*** Official Clevo Sager NP9155 / P750TM-G / P751TM-G Owner's Lounge! ***

It throttled pretty bad, but with consistency according to that review...and that on stock clocks.

They don't spell it out and choose their wordings wisely to make it subtle and only compare it to systems with equal or less scores (that's why you want a system reviewed before comparable others and not after), so it may not be that obvious to the reader.

But when you e.g. take a brief look at the constant 3.7Ghz CPU and 1480Mhz GPU in The Whitcher (mildest of their combined load tests) while they are only 57c & 67c cold you get the idea.

 

I see. I saw the consistent CPU performance and was thinking it wasn't throttling so badly, but CPU isn't being limited by power, but by thermals when it's by itself. Noob mistake. It throttled on combined tests because of the power adapter not supplying enough juice then? Would the dual adapters fix that so then it's thermally throttled instead?

Edit: I'm still confused. The power adapter seemed to supply plenty of juice during the FurMark and Prime95 load test as both CPU and GPU became thermally throttled at 90c and 86c at the same time. They also indicated that they could get the GPU to max clock in Witcher 3 if they manually OC it. So I'm still confused because if the adapter is the issue, why was it able to run on max potential speeds to become thermally throttled in another test. Maybe they just needed to manually OC both CPU and GPU? Would the computer have for sure performed at a higher clocks with a dual adapter in Witcher 3?

Sorry for all the questions, I'm just authenticly trying to learn how all of this works properly.

 

Yeah, I'm aware the thermals will be a big issue, that's why I'm going the route of a delidded, LM, sillicon lotteried CPU from HID. Ideally, it'll run cool enough to handle OC during gaming and I can fiddle with pushing the OC for benchmarks as well, but I don't expect consistent loads beyond about 4.5 GHz probably, will be hard to say until I try it through. It comes from HID OC'd to 4.9 ghz... I'm hoping that since the processor is lottery binned it'll run much cooler than the average 8700k.

The dream would be running PUBG gaming loads at 4.9 ghz, but now I'm worried one adapter might not be enough to power GPU and CPU, though PUBG never utilizes 100% of the CPU. Again, it could all be a pipe dream, but I'm pretty sure this will still outperform just about everything else out there under 8lbs.

My goal is to get the most power available under 8 lbs so I can still take it with me as I travel, etc. P870 is clearly better thermally, but I don't want the 2" 10lb chassis as I think that's just too big for my taste. I've done a 12lb six core Clevo 3930k in the past, and its just too thick to comfortably take with me everywhere and the increased thickness makes it difficult to type and game directly on the laptop anyway.

 

The AC Adapter doesn't matter, you could connect a 780W version and it would never be able to even make use of it on stock firmware. It limits the total combined power draw of CPU & GPU in addition to CPU and GPU standalone throttle. So that's what you can see in the combined load Witcher test.

(PremaMod models have these limits removed)

 

Oh, so it was the BIOS limiting the performance then? I ordered my p750 from HID with Prema bios already installed. So that won't be an issue. Will a single adapter still be enough juice for attempting to OC to 4.9 GHz while gaming with 1080 at full clocks? I realize thermals will still be an issue, but I'm also getting mine delidded, LM, with Sillicon Lottery binning to reduce heat, etc. Sorry for all the questions. Still learning and I appreciate the input.

 

If you fine-tune it properly it'll work fine with 330W...

 

Great thanks!

 

You'll saturate the cooling ability of this machine well before hitting the limits of the 330W power brick. You have to keep in mind that the thermal design is unchanged from the P75xDM2/DM3, which was originally designed to support up to 6700K/7700K and GTX 1070N 115W. The GTX 1080N is 190W, and Covfefe Flake despite similar nominal TDP as the older quad-cores draws 50% more power in real-world usage. The unified heatsink works great for CPU-only loads even when overclocked, but it has a tough time keeping the 1080 on stock voltage below throttling temp under full load. And if you push both CPU and GPU to the max at the same time, it reaches heat soak very quickly and thermal throttles on both. The P775TM1 has separated CPU and GPU heatsinks this gen, but it doesn't handle things any better than the P75xTM1, and has worse cooling under CPU-only load. The P870TM1 with the dual-GPU vapor chamber heatsink keeps a single 1080 very, very cool in comparison.

