*** Official Clevo PB5xExx(-G) Owner's Lounge ***

We sell the sn750 1tb with it but I believe that is still single sided. I do think it will fit just fine but most stores you would order it from would have a decent returns policy just in case.

 

Anyone here got liquid metal for their laptop? How well does it improve thermals?

EDIT: No idea why I asked this when I had some spare liquid metal xD
Temps dropped to 77C max using automatic fans during CB R20 run. Score increased by 80 points while being quieter. At max fans, it reaches a max of 73C. Pretty god damn nice if I do say so myself.

 

This review unit has LM.

 

So long as the contact is good LM is always going to improve temps about the same amount.

 

Decided to mess with the fan curve since CC3.0 has a somewhat decent custom option. Temps now reach a max of 90C on the CPU but it's now a simple hum when under load

 

Yea WD Black is single sided up to 2TB along with Samsung. Is the whole problem whether or not there's enough height? The actual thickness between single vs. double is less than 1mm. I'm more worried about whether the components underneath will be damaged by the heat or close contact. There is no information in the manual either. Not sure why the answer is hard to find when double sided M.2 sticks are much cheaper than the default Samsung/WD Black options offered by resellers.

 

It's all about physical space yes. Heat should not be an issue as the PCB of the motherboard can dissipate heat.

 

I repasted my powerspec 1520 with mastergel maker and undervolted to .125 and wasn’t getting thermal throttling but was being power limit throttled to 3.6-3.7ghz with cool temps. I unlocked the tdp and can now pull 3.9 on all cores but thermal throttles. Should I keep it at 3.6-3.7 or undervolt more and keep the 3.9ghz? How would this impact performance?

 

Only you can answer that question. Nice job on your testing so far!

How you use your laptop and preferred tolerance of things will be different than someone else’s.

 

Depends. If you're playing a lot of GPU bound games, I'd take the lower temps since the heatpipes are connected so you wont affect the GPU as much. If you're doing more CPU bound tasks, take the higher boost clocks

 

Most games will want gpu headroom over 300mhz cpu.

 

What do you mean by 300mhz of over head?

 

Who said over head? You said you upped the CPU by 300mhz but that took away thermal headroom for the GPU.

 

I was talking about cpu the gpu is not having issue keeping cool with nothing over 70 degrees but I haven’t oc it or messed with the curve editor which I will be doing today. Sorry I didn’t mention it in the original post

 

Indeed. On mine my "gaming" profile is set to underclock to 3.6ghz on all cores. None of the single-threaded games need more than that per core and the more modern CPU-heavy games (Assassins Creed Origins/Odyssey and Watchdogs 1/2) make use of all cores much better than older games.

That way there's more headroom for the GPU to stretch it's legs.

 

Guys, what model is the new 240hz panel?

Is it IPS or TN panel?

https://www.xoticpc.com/sager-np8453-clevo-pb51rf.html = 15.6” (40 cm)˜ Full HD (1920x1080) 240Hz, Wide View Angle Display, 72% NTSC Display, Matte Finished

https://www.gentechpc.com/product-p/sager-np8353.htm = 15.6" (40 cm)˜ 1920x1080 TN @240Hz, 72% NTSC


Edit: It is, presumably, an "IPS" panel - FHD 240hz - Sharp LQ156M1JW03 (SHP14C5)

The same one used by Blade, Aero, etc.

 

It’s a Sharp IGZO IPS panel I believe.

 

Very tasty is the technical term

 

Ah, 240Hz! I knew something was coming to replace the 144Hz model. Does this have G-sync? I see it mentioned in the promo material but not listed in any spec section.


EDIT: I don’t think we can even hit 240 in most games, and the idea of a G-Sync PB51 really grew on me. From what I read online this new setup is ideal for competitive things. Still puzzled why resellers in other countries got the 144/synced version while this was skipped in the US. Not to sound entitled or anything, but these laptops are pretty expensive and if we’re dropping this much on a machine we might as well be more picky with our options

 

Personally, I'm more interested in the 4k 120hz screens. Would love to have it so I could run games at 1080p 120hz and then crank it to 4K in stuff like videos. Haven't seen a 15" version of it yet there's 17" ones...

