*** Official Clevo Sager NP9155 / P750TM-G / P751TM-G Owner's Lounge! ***

It's not as simple as just looking at the GPU name anymore that's true.

 

Yeah, i see it many times.. :/ when in bench, it can easliy reach 70° in 3 minutes...
There's no solution to cool it?

 

3 minutes at 3.5GB/sec.

How many 630GB transfers do you intend on doing?

 

At 2.0GB/sec maximum, for me.
Otherwise yeah you're not wrong, but... xD in idle it can reach itself 50-60° without any transfer, so idk

 

Both my Samsungs overheat playing WoW with its streaming textures. I kept wondering why my system would stutter and choke at certain points while the wife's would not with a WD Black NVMe. I thought it was something else
so I kept HWinfo open in the background and played for a few hours and they were pushing 90 on the controller.

On my laptop I expect it (My 960 Pro overheats), but on my desktop it does the same.

It is actually what led me to start exploring M.2 overheating issues in general and start testing various cooling remedies and retesting various backup NVMe drives I have in my laptop to see which ones overheat. Only the Samsungs were hitting 90+ in CrystalDisk

Even a basic heatsink like this will bring it back down out of the super hot zone:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product..._dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&fpw=alm

I used this till my FTW Z390 died and I switched to a Strix which has a built in heatsink for M.2 Drives.

I have a thermal pad on my 960 in my laptop but it still overheats under sustained loads.

 

There are heatsinks for such SSDs.

 

If you have enough space between and above the M.2 drives, these are totally awesome. I am using two of them on one system, but the M.2 bays are too close together on my other system and the screws heads have contact interference. If the ports were staggered or about 2mm further apart a pair would work on both systems.

But, I love that they bolt together with thermal pads on both sides of the drive instead of using clips or rubber bands.

They are very heavy, large and industrial-grade... overkill, just the way I like everything.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G823MLD

 

These for instance fit only in the slot nearby sata drives but not in the other one, as far as I can remember.

I made custom ones which have very slim sides (less than 0.5mm) to avoid any changes in the chassis.

 

Here are a few tests I ran before when comparing no heatsink vs passive heatsink vs active heatsink to show you how much even passive can make a difference

I tested this passive heatsink: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product..._dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&fpw=alm

And this active heatsink: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product..._dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&fpw=alm

notice the 4k R/W difference when Samsung's heat up:

 

I have this ; https://www.amazon.com/Aluminium-Di...ary-dissipateur-refroidissement/dp/B07K9MF25F

its good for it, or?

 

If you have less space then a metal lining on the case and a thermal pad would work as well.

 

I have some like that and they work just fine. I use them on the system that has M.2 slots that are too close together for the screw heads to have clearance.

 

Ive got the same on my two Samsung 970 Evos in the P775, they dropped the temp from 70-75 to around 50ish, so they are doing the job but that stupid Samsung Magican still saying sometimes temps to high , i just ignore it.

 

Interesting that it throttles that way, I can confirm that even in low 60s the 4k score tanks. I only have a thermalpad under my 970 pro, might be worth getting a heatsink.

 

Could be a poor message and more a power throttle?

 

what temps should i see in a p751tm1-g , i9 9900k , and a gtx 1080 200w card , probley is sometimes my system while gaming lately will just shut off , and notice it is hot , a bit as well my gpu is hitting 87-90c , and cpu is hitting around 80c-85c give or take , any help ???

 

Shutoff is probably overheating VRM. Check the thermal pad contact between the MOSFETs and heatsink.

 

Also check the pads look ok, they can be re-used but should not crumble.

 

so question for many maybe you guys can help , i need to get a vapor chamber for my p870tm1-g system is there one???? like my p870dm3 has????

i have it configured with a gtx 1080 desktop currently , and a i9 9900k can i get a vapor camber and if so where? any help from any one would be great....

@Donald@zTecpc @Meaker@Sager @Mr. Fox

where can i get more pads what pades should i use for this one

@Spartan@HIDevolution any pointers on buying a vapor camber for a p870tm1

 

I use thermal grizzly pads.

 

This system will run hot if not undervolted and underclocked. You have to find the sweetspot.
Even with better pads and vapor chambers you will have a hard time keeping it cool enough.

 

Your best source for the vapor chamber is the vendor from which you purchased your P870TM-1.

Where are you located?

 

If anybody could offer a word of advice before I trigger my return -
P750TM1, with an i7-8700T and 1070.
Purchased barebones - Unit booted twice as configured, then no longer.
Booted once to BIOS, let it sit for maybe 10 minutes, then got my Win10 stick and got through the first round of OS install. After that reboot, nothing.

Processor tests OK in a desktop motherboard.
1070 tests A-OK in my P870DM and P870DM3 systems.

I've pulled the battery, reseated everything, double and triple checked the RAM.
FN+D reset, CMOS batt pulled, system left depleted and cold for hours.
I've sacrificed 2 goats and a chicken, but still nothing.

When the unit turns on, the keyboard lights up like the rainbow for about 10 seconds, then goes blue.
Display detects, but displays nothing, and disconnects about every 20-30 seconds.
Onboard LCD never turns on - No backlight, no picture.
Fans spin appropriately, and processor and GPU do warm up a bit.
Caplock does not respond.

I have a spare processor, a 1080 and a 2080, at the risk it cooks one, I don't want to swap known-good stuff for other known-good stuff. Any tips, tricks, or other animals I need to sacrifice?