 

The 7 series also uses larger radiators to improve overall fin area.

 

The larger rad surface area on the P775TM1 doesn't seem to result in any meaningful improvement in thermals compared to the P75xTM1.

 

It will on combined loads, on single loads the effective area is larger on the combined heatsink.

 

Not from what I've seen in reviews and the owner's lounge, temps are hardly any better on the P775.

 

Gotcha. Thanks for explaining that. Most of the time I'll either be running mainly CPU loads with video renders or games that are primarily GPU with 50% CPU loads. None of the games I play utilize 100% on both. So maybe I can optimize it to get away with minimal throttling.

 

In that case, yeah you'll be just fine. With a -150mV or so undervolt on the GPU, you'll have basically no problem holding 1848+ MHz on the 1080 without hitting power or thermal limits. Especially since you're getting it from HID, who have good QA and put in the work to optimize thermals by most accounts.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHmyv3RnaT3MauMG_tLaeaVgMY4b2XQJk

 

I have no respect for Vanu scum!! DIE!!! xD LIVE FREE IN THE NC! XD Jk... jk...

I was actually rank #1 in my server when the game first came out. I have over 3k hours in PS2. I gotta say that's some really good performance in PS2, though I guess those fights weren't as insane as when the game first came out, and it probably has been optimized more now.

Nice playlist, what are you using to record gameplay? I'm guessing it reduces performance slightly for you? I'm curios!

 

Lol, I have 2.5k+ hours, and I play all factions.

Yeah that fight wasn't too big, about 48v48. But even in crazy 96+ vs. 96+ fights, performance is still really good, 120+ FPS nearly all the time:



I use ShadowPlay to record, the performance drop is very slight, only about 3%.

 

HI,
Anyone knows or has experiences that the B156HTN05.1 panel works in the p751tm1? It is also a 120hz gsync panel as the 5.2.
With msi16l1x (eurocom tornado f5) this 5.1 version has issues with bios, balck screen, brightness problem. However clevo officialy puts this in few models.... on ebay europe i cannot find 5.2 for a long time only 5.1..

Thanks a lot for your help!

 

what ? Thats sounds like a skewed review if I ever heard one, who runs the witcher on on their latest clevo gaming laptop and yet with no OC on the CPU, and it should be mentioned 67C COLD is not cold really.... I haven't read full reviews on laptops in ages, nowadays I just skim through these things, but maybe we should bring our points to the comment sections in those reviews (or do they need pending mod to accept comments on those pages ?)

 

Anyone have a solution to the weird sound level (and possibly many other stuff I have yet to know) issue after updating to Windows 10 v.1803? I am at 1 right now, but it sounds like it's at 50 or something.

I've noticed that the default app, Sound Blaster Connect, doesn't detect the audio device anymore. It asks me to "

lease check [my] connection."

EDIT: So, I somehow found an old link for Clevo support on Realtek through Prema's website. Sound is fixed, but I'm now paranoid of whatever stuff I have yet to fix/retweak because of the update.

 

Sadly, Have been seeing a large uptick in *weird* issues once that latest windows update came out. Most tend to be fairly simple fixes with updating drivers, etc. But scary nonetheless

 

Usually the issues are fairly apparent like that and don't tend to be lurking time bombs.

 

Okay, heres an update. My Evoc 15 clevo P750 was delayed because HID couldn't get their hands on a lotteried 8700k because the new i7-8086k chips we're coming out, but HID has just released their new info and pricing on these P750. Check it out here: http://www.hidevolution.com/evoc-clevo-p750tm1-g-custom-built-gaming-laptop.html

Now I'm getting a $120 discount compared to before, getting a 8086k processor instead, and it'll be overclocked to 5.1 GHz out of the box, compared to 4.9 GHz out of the box. I don't know if it'll be stable at those speeds, seems a bit fast and hot, but we'll see I guess. I'm excited to check it out. I'll probably lower the clocks to 4.9 for daily use after I get it, but we'll see.

