*** Official Clevo W230SS/Sager NP7338 Owner's Lounge ***

The 14 incher might suit your needs but I think a 13 incher with a 1050 could be cool as well.

 

The only modern true 13" (the Aorus X3 is 13.9", which is practically 14 so I don't count that) getting around is the Alienware13 which is a big gaudy for work use. 14" models are a good compromise given that they're usually thinner which balances out their size somewhat.

I can vouch for the P641HK being a nice machine as a replacement, particularly from a value perspective since the W230SS was very good in that regard. Most other 14" machines with dGPU are significantly more expensive for what you get.
As far as dimensions it's roughly 2cm wider and deeper than the W230SS but makes up for it a bit by being a decent bit thinner.

I'm not sure we'll see another 13" Clevo generation. There was a big drive to "make the smallest" back then, but I think most people have come around to discover that weight and handling of the machine is more important than strictly screen size.

 

Indeed. In fact the P640HK1 is also a fair bit lighter than the W230SS.

Most 13" notebooks today are ultrabooks. Whatever happened to the successor of the W110ER?

Instead, today we have inelegant solutions that involve ridiculously large, non-standard (meaning neither MXM-A nor MXM-B, but the oddly-shaped GPUs that are currently in use by Clevo, Asus and such, and defeat the purpose of MXM in the first place) MXM GPUs, desktop CPUs in notebooks and people vouching for the fact that that is the best possible compromise in today's scenario. The P7 and especially the P8 series are basically heavy, immobile beasts that also require nearly a kilowatt of power to run. With a kilowatt I could run a small air conditioner, or an oven.

Notebooks are either getting exceedingly thin, with no room for real power, or exceedingly thick and heavy. The midrange has narrowed and become very expensive indeed.

 

The single GPU machines get by with 330W just fine. Standard MXM died this gen for a few reasons which have been gone over a few times.

 

Does anyone here suffer from the same GTX 860M issues on external output?
Ive seen a thread on nVidia board about it, but its pretty dead. Is there any fix for it? can i try undervolting it as a test? can someone here point me as to how..? Using a Prema bios

 

External Display ? No, I don't have any problem with that . I'm gaming on an external touchscreen monitor , no issue
Make sure you enable Maximum Performance (Nvidia Control Panel)

 

Did you really mean for firefox? [I did this now any way]

I even have this issue when running linux.
No way to game on external display as it might disconnect for a moment at any given time...

 

And.... there is goes again

 

No, you can add any program to that list
I thought you had a performance issue with a certain game when connecting to an external display . Apparently not then
On Ubuntu , Nvidia CP is called Nvidia X Server Settings and there should be an option for display output . You can select the display you want to use and disable your laptop display (if you want to) . I haven't touched Ubuntu for years , so my knowledge may be outdated

 

This problem is basically --all the time-- . https://forums.geforce.com/default/...force-gtx-860m-driver-issues-details-inside-/

As long as i am using any external output, it will at some point glitch, go black, act normal, repeat. Proven on Windows 7, 8 , 10, and different linux distros..
Disabling either nvidia or intergrated intel graphics did nothing.
Proccssor is 4810MQ

 

That's weird . Did you check the GPU temp? It could be overheating issue
My GTX 860M never reaches 70C at full load , Liquid Metal is my fav TIM

 

No issues here with external monitors. I have used both the HDMI and VGA outputs without complaint. W10 and W7 here


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

The nVidia chip reports about 45-55C , However the intel 4600 has a runs about 62C , with peaks up to 75C.

 

Yes the IGP temps can vary a fair bit.

 

Can someone tell me exactly what the difference is between a Chi Mei Innolux N133HSE-EA1 display, and the N133HSE-EA3?

One is apparently two years newer than the other, but panelook doesn't specify anything else. I'm also looking at the N133HSE-EB3 to potentially replace my current display, the EA1.

 

I would say it's am different panel controller and/or minor revision in the manufacturing process. If panelook says they are the same I think the upgrade is not worth it.

 

@Meaker@Sager, any idea?

 

I'm not specifically familiar with the panels, likely pretty similar if panel look is correct.

 

Do you guys know if it is possible to boot the computer without a screen connected?

 

Let me try later and tell you.

 

It should boot without an LCD panel there.

 

Hello people,

Issues have accumulated:
1. Battery does not charge anymore, seems like a MB issue, changing battery didnt help.
2.the screen and hinge are looking like they are about to break, every time I open the screen its like the plastic is about to open up.
3.some keys on the keyboard in the middle only register when clicked relatively hard.

