*** Official Clevo W230SS/Sager NP7338 Owner's Lounge ***

Great bios, but I can not find how to set DVMT options

 

I just replaced the sharp WQHD because it was broken and it was taped only. My ChiMei replacement N133HSE-EA1 rev. C1 from Laptopscreen fits perfectly. I could mount it with the screws....

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Hmm.. I did get the EA3 version of the FHD panel, so maybe that's why then.

 

hi guys, running windows 10 here, everything runs fine except when i plug the earphones, the sound is distorted. I'd like to try to reinstall latest sound drivers, can someone tell me the model of our sound card please?

 

sorry am new here
i can not download attached files
cloud anyone download the attached flies
http://forum.techinferno.com/attachments/clevo/15615d1437821538-w230ss_33_32_qhd_pm_v1.1_dvmt.rar
and email for me？thankyou so march
[email protected]

 

Myes, need 5 posts for that. Here you go:
http://www.filedropper.com/w230ss3332qhdpmv11dvmt

VIA VT1802S, see VIA's driver page (try the 12S or 02P). Don't expect too much ... 10 seems a bit iffy as of yet, driver-wise.

 

Most people should wait a month or two before upgrading I think.

 

Thankyou so much
it is working

 

When that happens, is the laptop at an incline? Unfortunately the heatpipes are not made with sintered copper wick and they are not great when not laying flat. I can get the CPU to nearly 99C underclocked if I tilt the laptop no more than 20 degrees forwards. The reason this happens is due to the geometry of the heatpipes, the evaporator (the part on top of the CPU) has to sit at a lower level than the condenser (the part that is in front of the fan). When you tilt the laptop towards you (like when sitting on the couch or laying in bed), the evaporator sits higher than the condenser due to the bend that the heatpipes have. This results in the working fluid (in this case, de-ionised water) to evaporate but not return back to the CPU for cooling. Hence the massive temperatures you see with the fan blowing cold air (since heat transfer is greatly impaired). There is no need to re-paste or do anything else, I have tried everything there is to try with regards to this matter, it is simply the way the heatpipes are positioned.

 

This is when sitting flat on a desk unfortunately. Tilting it backwards or forwards doesn't seem to have all that much of an impact. Tilting back seems slightly better (2-3 degrees?), but this may simply be due to allowing the intake to suck in more air (and not be constricted by the desk).

I'll put it through a bunch of tests on angles to see what happens. Unfortunately I also have to test at 2.6ghz max as leaving it at default clocks causes it to bounce of the thermal throttle (and somewhat invalidating any results there).

 

I am having a slight issue.

I took my laptop with me while traveling internationally (I hate doing it because I always seem to break my laptop somehow).
Anyways, I think I knocked the display cable loose because now when I open or close the laptop, or just move the display while its open, I get tons of jittery lines on the screen.
I tried to tear the laptop down to where I could really get a good look at both ends of the display cable, but I can't figure out how to get the top and bottom sections of the laptop to separate completely. I found the clips in the battery area, but it still would not lift completely up - it felt like there was another clip in the heat sink grille area.

Anyone have a disassembly guide by chance?

 

No need to remove top cover; only remove bottom cover and you'll see the cable's mb end (near heatpipe bend). For the lcd end; remove front bezel (clips only) and lift out panel (screws or tape).

 

Thanks for the response!
I never got as far as the LCD last time - and I already reseated the MoBo end of the display cable with no improvement.

What is the starting point for the front bezel clips? I just tried to go in from the bottom edge, sides. and the top edge of the actual LCD (under the webcam). It seems really well attached and there is so much display flex that I am afraid of cracking the screen.

 

Start at bottom, near the hinges; it's strongest there. Use plastic wedge or small screwdriver at the outermost edge of the display lid, don't use those near the lcd itself. And yes, bit flimsy, but that's usually so. If a section is difficult; resume at other side. Something that helps is to pull a bit on the part that's free, that is; if bottom left is free, pull on that section in the direction/plane of the bezel, so not away from the screen. That 'stretches' it a bit, keeping the curvature of the bend minimised.

