*** Official Sager NP9175 / Clevo P775TM Owner's Lounge! ***

I heard about it on some older models just not recently.

 

Hi guys!
I've got a P775TM1-G. I want to upgrade to a 2x16GB RAM kit and was wondering what would be the best bet compatibility and performance-wise?
Is it worth going over 3000Mhz? What CAS should I look for? Lower than 16?
How much better would that be over a regular 2400Mhz CAS17 kit? For gaming

Thanks!

 

3000mhz seems to be the sweetpoint for price/perf.

I've personally been using a G.Skill 3200 kit in both my p775tm1 and p870tm1, with a little tweaking they both run +3200mhz.
CL16 does good performance at 3200mhz. If you plan on trying to push beyond 3000mhz, I'd recommend single rank sticks (ie. 2x8gb or 4x8gb).

But it all depends on the quality of traces on your motherboard and the strength of the IMC, so there isn't a guarantee they will do those speeds.
You should try and push your current ram and see how far it'll go before investing in a new kit, sometimes you'd be surprised at how much you can squeeze out of your current setup.

 

I agree really, above 3000mhz it gets harder to justify and get stable.

 

Is it that hard to get stable? I thought XMP would take care of that.
3000MHz is hard to get over here, but I can get a nice deal on a pair of G.Skill 3200MHz CL18 ones, think they are a good option?
Or should I go with a pair of HyperX 2666MHz CL15?

 

Oh man, ram overclocking is a cruel and time consuming mistress. Sometimes settings you have tested and know work, won't boot for odd reasons.

As for XMP profiles, they might or might not work, depending on your bios/cpu and board.
In my case, I could only get XMP 3200 to boot using dimm1/dimm4, so you'll have to experiment with what dimm setups net higher clocks.

For instance, for me dimm 1/4 setup topped out at 3400mhz. Whilst using dimm3/4, dimm2/3, dimm1/2 topped out at 3100 w/ an 8086k.

 

Thanks!
Yeah I’m familiar, and I’m trying to avoid that headache.
Is it easier to run a 3200mhz kit at 3000mhz? Perhaps with tighter timings?
Or should I just go with a low latency 2666 kit?

 

I got that 3200 cl18 gskill kit to run @3100 cl15-17-17-39 at 1.35v

 

If you can return them, try out the fastest. Remember also 2666 ram should work nice at 3000 with ok timings on TM board (a little work is expected if you want it run best Possible).

Edit. On the old Dm board from 2015 I run my cheap 2133 at 2800 with cl 16-16-16-36 and 1.25v. But as always expect it take some time have it to works.

 

The chips these days are much more overclockable than the early ones.

 

Thanks for the help guys!

My main worry was to get rid of this 2-Power RAM I had as one of the modules already died once.
Ended up getting 2 x 16GB Kingston Hyper X Impact 2666 CL15. They were quite cheaper and should do 3000 CL17 or CL18 from what I gathered but let's see.

 

Let us know how you get on.

 

Quick question, do you need to remove the heatsink and GPU to access the GPU fan connector? Seems a bit annoying if so.

 

Yes, the fan onnector is under the GPU on the p775tm1.

 

Oh, lovely.

 

On the bright side, you can give it a one over now that youre taking it apart anyway

 

Coming from the older P751DM2-G, the headset jack on the P775TM-R (powered by the so-called ESS Sabre HiFi DAC) makes the DT 770 Pro sound "flat". Quite the opposite of what I expected as it feels like a downgrade, but at least the Fiio Q is holding on strong. For now.

 

Is SoundBlaster Connect working correct with the Realtek driver when you launch it?

 

Yes.

I also have an application called "Realtek Audio Console" installed, and with the current driver in place, no option for "2.1 surround sound" exists despite this system having a subwoofer at the bottom.
Let me double check, perhaps my audio driver is messed up.

 

Hmm, I was able to fix this by firing up the Windows store > Downloads and Updates > Show All Owned and clicking the application Sound Blaster Connect.
And from here you can easily install it

 

Glad to hear you fixed it.

 

Is there any update on the refresh of this chassis?

 

No news.

 

Since I'm gonna have to most likely remove the heatsink from the GPU and the GPU card itself to replace my GPU fan, I'm a bit scared of using thermal paste or liquid metal. So I was wondering, is this a good alternative to those to put on the GPU die? https://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Graphite-Thermal-Pad/dp/B07CKVW18G/

 

Why scared of thermal paste? Worst case order a decent size tube and practise. With GPUs it's fairly simple to do a little x.

 

Can you use liquid metal on them?

 

Perhaps a bad idea if thermal paste application is a hurdle you are not happy with yet.

 

Oh alright, it's just my first time so I just want to do it the best possible way

 

I'm with @Meaker@Sager on that, get some decent thermal paste like Kryonaut and get some experience before going LM.

