*** Official Clevo X170SM-G/Sager NP9670M Owner's Lounge ***

No it is not an NV Ram issue, like I elaborated above. Any new settings are retained as they should be, but if there is green backlight set, the red will still stay on resulting in a green+red mixture of backlight shade on these keys.

 

I have had this issue myself but it was green not red, how I fixed it was to put all keys to white for an hour then click reset in CCC which solved it for me.

I reported the same solution to PCS after I had the issue.

I even went as far as resetting not just the bios but also the ec firmware which didn't work , even uninstalled CCC which didn't help but blasting another colour worked.

It may also if you click reset come back slowly however you just repeat the above, till it goes back to normally its an issue in how CCC writes the data to the ec which is my guess.

Sent from my SNE-LX1 using Tapatalk

 

It did not help in my case, unfortunately. There seems to be something physically wrong with the keyboard backlight circuit within the keyboard itself.

 

Already did cmos reset?
I‘ll have a look in the schematics

 

Everything basic has already been done before making the above posts.

 

Bummer take it US keyboard?

Sent from my SNE-LX1 using Tapatalk

 

Might be an issue with a layer in the lamination you can't really fix that except replace.

 

The issue got resolved with a replacement keyboard. It seems that there was some internal ground bleed in the original keyboard that was allowing a very low amount of current to flow through the circuit when there was no backlight set. It is now back to being a practically new machine once again! I guess I will have to clean up this keyboard more often than usual and will definitely have to get a dust cover for the thing.

 

Just don't keep a dust cover on it while the machine is loaded.

 

Are there any changes to this tutorial when using Windows 11 Pro?

 

I can't see anything that would be particularly different so long as CCC is loading in the first place.

 

No changes. Everything applies as-is.

I am not going to get a traditional silicon cover. Rather I will get one made from a very thin piece of netted cloth which will protect from dust but at the same time it will not turn the machine into a frying pan by entrapping heat.

 

That's a really tough balance to hit. Anything like that is going to reduce airflow.

 

My machine generally stays cool as I work in an air conditioned room. However if I see temps creeping up to an uncomfortable degree (which is unlikely as I also used a gigantic laptop cooler), I will take the cover off. What I expect in this particular case is a very minor bump in temperature in an extreme use case scenario because there is no direct air flow between the keyboard and the fans. The fan air just brushes against the underside part of the keyboard which gets the heat from metal to metal conduction from it's edges where it clamps into the chassis. The keyboard itself has many insulating material membranes between both surfaces so it is not a particularly conductive metal surface if we want metal to air heat dissipation. Based on my tests so far with a custom cut piece of plastic on this keyboard, the temperature difference has been 1 degrees in the worst case scenario which is within margin of error. The key here is that the cover didn't exceed the corners of the keyboard in measurement. However generally it is a bad practice to cover the keyboard when machine is under load so this does not apply to every machine out there. See if it affects your particular design folks.

 

It's the flow over the board and passives on that side that don't have sensors that are the issue, not the CPU/GPU temps.

 

That's not an issue in this particular model and design because the only thermally conductive part is the base plate of the keyboard that transfers the heat to the chassis through the sides that physically touch the chassis. It is completely thermally insulated from the top layer where the buttons are.

 

The motherboard has components on that side of the motherboard that can bake if you block them off from airflow.

 

In this machine there is NO airflow through the keyboard top. Not even passive. It only happens through the underside which is insulated from the top and conducts through physical contact to the chassis where the keyboard snaps in, which is the area that's open even with the cover in place.

 

Fair, in that case a gauze should be fine.

 

I am having an issue with trying to install new ram. When I purchased it, it came with the 16gb crucial and I wanted to get dual channel. At first I thought I would try my luck at getting another crucial from another batch. When I got it and tried it, the computer wouldn't post. I switch them out and tried both single channel and it booted right up. So I assumed the miss match batch stop the post. That's fine. I bought a pair or batch of Kingston fury DDR4 3200. Put both in and still no post. I then tried just one Kingston and it booted immediately. I then tried all my slots. Would post single channel, but as soon as I would do dual the computer would just not take it. Did I just get unlucky with the models I bought being able to work ? or is it possible another issue? Before I did anything with the ram the first time, I did have to replace the fan/heatsink because the one I had went bad and started making a noise.

 

Depending on your motherboard, you may have to install the Kingston HyperX Fury RAM in either the slots underneath the keyboard, or the slots underneath the bottom cover.

For me, I had to install my Crucial Ballistix 3200 MHz CL16 kit in the slots underneath the keyboard for them to be stable. Another forum member with 3200 MHz RAM had to install them in the slots underneath the keyboard to get them stable. It's weird.

A rule of thumb here: when you install your memory, regardless of which set of slots you install the kit in, make sure to do an NVRAM reset by pulling out the CMOS battery and leaving the laptop be for about 30 seconds to a minute. This gives it a swift kick in the butt and should get it to post.

From there, you can go into the BIOS and apply the XMP profile for your RAM. All should be good after that. If the computer doesn't post, try the other set of slots.

 

Also combining one slot from each bank can work sometimes too (Eg. Slot 1 + 4 or 2 + 3).

 

Well I removed the CMOS battery and tired under the keyboard again but still no post. When I put one stick back in to boot it normally, it did give me the CMOS message about NVRAM reset. I put it back it one last time and still no post. With both sticks in it wont let me go to the BIOS at all.

 

Have you tried the combos I mentioned?

 

There’s a prema x170sm-g on eBay USA right now. Looks pretty good.

 

How much

 

It's probably still listed, I can't imagine there are loads on the site.