One question I have for those out there who tweaked for better battery life. What have you found to be the best CPU/GPU settings for max battery life and how much extra battery life did you manage to get? Worth the hassle?

 

seeing as the 8086K are basically higher binned 8700K cpus, itll probably run at 5.1 at the same temps and voltages as an 8700K at 4.9 GHz

 

It is a high clock.... I'll be interested to see your results.

 

I had ordered a 8700k lottery binned to the same ghz rating as the 8086k, so I would have thought it would be able to match performance/temps, unless the 8086k is just that much better. It's just that HID is OCing higher out of the box. Can't wait to check it out!

Also, here's the 8086k lottery binning stats, which were really interesting. https://fuse.wikichip.org/news/1412/core-i7-8086k-overclockability-silicon-lottery-stats/

Of course, those OC results are with desktop setups with better cooling than a HID p750, so take them with a grain of salt.

 

Is there a screen available on this model capable to be color calibrated 100% sRGB color space?

 

At default the 8700k performs the same as the 8086k, it's just that stricter binning that helps keep voltage and temps down when tweaked.

 

Hello mate. 05.2 will work fine. I bought my P751 from CEG (now Clevo Systems) with 120 Hz matte panel + G-Sync and my panel is AUO B156HTN05.2. But if you want to use G-Sync, you need to have at least Intel I5 series. I got I3 8100 and G-Sync is disabled. Thanks Clevo!

 

Same for me, only i5+, and no ES CPUs.(

 

yeah its not about Clevo but rather Nvidia. they tend to be pretty strict in licensing every single component in a system for GStink

 

Which means you have to pay to certify each config.

 

I am highly interested in this too. I have tried to get it to run less than 3.7 Ghz but have not had much luck. Using throttlestop on every other CPU I have had I could play around with the % and get it to run at 1.5, 2.0. 2,5 etc but here it doesn't seem to work the same way. I asked about it in the TS thread but seems as though no one else understood the issue or cared enough to try. I am assuming that not many of us must use/create a "low power/quiet/longer battery life" profile on these desktop CPU machines.

 

Make sure you are in a balanced power mode. If you've entered extreme settings in the bios then tone them down.

 

My CPU automatically gets throttled on battery and doesn't ever exceed 2GHz or 45W, so I didn't need to do any tweaking at all.

 

I have tried the power modes but not messed with the BIOS much, not sure exactly where HID has the settings. I guess I will dig into it more and try to find the setting(s) you are talking about.

That might be the case for me too, I guess I don't use battery much, my real concern is more about keeping temps lowest with minimal fan usage (also keeping quiet during low loads like just surfing). I mentioned battery because if/when I ever do want to use battery I would also like it to go longer. Normally I setup an 800mhz profile for just that purpose.

 

I gotcha. I guess that just depends on how much battery life you want to get. I frequently take my laptop to Starbucks to just write/edit word docs and play music with Spotify. I'm curious what I could get if I got the processor dialed down as much as possible, undervolted, lowered clocks, etc...

 

You could squeeze more battery life by disabling cores and Hyper-Threading in the unlocked BIOS as well as enabling Speed Shift and setting EPP to something like 255 in ThrottleStop (which basically locks your CPU at 800MHz), setting refresh rate to 60Hz or enabling Nvidia Display Power Saving technology on battery in the Windows power profile, lowering brightness, etc. Honestly, I'm not sure how much gimping your system to that degree actually helps. The biggest draw is still the dGPU, which you can't do anything about.

 

sounds good. and correct that dgpu is the biggest power hog here. one could try and lock lowest possible clocks on both gpu core and memory, as well as lowering gpu core voltage as much as possible via msi afterburner...

