*** Official Clevo W230SS/Sager NP7338 Owner's Lounge ***

Have you measured the voltage of the battery? Something in the circuit could have a higher draw than normal.

 

How? I haven't got a voltmeter. I could plug it into my C236 motherboard to test...

 

Give it a go and see.

 

Thought I'd mention I successfully installed an Intel i7 4940MX ("Extreme Edition") processor in my Sager NP7338. It has a higher thermal envelope (TDP 57W vs 47W) but runs at the same power as the 4810. It's default speed is 3.1 Ghz and I believe it can burst to near 4Ghz. Interestingly, my battery life has improved since the upgrade (probably due to selective binning). If you decide to perform this upgrade, be vigilant for "engineering samples" - pre-release CPUs being sold as retail. I believe they have QS at the end (e.g., 4940QS). Those CPUs were designed for a much shorter lifespan and won't last very long under regular use.

It's not revolutionary, but still cool to have the fastest mobile Maxwell Intel made.

 

Does anyone have a suggestion for possibly upgrading the internal Killer Wireless-n 1202 card that came with my NP7338? As a student I sometimes run online "labs" through a browser that maintain a constant connection to a remote server and when in a public wifi environment, I get a lot of disconnects. My last lab, which should have lasted 45 minutes, took 1 1/2 hours and 3 end-lab-restart-lab sessions to complete.

 

Haswell

Upgrade to an Intel 8265AC. They are cheap on eBay.

 

Oh right <blush> thanks for the tip! I just investigated your idea. The 8265AC has the retention screw hole in the wrong place (for this laptop). The retention screw hole on mine is located in the upper right corner of the card and it's an inch too long:



There's no way it would fit, as the slot it fits into is right at 2" from the edge of the case. Any other upgrade ideas?

 

Note the 8265AC is M.2 and the 1202 is mPCI-e. The intel 7260 came in both variations.

 

The 4930MX is actually better, because apparently it runs cooler for the same performance. Can ask @Mr. Fox, I think

 

This. I tough this model already had the m.2 interface for wi-fi.

 

Yeah I had to look it up myself as I was suspicious. It was a little before m.2.

 

hi guys i baught Multicom W230SS used which is based on the same chassy as clevo w230ss and sager NP7338, with Gtx 860 & i7 4710MQ, and just found out a very serious problem with it after a month of usage i noticed a crack on the carcasse of the screen

apperantly the screws that hold the peice of medale got loose or something and so the medal part pushes the plastic fram open whenever i try to open or close the laptop

also noticed some glue on that medal peice apperantly the former owner(which of cours he didn't tell me) tried to diyhack using glue
im worried that it might effect the screen on the long term or even worse cut that very thin wire that runs the lcd screen as it is very close to it

this is a picture i found shows the medal peice im talking about



also some parts of the screen have some faded pixel(shows a a bit of gray or white while exposed to dark images) i thought it might be just singes of use but i started doubting that the screen might be a replacement which line totally with the loosen medal(perhaps a wrong disassembly) & the glue on it

My Question is, is there a way i can buy a replacement to that part or hack it so it can stick to its place?

 

It might be best if you post your own pics to show exactly what you mean.

 

yes indeed i can )

this is how the screen looks whenever i try to open the laptop or close it or adjust it



this is some other pictures i took after the disessembly to further show what i mean



a better shot of the issue



and this is how it normally suppose to look like(left hinge)

 

Yes that is broken, I would take it up with the original seller. It will quickly deteriorate from that condition.

 

thats the issue i baught it used from a guy at craiglist so yeah i can't contact the original seller, isn't there any some sort of a replacement hinge i can buy online ?

 

It's not the hinge, you would need to replace the back lid cover.

Normally you would go to your reseller to get a part like this.

 

okay mate thnx for the quick reply will try and contact the seller who sold it to me at craiglist see if he can help maybe he still got a receipt or something

this is really a bummer as i just baught the laptop a month ago and now i have to face such probleme

 

Fortunately the part you need is plastic only which keeps the cost down.

 

It's really both the hinge and lid that are broken in this instance:

Spoiler: Clevo W230SS - double failure

That hinge can't be fixed without welding and if you'd only attach the bottom half to the lid then it's only a question of time before the plastic lid starts cracking. Part nr. for the right-side hinge is '6-33-W2301-0R2'.

