*** Official Clevo P870DM2/P870DM3 (Sager NP9873/NP9872) Owner's Lounge! - The Phoenix 2 is here! **

I hope AMD can force Intel and Nvidia to hurry up

 

We are all hope the same, very interesting news about what AMD will do in the near future in both sides CPU and GPU, it will rise the competition again in the market.

 

Since the P570WM we are missing the 6/8+ cores and Xeon , maybe AMD will force the availability for that again.

 

6 core will come. Already determined there will be 6 core low powered BGA

 

If it will happens, it will be the 1st time on Earth

 

http://www.guru3d.com/news-story/6-...oing-mainstream-in-2018-with-coffee-lake.html

 

Thank you that was some good info.

 

Delidding is a processor-only situation. I did not expect your CPU to be the cooler function in your notebook... that's the absolute opposite from what I have experienced.

But if you're talking about the GPUs, then Meaker's repad guide and a repaste are basically the only way to go as far as internally fixing up the machine.

 

For the delid. There is someone in Houston who makes a tool that works great. He is close to 1960 and jones and would help you delid and apply clu I bet. He is a really nice guy. Just email him if you live close to that area.

http://rockitcool.myshopify.com/

 

it means i can get another year out of the P870DM-G with my upgrades and mods. should buy a heat gun and vinyl wrap

 

Too late to order now...

"TEMPORARILY OUT OF STOCK
NOT BEING ABLE TO SHIP SAME DAY IS DRIVING ME CRAZY. CALLING A HALT TO ORDERS UNTIL ALL BACKORDERS ARE FILLED"

 

I had the same issue and I have two GPUs implying double the trouble, I forced a constant voltage of 0.9 volts and it now rarely crosses 80 degrees even in BF1. I still have an issue with the CPU though which seems to be breaking record 100 degrees

 

If it's a year old it will be a 6xxx series chip.

 

Yes in general pad adjustments are the largest impact mods.

 

Did not notice that. He must have got a bunch of orders.
I bet he has a personal one in the shop though and would delid for someone for a small price If they were worried about doing themselves

 

I 3D printed that >> delid tool

 

but you can 3D print that one too >> delid tool 2

 

You can download the file and send it to shapeways or imaterialize. They'll 3D print it for you in a number of different materials.

 

Yup, that's a popular way to go, but a bit more "muscle" intensive requiring a vise or clamp and a bit more skill to pull it off, so to speak.

The RockitCool Delid tool is a bit more "civilized".

And, it looks like they are shipping again:
http://rockitcool.myshopify.com/

"SAME DAY SHIPPING IS BACK
ALL ORDERS HAVE BEEN FILLED. ALL STOCK RESTORED. MILL IS RUNNING FULL SPEED. LIFE IS GOOD"

 

I believe the 1080ti is going to be released soon. Would be awesome to see the 1080ti in a laptop.

 

You can get someone local to print it on 3DHubs faster and for less money.

 

@ lctalley0109 - thanks for the tip, I'll hit the guy up.

Yes, it sounds weird, but after jacking down the voltage (just -150mv for adaptive setting, no other changes), and it runs at 45-50 when just browsing stuff on the internet, and maybe hits mid 70s when under load? I think I saw it hit 80 once after like 6 hours straight of Civ VI at max settings with all sorts of crap going on on screen. The GPU repad and repaste is on my list for this coming weekend and I'll try to get the local (to me) guy linked by ictalley to do the delid for me so I don't hamfist it. CPU should be nice and cool for some wacky overclocking after that.

Yikes, no paste on that processor? I may try the voltage thing too after I do the pads. 100 degrees is HOT.

 

Just contact him via website and ask for his address and if you can bring your machine by the shop for him to either Delid it or to help you out. He told me he works Saturdays and sometimes Sundays as well. When I went by the shop I picked up the delid kit and did it right there on the spot on his work table. He sells CLU as well if you don't have any.

 

Okay. Shoving W10 on this has fixed some issues for me, but not all.

Firstly, I can see my sign in now. I had to wipe the UEFI partition created when I installed Windows 8.1. I actually installed W10 twice; once without wiping it to see (it did not get fixed) and once after wiping it (letting it be created anew), which fixed it.

Secondly, my processor seems to be capable of downclocking now. Interesting.