 

Could be a VRM has gone on it, if you had a multimeter you could probe it.

 

You need a virgin giraffe and a depraved rhino to mate and then sacrifice their spawn.

On a serious note, It might be a thing you already did, but, have you tried botting with only one stick of RAM and in different slots.
I had similar issue when I first installed new memory and the training process wasn't happening.

 

@Meaker@Sager I do have a DMM, I just haven't removed the motherboard. What would cook the VRM, especially when only used at 35W? I had pads on it, and the stock heatsink attached.

@skandal I'll have to pull apart another laptop, but neither of the 2 DIMMs I had both systems running on seemed to matter to it. I have a new 8GB DDR4-3200 soDIMM and a giraffe I'll try out tomorrow.

 

Could be a bad part, the most likely time for a machine to fail is at the beginning or when older.

 

So more troubleshooting this wonderful Monday morning -

1st test - 9700KF and 1070, no batt or CMOS batt. 240W power. No POST.
2nd test - Same as above, FN+D held- This, for the first time, resulted in an image of the RESET popup. I was thrilled!!! This is NOT the first time I've tried this.
3rd test - CMOS battery put back in. No POST.
4th test - CMOS pulled, reset (press+hold power while unpowered). No POST.
5th test - CMOS batt and battery in - No POST.

On pressing and holding the power button, after test 5, the unit beeps at ~1Hz and keeps beeping, while blinking the power light. Never done this before, either! I let it do this to count them, went to 20, and then I just shut it down.

FN+D now has no effect, even repeating test 2 exactly. Am I losing my mind, @Meaker@Sager ??

 

Check the CPU socket, are the pins looking good?

 

@Meaker@Sager Pins look great, but there was a small dabble of thermal interface from the previous owner, cleaned on one edge. I don't see any problem. I appreciate your help, here - And previous problems

Laptop now does only 1 thing: Rainbow startup while holding FN+D, with or without main batt, power light goes amber and blinks and unit beeps loudly until it's turned off. Fans ramp up.

Pressing / holding FN+D has no effect, with / without main batt or CMOS batt has no effect, except when CMOS cleared (no batts, no AC, press+ hold power) on first powerup, power light blinks once, goes out, then the unit starts up like "normal" as above.

 

Do you have a close up picture of the socket and bottom of the CPU?

 

Here's 2 shots. Processor in question is a 9700KF and an 8700T - Both are just tested on an Asrock Z370 board, and work A-OK (re-tested today). I can post pictures of those if it's necessary.

The 8700T has the 2 taped pins, it's been modded for use on my P775DM and P870DM laptops.

Unless I'm missing something, the pins all look perfectly uniform, save for one along the bottom-right corner adjacent to the hand of the arm, but it doesn't appear to be out of line enough to cause an issue.

 

Does the 8700T boot without the tape?

 

@Meaker@Sager Absolutely: in the Z390 mATX board, and in my P775DM1, but I have not re-tested it without tape *since* installing it into my P775, which it was removed from to test this P751TM1 in question.

It has tested fine today in the Z370 mATX board, and my P775DM1 (modded), with the tape in place.

The i7-9700KF has no tape, and seems to function the exact same as the i7-8700T in the Z370 board and P751TM1. It has not been installed into any other system, yet.

 

Might have to look into sending it back then

 

It does look like you have thoroughly troubleshooted it, did you try booting it with another single stick of memory in different dimm slots?

 

@jc_denton Yeah, 3 different soDIMMs across all 4 slots. I've put hours into this :/ It's just so weird that it did turn on those couple times.

 

Hi guys, I just pulled the trigger on a P750Dm2. Is there any significant difference between the Dm2 and the TM besides the mobo? Also can I put a z370 in the barebone without any modification? Thanks.

 

TM also has updated heatsinks to support the GTX 1080 and RTX cards.

 

Can I use it in my dm2 with 1070?

 

You can use the GTX 1080 heatsink, but it’s not necessary as your 1070 is only 115W (1080 is 190W).

 

How abt the mobo? Can I replace it with a z370? The ports layout looks similar on both models, so I assume I can swap in.

 

You don’t need to change the mobo, just tape the pins on the CPU and update the BIOS.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...clevo-laptops-rtx-cards-now-supported.825558/

 

I once left mine alone for days If not a week. Without accu, cmos and ddr. Tried it again with one ddr and it took a while after turning it on again but suddenly it found its settings and booted. I was so glad it came to live again

I guess sometimes it needs a lot longer to loose all electric juice thats left

 

Removing both batteries and holding power for 30s should clear out anything left in the system, but sometimes strange things happen and system just works.

 

It can be static charges causing floating pins so giving it chance to leak away can also work.

 

i got the p775tm1-g with a i5 8400. i baught a i7 9700k ( waiting for arrival ) do i need to update the bios ? i updated the EC succesfull. But somehow i cant manage to update the bios...

 

When i changed my 8700k to 9900k i also updated the bios, i put the latest from clevo : 1.07.29. It went without problems. What bios did you try? U can find the latest here:

https://my.hidrive.com/share/yze8mg...CLEVO/P_Series/P7xx_Series/P7xxTMx/P7xxTM1(G)

 

@Cylix101 yeah i have that bios. I just dont know how to execute it. Ive tried in dos but it gives me some error and doesnt update it.

 

@Xguarded

Hi. I used the instructions from xmg but did the usb with rufus.
Here u can find also a pdf in English witb instructions.
https://download.schenker-tech.de/package/bios-update-via-efi-shell/