A new lid isn't absolutely necessary though; a score of users have resorted to drilling holes through the lid and attaching the hinge with nuts and bolts. The result is very sturdy and afaik no one suffered the same problem since. You might also try glue-ing again, but that's not a fool-proof method and a bit harder to do correctly:

• thread 1
• thread 2 (ST model)
• post regarding an ST
• thread 3

Mine:

Spoiler: Clevo W230SS - hinge, broken

Spoiler: Clevo W230SS - left hinge, front (M4x6mm hex bolts)

Spoiler: Clevo W230SS - hinge fix, M4 bolts cropped to size

 

Good eye to catch the metal frame had snapped also. I guess the glue held for a while and put pressure on the metal or it got dropped.

 

Yes, exactly.

The same thing might've happened to the other machines as well, mine included; you can see the 'arm' bending away from the section that holds the screws. Using it like that would result in metal fatigue and inevitable failure, so it is imperative to fix the issue asap after noticing it.

 

thnx mate i'm not that confortable of driling a hole into the plastic lid im affraid i might crack it or something, i will try on gluing it again

as for the current status i'm triying to not tilt the screen and keep it fixed on one position(open) so i don't damage the back lid and the W-lan cable that runs disturbingly close to it

 

New lid and the bracket would return it to stock. A local reseller should be able to help you out.

 

the lid cover it self cost more then 65$ thats a lot consider i just paid over 400$ for the laptop a couple weeks ago
but again thank you you were guys a lot of help to me

 

Well it's relatively cheap compared to what other notebook parts can be at least.

It's the kind of thing you do have to look out for while buying 2nd hand.

 

Good news guys i was able to use some hacks with the help of a friend of mine and now its fully working without driling the back lid cover and messing with its beauty ^^
and its very sturdy (well i hope so)
== Will upload some pictures Soon if someone is interested how i was able to do it

 

Always worth sharing

 

Guys, where to buy an ac adapter? The one that came with the laptop is about to stop working.

 

Many places on the internet or your reseller. Try to stick to known brands like Delta, FSP etc. 120W, 19v, 5.5x2.5mm barrel type connector.

 

Is it a known issue that the Chi Mei Innolux N133HSE-EA1 1080p panel that comes default with this notebook has a contrast issue that frequently occurs after the notebook is sent to sleep and woken again?

It is especially annoying and noticeable when Alt+Tabbing from a bright application to a dark one, say, from Chrome browser on a webpage with a whigte background, to Adobe Lightroom. The contrast is momentarily extremely washed out in the bright application; it takes a solid five seconds for it to normalise. I can even see the waves of colour rolling across the screen as it adjusts. This happens regardless of whether the notebook is plugged in or running on battery.

 

Has this always been the case for you since owning it?

 

Sorry abt that i haven't checked my account since a while will try to update you with the pictures ASAP

 

BTW after opening my laptop i noticed that the laptop fan started to rattle a bit every time in a while and usually a bit shake to the chassy will resolve it for me
but in the process of triying to fixing it, i used some grease to oil the the fan and now its even worse the rattling is constant and i dont know what to do with it

Also i noticed some Heat issues althought i replaced my thermal paste with a decent one
Gpu reach about 90C while in full load

 

It could be a bearing going in the fan which a replacement would solve.

 

how about the temp issue certanly the cooling of this laptop is capable of taming the gtx 860m yet i was having temp issues from the first day i baught it thought its just a matter of replacing the thermal paste

but now im starting to feel that the liquide inside the heatsink vaporized or something

 

A pipe can break and if the pressure is broken and the fluid escapes then it's not going to cool at all, any connected hardware would throttle to minimum speeds and be at maximum temperatures.

 

well thats not the case for me the gpu can still reach 99% utilisation with 1097Clock speed which indicate its not throtiling in matter of fact everything is normmale except that the gpu reading is between 87-92C° depending on the game
also the cpu can hit 3.2Ghrz boost on multiple cores so i don't think im suffering from any thermal throtiling in terms of performance

i tried to touch the heatsink while the laptop is underload and both of the cpu&gpu pipe was a bit hot to touch so i guess the pipe is okay

Any Other Idea of what my go wrrong with cooling?