 

You can use Nvidia inspector to lock 2d clocks too.

 

absolutely! thats actually what im doing

Sent from my Xiaomi Mi Max 2 (Oxygen) using Tapatalk

 

You can also use MDPS to make the GPU never come out of P8.

 

whats mdps?


Sent from my Xiaomi Mi Max 2 (Oxygen) using Tapatalk

 

Multi-Display Power Saver in Nvidia Inspector.

 

One of my long posts - readers beware. My first time posting on the Sager and Clevo forum, although I've been active at times on the Razer and Alienware forums.

I have had one of these machines (an NP9155), purchased directly from Sager, for almost a week now. I admit I was worried at first due to the strong opinions on this and other forums that it does not have adequate cooling capacity as shipped, and decent temps are only achievable with sophisticated techniques like delidding and the use of LM pastes. Perhaps I've misinterpreted what others are saying, and such steps are only considered necessary for overclocking, but I've gotten the impression that some of you believe these steps are necessary even for acceptable thermals while gaming on this machine at factory clocks and voltages.

My experience with this machine so far, after quite a bit of experimentation and tweaking of game settings, graphics driver settings, and, eventually, use of frame-limiting software, have convinced me of the following:

1) For gaming at factory voltages and clocks, very acceptable temps are achievable without any extreme hardware mods or re-pasting, assuming there is no severe problem with the machine's factory build or prep. I am at this point very satisfied with my tradeoffs to achieve playable framerates/manageable thermals, but others may feel my choices make no sense on such a high-end laptop. So be it.

2) The machine does have some things about it that are annoying, which I haven't seen mentioned anywhere online.

I have the Sager NP9155 with 144hz G-Sync monitor, Intel i7 8086k CPU, NVidia GTX 1080 GPU, 32gigs of 3000mhz RAM, 1 TB Samsung 970 Pro NVME system drive, and a SATA-style 1 TB Samsung 850 EVO that I moved from an external case to an internal drive bay to function as auxiliary storage and backup.

My biggest challenges so far have been as follows:

1) My machine shipped with a corrupted Windows Start tile database, resulting in it being impossible to customize and save changes to the Windows Start menu, even with a completely fresh account. The only solution was to reinstall Windows and all drivers and completely set up the machine myself. Even though a Windows refresh with user file removal fixed this particular issue, after the refresh I had problems with the machine crashing after awakening from Sleep or Hibernation, and a secondary Samsung SATA SSD performed far below its rated potential. These problems could not be fixed with any amount of troubleshooting I was capable of doing. After a complete system drive wipe and reinstall from a fresh Windows install image and installation of Sager-provided drivers, these problems are all now resolved. BTW, Sager provided a physical DVD with the required hardware drivers for a Notebook that *doesn't have an optical drive* - just why, Sager? First thing I did was image this thing to an ISO file, but it should have been provided on a flash drive, for goodness sake.

2) The portion of the power cord that runs between the 330-watt power brick and the back of the machine is ludicrously too short to have the power brick stay on the floor next to my chair with the notebook in my lap while I sit in the chair, without the cord constantly being pulled loose from the back of the machine due to tension on the cord. This is absolutely comically bad design - did no one try using the machine when reclined in a chair while trying to keep the machine properly connected to the power brick on the floor directly beside the chair?

I have had to place a small step-stool next to my chair to place the power brick on, in order to raise it enough to put a bit more slack in the power cord. Even so, the power cord is coming loose from the back of the machine several times a day due to it being too short, and the connection port on the computer not holding the cord plug in with enough tension to prevent it accidentally slipping out if I shift a bit in the chair. (It happened once while I was writing this post.)

