*** Official Clevo P870DM2/P870DM3 (Sager NP9873/NP9872) Owner's Lounge! - The Phoenix 2 is here! **

Whats the recommended thickness is for the pads on the chokes?

 

http://www.computer-systems.gr/content/k5-pro

Just put a dab of this on

 

Check my pad layout guide.

 

Based on your pad layout and Mobius 1, it seems like I need 0.5,1.0,1.5,2.0, and 4mm. For backup, I should be getting all at 100x100 sizes.

Or, I should just get the K5 Pro Thermal Pad Paste?

 

Put K5 on the chokes, thermal pad on VRAM/VRM.

 

I have a bunch of K5 Pro that I have not tried using yet. @bloodhawk used it on a 980 and said it melted all over the place and made a big mess that was a pain in the butt to clean up. I don't know if @Mobius 1 has found the same to be true in his experience, but I am reluctant to use it because I don't need an extra mess to clean up later. It's not conductive and won't cause any harm, but still don't like messes.

 

The mess is exactly why i didnt use it after trying it twice. Initially i thought it was the batch, but i emailed them about the viscosity after getting heated up, and they pretty much said that it how its supposed to work. Its not too liquidy, but enough to get in between the inductors.

 

I recommend to spread the K5 over the choke if you are concerned about the mess.

The conforming nature of K5 when heated up is what makes the compound great. But I understand the potential drawback.

@Meaker@Sager



Next time I will try using Arctic thermal pad on the chokes, the overall height of the choke+pad must be similar to the height of the VRM + pad. Hopefully the core temp will improve since we're taking more of the heat from the choke into the heatsink and reduce heat radiation.

I also recommend you to find a squishy thermal pad that compress well.

Notice on the top left of the VRM area, there is 4mm and 2mm. The discrepancy in height of thermal pad is because Clevo put a shim of some sort on that area of the vapor chamber.

Ideally next time Clevo would make all the thermal pad 0.5mm, make it easier to repad.

Example of this is the AW maxwell BGA generation, all of the pads are 0.5 and makes logistics + thermal pad shopping really easy.

 

When I purchased it I was hoping it would stay together and peel off kind of like a silicon jelly type of product, but I found out later that was not the case. I was hoping to use it for a variety of things, thinking it might have an adhesive quality to it. Had I known you and @bloodhawk already had some experience with it, I probably would have asked question and possibly not have ordered it. I have 6 "chapstick" applications of it.

One of the things I thought it might work for (and apparently will not) is to securely (but not permanently) mount heat sinks on M.2 and PCH chips. I ordered some of this for that and used it to glue the heat sinks on my M.2 drives. Seems to be working fine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/182415541348?

 

@Dr. AMK if possible can you take really high quality pics of the 1070MXM front and back of PCB?

Ideally the quality would be high enough for us to see the small lettering on the PCB components

 

That paste work as non permanent thermal adhesive?

So if arctic alumina is red threadlocker, that ebay link is for the blue threadlocker?

 

Yes, it seems to work fine as a non-permanent thermal adhesive. I want to give it more time, then I will see if I can get the heat sink off one of the M.2 drives and see how well it was stuck, how difficult to clean up, etc. If it works as I hope it does, then I will use it to glue a thick copper shim on the naked Tornado F5 PCH chip. I want to be sure it is not too strong to be safely removed before I do that to the PCH. If it does what I want to, I will put CLU on the PCH die and surround the PCH PCB with the white thermal glue to hold it down.

(corrected my previous post - I do not have heat sinks on my NVMe SSDs)

 

Tell us how it goes

 

Unfortunately, I have no access to the laptop, I'll come back home next week, sorry my friend, I wish that I can do that, even my wife can't do it, she has no experience at all.

 

No rush, thanks for taking the time to reply.

 

Got it. Will be getting all the pads then. Any big performance difference between brands? TG vs ARCTIC?

Or i can juat get any that is convenient for me on the pads?

 

Arctic work best for 0.5/1/1.5
Here for every other thickness: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-100mm-...al-Pad-/251735856827?var=&hash=item3a9ca056bb


Fuji and grizzly pads are way too dense and don't compress properly for laptop uses. Clevo heatsink have big tolerance and if you use dense thermal pads it will mess up the pressure on the dies.

 

Thermal Paste and Thermal Pads Roundup - Performance, Price, Recommendations Nice guide from @jaybee83

 

chinese generic 3.2w/mk is not included in test :|

 

I have an assortment of those and they work as well as the expensive branded pads. I am not buying any more of the expensive branded pads. Most of the things the pads are used on need to be cooled, but they do not seem to get ridiculously hot. The GPU inductors can get crazy hot, but using thin 3.2w/mk pads should be adequate.

 

heatsink is big enough


For thermally dense system, 11/14wmk can make a difference. AW17 with 1080-180w is a prime example.

 

I'm so glad you showed me this. I was so close to spending almost $400 on 3 sheets of Fuji poly

 

You're welcome bro Maybe push out +rep to @jaybee83 the guide maker

 

Done.

 

If you are using thinner pads than stock you are already improving conductivity anyway.

 

So I haven't been around for a while so I apologize. I still think my delid 7700k is running a bit warm for stock clocks. I'm using kryonaut (sp?, the thermal grizzly stuff that is the best before going liquid metal) but I think the contact may be off. Someone said about using a copper shim? What are the details on this? Where can I get it / how do I use it and so on.


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You will find MORE if you search in the Clevo sub-threads.

 

So, sorry about that. I do follow that thread but it has been a while. My 7700k is at stock (all cores x45 so not completely) and my gaming load temps are around 73c with overclock fan profile. Nothing like the temps they were seeing (100c+).


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A bit of an undervolt at stock will improve temps a fair bit.