 

Hello everyone ! ;-)

I am new Clevo user, but I bought used one and I think there are some issues.
I have two batteries and after replacing one of them I need to plug power, otherwise laptop won't start.
If battery is not changing, starting is normal, I don't need to plug power.
Seller said, that these batteries are not original and that is "normal".
How does it look in real ?

There is also strange thing, that after 7 days, battery is drained to 50% from 100%, when laptop was powered off all the time (not sleeping, not hibernating)

 

Sounds like the battery is a lower quality third party replacement. Only solution to that is to dump it and get an official one.

 

I have two batteries.
On the second one after 1 week battery is drained to 60% (laptop is not used at all - power off).
But...
batteries are NOT drained when they are out of laptop (only 1% per 1 week),
so I think that batteries are not the cause, but the problem is with laptop ...

 

Is here anyone who could check if his Clevo W230 starts without power supply after removing its battery for a while ?

 

No, that's an EC reset and it will need to be plugged in to power off for safety.

 

I asked user of W230ST for a test and he took out the battery for a while and laptop started normaly without using charger, so I don't understand ...
He has the same battery.

 

Hello!

I am looking for the BIOS of w230ss, I have prema mod right now, how do I revert?

also does the original bios have Wake On Lan?

Thanks

 

So My Laptop cpu fan is going bad lately and i cant tollerate the noise its making &i was thinking of replacing it

the laptop module is clevo w230ss with an i7 4710MQ and i was wondering where i can find a genuine laptop fan because clevo doesn't ship its product to my country im stuck with the used or chinese market

can someone explain to me the difference between this two modules, and why the price difference is that big between them, Also what should i look in a fan in terms of RPM and voltage ect

also another question is it normal that temps rise to 90C on load with the current fan(before it goes bad), i tried replacing the thermal paste which make me doubt it has something to do with the fan it self or the heatsink


the links
- 1st Fan
- 2nd Fan
- 3rd Fan

 

Either of those ADDA-labeled links are fine; that's the original part. That other aliexpress/MLLSE listing is for an after-market substitute. It might be fine, but at the very least the metal shroud is clipped to the base, rather than using screws as in the original, so you won't be able to clean it effectively or take it apart. Also no mention of its power rating; the stock is 0.4A, which is pretty close to the 0.5A maximum for these 5V fans.

Before ordering; you probably don't really need a new fan. These things are durable, but the system is a bit old by now and after enough wear it'll run out of bearing/axle grease. The result is a lot of noise and a limited top-end in rpms or excessive power consumption, depending on whether the motherboard can deliver enough amps to compensate for the additional drag.

Remove the shroud and pull the fan-section (rotor) free from the base with pliers. Make sure to grip only the central part, staying well away from the flimsy blades themselves. Pulling in a straight angle is best, so directly away from the board. Once free you'll have easy access to the busing and can add a drop of low-viscosity lubricant. Once that's nicely soaked up use a dab of vaseline to seal off the top and put the rotor back. It'll be quieter than when it was new, the vaseline dampening any sound from the bearing that may still be present.

Also check it's not simply running against the shroud or base due to misalignment; either will show scratch marks if that is so.

Spoiler: stator half of the fan, ready for oiling

 

So the adda ab7905hx-de3 is the geniune one?? Also i noticed that the temps are ridiculously high with the current fan, will replacing it with a geniune Adda fan will do the charm or im out of luck and i need to also replace the heatsink
because im having a bad time with temps it GPU and CPU reaches 90C on load

 

Use Liquid Metal instead of traditional paste . If you apply it correctly , temperature will drop 20C

Original cpu fan of W230SS is very loud at maximum speed , nothing can fix that unless you drop CPU/GPU temperature

 

Didn't help me. The W230SS' cooling system is rubbish (one heatpipe each for CPU and GPU leading to one heatsink cooled by one fan) and that cannot be helped. Neither can the fact that Haswell CPUs have FIVRs, which adds on to the thermal load.

@OP, I suggest you under-volt your CPU to reduce load temperatures. Otherwise, you're stuck with 90–95°C temps. That's just how it is.