3) Three games in particular have been challenging to set up to run acceptably (for different reasons) on this machine.

a) GTA V when run with Vsync off and the framerate unlocked (through the game's own graphics settings) runs very unevenly, ping-ponging from very high framerates (120fps plus) to very low ones (in the 30s) in grassy areas (if you have the default Ultra graphics options selected). The result is an experience that is difficult to enjoy for two reasons: 1) The framerate swings are extremely offputting and distracting, 2) In well-optimized parts of the map where the framerate can ramp up to very high framerates, the machine's cooling system is quickly overwhelmed, and once even resulted in a sudden system shutdown. Steps had to be taken to control framerates at both the high and the low ends. To deal with the high end, I simply re-enabled the game's built-in framerate limiter (60fps). To deal with the low end, I changed all "Ultra" settings to "Very High" and cut all antialiasing multipliers in half (16x becomes 8x, etc.) I also disabled depth-of-field effects, but that's mainly because I don't like the effect - I don't think it really impacts framerates much. At this point, I have the game running a pretty solid 60fps (drops momentarily into low 50's in suboptimal map areas, but quickly recovers, and it isn't distracting to play). The "Very High" graphics settings (as opposed to "Ultra" ones) and lower antialiasing settings are literally visually undetectable, as far as I can personally see. Max temps during extended play sessions are in the high-60's to low-70's for CPU (Intel i7 8086K model) and mid-70's for the GPU.

b) Fallout4 has some unfortunate behaviors on high-refresh monitors that I did not know about prior to purchase of this machine. It seems that there are a couple of problems. Firstly, if you do not unlock the game's framerate with an INI-file tweak, the game's internal FPS limiter chooses a fraction of the monitor's refresh rate as a framerate lock. For 144hz monitors, you get a 48fps lock, which is, of course, unacceptable. Going to the other supported refresh rate (60hz) in the NVidia Control Panel results in a 20fps lock (even though a true native 60hz refresh monitor gets a 60fps lock - weird). This is unimaginably worse, of course, so not useful at all. Now it is entirely possible to completely remove the game's internal framerate lock by placing the proper entry into the game's INI file. However, doing so on a 144hz refresh monitor causes the game's physics engine to misbehave in unacceptable ways as the framerate rises. At 100fps-plus, the lockpicking mechanic is virtually impossible to use, and the player and NPC characters move at unrealistic and game-breaking speeds during battles and when the player character engages the Sprint mechanic. The only solution I have found so far is to install the NVidia Inspector application and use the profile customizer to limit the number of frames per second at the driver level to just over 60fps. At this point, running the game with its internal framerate lock disabled results in smooth 60fps play with no undesirable and game-breaking physics. To eliminate the built-in framerate lock in Fallout4, I placed the entry "iPresentInterval=0" in the Display sections of both fallout4.ini and fallout4prefs.ini. Temps with these settings after an hour of gameplay: CPU cores max out in the high-60's with averages in the high 50's, GPU maxes out in the low 70's.

c) Skyrim SE - this should have been an easy game to run on this machine, due to its older technology and much lower-resolution textures, but getting it to run at an acceptable framerate, without extremely distracting stutters every minute or so or game-breaking physics problems and runaway CPU/GPU usage due to unnecessarily high framerates, was surprisingly time-consuming. It seems the game has some unique Vsync-related issues that cause stuttering problems when trying to run on high-refresh monitors, even at Bethesda's factory-default game settings limiting framerate to 60fps and enforcing Vsync. Of course, disabling the game's internal Vsync settings and unlocking its framerate are possible with INI file tweaks, but these result in game-breaking physics and runaway processor and GPU loads, since extremely high-framerates can be achieved (200fps plus). The eventual combination of settings that fixed all my issues are as follows:

* Lock the framerate with the INI file tweak (place "bLockFramerate=1 in the "Display" section of skyrim.ini, or just omit this line from the file entirely).
* Disable the game's built-in vertical sync feature (place "iVSyncPresentInterval=0" in the "Display" section of skyrimprefs.ini.
(Note: these two settings, seemingly in conflict, are both necessary to disable the game's built-in Vsync, which is the source of the stuttering on high-refresh monitors, apparently.)
* As in Fallout4 above, use NVidia Inspector's profile inspector to establish a profile limiting framerate to no more than slightly above 60fps. If you're willing to put up with crazy game physics, this number could be raised to balance your tolerance for glitchy physics and runaway processor and GPU usage to support the higher framerates. I find the game pleasurable at a rock-solid 60fps. Temps are amazing with these settings, with the fans barely audible and CPU temps maxing out in the mid 50's and GPU temps in the low 60's.