Hope that description's not clear as mud ...

Err ... and you shouldn't have display flex at all, only the plastic bezel should warp a bit, hopefully?

 

I have this laptop, and didn't upgrade the wifi card, so I am stuck with the Intel 2230, can someone recommend me a dual band card that would work in this laptop that would do a better job? Thanks

 

I have a 7260 AC Intel card and no problems at all..... Great card for a good price
My Router is an Asus RT-AC66U

 

Are you having issues with the current card? The basic ones should be fine for most people.

 

Got a lil confession here guys!

my laptop is a w230st with an SS motherboard seemingly works fine on the same windows setup (although my Wifi card keeps randomly disconnecting)

seems like a get another hour of battery life

anyone tried windows 10 on this pc?

 

There might be some feedback from the preview, but give it some time to see how the current stable/official release does.

 

This past week, I have been getting a lot of system instability when trying to use the 860M on my laptop with Optimus. I hadn't updated any drivers for a while, so I updated both the Nvidia and Intel graphics drivers, but that doesn't seem to help.

When I try to run an application which uses the dedicated GPU, and it fails to start, about 2/3 of the time I either get a display driver crash that Windows recovers from, or 1/3 of the time I get a blue screen "VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE."

Anyone else getting these problems? Could this be because of a recent Windows Update? The only other thing I have done is changed the thermal paste on the CPU and GPU about 2 weeks ago. I used Noctua NT-H1. Could that somehow affect the GPU?

 

What are the GPU temperatures like?

 

Just letting you guys know Windows10 seems to work fine on the W230SS. Running Win10 x64 Enterprise without issues. FYI I'm on a 3200x1800 Screen.

Some notes:
-Installed Nvidia Win10 driver (available on geforce.com)
-Installed VIA Audio driver for Win8.1 (otherwise the jack/speaker switching doesn't seem to work. Same bug appears in Win8.1)
-Intel Management Engine drivers (to get rid of random PCI communication device, non-critical).
-Installed HIPM/DIPM hack to fix Crucial M500 mSATA SSD heat issues (same as in WIn7/8/8.1)
-Everything else installed automatically.
-Intel GPU now exposes a "Custom Resolution" tab but doesn't allow me to create any actual new resolutions which is weird (or a bug). Hoping this might lead to being able to run 75hz+ which would be great for gaming.
-Windows Search seems to bug out every now and then (killing the Search process fixes that).
-Scaling issues still exist like in 8.1. If it didn't work right in 8.1 then it's the same in 10 (e.g. Battle.net client is still super tiny).

 

I just checked with HWMonitor. The laptop was idling for a while with HWMonitor reporting 43 C, then after running Furmark for a few minutes it reached 77 C. Nothing too concerning, I think. The other thing I noticed is that if I launch a program using the Nvidia GPU right after the laptop starts up or resumes from standby, I get a driver crash and/or BSOD. But if Windows recovers, then I can kill the original process and start new programs using the GPU without a problem. This makes me think there is a problem with the GPU powering up.

I've had this custom resolutions page available in 8.1 since I first started using the W230SS, but it is quite useless for the main display, because it will only let you create resolutions with a 40 or 60Hz refresh rate, otherwise it will say display bandwidth exceeded regardless of whether you create a resolution that uses less bandwidth than 1080p 60Hz. I was hoping to be able to create a 24 or 48Hz mode for watching movies, but no such luck. I read somewhere that the Intel drivers only allow you to select what refresh rates the display claims to support, rather than being able to force a refresh rate and hope it works like AMD and Nvidia do.

What is the impedance on your headphones? I have some earbuds that are 16 ohm@1KHz, and they do what you are describing - human voices are especially muted. But I also have a headset with a built in amplifier (thus high impedance) and those sound fine.
I have found a quick fix, however. Plug the problematic headphones into a headphone splitter and plug the headphone splitter into the laptop's headphone jack. Then, take a 3.5mm male-male cable and plug the other side of the splitter into the laptop's microphone jack, and voila, sound is no longer muffled.

