*** Official Sager NP9380, NP9390 / Clevo P370SM, P370SM3, P375SM Owner's Lounge ***

Yeah, Windows 8.1 is still buggy but it should be fixed soon. Don't worry about it. But if you don't need to upgrade 8.0 > 8.1 just don't to this. Not yet. Microsoft software development world... ehh :/

 

Well, the general consensus is that I should repaste, so why not? However I must ask: What should I use to remove the old paste? I think I'd try a dot method for the new paste and see, as that seems to be the most common I guess.

 

High purity isopropyl alcohol is the best. I use an Articlean system myself but probably unnecessary for most cases. Really helps if it's caked up on there.

 

To improve even more your temps you could lapp you cpu block but that's not an easy process

 

I have always used Isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip to clean off the paste. Then clean it with a lint free cloth once the paste starts to dissolve. Nothing...and I mean Nothing reduces the viability of thermal compound than Dust or dirt. So , make sure that it is dust free and clean before you apply the new paste. Also, you may want to rub a small amount of the paste into the part of the heat sink that will be physically touching the CPU/GPU. The copper/aluminum has a porous surface, so sometimes the paste doesn't get into the microscopic area's of the metal. Spreading it around and pushing it into those area's before you apply the paste to the CPU/GPU will allow better contact with the paste when you reapply the heat sink to the CPU/GPU. Just make sure that you clean the surface of any extra thermal compound (without alcohol) after you rub in the paste to the heat sink. Then just reapply the paste, via dot or spread method, and reattach the heat sink's. I have done this too many times to count and I have NEVER had a problem.

I have been building computers, for myself and for others, since 1993 when I put together my first system. It was a AMD 33MHZ CPU with the old ISA cards. Oops, did I just show my age Let me tell you, that this is really hard to mess up. If you do, just clean it off and start over. No worries.
You should get used to doing this because viability of the paste only lasts so long. Usually about 2- 3 years because of dust and debris (paste + dirt = mud). Although, I always change mine every year when I do my cleaning. Also, there is usually better thermal compound technology out there, so I consider it more of an upgrade than maintenance. Good luck.

 

The risk with spreading it around is that you might get tiny air bubbles.

 

There are so many different application methods and everybody thinks theirs is king. I personally do the dot method after cleaning with the articlean. Been building computers a little less time than but I've made sure to make up for lost time for sure. Like it was said though, if you don't get good results, do it again, no harm no foul. Find what works best for you and it'll become second nature before too long.

 

Derek is right, everyone has their favorite way. Although, if your going to use the spreading method, make sure that you don't do it by hand. Put the heat sink on top and press then move it around to dislodge any air bubbles. Personally, I like the dot (pea size) method also. It's kind of a no brainer. I am sure there are at least 50 YouTube videos out there that will show how to do it.

I remember when arctic silver came out and they recommended that you spread it around the top of the die with a credit card or razor blade. wow, that was annoying.

 

To clean the thermal compound off i use a q-tip like david2kool mentioned but i just use that for the edges, i use a cotton ball for the rest of it instead of a cloth.
The pea method is the best way for a square shapped die. You can check out this page and see why its preferred over spreading it or the line method Application. If your die is rectangular you will want the line method though.

 

That is a great page for everyone to look at if you are thinking of repasting. Actually, if you look down at the very bottom of that page where it says "Application recommendation" , it tells you how to smear the heat sink. They call it "manual grease wetting". That is what I was trying to describe in my earlier post to fill the grooves in the heat sink. Thank you Hutsady for posting that. I'm sure that many people will get lots of useful information from it. I know I did.

 

I agree, I prefer the pea method myself, but some people on here like the spread method. Everyone has their favorites. I think it all boils down to what you were taught, or what you learned. Most people tend to stick to what they know. So, if you learned the spread method, then you would tend to stay with the spread method. If you learned dot, then you stay with dot. Very few people attempt to venture out of their comfort zones. That is why I mentioned both ways to D2 Ultima. So that he could make up his own mind. I have had more favorable results with the pea method. But that's just me.

 

So are you saying I should rub in the stuff on the heatsink then clean it off without using alcohol THEN use the pea method on my chip and apply as normal?

 

This is gonna sound like a really lame question... but how do you access the BIOS on the P375SM?
I got mine yesterday (4800mq, 2x8970 btw ) and it came with a pre-installed version of Windows 8. I've tried to access the BIOS by pressing DEL, F2, and F8 while rebooting, but Windows boots soo fast I can't even see which one is the access key, and I don't seem to be pressing the correct one.

