*** Official Clevo PB5xExx(-G) Owner's Lounge ***

Pretty sure this is the same panel and based on the reviews mentioned in the video below, the color accuracy is pretty poor and not much better even if calibrated. Really want this screen/ laptop for content creation/ graphic design and it seems super promising, however unless I see otherwise as more reviews come out, the color accuracy thing is a deal breaker.

 

Check laptopmag’s review of the 15” Spectre x360 OLED. If factory calibrated it seems you can have great color accuracy with this panel.

 

So over at bestware, I can get the 8th gen version for £150 less than the 9tb gen version. Is it worth it? Cause of all these new exploits, I was wondering if the 9th gen was protected from them and wouldn't have to disable hyper threading to protect against it.

 

Fundamentally the base silicon of 8th and 9th gen is extremely similar.

 

I just left Microcenter and had a good look at their new inventory.

Having reviewed this laptop from HID I was quite surprised just how much cheaper the look and feel of the Powerspec 1520 and 1720 were.

Not that their current $1399/1499 price tag isn’t solid.

It’s all plastic, grey, with an orange trim.

 

If you want to a hit a price point there is always some compromise.

 

I do kind of like the orange trim though. And im usually against the 'gamer' look.

 

I had no idea there was that big of difference between the HID and Powerspec’s in terms of build quality.

Just left Best Buy after looking at the 4K OLED panel on the HP and am pretty disappointed. Saturation on colors was disgusting! I was hoping for an accurate display out of the box but the colors are way too much.

 

Due to the expense usually factory calibration is kept to specific devices.

 

Hey @Meaker@Sager, are you guys not stocking the PB51RF-G? I can find it on some resellers’ storefronts but not on my usual stores who source through Sager. The 17-inch Gsync ones are there though, and I’m pretty sure some European stores have the -G listed. Coming soon? Maybe the demand isn’t there?

 

Hey guys, disassembling the laptop to add the second M2 drive, and noticed 2 of the screws have what seem to be a keyboard icon on one and the same icon plus “something else” on the other.

1) do these need to come off too?
2) what do the icons represent they’re for?

 

Gigabyte announced an X-Rite Pantone calibrated version of the same OLED panel. 125% sRGB instead of 258%.

 

I am so mad. Ordered my laptop from Bestware yesterday and now they're offering 200 euros off it today.

 

Those screws hold the keyboard, and do need to come out. There might also be 2 screws underneath the keyboard on the top side. Sometimes they're put in, sometimes not.

 

Thanks! Figured it out when the bottom wouldn't pull apart No screws needed to come out from the top art though, so at least this model does not seem to have them (MC 1520). Still curious about what the second icon represents...

On a side note, just installed the Crucial P1 SSD, and didn't know if installing their software etc. was needed for the trim functions, etc. (Which also led me to think if the WD that comes inside also doe snot have any software...)

An last curiosity, new SSD was identified by windows as disk *0*, and the other pre-installed one as disk *1*. I'd have thought it would be the other way around...

 

The 8356 is a good deal but for now we have the OLED models for now.

 

So, my new loaded PB51RF-G arrived today!

Smashed out a quick Firestrike run: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/36465813?
For the time being, the SSD has been transplanted directly from my P650RP6-G which is Windows 10 Enterprise LTSC v1809. Thus performance will not be as good as a proper clean install would be and I haven't tried any overclocking yet (just reset Throttlestop and put in a -110mv undervolt).

I've got a 1TB 970 EVO Plus on the way at which point I'll do a clean install of Windows 10 Enterprise v1903 and install Pop OS onto the old SSD.

Here's a list of my thoughts in no particular order:

• Performance is obviously off the bloody planet. The poor 7700K in my desktop is put to absolute shame.
  
• The RTX2070 out of the box pulls a very respectable 19K GPU score in Firestrike (link above).
• The fans are actually almost dead silent at idle which is pleasantly surprising. However, you REALLY need to have good CPU clock profiles and management because...
  
• When the fans do spin up, they're quite LOUD. That being said, I can only barely hear them (at 100%) if I have headphones on at a reasonable volume. Using better headphones or in-ears you wouldn't hear them at all.
• The fan curves are much more aggressive than previous generations. The curves seem to target CPU and GPU temps of 80C so they will hit 100% quite easily.
  