 

Windows 10 pro here, I had problems with my ethernet, it was continuously showing after some minutes "limited", causing the wifi to come up. I changed the driver to the old clevo one, which still works fine. Fun part is that my desktop has one of those killer ethernet controllers. Not a single problem since the update.

Edit, seems that this was cause by the option "Auto disable Gigabit". Disabled that in the device properties (advanced) and no more problems

Win 10 is a very good OS so far...

 

how is the battery with Windows 10?

 

Have you guys noticed any ingame performance difference after upgrading to WIN10?

btw, those who has switched to win10, did you do a clean install or an upgrade via Windows Update?

 

I played a ~4h session Titanfall yesterday. And the FPS was similar to Win 8.1. (1600x900 all set to High with 60 FPS - 860m OC +200MHz on core)
I chose the way via "upgrade". Did this to convert my Win8.1 serial number to Win10 but i upgraded with a USB stick (created from the downloadable .iso files) and not via windows update.

I will do a clean install when i can find some time to do this...

 

Andi, did the steam games remain on the local storage or you had to redownload them after upgrade?

 

Popping in this thread to say that I upgraded to Windows 10 and my touchpad driver no longer works. Anyone else?

 

I may need to send my laptop in for repair, but I have the prema BIOS mod installed. I found the stock BIOS files on the Prema Mod website, but there is only one version for W230SS, yet I thought there was supposed to be a separate version for the FHD and QHD screens? How do I know I am going to get the correct one?

 

Stock bios doesn't have that distinction. Prema's stock is the ' Style Note' splash screen, mind that not all resellers ship with that bios. Some use their own logo, for instance.

 

I have all game data (steam and originalen) installed on a second partition. So it is still there....

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First Revision of Prema Mod was seperateley. Later builds were merged together to only one build.

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Had the same. Uninstalled the driver and did search again for drivers (automatically) after the second Installation mine was working fine.

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Weird, I never had the option.

Performance seems a tiny bit better, but that could also be caused by the new NV driver. Here's my Firestrike results:
W10: http://www.3dmark.com/fs/5548599
W8.1: http://www.3dmark.com/fs/4336048

API Test: http://www.3dmark.com/aot/50209
This shows at least the theoretical (best case scenario) benefits to DX12 and increased draw-call ability.

I did a clean install. I keep my profiles fairly bare and easily restorable. My Win8.1 install was getting a bit bloated anyway.

 

Do you know where I can get a stock BIOS for the Sager NP7338 as sold by Xotic PC?

Or will it be okay to send it in like that, and will Xotic PC honor the warranty?

 

Don't know, but they peruse these forums, so ... ask anonymously .

Sager doesn't list bioses, unfortunately, just search this thread for Xotic or Sager owners and send them a pm. Hopefully a few are still on the original bios or made a backup (good lesson). Can't help you; mine's from a different reseller (with a ' flash=void' policy, btw ).

 

Ok, I got the files from Sager. It comes with the system BIOS and EC, but not the VBIOS. Coming from Prema mod, am I fine installing this together with the VBIOS found on Prema's stock BIOSes page?

 

Yes, safest option (in case they check vbios too). Easiest would be Prema's stock and replace the EC (ECW2xSS.02) and bios (W230SS.38) with the Sager versions.

Did you find out whether Xotic/Sager voids warranty for bios flashing?

 

In the email I got from Sager with the BIOSes, it said that they would not take responsibility if the computer fails to start up after flashing done by the end user.

 

Flashing does have a small risk always but it's not massive. However yes messing with the firmware is not something that sager supports.

