c
Overclock: 78*c
Room temp: 21.5*c
Tested in Witcher 3, 4K Ultra settings.

I hope new and better fitted manually pads will help reducing gap between GPU and heatsink.

EDIT: Ok. I've finished. Thermal pads are on it's place - seems legit. There is never too much conductivity.

New results:

Auto: 81*c (-600rpm compared to last result, so it's much more quiet).
Overclock: 69*c
Room Temp 21.0
Tested in Witcher 3, 4K Ultra settings + aftertest in World of Warships (4K, Ultra settings).

 

Hey guys, I'm having a keyboard color issue. Can you guys check what your colors look like? It's been going on since I got the laptop but I am finally back in the US with a few weeks to analyze stuff.

This is RGB 0,0,0 and it looks yellow but it should look white
https://goo.gl/photos/za4sKpezbG3zjpkSA

This is RGB 0,0,255. This is the only way I can have it show blue at all. Anything else that is blue dominant appears green.
https://goo.gl/photos/MkjBqgGvNGi2gCYw8

This is RGB 0,120,255. Should be more blue than green but its almost all green. The green dominates the blue no?
https://goo.gl/photos/vaXjBavPus9vVNzU9

This is RGB 0,255,255. Should be a Blue/Green color but its almost the same as above.

This is RGB 0,255,0. It's a pure green and looks the way it should as its 100% green
https://goo.gl/photos/tFJ7Vu4x8ZGjqCms6

Is this normal? Or should I contact the vendor [xoticpc] for a replacement keyboard?

 

I just popped into Jaycar next to the local officeworks and got them to spin it up - pretty quiet at 12V. I got the guy to push it up to 16V and it got pretty noisy. Lol @ "108CFM" I think they missed a decimal point more like 1CFM.

No not normal but the colours on mine do seem overbright (tending white) unless its complete darkness. How are you setting those values? I can't get pure R G or B using the flexikey program?