• 144hz screen on a laptop is the greatest thing I've been waiting for (I've used high refresh on my desktop for years). 60hz is just broken compare to this, I'll never go back!
• Haven't tested Thunderbolt3 yet or the DisplayPort options.
• Per-Key lighting is nice, but I ended up just setting it to flat blue at low-ish brightness so that it's not distracting.

I do have one problem though:
This may be due to using a transplanted Windows Install, but for the life of me I cannot get the Audio Jack Detection to work properly with a 4-pole head-set.

On standard Windows drivers, I get the popup asking whether a headset or headphones are plugged in and regardless of what's selected it only plays out of the speakers.
On Realtek drivers (direct from Clevo), The headset detection works, but only the headphones have output. The Microphone doesn't work at all and only picks up the integrated mic.

It's not a huge deal since I use a USB DAC anyway (which works great with my 4-pole headset). But the onboard DAC is actually pretty good and would free up the USB port if I could get it working properly.

 

Worth checking that out first on a clean install with the factory audio drivers.

 

Anyone have experience with Gentech? Planning on ordering from them this weekend. Not sure which TIM combo to get but otherwise I think I'm set on a build with 2x8GB RAM, 500GB 970 EVO, 1TB HDD for $1750 which is the best deal out of all the resellers.

 

They are a partner of ours and good people, they would be your first port of call for an issue but if something happens we can help too.

 

My laptop comes in 5 days, I can't wait!

 

Longest ever 5 days

 

Just ordered mine from GenTech. Paid extra for minimal backlight bleed. Hope it was worth it.

 

I should have mine next week as well. My current N870HK1 suffered water damage on the mobo and is on death row so I will be transplanting the OS, SSD's and RAM from it. I have a gaming desktop so I don't think the extra expense of the mobile RTX is worth it but I am excited about that 4K OLED panel as it is a reasonable price Here is my config:

 

Ouch, hopefully no more spillage!

 

Got the PowerSpec 1520... Trying to figure out if the whole "I don't want to pay attention to Windows power settings, just the ones in the stupid control center app" thing is a feature or a bug, because even having it on performance will make the freaking laptop screen go dark after approx 15 minutes, plugged in. I have it set in Windows to not pull any of that crap and not even do anything when the lid closes. But not the control center, whooboy. Heaven forbid it be customizable and not just some settings we plebes aren't able to set ourselves. If I want to have per-key LED control, it seems I have to make nice with this horrid software as the replacement LED software from Obsidian PC operates on 3 zones only it seems. I've got their Control Station software installed but the power options there also don't seem to override the omniscient overlord of Control Center 3.0. Grrrrr.

 

You don't need all the Clevo software. The different components are module, so just uninstall it, and install only the parts you want from the windows store. I suggest led, and keyboard hotkeys only. The fan control is also baked into the hotkeys app. This way you'll have the led control, fn key functionality and the OSD displays, and fan speed control, without all the other useless/crap parts of the software.

 

The Clevo software does let you up the TDP in max performance mode which is nice.

 

Yeah but that's baked in with the hotkeys app, as well as the fan profiles. Just right click on the Taskbar icon and the performance profiles are there. Or just using the hotkeys works too, fn 1 and 3, for fans and TDP profile respectively.

 

A few questions related to upgrading the SSD.

1.) Does the laptop come with a m.2 screw?
2.) I've no experience with taking apart laptops whatsoever. What do I need besides a screwdriver set and anti-static strap?
3.) I'm planning on getting the 2TB HP EX950 stick for the 2nd empty PCIe slot. The first slot has a stock 500GB PCIe drive. Can I still put a SATA SSD in the 2nd slot or is it NVMe only if the 1st slot was also?
4.) Do I need to move anything around if the 2.5" bay has an HDD?

5.) Off-topic question. I'm looking to get an external monitor. Is 1440p/144Hz overkill for a laptop RTX 2070? QHD benchmarks don't seem that great but I'd like to upgrade from my current 1080P/60Hz monitor.

Thanks for help

 

1) It should come come with both M.2 screws and a riser screw for both.
2) A toothpick, or something similar, to pop the keyboard (there are 2 screws underneath that may or may not be installed), as well as something like a guitar pick helps alot with separating the bottom cover without warping or damaging anything. I personally wouldn't bother without either of those, but others in this thread have done it with just the screw driver set.