- The machine's various sound hardware is not capable, in my opinion, of producing acceptable sound from the built-in speakers. The first problem is that without using Sager's provided SoundBlaster software for modifying the sound-levels emitted by the speakers, it is impossible to obtain a volume level capable of being heard over the slightest background noises, much less the noise of the machine's fans as they ramp up to cool the internal components during gameplay. Unfortunately, using the provided SoundBlaster sound-profile software has two drawbacks. Firstly, to obtain listenable volumes, the sound-profiles produce disturbing artifacts for any sounds outside a fairly narrow midrange of frequencies - low and high frequencies are unbearably "artifacty". Very distracting. Secondly, I believe this software is unstable, eventually resulting in degraded sounds being produced, followed shortly by games crashing to the desktop. Uninstalling the software resulted in stable gameplay without crashing, but then we are back to unusably low volume levels during gaming. The solution I finally arrived at involved forcing a non-Sager-provided Realtek driver containing the Dolby Digital Plus Advanced Audio software to install on my machine, despite the fact that the driver was not signed for my hardware. This is only achievable by temporarily disabling Windows' ability to enforce driver signing, so that was a bit of trouble. However, with the Dolby software installed, I now have amazing volume levels, and superb sound-profile presets for both listening to music and playing games. I cannot recommend this software and installation guide enough for this particular machine. It's like I removed the factory speakers and sound hardware and replaced them with a much higher quality setup. The difference is literally night-and-day. The guide, complete with download links for the necessary files, is here (I have no association whatsoever with the linked website or author of the blog, BTW):

http://trickstertech.blogspot.com/2016/12/how-to-install-dolby-digital-audio-on.html

4) The backlight bleed on my sample is unacceptable. I could post a picture if you want to see it, but for now suffice to say it's worse than any I've seen posted as examples of unacceptable light bleed. I can probably live with it, and I probably will, because it doesn't affect the machine's reliability or greatly detract from my use-cases, none of which involve using the machine with a black background or watching movies or playing games which would attract your attention to the imperfections, but this is something that I don't think should have been shipped to a customer paying full price at this cost tier.

If you made it this far, thanks so much for reading. BTW, I don't hate this machine - far from it - but it was definitely more challenging to set up for my intended use than I had expected it to be.

And, finally, something not really related, as far as I can tell, to the machine or its engineering, but still of concern to me:

5) I've seen this one mentioned elsewhere, and it doesn't seem to be specific to the 9155 or even to any specific brand of computer, but the Samsung 970 Pro NVME SSD has me concerned about a temperature sensor reading.

The drive reports *two* temperature readings, as detected by HWInfo. Apparently there are no publicly-available details on what exactly the second sensor is reporting the temperature *of* (the author of HWInfo doesn't seem to know), but I've read elsewhere that the first is for the drive's memory and that possibly the second is for the controller circuitry, although there isn't anything definitive about that.

The problem, and my concern, is that under certain conditions, such as sustained transfers to and from the drive, the second temperature reading can go so high that I'm afraid something might wind up getting smoked. While the first reading (temp of the drive's memory?) stays well below 80 at all times - usually in the 50's to low 70's under load, the second sensor shows increasing temperatures the longer the drive activity lasts, and can peak above 100C for really long copy operations. I've seen as high as 103C before something (fans? the drive's firmware limiting drive performance? I don't know.) changes and the temp drops back to the high 90's (still far too high, IMO). I think this change is accompanied by slightly lower drive performance, but I'd have a hard time showing a truly direct correlation to prove it. The drive's S.M.A.R.T. statistics, by the way, don't seem to be concerned about the drive having experienced such high temperatures.