 

It should be F2, but you need to press it BEFORE windows starts to boot. As soon as you hit the power button, you should start tapping F2.

 

I would recommend cleaning it off, then doing the dot method. Basically following the application Hoss outlined above. We both use that method, have long before we came here to Xotic, and both of us experience great results with it.

 

No I am sorry if I confused you. So I am going to lay out my procedure for you step by step. Keep in mind that this procedure is for a non-metal thermal compound. IC diamond is a good choice.

1 - apply alcohol to paste on the CPU/GPU with the Q-tip wait a few seconds for it to start to dissolve it.
2- Then apply some alcohol to the cloth and clean the heat sink and the CPU/GPU of any paste. (make it shine!)
3- now take the NEW paste and add a small amount of it to the heat sink and smear it around heat sink to fill any microscopic grooves or crevices. note: this does not need to be done if your heat sink is very, very smooth.
4- now wipe off any excess paste from the heat sink using a dry part of the cloth. This does not need to be pretty when your finished rubbing it in. That's fine. It is supposed to look dirty.
5- now make sure there is no dust or debris on the CPU/GPU and blow off any dust on the heat sink using compressed air can.
6- now apply a pea sized dot of the new paste to the dead center of the CPU/GPU.
7- now simply put the heat sink on top of the CPU/GPU and press down to release any air bubbles.
8- If you can, give the heat sink a small twisting motion while pressing down to allow even more air to escape. If the setup allows it, if not, don't worry about this step.
9- now simply clamp down the heat sink and screw everything back in. **DO NOT LIFT THE HEATSINK OFF OF THE CPU/GPU**
10- plug the fan back in and enjoy.
FYI- wear gloves if you can. The paste is tough to get off of your hands once it is in your fingerprints.

I am sure everyone here will add their 2 cents. But if your nervous about it, don't be. If it doesn't work out for you, just do it again. Although, once you do it the first time, you will have no problem doing it again. If you don't get the drop in temps that you want, just do it again. I would have to say that the most important part of all this is the cleanliness of the CPU/GPU and the heat sink before you start applying anything. Second would be, applying the heat sink to the CPU/GPU. Meaning don't lift it off the CPU/GPU at all. Good luck. I hope this helps.

 

Hey after I wrote that little repasting tutorial I went to YouTube and found this video. It is very similar to what I described in my last post.

 

Thanks sir!

 

My two cents. Clean both surfaces. If the heatsink feels and looks smooth, then don't bother "wetting", just put a dot in the center, and press down, and keep pressing down while tightening the screws. You can test it by looking at temps, or you can pull it off and see if you got even coverage, without too much overspill. Then try again. As long as you get some paste on their and tighten the screws, it is hard to really mess it up. So it is pretty safe to try. Now the liquid metal ones are risky, so I advise newbies to stay away. Lastly, I am open to better techniques, as one it they are backed up with hard data. The IC site is pretty good, although the do have a bias.

 

I've always had the best results pushing down on the heatsink while tightening with the right amount of paste in the centre too.

 

you are absolutely right ajnindlo. I neglected to mention that to D2 Ultima. I made the assumption that he would be using IC Diamond. If D2 is using something like arctic silver 5 or any other metal based thermal compounds, you really have to be careful of overspill. Metal is electrically conductive, and if you apply it incorrectly, you can mess up your CPU temps. I would stick to the non-conductive materials. IC diamond is a good choice for your first time. It is 92% diamond powder so it's a little expensive, but the viscosity of the paste itself is very thick and is less prone to air bubbles because of that.

Oh, and ajnindlo is also correct about not having to "wet", or smear the thermal compound on the heat sink, if the heat sink is REALLY smooth. I do it anyway, but that's me, I am a little OCD about that kind of stuff. Sorry that I forgot to put that stuff in the previous post. I should go back and edit the post so that if someone else reads it, they don't get confused.
Good luck D2 Ultima.

 

I am using IC diamond, so I suppose I'll just try the basic clean --> dot --> push while tightening first. It really can't get much worse the way I see it. And if it does get worse, it'll simply downclock the crap out of itself, and I can monitor its speeds. So I don't think there's any real danger past static issues. I'll try to get some cotton balls and qtips for the job. My friend's getting a tube of IC diamond and when he's done with it, he'll send it for me to use it. Since I would otherwise have to import it myself, I'm just gonna wait a little bit to get it. It won't kill me, I know how to avoid the super hot games.