Anything I can fix my self? does anyone know how much do I need to spend to fix this?

 

2. my screen hinges broke a while back, its actually not the hinge itself that fails, but the connection between it and a small metal arm that holds the screen plastic cover. At the time i was interested in getting the parts to fix it and it ran about 100$. I ended up not getting the part though]
3. Keys here are same, some cleaning might have helped, not sure, some of them [mine more on the rightmost column] still hard to nail
1. mine still charges, sorry to hear.

 

When my battery stopped charging, (and it also wasn't the battery's fault) I had it fixed through RMA. I haven't had the hinge problem. Some of my keys also take a while to register now, mostly the WASD keys, but there isn't a solution that I know of.

 

I'm a tech numpty but was able to fit a new keyboard. I bought mine from an international keyboard seller found via Google, but subsequently discovered that, in the UK, they can be bought from PC Specialist for under £25 (from memory).

 

1. Batteries will either fade slowly or die suddenly. It is likely your battery has suffered an internal failure. You can verify it's just the battery by removing it from the laptop and plugging in the AC adapter and turning it on. If it comes on like normal, then you know for sure the battery needs to be replaced. Sager sells replacements for $100, though I assume they can be purchased for less elsewhere.
2. The metal hinges on the laptop are very durable, but they are connected to the monitor back frame by six metal screws that fit into molded plastic fittings attached to the plastic back frame. Those weaken over time and fail one at a time until there is only one or two left attached - at which point you begin noticing the whole frame coming apart when you try to open or close it. I managed to repair mine by re-attaching the plastic fittings using a lot of super glue and 2 months later it's still holding. You can also buy a replacement monitor back for $35 + shipping by emailing support [email protected]. They will send you the 6 screws you need. They call it the "LCD back cover." It does not come with the Sager logo on it.
3. This has happened to me randomly about 3 times on 3 different keys. I've fixed each incident by taking a small metal pry tool and gently prying up on the key from different angles - not using too much leverage so it pops off - just enough to kind of "reset" it. Tapping it with moderate pressure during this process helps as well. It's nothing I could write a tutorial about because it's pretty non-scientific. There are videos on the internet on how you can actually replace keys or fix existing ones, but if you had to actually replace keys on a laptop this old, you probably just want to replace the whole keyboard.

At this point, my laptop is looking a little beat up. But it's still going strong. My second motherboard replacement is still doing fine after 1 1/2 years so I'm hoping for a couple more years out of it. Good luck with yours - if these are your only problems, you're doing pretty good.

 

If replacing the battery does not fix a failed battery charging issue then it is likely to be the charging circuit on the motherboard.

 

My laptop started acting up lately.
It's getting into the 100C and throttling massively when I put even the slightest of loads on it (like watching youtube videos, or playing a 15 year old game).

I've reapplied the thermal paste twice, cleaned the heatsink really well, but it's still not getting anywhere near reasonable temps.
Nothing's changed, but it just went from 'cooling properly' to 'is your heatsink even attached' (yes, yes it is) overnight.

Any ideas?

 

Change your heatsink. I've gone through three heatsinks myself (currently on my fourth) and my notebook is roughly as old as yours, possibly older. The W230SS heatsinks have a particularly nasty reputation of being warped, or not having good contact at all.

Then I'd suggest using ThrottleStop combined with the ASPM options in the PremaMod BIOS to ensure your CPU clocks down to ~800 MHz when idle. Furthermore, consider undervolting your CPU; the Haswell CPUs can be undervolted to roughly -50 to -80 mV. Saves plenty of power, and keeps your machine cool, too.

 

The heatsink just breaks? That's interesting... Guess I'll go find a new one then. I'm already using throttlestop to undervolt, I got to -65mV. Also going to take a look at the lower downclock, it's going to ~1200MHz at the lowest right now. Thanks!

 

No kidding—it actually does happen. One fine morning I woke up to my CPU idling at 70, and whenever I played games, it jumped to 95 degrees, and once the load was removed, the CPU termperature took an asymptotic curve downward, rather than jumping from the high 80s to the 50s as it usually is supposed to do.

None of us know exactly why this happens, but it isn't good for Clevo that this does happen in the first place.

 

Well mine is idling at 50C, but I've got a 10V lower TDP, so... Guess I'll have to go shell out $40 for a new heatsink.