 

Well I'm already at the lowest overvolt I can go without crashing. This is with a delidded 7700k from siliconlottery.com

I'll have to run some full load testing tomorrow to quote those temps.


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Anyone have the SynTp.sys driver cause BSOD's? I've had a "driver not less than or equal to" twice in a month. I'll try putting on a new driver and see, but man it has been annoying.

 

I havent had this happen to me, but i know others who have had this with the Synaptics driver. Just uninstall and update to the latest version. ANd hopefully that should fix it.

 

There were some people having issues IIRC, what bloodhawk suggested is certainly the first step.

 

I used to on my old P870DM. Just uninstall the drivers and get the latest one. Fixed the issue for me back then.

 

Hey you know, slightly off-topic from whatever the existing topic is here... but this keyboard. Since people keep saying it's bad and terrible can they can't type on it etc, I decided to make some runs on TypeRacer as a guest. This is my journey today!

Spoiler: lots of pictures

After a couple races of warming up, I cracked 100WPM:


So I had to take a WPM typing test to prove it:


It seemed it was heavily suggested I make an account, so as to not be challenged with the typing test again. So I did, and then my very first race afterward was like:



Eh so they asked me to do another test. Not really a problem, it turns out:


And for posterity sake, my account record is:

So to those who say the keyboard is worthless and can't be used for anything and whatnot... well, I kind of just proved that wrong
@Phoenix

And now to play devil's advocate, imagine me on a better keyboard...

 

Phoenix on his SteelSeries Keyboard / MSI GT73VR TITAN Pro >>>

 

If I ever get my hands on one of those I'll definitely see if my TypeRacer scores improve

 

Thanks everyone who chimed in. That's what I figured. I installed overtop of the old ones (yes I know... not a good idea). If it happens again I'll fully uninstall and reinstall them.

 

Usually putting drivers over the top is not an issue but if you have issues then a clean start is a good first step

 

The two of you should have a typing duel and see which keyboard+typist wins the challenge.

 

WTH! I use 2 fingers and peck at the keyboard like a chicken. I've never timed myself but I think I'm at about 15 to maybe 16 WPM and I thought I was doing OK. I guess I suck at typing. This post took over a minute

 

I only use five fingers. Middle and index on both hands and ring finger on left hand for shift

Sent from my OnePlus 1 using a coconut

 

Maybe there is something you are not telling us.

 

LLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
LLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL

 

So I've been seeing a lot of complaining / dislike over Windows 10 (and to a smaller degree Nvidia) recently. I'm not here to start a flame war but just to broaden my understanding. I assume this is about the data that it captures and sends back?

I'm personally of the opinion that if someone can take my data and use it to make the product better so be it. Id rather have someone take it off the OS than my cable companies taking all data in and out and using it to market. I'm not a fanboy of either product (although I'm a much larger fan of the UI in windows 10 than I ever was of windows 7).

I'm really not attempting to change anyone's mind just trying to understand a different point of view that's all. Typically I used to find people making fun of MacOS in forums such as these but that doesn't seem to be the case anymore.


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The updates breaking stuff is not great either for Win 10, as for the typing above every one should be at least using four fingers

 

I don't like the data collection and that kind of crap, I just find Windows 8.X and Windows 10 are both inferior to Windows 7. All of the Nazi spy crap sucks, but I am able to deal with and that's not why I find Windows 10 to be an inferior product. In a few things there is a tiny bit of increase in graphics performance with Windows 10, but in more things Windows 7 outperforms Windows 10 by a small margin. I also find the default version of Windows 10 UI to be extremely ugly and it requires a TON of work to get it to the point that I am willing to use it. With Windows 7 all I need to do it disable Windows Update service and it's ready to rock and roll. At the end of the day, Windows 10 is mostly an unnecessary, inferior, bloated gimmick-driven product that is mostly loathsome because it is a huge pain the the ass to deal with because I am not willing to use it the way it ships. I cannot identify a good reason for it to exist.

 

Some INFO And You will find a Hell lot more with a few Google search Now we will get 2 Big Updates every year. Fun reading with Google search after every release.

 

Even though I don't agree about the UI I appreciate your honesty and willingness to share without cutting each other down. That's why I appreciate you two and the community as a whole.


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Hello,

About that GPU undervolting, I'm self quoting and self responding.
Not much experiences found on the subject so I figured I'd post what I gathered.

The GPU frequencies work in levels. I wrote down for my GTX 1080, in Mhz : 1911 --> 1898 --> 1886 --> 1873 --> 1860 --> 1848 --> 1835 --> 1823 --> 1810 --> 1797 --> 1785 --> 1772, each one corresponding to a lower and lower voltage.
As temperature rises, max GPU frequency goes down in levels. So the higher the temperature, the lower the frequency : at 83° C the frequency doesn't go above 1810 Mhz. This is also why the temperature rises quickly at first and then slower as the voltage goes down with it (and with constant fan speed).

After a quick research I found an easy way to undervolt the GPU with MSI afterburner so the temperature drops significantly.

Youtube source :

Spoiler

Basically, add a ligne in the MSI AB file to enable monitor voltage, press ctrl+F to show the frequency/voltage curve editor and choose the max voltage matching with the max frequency you want. Do some testing with benchmarks and games to find the good spot for stability.

For the moment I set 1911 Mhz to 950 mV but I shall continue some testing.

Not only the temp drops but frequency stays higher than before so overall performance is improved when benchmarking and playing. More important for me, as it was the main goal : fans speed never go beyond 53 % now
You can overclock and drop temps at the same time but it's not the subject here.

To sum up : lower temperature, better performance, lower consumption, less noise.

It's not as permanent as BIOS CPU undervolting, you need MSI AB but it's still very good to know.