*** Official Clevo W230SS/Sager NP7338 Owner's Lounge ***

Getting the paste job just right can be very important on low pressure heatsinks, I usually aid spreading by pressing down on the core contact plate as I screw down to ensure the paste is properly spread.

 

I'm looking to buy a 13" gaming laptop, was interested in the Alienware 13, however, it being limited to only dual core ULV CPU's are a deal breaker. I have heard there are hinge issues around the bottom of the screen on the W230SS/SD and previous models. Does anyone know if this has been rectified by Clevo, or will there be a new model coming out soon which addresses this problem?

 

My model turned a year old recently, and zero issues with my hinges thus far. Is the issue a weakness in the hinge itself or it's action? Or does it affect the screen? My old Asus G72 hinges caused issues with the.. Ribbin? I think it is called? Cables for the screen, which resulted in flickering.

 

Has anyone tried this laptop with windows 10 yet? Will give it a whirl but I am not sure about driver support.

Cannot say I have had issues with the screen hinge - nor did I know about any.

 

It works quite decently - everything works as it should, and you don't even need the Hotkey app. The GPU, Optimus, trackpad, speakers work quite well, and the trackpad drivers are downloaded automatically by Windows update. It was slow, though - this is probably because I was running it off an external HDD.

I tried to take The Witcher 3 for a stint, and it did not work. To be specific, I could launch the game, scroll through the main menu, choose options, but when I chose a save game, it just got stuck at a black screen.

I also tried CoD: BO2 and got a consistent 60 FPS at max settings except AA set to 4x TXAA.

 

im ordering the w230sd version with 960m. would it be worth upgrading the screen to 3200x1800. initialy the upgrad was £129 but looking at the options to upgrade its now £81. is it worth it? i see notebook check running this gpu at 4k with settings that are quite taxing. i would lower somethings to gain more fps. its in building rigjht now so some quick ansers be very helpful.

kind thanks

 

Witcher 3 then... Playable? I'll admit the performance with "GTA V" "Project:CARS" and "Dying Light" has been stellar, but Witcher 3 spooks me for some reason (Partially because I know ZERO about overclocking and what-not, this thing is the exact same way Mythlogic sent it to me lol)

 

Of course, on Windows 8.1. Plays perfectly at 900p at 45-55 FPS on a mixture of medium, high and ultra settings (ultra only for textures and decals). It crashes frequently with an overclocked GPU.

 

Would there be any noticeable differences in the W230SS in terms of fan noise if I upgrade from a i5-4210M to a i7-4700MQ or i7-4800MQ? Or is it recommended to get say a i7-4702MQ for the best performance/noise ratio.

Thanks.

 

I had the same choice and changed my order from i5 to i7 because of this review:

and the authors comment:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/index.php?posts/9679329

I chose the i7-4710mq over the 4702 because of the price and because you can set a 37W TDP setting with throttlestop anyway. Using Prema BIOS you can even disable two cores to get an i5 out of it. Some games use the four cores. And more games supporting this will come in the future..

 

For my personal build Mythlogic told me right away I was chasing numbers with the 4810MQ, but I knew they would be hand building and would tune it well for me (plus I gave em' beer money lol). When I start a game I kick the fans to max speed right away, and match whatever cooling pad shes on to the noise level. BUT when browsing the web, multiple tabs open the fans run at a moderate speed fairly often, I'd say 60%-70% and once or twice every half hour or so a short burst of full speed (2-4 seconds).

 

Be aware that you can use XTU to modify clocks/TDP/voltages to get the CPU to match any noise/performance profile you like (but not much higher than stock, so 37W CPUs will limit your options), in XTU you can set up multiple profiles depending on what you want to do.

 

Got my W230SS in the mail today and have finished setting it up. Fresh install with Prema BIOS and XTU -70mv.

Anything else that you guys recommend?

 

Yes, play games and enjoy it

 

Just a quick update for those interested in the QHD+

I currently haven't bothered using the screen at native 3200x1800 with Windows scaling because the screen looks perfectly fine at 1920x1080.

Of course, it will look the sharpest at QHD+ but I find 1080p the perfect compromise without fonts being too blurry while keeping scale at 100%

People mention that it will scale the best at 1600x900, but I find the text significantly blurrier.

Another thing is that yellows have a green tint to it. I think a custom profile can fix that, but I will figure it out later.