In any case, I don't know whether to be concerned enough to complain (I don't even really know for sure what the reading is *for*, so asking for an exchange or a machine return would seem a bit unjustifiable on this basis alone). Anyway, just putting this info here for anyone that's interested.

Peace, and thanks for reading.

 

Good write up.

I use mine in my recliner too but never noticed the cord being too short, I do have a step stool close by though as that's where I put the lapdesk when I stand up anyway so I have to keep it close by. I have also noticed on every machine that uses this larger 4 pin DIN plug that it does not lock in place in any way. I wish there was a clickable spot where it snapped in place. It was way worse on systems that used the dual 330w bricks plugged into the splitter. I usually velcro it to the cooling pad leg so that there is almost zero pressure on the cord itself and it really doesn't fall off that way anymore.

I run Fallout 4 but by default it runs at 72fps, so maybe I initially had to choose the "half refresh" setting in the nvidia control panel, I just don't remember. I was aware of this since Bethesda games physics are linked to FPS and many times can end up causing problems when way above 60. 72 seems fine and I haven't noticed anything off.

I only use SATA ssd's due to me preferring capacity over speed, and they must run cooler and I've never experience any heating even over large backup operations reading/writing for hours at a time.

 

Hey, thanks so much for that suggestion! I use a padded lapdesk with this machine, and was able to use the included Velcro strip attached to the power cord to secure the cord against the back of the lapdesk with enough cord slack between the Velcro attach point and the DIN plug that I don't think I'll have this problem anymore! If we were on Reddit, I'd gild your response for helpfulness, but I guess you'll have to settle for a like. Much appreciated!

 

@TJCacher does your RAM actually run at 3000MHz? What sticks are those?

 

According to CPU-Z, it is clocked slightly above 1496mhz. As I understand it DDR runs at double this clock rate, but I'm not a RAM expert. Unless I'm mistaken about how it works, I think this is approximately the correct clock speed to obtain 3000mhz performance from the memory.

I swear I remember the Sager website advertising this as G-Skill branded, but it doesn't show that way on my order confirmation, and their website currently shows the upgrade with no branding listed at all. HWInfo shows the manufacturer of the two sticks as a company called "Apacer Technology" which I've never even heard of. I understand G-Skill doesn't manufacture their own memory anyway, and source from a variety of manufacturers.

 

Yeah it's running at 3000MHz then. Can you take screenshots of your Memory and SPD tabs in CPU-Z?

 

Yes, here are some screenshots. Took me longer to make because I was curious why CPU-Z is labeling my memory sticks as DDR4-2400, so I also used HWInfo's summary screen to show that HWInfo shows the same sticks as "DDR4-3003 / PC4-24000 DDR4 SDRAM SO-DIMM" which matches the description in my order confirmation from Sager.

Out of curiosity, I went ahead and fired up Aida64 Extreme, and took a look at its SPD report, so I've included that screenshot, as I think the additional information it shows is pretty interesting.

Here are the screenshots:

CPU-Z Memory Tab:



CPU-Z SPD Tab (Slot 1) (Note: Slot 3 is identical, so not uploaded here):


HWInfo Summary (Slot 0) (Note: Slot 2 summary is identical, so not uploaded here):


Aida64 Extreme (SPD Report for DIMM 1) (note: report for DIMM 3 is identical, so not uploaded here):


@yrekabakery: Would be curious as to your take on Aida64's analysis of the Memory Module's memory speed description as DDR4-2400, versus it's "Extreme Memory Profile" section's memory speed description being DDR4-3000. Are there some kind of shenanigans going on WRT a memory module's rated speed versus how it is being packaged?

Also interesting that Aida64 shows the module manufacturer as Apacer, but the DRAM manufacturer as Samsung. So Apacer makes the modules and buys memory from Samsung to populate the module?

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