Still very true though

 

Cant have fans and active heatsinks on a mobile display like the desktop ones

 

Dunno if I should put this here but it involves this chassis so oh well

I'm trying to use surround with this laptop and 2 external DIY monitors. I had to use an EDID override to make all the screens act the same since the laptop display was always greyed out inititally in the surround config (I'm using the external display's .inf settings, the plus side is that my standard refresh rate is now 165hz ). Now the problem is surround itself. It will only allow me to select 2 screens instead of all 3. I can't choose the 1x3 topology and am stuck with either 1x2 or 2x1. The laptop display is still greyed out but is always selected meaning I can still choose any one of the two external displays to use in surround. So anyone know how to make surround allow for 3 monitors?
On Windows 10 Pro 1903, GPU drivers is 430.86

 

What screens are you using?

 

Screens are AUO B156HAN08.0
Both external displays and coincidentally, my laptop display use that panel.

 

How are you connecting them?

 

Well one is my actual laptop display
The other two are connected to LCD Controller Boards using displayports to type C cables.

 

Can you show your control panel when viewing them? I assume they are all the same resolution/bit depth/refresh rate?

 

Yeah they're all the same resolution, bit depth and refresh rate. I used the EDID override to make sure of that.
I have no idea how some of the other screen got in this screen snip xD

 

Halp halp halp!
I wanted to do a fresh install of Windows since my laptop kept crashing on boot up for some reason (Throttlestop had to be manually activated so it wasnt my undervolts) so I tried to install it from USB. Problem is that the USB keeps disconnecting when trying to reinstall it so it never works! I keep getting an error saying it needs drivers! The USB works fine in other devices.

HELP!

 

Okay looks like using a different USB drive is allowing it to reinstall. All is not lost!

 

Only two displays are selected at the bottom left of the menu.

 

Yes and it wont let me select a third.

 

You might need to do a video showing how you are playing with the options.

 

The battery is detachable is there any way to get an additional battery say if I want to take 2 full battery’s to class and leave the charger at home. Or is there any external battery chargers that would work with the 230 watt charger.

 

Should be. If you ask your reseller(or other resellers of the same chassis), they may sell you another battery. I'm not aware of any external chargers but you could just connect them to the laptop and charge it that way

 

@Meaker@Sager Can you verify the whether or not the 240hz version of the PB51RF (NP8453) has the switchable graphics, or is just Hybrid like the OLED one? Also G-Sync compatible?

 

You reminded me I needed to check on that.

 

I'd like to know that too! @Ashlander @Meaker@Sager @GenTechPC @Prostar Computer

Also, @GenTechPC What brand is the Slot 1 500GB PCIe NVMe SSD 4 lanes? What brand is the 1TB 7200rpm 2.5-inch 9.5mm 32MB SATA III 6Gb/s in the 2.5" Slot 1? Is it a SSD?

 

The default SSD can be one of many OEMs drives, can't guarantee a specific brand. I asked when I ordered from GenTech, speaking of which it's been nearly a month and my laptop still hasn't shipped...

 

Is hybrid only a problem with workloads that don’t play well with it? I assume they exist but I don't actually know what the impact is like.
G-Gsync would be a game changer although I don’t think it would have it without being marketed as such. All the -G models had it in the name and plastered all over the spec sheets. Hopefully it is though, I wouldn’t even mind running it at closer to 144Hz for G-Sync, just because I know that not everything is going to hit even close to 240Hz

 

SSDs do not have spindle speeds

Switchable graphics like the original. OLED is the only one locked to optimus only.

 

The RTX gpus have a massive performance drop with optimus/hybrid. The difference on my PB51EF between hybrid and dedicated is usually about 15-20%, with no other changes. Was about the same with the 2070 Scar II I tried for a few weeks in Feb, though that was optimus only, so the difference was between optimus, and the dedicated output through HDMI. I'm not sure if the Turing GTX suffer the same drop, but it's pretty well known I think with the RTX chips.