 

Just got my W230SS and I have an issue with it, everything works as it should but the system won't boot while on battery. The power light and keyboard light come on for about 2 seconds then just turn off, if I plug it in it will do the same thing but then power it self on right after. If I leave it plugged in it boots fine, and if i remove the power cord while its powered on it runs fine from battery.... any ideas why it wont boot with just the battery?


EDIT: Figured it out, I am using premas bios mod and if I have the disable hyperthreading and active processor cores set to 3 it will refuse to boot on battery, as soon as i change those settings to default it works...

 

Maybe worth asking prema about having a quick look to see if there is an obvious bug.

 

Hey guys, I'm hunting for a laptop cooler pad for my w230, and I need the experts' opinions:

My options are:
Cooler Master U2 Plus
AVANTEK CP152 11"-15"
AVANTEK CP172 15"-17"

and the wild card
Opolar Vacuum Fan

The Cooler Master has movable fans, which can target the laptop's hot spots more effectively. The fans are 80mm each and run at 2000rpm.

The AVANTEK cooler pads vary in size, my question is the following: is getting a bigger, slower fan better than a smaller, faster fan? It's possible that the bigger fan pushes more air, but the vents of the laptop are smaller, possibly not taking full advantage of said airflow. Is this correct?

As for the Opolar Vacuum Fan, I'll probably not get that anyway, just curious about the design and its effectiveness. Do you think the silicon shroud is big enough to cover the the exhaust holes of the w230?

Budget is not very important, performance is top priority.

Thanks in advance guys!

 

Prop up the back of the machine slightly and you should be golden.

 

my WQHD Screen got broken. Can i swap it and put in an FHD easily? Will the WQHD cable connector directly fit into a FHD panel?
i thought about this screen (Item ID: 435363):
http://www.laptopscreen.com/English/model/Clevo/W230SS/?set_currency=EUR

maybe you guys can help me out....

 

The WQHD (and QHD) cables have 40pin connector at the lcd end, the FHD is 30pin, so no; won't fit. Easiest option is to get a matching cable (6-43-W2301-010-K).

Alternative is a 40pin -> 30pin adapter (standard 0.5mm pitch). Problem with an adapter is that they've switched signals around in a rather illogical manner, so it'd be easier to get the cheapest (full-fledged) 30pin eDP cable and solder the individual wires to the equivalent counterpart of the wqhd/qhd cable:

Spoiler: N133HSE-EA1, LQ133T1JW02 and W230SS - pin configuration

If you're ordering from laptopscreen (and want a matte), be aware that they'll (hopefully) ship any one of the three matte options from this list:

• N133HSE-EA1; deeper blacks, higher contrast, poor gamut (original panel)
• N133HSE-EA3; lower blacks, less contrast, almost 100% sRGB (newer version of EA1)
• N133HSE-E21; unknown, couldn't find reviews

 

Note that soldering the cables requires some skill and equipment to do a decent job. The easiest option is to just get a replacement panel.

 

Thank you guys ... Clevo germany will sell me the 30pin cable thanks you all

 

Just be careful as you tear down the machine to make the replacement Take your time and don't use too much force.

 

One question. They are not sure which exact variant will be sent from the UK warehouse. Will i get a picture with any variant? Thats most important for me. Not the gamut or best color or black level or something like that.

I work in the IT - have repaired the old thinkpads and for HP and Fujitsu as technican (about 7 years ago)... The Clevo is much easier to repair...

 

Will be fine, laptopscreen seems to know their business.

One thing to consider though; WQHD doesn't have screws to hold it in place, it uses double-sided tape instead (to make it thinner ... ). The FHD will have screw holes, but can't remember whether my WQHD had something to affix them to. Might want to have some tape at the ready, just in case ... or take a look beforehand, of course. Ah, and screws if the lid does have a bracket; these won't be shipped with the panel.

Dry run first; open lid slightly and rotate laptop 90° to the left (or right). Removing bottom cover it'll have the display connector exposed; can test panel like that including Fn+brightness. Then, if it's ok, the cable passes through a gap at the back, but you need to remove 4-5 screws that hold the top cover / palmrest. Lift up cover and it'll be possible to push cable through. Careful when positioning cable and replacing bottom cover; one of the cover's plastic retaining clips hooks quite close to the cable and can snag it (that's how my factory-placed cable was damaged).

 

Thanks for the tips !!
I have had a look after disassambling the LCD plastic frame:
my WQHD is hold in place by 4 screws....
so i should be fine with :-D

one more question:
my Laptop had an accident - someone stepped on my laptop bag - thats why the screen now is broken. When looking for the Display connector i found this dent in the Heatpipe - i cannot remember if its new (caused by the accident) or always has been there. Can someone please have a quick look under the bottom Cover to verify if its normal or not?
Here is a picture how it looks like:

Thanks for the help...