4) The HDD being occupied wont impact anything else.

5) 1440p is the sweetspot between resolution and fps imo. Probably wont be anywhere near 144 in most games though.

 

To Answer your questions:

1. The M.2 screws are usually left in the motherboard for your use. Alternatively the builder/reseller should supply you with a small bag containing the M.2 screws
2. You'll need 2 sizes of phillips head (as the M.2 and HDD screws are different sizes to the main chassis screws).
   • For the PB5 series you need to undo ALL of the bottom panel screws.
     
   • Then pop the keyboard out through the rear-most keyboard screw hole (you can use a very thin jeweler screw-driver for this or a toothpick).
     
   • Now you need to pop the keyboard off and there are 2 more screws (under the keyboard) which need to be un-done.
     
   • You don't need to remove the keyboard ribbon cables if you're careful, but it's much easier to work with if you do remove the keyboard entirely.
   • Then you can remove the bottom panel. Looking at it upside down, with the exhaust vents to the top, start from the top right then move around in a clockwise direction un-clipping it as you go.
3. Both M.2 slots support NVME. Only slot 1 supports SATA devices. Slot 1 should be the one closest to the 2.5" HDD slot.
4. No. Everything is in the clear.
5. 1440p/144hz/165hz is perfect. Make sure you also buy a mini-DP -> DP cable. HDMI is not cannot carry G-Sync. The RTX 2060 and 2070 can well and truly hit 144fps in games where you really care about speed (CS:GO, LoL, Dota2, Overwatch etc).

 

2070 can push fps above 60 with very high/near max graphics settings. You won't get 144 fps from triple A title games even with 2080 unless graphics are set to medium or lower).

Also, 144Hz monitor is worth buying just from daily use - you will notice the cursor moves a lot more smooth. I noticed this immediately when switching from 60hz to 144hz.

 

Just the smoothness on the desktop is nice yes, FPS is going to depend on settings.

 

Anyone know if they type C DPs support GSYNC?

 

Yes, direct dgpu connected so g-sync.

 

Neither of those issues keeps it from prematurely shutting down the screen if I walk away for, say, 15 minutes even with the screen open. And it will sometimes come back after moving the mouse, sometimes not. It seems to be more of an issue honestly if I AFK while using the 2070. Maybe there are even more power settings conflicting in the GeForce drivers/experience I need to check... So many things trying to control functionality, it makes my head spin.

 

Thanks for the responses. A few more off topic questions about SSDs.

1. I'm looking to get a 2TB nvme. The Sabrent Rocket is only $260 on Amazon but it's apparently a mydigitalssd bpx pro? Is it worth shelling out $40 more for a Corsair MP510 or HP EX950? My main concern is performance at near full capacity. Not considering Samsungs due to price.

2. Does the 2.5" bay accept only SATA drives?

3. Is there anything tricky I should know about for putting the laptop back together? I have liquid metal on CPU/GPU, that shouldn't be a problem when flipping the laptop around right?

4. Is it worth it to invest in an SSD heatsink?

 

If you intend to hammer the drive, fill it and work it at capacity the Samsung is worth considering for endurance.

There is no other interface for mobile 2.5" other than SATA.

No sad heatsink needed normally.

 

Yeah, happy heatsinks are better

 

Auto correct likes to have fun sometimes but you are right, happy little heatsinks that are snugly fit do much better

 

Not all plastic. Metal A and C surfaces, plastic B and D.

 

Why do I imagine Bob Ross going on about happy little heatsinks...

 

Forgot to ask the most important question. Can I run a double sided SSD or no? The ones I'm looking at, 2TB MP510 and 2TB EX950 are all double sided I think.

 

Bob Ross is a happy little everything.

 

XoticPC confirmed it's single sided only

Edit: Could I actually get a definitive answer on this? Donald@HIDevolution said it should be fine.

 

Travelling atm but the height of the supporting post in a picture and the m.2 slot will tell you. If matches our other systems like the desktop ones then double sided is supported.

 

Anyone know where i can find a full, detailed dismantling guide / video? I cant seem to get this back cover off or take off the keyboard

EDIT: nvm, I wasnt using a thin enough pick to take off the keyboard

 

The ifixit kit is great if you intend to fiddle around a fair bit.

 

The PB5/7xx service manuals should be on Prema's site, also.