*** Official Clevo P870KM1/P870KM1-G/Sager NP9876 Owner's Lounge! - Phoenix 3.0 ***

https://www.3dmark.com/compare/fs/13719680/fs/11884708#

@Ground_Zro a bit better but still sucks. I cleared it up two days ago - temperatures on gpu are +/- 70C. In this test i used default nvidia settings - only g-sync off and max performance. Also max performance in power settings and max in clevo control center. Idk what else it could be if u say that ur graphic score is same.

 

They've been doing that for years. I still find better performance from 375.70 for W7 and 378.66 drivers for W10 than anything newer. Go back to the old driver and see if the score jumps back up to would it should be and that will be the proof. Like many thing in computer world, the latest ain't necessarily the greatest, and drivers are no exception. Newer is not always better.

This is definitely a possibility with Pascal's asinine room temperature throttling crap. All it takes is 1°-2°C too much to drop the core clocks and screw up your benchmark scores, big time. Very, very, extremely stupid how NVIDIA designed Pascal that way. It should run full boost balls to the wall until like 85°C before the clocks begin to drop.

 

So my scores are not the same as your I have 2x 1080s but I will disable SLI when I get off work and see what my score is. But that being said mine is delidded with liquid metal on CPU / GPUs

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@Mr. Fox tried 378.66, its a bit better but i guess in my case its not all about drivers. I also was monitoring GPU temps this time and found out that occasionally it hits 91C(So it is what MrFox said) ! I guess grizzly kryonaut on gpu is dried so repasting awaits. Im rly surprised that it is dry already. It's been only 5 months since last repaste and grizzly is not some **** no name paste.

I always spread paste on GPU with line method but saw that some peps (for ex MrFox) use spread method - and also he spreads some on heat sync radiator(idk if its right name for it). Mby it is worth to try, what you think guys?

PS. And Ofc i cant unscrew GPU rediator coz screws are rly soft. Guess i have to buy also new screws.. One more thing, i saw guide with termopads but only for VC heat sync. Is there any termopad guide for regular dual fan single gpu heatsync?

 

I won't call it dried. Till you take the heatsink off.

 

Unless it's MX-4.


+40% chance of pumping out when exposed to oxygen
+90% cancer chance
-100.1% cooling performance

xdd

 

Not only Mx-4, Kryonaut ain’t the best option if the gpu heatsink isn’t the best from Clevo.

 

So now that I got everything Liquid metal'd and the new thermal pads and all here is my stress test using 3d mark. I think those are decent numbers. The CPUUD was running the entire time the computer has been on to include a couple of benchmarks and the HWINFO was reset before running the stress test.

@Rahego here is my run in SLI which is about 600 points lower then a previous one, but I didn't have time to go through and compare them to see any differences. I'll disable a video card later and run it to see what the score is.

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And that's why most lazy resellers out there only have ICD as an option.

No offense btw.

 

Kyro is more aimed at stability/conductivity at -100C

 

Woah, I had no idea that MX-4 is that bad. I always imagined it as a good paste since Romanians seem to hold it in high regards...

 

Believe it. @Mobius 1 is telling the truth. MX-4 and NT-H1 are both truly horrid about pump-out. They last me 2 or 3 days and then the paste is everywhere except for the die, LOL.

 

lol I know I were just dragging time to end the benchmark. I were sipping tea and eating JaffaCakes at the same time too

My temps for BF:H before the.925 silver IHS was 77c max on auto fans, but I had bad prep work and no U3+ Varder fan mod (x3 fans on 40%) so its not a fair test. I prefer auto fans when I'm gaming because it starts the fans faster. But when I'm surfing, I think overclock is better.

On another case... I have ran the exactly the same test as my old video (below) and I got 58c max on Intel extreme tuning utility CPU stress test (10 min) . This is with full fans though and -180mv undervolt. So the silver .925 lid only gave me a 2c less on my max CPU compare to my last same test on this video which toped at 61c max. No U3+ Varder fan mod used for a fair test. I hope this helps.

And just to inform you on this prep (which is the best prep I have done to date on my P870KM1). No matter how much fans are blowing on them heatsinks. My CPU has never beaten the 58c max, when on intel extreme tuning utility stress test. My CPU can not go below 58c in this scenario, no fastest, hardest fan will change anything, its just how my 7700K CPU is. As soon as there is no work, it shoots straight back down to 37-41c zone. It's just one of them good under-volt cheery-picked CPU I think

 

Ok so I ran one with one video card off. You scored higher then me on the single GPU. But for some reason when I disabled SLI it reads my GPU clock at 1556MHz.... not sure why. Temps wise I hit a max of 51c on the working GPU and I hit a max of 64c on the CPU (CPUID was running the entire time the laptop was on and HWINFO was reset before the Benchmark). Again don't forget that my CPU is delidded and has an Bitspower IHS along with everything being repasted with Liquid Metal. I hope that helps a bit.

 

Overclock the snot out of it... https://www.3dmark.com/fs/13256664

 

I see Yoo both run with lower than default Ring clocks for 7700K. Is it because you want the lowest possible temp you put Cache down to 35/38?


From Notebookcheck.net

 

Yes that one of my old videos. I didn't knew then. Clevo Bios default is x35. I have put my core cache to x40 since that video. Is that right bro?
My cores are all on x45 and my Cache Ratio Overdrive is at 40x. Is this good? can I put it higher?