 

So long as the cooling is ok then it's fine, even if they did dent it slightly. You can get dents during the manufacturing of the pipe too as the metal is shaped.

 

I will check the temps as soon as i have access to an external screen or get the display repaired... Or maybe i am able to blind Start teamviewer....

 

Best of luck and let us know if you run into any other issues.

 

Has anybody had issues with the W230SX CPU heatsink not contacting properly?

I'm beginning to see some weird temperatures from my unit. The CPU will skyrocket to 90-95 degrees even with an underclock. The main reason I think it's a contact issue is the fan at full (FN+1) blows cold air. Much cooler than I'd expect if it was transferring 90 degree heat correctly.

I've re-pasted twice in the past year and haven't had issues until the last few months (using GELID GC extreme). The GPU side is still great (doesn't even hit 70 under load).

It seems like the screws are bottoming out on the sockets for the CPU mount so I might see if I can rig some washers in to get some more clamping pressure.

 

When you remove the heatsink the the TIM look like it has been spread properly from adaquate contact?

 

You could try submersing the contact plates in hot water to see if the heat pipes heat up quickly. What load are you testing it under?

 

I had the opposite issue of you, my laptop GPU will spike up to above 80 while the CPU stays sup 70. I ended up bending the arms that you screw down the GPU heatsink with.

 

Ended up grabbing some 3M 1080 Carbon Fiber Vinyl from a local automotive shop and spent the past couple of hours wrapping the palm rest of my W230SS.

The biggest concern I had with this laptop was the palm rest fading, but it's now nicely protected. I wanted to wrap the LCD bezel too, but ran out of vinyl.

It's tough work! I threw out a good chunk of the vinyl since my hand-eye coordination sucks (poorly cut lines with an x-acto knife) and I didn't plan well enough. I thought I could wrap the entire palm rest with just one piece, but it was too complicated for me.

It ain't as perfect as it ought to be, but it was a good learning experience and definitely cheaper doing it myself.

 

I've re-pasted multiple times over the life of it and get good spread. After noticing this, I did check. Given the temperature of the exhaust air was quite cool, I was very careful to check the contact plate and pasting to ensure it was perfect.

This is testing with the CPU burner included with FurMark with only 2 threads. Using Cinebench R15 (or Furmark 8 threads) will pin it to 96-98 degrees which is normal, but the score is 576 and seems to just be bouncing of the thermal limit. Idle temps are also pretty garbage at 60 degrees. Most notably, I've lost the fanless dead-idle capability (and it's the middle of winter here so ambient temps are low). Fans go straight to first level on idle and even a simple video or opening application will put it up to 75 degrees or so.

The CPU side is held with a single plate. The only mounting pressure is the springs that are captive on the screws. Unfortunately, that also means washers are out of the question as there's no way to remove the screws.

 

i could access my W230SS via Teamviewer (blind start) and have checked my Temps. They are ok in idle and under load. So it seems the cooling system is working as intended.... and the dent is only cosmetically.

 

@Stooj, it is entirely possible that your heatsink itself has failed, i.e. the internal sintering does not conduct away enough heat. I experienced the exact problem that you're facing, last year. I sent it in for repair and the technicians simply swapped out the heatsink and repasted ICD. Worked wonders and idle temps are 45 degrees C. Consider changing the heatsink assembly, usually works.

This is one of Clevo's idiosyncrasies that I don't want to see. Their laptops are wonderful but their quality control has much room for improvement...

 

Cool then you don't need to worry about it.

 

I've contacted the reseller here and they're tee-ing it up for me. Unfortunate thing, is this happened pretty much the week after the warranty expired. They might still pass it through under warranty for me though given the proximity to the warranty period.

Seems weird that it would fail though. While I understand how it could theoretically do so, it's pretty much a closed system with the only variable being heat (maybe poor source materials expanding/contracting beyond spec? who knows).

 

Also you have physical knocks and jolting of laptops.

 

thank you for your tips - i have replaced the new panel and its working fine now.
The clip near the cable was tricky - thank you t456 for this info - for sure i had damaged the new cable if i have had no info about that damn clip.....

and you were right the WQHD was taped only - not screwed. But the Screws were in place as spare. So i could mount the new panel with them. Maybe it was because i was one of the first persons in Europe who recieved the W230SS with a WQHD panel. I think MYSN did change it from 1080p to WHQD right before they delivered the laptop to me and just put the screws in place as spare.

