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It stays at 40 amps further up too, they don't give any official figures but it looks like it will do that up to around 80-100C. The efficiency does drop though so having the doubled phases helps keep the power losses down.

 

600 Amps , monstrosity. Pity i dont trust ASUS GPU with the binning.

 

Who do you think bin the best gpu chip for 1080ti?

 

If it does 40A at even higher temp it sounds good.

Btw how thick are the pads on vrm, the blue spongey ones?

 

It's 6 + 2 IIRC too btw with the two smaller phases doing the ram and the even smaller phases doing AUX etc.

I never exactly measured the thicker blue pads since I never replaced them.

 

From personal Experience i would say EVGA>Zotac/Gigabyte>MSI

 

Ah ok.

Are you sure that the mem phase is 2? Seems like it only have 1 inductor on the smaller voltage controller.

Not good experience with my Zotac 1080 AMP, can't push beyond 1999mhz without crash.

I'll go back to EVGA soon.

 

Ah then lets change that to -

EVGA> Gigabyte > MSI > ASUS/Zotac.

 

I wonder how the FE cards fare against manufacturer binned ones, they seem easier to mount the maxwell hybrid cooler on.

 

Umm here are some benches i did with my 1080Ti (non power modded) -

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/12164642 - 7714

http://www.3dmark.com/spy/1490385 - 10 033

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/12195287 - 24 507

Mine cant do anything over 2050 , Rock solid at 2038Mhz though . Most are around 2050 ish.

Initial batches are easily hitting 2100+.

 

They are the best binned chips from the center of the wafer (founders editions).

Also can you show me which inductors you are talking about Mobius.

 

@bloodhawk ah alright, I'll take note of that

Also, are you sure that removing the c clips and not putting a shim is a good idea? I just check on the CPU the IHS is barely taller than the mounting bracket.

There's a smaller UPI voltage controller in this area, the PCB traces tell me that the topmost power delivery is for the GDDR5/x

Or maybe it's the smaller 2-phase near the power connector.

 

Unless your bracket is not flat and the IHS is sitting slightly under level, then removing the clips will not help much. But that is the point of removing the clips, the heat sink makes full contact with the IHS that way and eliminates the need for a shim.
http://imgur.com/a/FCseD

 

Not removing the c-clips, using a shim is almost mandatory because the heat sink rests on top of the c-clips before it makes contact with the IHS. The clips can actually prevent the heat plate from touching the IHS. By removing the c-clips, the heat sink is able to slide further down on the 4 screws and (hopefully) make solid contact with the IHS. Using a shim and removing the c-clips could improve contact pressure by a fair amount, which can help improve cooling as long as the paste used has superior thermal conductivity (or the shim is soldered to the heat plate).

 

@Mr. Fox @Papusan @Meaker@Sager


What do you guys think

https://imgur.com/a/A3nUl

 

Your IHS seems great. And is a a decent amount higher. I would sand that Heat sink surface though.
End of the day if it doesnt help , you can always put the clips back in. Takes like a minute.

 

I agree, I think the IHS is going to be OK. It seems to have more clearance between the retainer bracket and the top surface than mine does, so you won't need to use a shim to avoid the heat sink contacting the retainer bracket and behind held away from making contact with the IHS.

The heat sink looks like it is warped pretty bad to me looking at the light shining through between the straight edge and heat plate. Polish the heat plate to a glossy finish and see how the temps are without a shim. If it is as deformed (not flat) as it looks in your photos, you may need a shim (or a replacement heat sink) even without the c-clips. If it will work well without a shim, that would be ideal, but the only way you're going to know it to test it both ways. Use some cheap paste that is easy to clean up to compare the delta/difference between shim and no shim. (You already know it will get better with liquid metal.)

 

You have probably pressure paper. Test the contact fit before you make the final application. If not use your most creamy thermal paste. I would sand the HS first as @bloodhawk mentioned.

 

I just received my replacement 1080 and a test specimen CPU heat sink from HIDevolution this morning. Hopefully, this weekend I will find time to solder the shim to the heat sink as per the example we see from Brother @John@OBSIDIAN-PC and will share the outcome.

 

Damn, not looking good then...


Will do pressure paper and test later. I have shims but currently running low on paste.

 

Dont really need pressure paper. Just replace the thermal pads on the VRM's next to the socket to 1.5mm/0.5mm and you are good to go. Worst case, you put the cclips back in with the original thermal pads.

 

Even with the atrocious heatsink gap?

 

Use a small amount of creamy thermal paste and measure the fits. If bad sand down your heatsink for better fit.

 

^ This.

Till the time you are not using Liquid Metal, for the time being a traditional paste should be fine. But that Heat Sink definitely needs sanding.

 

How did you sand yours? Attach the sandpaper to a block of wood?

 

Kinda , in a way. I used the coarse 3M sanding foam blocks and then once i was satisfying i taped the finer sandpapers to for the finish.

 

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Sanding-Sponge-Fine-6-Pack/dp/B004MW4GFM

 

Yep, i got the 3 Pack.

 

wonder if the IHS is convex or concave? Maybe the bend on the cpu hsf was to compensate that?

 

Doubt it. Because my IHS is perfectly flat on my 7700k.
My Heat Sink however need a little bit of sanding. And a bit of bending along the edge of a table.

 

hmm I noticed another oddity

when I place the RAM stick vertically along the narrow portion, the IHS is flat

if I place the ram sideways (long portion), the heatsink edges seem to be a bit crooked causing the light to pass through

 

Dang, you seem to have the same uneven bracket like @Mr. Fox . Removing the clips might help, but not as much as it has helped me and a few others.

 

:|

 

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

maybe woodzstack can help with selling me another set of heatsink...

 

You can still fiddle with what you got first and see how it goes. Use all the tricks in the book

 

I don't have the rough grit sandpaper just yet.

 

You can get them at RjTech , but they are bit overpriced. Might as well check with HIDEvolution if they can sell you a set.

 

Does any of them allow customer to buy this if they don't have a notebook purchased from?



Also, @D2 Ultima pointed out that max system power draw is around 480w?

Eurocom power brick shows 480w the general limit but has spikes around 520w.


"Clevo BIOS won't let your pc use over 480w"

 

Yeap RjTech has then listed. HIDEvolution, you might need to email them.

Haven't used the system with the stock BIOS at all, so can't really say.
@D2 Ultima , has the Prema BIOS so that shouldn't be the case.

 

Ask @Donald@HIDevolution He can give you the answer

 

Oh yeah

 

@bloodhawk - yes D2 has prema bios, that's why he can draw 500+w and not throttle and I'm limited to 480w

 

Modern . Hnnng.. Art

 

Yeah afaik I have no power limits on this thing. He does tho.

Sent from my OnePlus 1 using a coconut

 

Well message el Primo

 

Prema's DM3 isn't working very well the last time I heard, he still try to fix it.

 

Eh missed that post . What happened to it.?

 

Replacing the thermal pads for gpu and CPU. Anyone have an idea how much of each size I will need? I ordered some fujipoly but when they arrived I realized they were only 60 x 60 mm

 

You will need more than that. A lot more.





@bloodhawk PM Fox about it, I'm not sure if I'm allowed to talk about it here.



Can anyone post temperature of 1080SLi under unigine heaven 4K ultra and tesselation maxed out?

I get 71c gpu0 and 69c gpu1, not sure if this is ok for 25c ambient