 

Strange, Because I see Clevo in NBC's review run default bios for what I can see. Default cashe clocks is 3 bin under Core clocks. Not that it has great significance, but maybe put it correct for your chips. You have put all 4 cores 45x now?

 

Yeah when I hit default in CCC it puts it at 38

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Very strange. When I reset defaults on my P870KM1 it definitely goes down to x35 by default. Why is mine like this?
And yes @Papusan I have had them on X45 since that old video above. What shall I put my cache ratio to? x45, x38 ???
What is best for performance please bro?
Its on X40 right now.

 

That is strange, that the CCC default is different... Maybe because different resellers?

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Why use CCC for putting clocks? Put it 42x if you have 45x

Seems like this. Schenker Technologies XMG U727 (Clevo P870KM-GS) Laptop Review

 

That is because CCC is garbage. It is setting wrong values because it was not made correctly. Probably using the default setting for a BGA rubbish CPU.

Set cache ratio max equal to your multiplier and it will automatically run 3 bins (300MHz) less than the multiplier. Or, just set it to the max (83) and it will still run 300Mhz less than whatever your multiplier is set to. If you can do that in the BIOS, just skip using CCC.

 

Sorry! Correction. I have just shutdown my P870km1 and gone into the stock BIOS. I have loaded the defaults. My BIOS screen then displays:
1 core@ x45
3 cores@ x44
Cache Ratio@0

But when I boot up into windows 10, the Clevo dash states cache ratio to 42x. On my old Clevo dash; it loads the default cache ratio to 35x when the defaults have been set through the BIOS.

Like what @Mr. Fox it was not made correctly lol

This is the video of my stock default BIOS:

 

0 = processor default.

 

So new member to the u3 plus mod club lol, that being said the filter I got I have a question about; should it be installed on the intake side of the fan (I assume so but just making sure).

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Awesome. Yup, you did it right on the intake side.

 

Have some rep! and welcome to the U3+ Vardar fan mod party

 

So I am a mechanic as a hobby... No hardware to mount filters... Rig up some fuel hose clamps lol

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Yees

 

Hmm the tops do not fit, not enough room in between ... Hmmm I guess if I shave the middle one on both sides... Maybe

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They are quite restrictive filters.

 

On the U3 Plus I had to drill extra holes. It was like a row or two less holes on the left and right sides compared to the older U3 and my 120mm fans would not fit. Just move the left and right fans outward by one hole and bore some new ones and you'll be good to go.

 

Yes but I am headed to Afghanistan very soon, I can settle for restrictive to ensure less sand/dust gets in. BTW I will be cleaning her weekly at first and then biweekly and I'll see it I need to clean her more or less often

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I have the U3+ and I have fitted all of the 3x 120mm Vardar fans in a row, using all of the 12 screws without drilling new holes. I just moved the 3x fans one row down and they all fitted like a glove.... Unless mine is not a U3+???
But just try it anyways.

 

Ha, fair enough. You could put a metal frame around them and then use a magnetic filter.

 

I did that, one row lower. The fans fit fine, the filter covers don't fit. The filters come in 3 pieces and it's the top cover that doesn't fit. The bottom of the top cover is angled outwards

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I like that, good idea

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Should help you scratch that mechanics itch too

 

https://www.demcifilter.com/Alphacool-ST30-Trip-120mm-Dust-Filter

 

Plus that minimises the restriction.

 

No, yours is a U3+ for sure. I have both and they are very different. There is no mistaking them. It is also possible there was a minor change in design on the U3+ at some point. My U3+ is the oldest that came out right after U3 was discontinued. Adding the extra holes actually worked well for me. The extra 3 or 4mm of space between the fans gave me an easy place to route wiring for the AC adapter straight in from the back.

 

The 120mm fans fit the holes perfectly on mine but the 140mm were totally off hence the holes I cut.

 

Now that I think back on this mod and what I did, I had to space mine out an extra hole to allow for the filters. They did fit side-by-side without extra holes, but the filters would not fit because there was not enough clearance, just as @Ground_Zro experienced. I have the same filters and they are not restrictive. Temps are the same with and without them and the air flow feels the same both ways (until they need to be cleaned). If the filters were installed on the output side it might act as an air diffuser and mess things up quite a bit, but having them on the intake side doesn't seem to have any effect for me in terms of restriction. I also have large holes cut in the top of the cooler the diameter of the fan blades like @Papusan. That really helped a lot with air flow.

 

So after "lapping" the sides of the filters the touch... It fits lol

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A good idea especially for those who prefer lower noise from the fans (they can reduce the fans rpm or use less powerful fans without destroying the whole airflow / pressure).

 

So after everything, the fan controller is not capable of pushing the fans to 3000rpm

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DP9WRZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_DUcZzb250QPJQ

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Should manage 8w per Output

 

I was reading the manual and it says "up to 2000rpms" unless I'm reading it wrong?

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So one more quick question, if I block off the area between the laptop and the cooling pad, would it work better? What I'm trying to say is, if I make a seal from the U3 cooling pad fans to the bottom cover vents to prevent the cool air from the fans escaping out the sides of the gap between the cooling pad and the laptop would that improve the cooling pads performance or hurt it?

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