 

Guys I want to use an ASUS charger, will a 120w such as this be okay with it?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Asus-K55V...109?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e860e8bc5

Output:
19V 6.32A
Interface:
5.5*2.5mm

 

Looks fine granted the connector is the same.

 

Yes the clevo has the connector 2,5mm (inside) and 5,5mm (outside).
+ has to be on the inner Pin !!!

19,5V would be perfect - but the 19V from the ASUS is not too far away....

 

Some models are 19V actually as standard, but half a volt either way is never going to be an issue.

 

[QUOTE =“rlandor，邮编：9773324，会员：637615”]普里马，我想大家都承认你是最真棒花花公子。我公司竭诚与意见同意！你只要让我很快乐; 全视网膜QHD +石英OSX上W230SS！你是最棒的！

信息：设置DVMT到128后，我只需要修补/System/Library/Frameworks/IOKit.Framework/Versions/A/IOKit。由于我安装了正确的补丁没有包含在pixelclock修复脚本尚未组合补丁我用下面的命令手动：

Code:

须藤perl的-i.bak -pe'$ =前QR“\ X0F \ X85 \ x9D \ X03 \ X00 \ X00”S; S / $前/ \ xE9 \ X84 \ X03 \ X00 \ X00 \ X90 / G'/系统/库/框架/ IOKit.framework /版本/ A /由于IOKit
sudo的触摸/系统/图书馆/扩展
须藤协同设计-f -s - /System/Library/Frameworks/IOKit.framework/Versions/A/IOKit
[/ CODE]

要使用协同设计，你需要安装所以一定要确保有互联网Xcode的扩展。在这样做之前我为了引导图形移动/ S / L / E / AppleIntelHD *，* AppleIntelSNB和AppleIntelFramebuffer暂时转移到另一个地方。然后我执行的补丁，从恢复/ S / L / E /的kext文件到原来的位置并重新启动。
然后它的工作。

哦，别忘了修改/ EFI / CLOVER的config.plist。作为启动参数，您需要nv_disable = 1跳过加载NVIDIA驱动程序。

您还需要在这config.plist KEXT补丁：
[HTML]

<快译通>
    <键>注释</键>
    <字符串>启用为128MB帧缓存阿祖尔0x0a2e0008 </字符串>
    <键>查找</键>
    <资料>
    CAAuCgEDAwMAAAAE
    </资料>
    <键>名称</键>
    <字符串> AppleIntelFramebufferAzul </字符串>
    <键>替换</键>
    <资料>
    CAAuCgEDAwMAAAAI
    </资料>
</字典>
[/ HTML]

还有这个：
[HTML] <键>图形</键>
<快译通>
    <键>注入</键>
    <快译通>
    <键> ATI </键>
    <假/>
    <键>英特尔</键>
    <真/>
    <键> NVIDIA </键>
    <假/>
</字典>
<键> InjectEDID </键>
<假/>
<键> IG-平台-ID </键>
<字符串> 0x0a2e0008 </字符串> [/ HTML]

睡眠仍然没有工作，但很可能都与事端别人。我会按照SRSR333的指针，看看接下来会发生什么：D

多谢!!! 并希望其他人将能够使用这些信息来把自己的蓝天在hackintoshes。三重启动，赢8.1，Hackintosch和Linux ：D。最好的三个世界！

顺便说一句我告诉你，屏幕是惊人的？我认为它甚至看起来比真实的交易（在OSX）更好。

：HI2：

更新：
有时小的损坏都可见，选择菜单项出现损坏有紫色和绿色的线，有时图标被破坏。小问题，不是很烦人。[/ QUOTE]



嗨，[B][SIZE=4]rlandor＆博[/SIZE][/B]

请你告诉我如何设置DVMT至1.28亿与w230ss（W230SS_33_32_QHD_PM_v1.1 ）

我尝试过，但失败了，你能给我一些建议吗？

 

Hi，rlandor & Perma

would you please tell me how to set DVMT to 128m with w230ss（W230SS_33_32_QHD_PM_v1.1）

i tried,but failed，can you give me some advice？

 

Does anyone know which LCD panel exactly aligns with the screw holes for the W230SS? The Sharp panel?

The QHD+ panel was attached using double sided tape, and the screw holes for my replacement FHD panel doesn't align either.

 

BIOS no work?