Thirdly, I can install touchpad drivers. @John@OBSIDIAN-PC thank you so much for that driver download tool, it's about as fantastic as three large pizzas for $5 with a $25 rebate for buying at the shop.

Onto the issues that weren't fixed, my USB issues are not. When the display times out if I wake the display it lags the USB ports. All of them. I haven't installed CCC yet; that may be a deciding factor, and if it is, then it means this machine cannot properly function without CCC (even if the lack of function is minor). If it isn't, I need other users here to test. If the problem is specific to me, it means my motherboard is screwed up. If it isn't specific to me, then a BIOS update likely needs to happen.

Anyone want to help? You will need a USB headset to get the easiest test for the wake-screen USB latency spike.

 

So I've been away for a few weeks. Anyone do another review on the 780w power supply?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Got mine a few days ago. No plan on reviewing but it feels sturdy and looks very nice

 

Only the one from @Mr. Fox
Introducing the EUROCOM 780W Notebook AC Adapter (Clevo & MSI Ready)

 

Also to add D2 had his Win8.1 Installation in UEFI mode, I don't know how would the machine react if it was installed in 8.1 with UEFI-CSM boot, Still seeing the new hardware having hiccups with the Older OS which "IT" (Z170-Skylake) has support for is a giant bummer. But yeah we can expect that since M$ (Their first scare tactic was this - Skylake won't be supported unless It's on Win10, yeah they backtracked but doesn't seem like it now and then..) and all other HW Corp. want to rule the OSes out which have "User controllable environment". Seems like Win10 is the only viable option for a better functioning hardware, as they say we can never expect the support even though system works fine and looks perfect - In this case the boot-up was messed, Can't be sure what could happen,

Since @Mr. Fox has his Installation with Win7, which supposedly works super fine..(because with D2 issue you cannot simply select a boot option while running 8.1 with that Full-UEFI setup) I suspected this, as we know for that we need the "non-pure UEFI option" a.k.a UEFI-CSM for Win7 Installation as it doesn't have support for Pure-UEFI.

Correct me If I'm wrong. Thanks !

P.S- Really would be much appreciated if anyone can chime in if their setup(s) is/are running Win8.1 in Pure UEFI and/or non full UEFI setups, Maybe even Win7 would add more info to this issue.

 

@Ashtrix it is not possible to boot Windows 7 in pure UEFI. You only need video CSM enabled because Windows 7 does not support UEFI GOP.

 

Windows 7, 8.X and 10 all support pure Legacy BIOS (all UEFI options disabled) and UEFI+CSM. Only Windows 8.X and Windows 10 support pure UEFI (GOP video). With Windows 7 you can have UEFI for everything except video and that has to be changed to Legacy for Windows 7 to load using it's own bootloader.

I have been able to run Windows 7 in pure UEFI mode on the P870DM3 when loading it off of the Windows 10 bootloader in a dual boot setup, but that is definitely an anomaly. And, it only works sometimes in that configuration, and absolutely never works with its own Windows 7 bootloader. The part I cannot figure out is why sometimes it works with UEFI GOP using the Windows 10 bootloader and other times it does not. That part has me stumped. I've concluded that when it does work it's only because of a weird glitch, and when it does not work it is because everything is working correctly as designed.

 

Maybe cold boot vs warm boot?

 

@Mr. Fox perhaps overwriting bootmgfw.efi in the EFI partition with the one from Windows 10 will get it to boot as you describe (rather than dual boot)

 

That could have something to do with it. I think it works either way when it does work, but I would need to deliberately try both ways to confirm that. I discovered it completely by accident. I had it set the wrong way and it still worked.

That might work. It's interesting, to say the least. I don't really need it to, but it would be convenient if it worked 100% of the time.

Maybe I will play around with it more out of curiosity.

 

GRUB should work too, I think.

 

Spoiler: Lapped heatsink and thicker shim on CPU

Down from 85C

Spoiler: New VC with much better fit

Also down from 85C

 

Nice! Great job.

How thick was the last shim, and what thickness are you using now? Are you using CLU?

@bloodhawk - did I see where you have used K5 Pro? If so, I missed your posts if you shared pictures. I have never tried it before, but I have ordered some to test. Did you replace all of your GPU thermal pads with it on the P870DM-G? Does it cure in time, and if so is it difficult to get the GPU and heat sink separated? Or, does it maintain its original gummy consistency ?