I don't even care about G-Sync specifically, I just want to be able to switch to dedicated. I know some people would like the OLED for content creation and stuff, but since I don't need that, hybrid only in anything is an immediate deal-breaker, personally.

That's great to hear.

 

hi! I am planning to purchase this laptop. It will be the barebone, without an ssd or ram.

Any advice?

any particular order to install the drivers? or anything i should be aware of?

I saw that you purchased it like that!

Thank you

 

How did you measure this? Is this with VSync on? I've been running some benchmarks (mostly Time Spy and Fire Strike) and any difference seems to be very small. (Fire Strike seems to run about 200pts more, actually). That is on a PB70EF-G, but I would think it would be very similar.

 

I bought it without storage but I did buy it with RAM so I sorta know what to do

If you have storage already with an OS on it already, I'd suggest you reinstall it fresh. I didn't and it eventually messed up my Windows 10 and so I was forced to reinstall it fresh. My games and OS drive are separate so I could keep my game drive intact while reinstalling Windows.

 

Like UberMedic said, make sure you do a fresh install. Also make sure you have a product key for windows (or have one associated with your account that will transfer over). After you got Windows installed, it's generally advised to installed the chipset driver and any BIOS updates first, then video/audio, then the rest. I could be wrong, but I don't the order is really all the important these days. One thing to make sure of is to install the original Nvidia drivers from the manufacturer first, before updating to the most recent versions. I had some issues with low performance in optimus unless I installed the release version of the driver then updated. Then, all I do is open up device manager, go down the list of drivers/updates on the clevo/reseller site, and compare the driver versions with the versions currently installed and update as necessary. The fingerprint and card reader drivers will need to be installed, as they won't be automatically installed with windows.

I would also suggest forgoing the Control Center 3 app, and downloading only the Keyboard LEDs, and fn hotkeys apps from the Microsoft store (search for clevo). The CC3 download will install all of them from the Microsoft store, but most of it is useless tbh. Maybe get the GPU overclocking as well, if you just want basic OCing and you're not going to use afterburner or something else. This is entirely up to you and what you want to install though, just installing the whole package wont hurt anything either.

The actual in-game difference is pretty big, depending on the games. FH4 for example got average fps in the 70s, in dedicated it gets in the mid 90s to low 100s, sometimes even as high as 120 (though that's pretty rare and dependent on location, etc, but the equivalent highest in hybrid seems to be around mid 80s). Same effect in SoTTR, Hitman, and about every other game I tried. The 2070 SCAR II I tested had almost identical results as this, between it's optimus and the HDMI output (dedicated).

 

Edit: I figured out how to convert the drive to GPT, but I'd still like to know why UEFI was enabled when the BIOS showed differently.

Can anyone tell me how I can boot in legacy mode? Is it just turning off UEFI? I keep getting this error:



even with fast boot disabled and the USB formatted to MBR. Extremely confused:

 

Benchmarks:

Temps after Firestrike:


Is the Cinebench score a little low? What else can I try with Throttlestop/Afterburner?

-125 UV with increased IccMax:

 

Cant see the images but likely an error message not quite getting the issue right.

 

I'm running into two issues. When I switch the power profile in Clevo Control Center it would reset to Entertainment as soon as click "back" or close CCC. I can't find a way to switch the profile via keyboard. Pressing Fn + ESC does nothing.

The TPL option in Throttlestop seems to only work if the "Disable and Lock Turbo Power Limits" box is checked. Otherwise the 45W/78W limits apply no matter what the TPLs are set to. When I checked that option, after some tests, my CPU got out of whack and would permanently stick to 3.9Ghz no matter the utilization. Had to reinstall Windows after that. Is this the only way to bypass PL1 besides CCC?

With a -145 mV core and -125 cache UV I've been able to get 1250/2700 scores for Cinebench R15/R20. But PL1 would kick in about a third of the way into R20 and at the end of R15. Should the CPU be throttling during these benchmarks?