 

How about the fan , does it spin properly ?
Anyway , I think you should use Liquid Metal (Liquid Ultra , Conductonaut...) . These thermal pastes are much better than the old stuffs (IC7, MX-4 ....) , you can have 15~30C lower temp if you apply them properly (Liquid Metal must be apply on both heatsink and CPU)
Btw, I'm also using W230SS

 

Thanks for everyone helping me out. I just installed the new heatsink and it's at 67C Tmax after a burn-in test, instead of almost idling at that temp.

Much appreciated!

 

Good to hear it's working again Heat pipes can go bad sometimes and they will tank performance like that.

 

Having a strange issue. Hoping to hear some thoughts. My laptop just shuts off randomly, happens when plugged in or on battery, its not power supply. I can turn the laptop back on right after. The keyboard lights up, I usually keep my keyboard lights off. It is not software, I re-installed windows. It is not over-heating, temps never go above 77-80 celsius, fan stays quiet. I did a RAM test it passed. No longer undervolting my cpu.


I think it is motherboard related. I'm out of warranty. A new mobo is around $450. Really could use some ideas. Could it be a bad capacitor? CMOS? It just clicks off, it works for anywhere between 30min to 1 hour

 

Use HWinfo and check secondary temperatures like HDD and PCH.

 

Hmm, thats possible. I'll check the PCH temp's when I get home. A buddy who replaced some capacitors said it might be the bios got corrupted. I'm still waiting on Prema to let me into his wordpress to re-download the bios. Can anyone email me the latest bios in the meantime?

 

Unlikely to be the BIOS once the system is up and running.

 

Yup, just updated the bios still having the same issue. I moved my SSD to the other MSATA slot and it seems to be running just a tad longer before suddenly shutting off. The original SSD spot is right above the PCH. My SSD doesn't go above 52 Celsius. HWMonitor didn't show any crazy temperatures for CPU, GPU. It only shows case temperature as well. I'm not sure if that's measured at the PCH or somewhere else. I'm thinking of putting a small copper heatsink on top of the PCH to see if that helps.

Strange this would happen now, 3 years after getting the laptop, Meager is this a common problem with the w230's? Also still wouldn't mind the newest prema bios. I just used the latest stock bios.

 

See temps after stress testing, don't think it's thermal. Especially since I don't game and this computer shuts off randomly on idle temps. I'm really stumped!

 

It could be a weak voltage regulator that's getting hot. Have you double checked the thermal pads?

 

What exactly am I checking, are you talking about the rubber/silicon pads that are usually around the GPU. I think when re-pasting a while back the pads were damaged and I did not re-install them. Heck that's so long ago I don't even remember exactly where they are put. Do you know a good place and brand to buy them? Was looking at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQ23NCK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A8FMU7A0YQ9B1&psc=1

 

Bingo those pads are required. I use phobya (not xt) or thermal grizzly pads as they are soft and not expensive. Height is important.

 

Our w230ss actually doesn't use thermal pads, see wingnuts repasting video. I took a stopwatch to it, it is shutting down 30min everytime on the dot. A lot of people are having this issue with other motherboards. It looks like you have to replace the bios chip. I can't even find a replacement bios chip online

 

BIOS chips are fairly standard, if you put the make into google you should be able to get alternative vendors.

 

As Meaker has said, they're quite generic; just make sure it's an SPI type (25), has the same capacity or more and identical dimensions (you need SOIC8, 200 mil); this one will do, for example. On this system the bios+ec eeprom is 32 Mbit and the ME eeprom is 16 Mbit. Main thing is that it has been programmed correctly (a blank chip being of little help, of course).

Can send you a preflashed chip, if you like. Not sure it will do any good though, do you have links to places where people have reported the same issue with the W230Sx? And did you swap some capacitors on this board or not?

The ' 30 minutes to the dot' is indeed quite weird, but just to rule out battery or adapter; run solely on either and see if the issue persists. Same with ram and drives; test each bank on its own and run on a cloned drive, removing the existing one altogether. Ditch the wifi card as well, for good measure.

 

Hey guys this has probably been asked before, but is there a recommended seller for battery packs in Europe/Germany and are there bigger sizes than 5600 mAh?

 

Usually your reseller for genuine parts and the unit just had the one size battery.

 

The CMOS chip in my W230SS refuses to store BIOS settings once I unplug the power cable. The CMOS battery is fairly new, less than 6 months old, too. This has been a recurring problem with this notebook. What do I do?