 

Both were 0.5mm, but I sanded the first one down to probably 0.4 because I thought it was too thick the last time I tried. Turns out it's just right. I'm using CLU.

 

I think it was a while back when i did the heatsink mod for the DM1's 980 with the shims and replaced all the thermal pads with paste. First i tried K5 Pro, and then switched to Kryonaut for both the core and the components, which was wayyy wayy better.
I tried K5 pro both with and without shim, and both cases it didnt quite perform all that well. Maybe because it isnt designed for high TDP parts?

 

Yeah, it is not high W/mK. I'm thinking using it on things that don't get that hot (like the vRAM chips) to improve contact of the things that do, like the inductors and core. It looks like there would be no resistance to the K5 Pro and it would conform to whatever thickness necessary so that very thin high W/mK pads could be used on the more critical parts.

Does it have any "glue" holding power to fasten a copper heat sink on something like a PCH chip or a M.2 SSD where there is no ability to fasten the heat sink with screws? If it does, K5 might work great to attach heat sinks on M.2 drives where many of the components are varying heights (which is not great for using thermal pads).

 

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/18200829 I get this @ 4.2GHz and -190mV



Is there any room for improvement ?

P.S Ignore the fact that it says 980, its actually a 1080 . Unfortunately, now I am stuck at High Performance mode since as soon as I switch to Balanced mode, I get a BSOD due to the high undervolt .

 

Yeah that was my main intention.
But I found that it becomes a bit runny after getting hot.
But it's a pain to clean it later on.

 

Hmm... well, so much for that idea. Thanks for the input. Now I wish I hadn't ordered it, LOL. I was hoping it would at least make a good substitute to securely hold components like small heat sinks (as mentioned above) without having to make the installation permanent with thermal epoxy, but it sounds like based on your experience it would even work for that purpose. I thought maybe it would set into a rubbery silicon-like material with thermally conductive properties. Darn it... not sure there is a product available like that.

 

There is such a thing as thermal adhesive to do something permanently, last time I used that was to put a thermtake crystal orb onto a radeon 8500 however

315mhz core and 315mhz memory (with a beta vbios with tighter timings) all day every day

It's crazy we have gone from 4 pixel pipelines to over 5000 shaders running at 6x the clock.

 

Yeah, I knew that I cannot use 980M on my machine due to the same reason (also locked sBIOS) of Win7 having only Legacy VGA and no GOP - not full UEFI. Mr. Fox was using Win7 since 870DM so I was thinking that UEFI-CSM is the way here to make the older OSes work properly or even Legacy only too (with new OSes - Garbage X) which I came to know now thanks to Mr. Fox. UEFI is a cancer tbh.

 

Yes, I know and use it. But, I was hoping the K5 Pro would work well as a good thermal adhesive that is durable, but not permanent. Kind of like using silicon adhesive, but with good thermal conductivity. Apparently, that's not the case and maybe there is not a product like that. Something that could be used, for example, to glue a heat sink to a bare PCH or an M.2 SSD and never fall off, yet still be able to be pulled off later without any damage.

 

LOL should have let me know, would have happily sent over mine.

Yeah, it stays pasty and gets a wee bit runny. At least it did with the 980. But my main problem was cleaning the whole card after wards.

 

@Ashtrix @Mr. Fox https://github.com/davidcie/VgaShim may be of interest. It is an EFI module that sets up an int 10h interrupt handler.

 

Well, just for kicks I switched it over to see what kind of mood it was in today, and Windows 7 is back to booting in UEFI/GOP mode again, LOL. Maybe undocumented @Prema magic had something to do with it. Seriously, though... not supposed to work and sometimes it stops working (goes back to freezing at logon) and I have to change the BIOS back to Legacy for video. Maybe something gets stored in NVRAM from Windows 10 that lets it work until whatever is stored in NVRAM gets lost.



@Meaker@Sager - cold or warm boot... working both ways today.

 

What laptop cooling pad do you guys recommend for the P870DM3?

 

For another forum member with the same question... Short answer: Buy a U3, mod it to make it better, or just prop up the back edge of the laptop and save your cash for something useful. Anything other than a U3 is a waste of money on an ineffective solution.