 

Only one. $1800 + shipping starting bid. Still has 6+days left

 

The 2080 super can certainly keep up pretty well.

 

So no support for any 11th gen CPUs on this laptop ever?

I'm having a feeling that Premamod will not be updated to support 11th gen CPUs in this laptop. That's really a shame because I could really use the significant uplift in single core performance. Oh well.

 

There was not that much difference in a motherboard that can't take advantage of the differences.

 

Serious offers only please don't lowball me.
I'm looking to sell my x170sm g with prima mod I'm asking for offers plus whatever shipping is to where you want it shipped. You can choose your method of shipping of course. I just require signature and that you fully insure it. (If you choose not and the package is lost you'll be butt hurt for not listening to me)

I only take PayPal as send to friends and family. I've been a longtime member of the community and am trusted.

Specs are

Prema mod (personal edition and installed directly by prema himself)
10850k hit 5ghz all core if you know how to oc and mess with voltages. I will NOT Provide this info as I won't be responsible for any damage after receiving the product.
2080 super
300hz 1080p screen
2tb sata drive m.2
NO OS INSTALLED
2 slot power bricks (3 nvme slots available)
Intel wifi
16gb 2667mhz memory


It will need a repaste. I also have done Mr fox mod to it. Please pm offers. No returns on this as I'll will upload pic of it operating normally. As with I expect you to be tech savvy enough to be able to repaste. I am disabled from my arms currently and cannot do it myself.i haven't touched the laptop in over a month. There maybe dust in there as well.

 

So I have an interesting problem.

I broke my original screen by accident, so I had to get a replacement screen. I ordered one with the exact same part number as my original, but I have lost G-Sync.

Reinstalling the driver did nothing. Interestingly in Custom Resolution Utility, the panels have different names. The original panel is identified with LGD6015 while the new panel is identified with CMN157F. Is this the issue here? Do I need to change the identifier of the new screen?

Based on my understanding, if the part number is the same, G-Sync should still work since the panel's part number would be whitelisted for G-Sync.

 

On screens the G-Sync part is in the edid section on the screens driver board EPROM. What hz what's your screen and full model number if its 1080p@144 I can dump my edid for you to inject to test.

Edit: now I fully woke up CMN is Innolux or Chimei which means you was sent a completely different screen hence why gsync is not working the cookie for g-sync will not have that screen in so even edid from a g-sync enabled system will not help.

It must be LG

Sent from my SNE-LX1 using Tapatalk

 

I have a power problem with my laptop. It started with Win10 saying I had no battery. Both of the lights on the front of the laptop were on, both green. I shutdown the laptop and removed the battery. I reinstalled the battery making sure it was seated correctly. When I restarted the laptop it booted up and now it says the battery is there but it has 0% charge. Also one of the power lights on the front is now yellow. If I unplug one of the power supply cables, the laptop stays on but seems to be in a low power state, it works but the screen gets dim. It does the same with either power supply cable. If I unplug both it shuts down. Has anyone had a similar problem? Any ideas or suggestions appreciated.

 

Ouch not good, have you tried resetting the bios/ec ? Take the battery and PSU off, then remove the back you will see a coin sized battery inside covered with two wires, follow the wires and gentaly remove the plug. Wait 2 minutes and put everything back and power up, it will reboot cycle a few times before booting up.
If this doesn't solve it RMA the system.

Sent from my SNE-LX1 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks for the help. Yeah my screen is a 144Hz 1080p panel with part number LP173WFG(SP)(B1).

Now that I looked closer at my receipt, I see it ways compatible with LP173WFG(SP)(B1). Is there no way to get G-Sync back even if it's an Innolux or Chimei panel?

Loosing G-Sync isn't a big deal since it would only be useful to me in one game anyway, but it is an annoyance that I lost a feature I once had access to.

If I can't get G-Sync working with this panel, I may try pulling a panel from another laptop I have that I know has an LG panel (also 144Hz 1080p and shows up as LGD0615 in Custom Resolution Utility).

 

Unless the screen matches what the G-Sync cookie is looking for you will not get it back unless Clevo adds it to the bios.

 

What exactly is this cookie? Is it an identifier that's part of a whitelist in the BIOS?

I'm assuming having Premamod isn't going to help because of the way G-Sync works in laptop.

Anyways, thanks for your input. Loosing G-Sync isn't much of a loss for me since I like running at a locked 120 fps or 144 fps anyway.

 

Its a whitelist of such, set for its Nvidia that sets it.

I think there was two versions if it one was more stricter then the other.

I am not sure how Prema was doing the bios mods, however the Odm/Oem is given the cookie for their firmware updates such as in Clevos case with this X170KM-G Laptop Bios 1.07.07 was release to add 1440p@165hz G-Sync panels.

There has been only one person I know that was able to mod the G-Sync cookie but Nvidia made an example of this person.

Sent from my SNE-LX1 using Tapatalk

 

Hi guys

I think I've discovered a dead pixel which only appears in light backgrounds, is there anything I can do?

 

You can take a paper towel or microfiber cloth, wet it with warm water, and gently massage the screen with your thumb in the affected area. Make sure to not put too much pressure on the screen when doing this.

This can restore pixels to working condition, but is not guaranteed to fix them. However, you can always give it a try.

 

There is also pixel saver software you can try and run.

 

Don't think it worked! Thanks for the suggestion.

@Meaker@Sager any software you recommend?

 

Undead pixel is one.

 

I tried your suggestion, leaving it overnight with no power and battery disconnected. It seems to have worked, as the battery is now fully charged and working normally. I will order a spare battery in case it happens again. Thanks

 

Glad to hear it bud.

Sent from my SNE-LX1 using Tapatalk