 

Hello,

I've had the Sager np7338 for about a year (wonderful laptop) and I am now ready to upgrade the screen. It came with the standard 1920x1080 screen. I am looking for a screen that has a high contrast ratio so that I can do some photography work with it. What are your recommendations for a drop in replacement screen and the best place to purchase? Thanks in advance.

 

Can you confirm the model number of your current display?

 

There was a QHD screen available for just a short time. Can't find the model number though, but if you can dig around enough for it and find one that would be a great option.

 

Heavens, no ! The LTN133YI01-L01 has very limited gamut, the opposite of what you want for photography. For QHD, see the Dell XPS 13-9343 (infinity display). Only problem is that Dell uses shorthand for the panel nrs., so it's unclear which actual panel it is. Searching Sharp+IGZO etc. doesn't narrow it down; it's unlisted as of yet (too new, perhaps). Could order Dell replacement part, but you'd get it including the $150 touchscreen. Might separate that for resale; it won't function on the Clevo.

It's not a 'drop in', though. You need the WQHD cable as well (ask your reseller).

If you want to keep the same cable then you're limited to fhd/1080p. If it's the N133HSE-EA1 you have now then only the EA3 and AUO B133HAN02.0 would be an improvement. The EA3 with slightly better gamut and the AUO with better contrast and deeper blacks. The XPS panel is better than both, however.

 

Dell tend to have different connectors on their panels anyway.

 

Original post here

So after getting in contact with Metabox (reseller of Clevo down here in Australia) they agreed to send out a new heatsink even though I was technically out of warranty (by a couple of weeks). Big shout out to Dylan + Joe@Metabox!

The heatsinks looked identical, no physical damage on the old one or anything. I removed the default paste/pads from the new heatsink, cleaned it up and pasted with Gelid GC Extreme.

I took some readings before and after. All tests done with -55mv undervolt (very safe/stable level). Stuck it in a Spoiler to save page space. Ambient temps around 22 degrees (pretty warm office here)

Spoiler: Readings

Old Heatsink IDLE
Temperatures: 59/60/58/54
Actual Multipliers: 8/8/8/8

Old Heatsink CPU Burner @ 8 threads and underclocked multipliers (26/26/26/26)
Temperatures: 87/88/89/85
Actual Multipliers: 26/26/26/26

Old Heatsink CPU Burner @ 8 threads and standard multipliers (35/34/33/32)
Temperatures: 96/95/98/92
Actual Multipliers: 29/29/27/28
Thermal Throttling: Cores 1,2,3

New Heatsink IDLE
Temperatures: 48/50/46/45
Actual Multipliers: 8/8/8/8

New Heatsink CPU Burner @ 8 threads and underclocked multipliers (26/26/26/26)
Temperatures: 66/67/68/63
Actual Multipliers: 26/26/26/26

New Heatsink CPU Burner @ 8 threads and standard multipliers (35/34/33/32)
Temperatures: 83/86/86/80
Actual Multipliers: 32/32/32/32
Thermal Throttling: None

Findings:
1) So idles dropped a solid 10 degrees or so, more importantly the fans are actually off at idle now.
2) The underclocked scenario shows the most change with nearly 20 degrees difference. Fans are also only on the 1st step in this test whereas they'd be near full on previously.
3) Load test doesn't even get near TjMAX now where it previously throttled.
4) Strangely, across ALL tests Core #4 seems to operate quite a bit cooler.

TL;DR New heatsink goes in, temperatures drop around 10 degrees at idle and 20+ in load scenarios. Actually blows hot air now.

 

Interesting result ... care to take a hacksaw to the old heatsink? Might check if there's still a vacuum, liquid or inner lining.

 

It would be hard to tell if there was internal damage as it may be caused by ripping it apart.

 

Hi all,

I have been using my W230SS for a year now. Nothing taxing to the laptop, word processing etc. My CPU temp seems to be around 60C when idling and anywhere between 80-90C when playing something like League of Legends. Is there any cause for concern, as the fan also makes a lot of noise and can be distracting to others in my office when I am using it for office work.

Cheers,

Dave