 

Indeed, dont be afraid to apply it and then take it off to check before re-applying again. You can tell by the pattern if it was too much or little. Or you can take pictures and ask.

 

Im using IC Graphite pads right now on CPU and GPU. Although they perform better than stock thermal paste came with my system. I think paste is the best option. I got new 775TM1 with 9700K few weeks ago and still testing. unfortunately my 775DM died after working 24/7 for nearly 3.5years.

On GPU, pad gives much better thermal performance but on CPU its slightly better than stock paste. I think this is due to poor mounting pressure. if i stack two pads CPU drop another 2-3C.

Anyway I'm using these as a temp solution until Gelid thermal pads arrive. Then I'll do complete thermal pad/paste overhaul. I might test paste on CPU and pad on GPU to see if i see any significant difference.

 

I have a Sager NP9176-G3 so I'm guessing this is the right owner's lounge. Weird question: Has anyone not had the actual Sound Blaster Connect app on their machine? I can see Sound Blaster Connect installed in the Device Manager under Software Components but there's no way for me to actually use it. I've searched all over my drives. No client, no app, no programs by Creative or Sound Blaster at all, no nothing.

I opened a ticket with Sager tech support over a month ago and got told that it's an automatic download from the Microsoft Store after I activate Windows. Well, I activated my Windows over a month ago. I've searched the Microsoft Store along with my store list of programs and apps I own and there's nothing there either. I've been waiting SEVENTEEN DAYS for Sager to get back to me after I informed them of this and still no replies, so I'm turning to you guys. Any ideas? @Meaker@Sager, can you help at all?

 

I had similar issue, what solved it for me was using the driver cd iso,

Install Realtek sound driver --> restart -> Install Soundblaster driver -->restart

Windows store would download Realtek App --> launch app

Restart

Check store if SoundBlaster Connect app appears, it should automatically download at this point.

 

I'm in the same boat... I have the Realtek driver and Realtek Audio Console Windows app.
Can't launch Creative's software.
Should I uninstall everything and then reinstall by your order?

 

You can try and see if it solves your issue. I used these drivers, that was however on a clean install. So installing the network driver came first, and then as written above.

 

Alright, thanks for the advice guys

 

Guys I have a annoying BF5 bug. Everytime I play the game my CPU downclock to 2.8Ghz (all cores). GPU worked fine.

I don't encounter this with any other game or benchmark. For example I can fire up CPU-Z AVX stress test(6 threads) and run fire strike ultra combined test (looped) without down clocking.

Once BF5 start down clocking, issue will last until next restart.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

 

There's supposed to be a Realtek app too? I don't have that either! WTF Sager?

 

Try launching BF:V and have HWinfo64 in the background, once it throttles, check what flags are triggered under "Performance Limit Reasons". This should shed some light on what causes it.

 

I think I found the issue. PL1 and PL2 values going down to 21.625W and 54.125W . They will reset back once i restart the system. If i fire up BF5 they will going down. All the other applications (P95/3DMark/Cinebench) works with out any issue.

I have basic(stock) Clevo BIOS with default settings. Normal settings for my i7 9700K is PL1 65W/PL2 81.25W.

I didn't bother to change them until im 100% satisfied with the factory default setting. I'm on latest
BIOS Version 1.07.25

 

Ok that's funky, did you disable all overclocking programs?

 

Yes. No overclocking at all. Only hwinfo running background to check the temp. I'm just trying to figure out my gaming temps using BF5. Because of this issue I'm having trouble finding that.

Anyway what do you think about my heatsink. I think I have bad cpu sink. Might put small shim in the middle


Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

 

The pressure is even but a bit low so the paperclip mod would sort that out.

 

I guess you mean like below picture? I did that and repasted but cpu temps still far too high. When I play BF5, CPU hitting 94C but GPU stay below 82C.

Btw I figure out what caused the CPU PL1 and PL2 to throttle to battery power levels. CCC 2.0 uninstall solved the issue.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

 

Your cpu paste imprint suggests a concave IHS so lapping may give you decent benefit.

 

Are all the heatpipes evenly hot?

 

Didn't checked that. Will do today.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

 

Are the temperatures with FN+1 max fans? What about undervolting your 9700k, should shave degrees off.

 

Yes max fan and -100V under volt. summer time my room ambient temp always stay around 24-25C.

Anyway I think I solved the problem. Re-pasted and readjust the thermal pad height. Now when I play BF5 my max GPU temp 77C (5C drop compared to yesterday) / max CPU temp 86( 8C drop compared to yesterday)

Initially i setup thermal pads based on original pad height, but forgot to remember original crappy pads are soft. so when i apply pads based on those heights they are not squeezing enough. so reduce the heat sink contact pressure.

 

Yeah, hard pads do need adjustments to fit right, a bit like liquid metal so in general use softer ones if possible.