 

I know this will sound like a longshot, but I remember reading on an earlier post, that someone was having a similar problem with temps. They resolved the issue by simply checking that the crews holding the fan/heatsink were tightened down all the way. In that person's case, they WERE a little loose and tightening them down solved the problem.
Like I said...It sounds like a longshot, but you never know till you try.

 

Ah good, I'll try it when I give it a cleaning out this weekend.

 

The problem with wetting the surface is you are likely to introduce air bubbles as the two liquids meet.

 

Let us know how everything works out for you. :thumbsup:

 

I know this is a bit off topic at the moment, but I have a quick question about my P375SM:

How do I get the Thunderbolt port to display an image? I have used a Mini DP to DP cable, and the only thing that has happened is it seems to be getting some signal but not displaying an image. I have tried changing setting in the bios to DP++, legacy and the other option (not on lappy atm so im not sure what it is). I have tried calling and emailing the wholesalers I bought it from and they have spent a month and a half trying to work it out on one of there machines with the same monitor and still have still not had any luck.
Do I need a certain Mini DP cable to make this work?

Cheers

 

Well I tried cleaning my laptop... which apparently had no need of such actions, as it had so little dust I could dirty things more with a single sneeze. I'm thoroughly impressed.

Also, I tried very slightly slackening and then rescrewing down the heatsink on the CPU. It was already really tight, but just wanted to be sure. No difference. Looks like I need a repaste.

Also, the bracket holding the fan appears to be sort of loose, though the fan itself is screwed down. Like, I can sort of lift it, and it looks like it could do with a screw, but I don't really see a place to screw anything. Probably just by design, but just found it odd to note.

 

Try the FN + F7 key to manually change the display mode on the laptop.

I use my laptop with the display port out to a 30" monitor with no problems.

 

Well, you never know till you try. At least now you know it wasn't the screws.

Oh, and nice job on keeping your notebook clean.:thumbsup:
When I clean my computers out every year. I usually have to take them out in the garage to blow out all the dust and vacuum out the dirt because they are so filthy. So, kudos to you.

 

I take mine apart so often they don't get a chance to build up anything, same thing for the desktops I owned ^-^

 

Hello guys!
I'm looking for the owner's of EUROCOM X7 / Clevo P375SM / Sager NP9390 with 120Hz display. Is here such lucky people?

 

I've heard P375sm never gonna have 120hz because of the type of connectors, it only offers on p370sm.

Sent from my SGH-M919V using Tapatalk 2

 

EUROCOM officially offer's 120Hz; 17.3-inch (43.9cm) FHD 1920x1080; MATTE (Non-Glare) Wide Viewing Angle; eDP; LP173WF2 as an option for EUROCOM X7 / Clevo P375SM on their website. I had a conversation with their manager and he confirmed that. Clevo P375SM still is not 3D capable, but im interested in 2D 120Hz only.

 

I think many people interested in clevo p375sm 120hz screen. Me too I like 2d 120hz.

Sent from my SGH-M919V using Tapatalk 2

 

I'm enjoying BF4 at 100% maxed ultra settings at about 50fps. Not really taking advantage of the screen in this case, but damn am I taking advantage of my CPU and twin 780M's!

 

Thats exactly what I have been searching all these two days , I would like to know if the P170SM has worst cooling than the P370SM or not.. I will only install the GTX 780m and thats all , am not really thinking about future dual .
But really undecided whether to opt for the P170SM or P370SM , I prefer it to be a bit "slimmer" and lighter since I only need one GPU, what do you suggest ?

 

Thats exactly what I have been searching all these two days , I would like to know if the P170SM has worst cooling than the P370SM or not.. I will only install the GTX 780m and thats all , am not really thinking about future dual .
But really undecided whether to opt for the P170SM or P370SM , I prefer it to be a bit "slimmer" and lighter since I only need one GPU, what do you suggest ?

 

Is that the same cooling system like the p370sm ?
ps: anyhow I will be running it on a single GTX780m

 

The P370SM3, P370SM, P375SM all have the same cooling system, and it is improved over the P370EM from what I hear.

 

I'm getting about 80-150fps maxed, what the heck are you doing differently O_O

 

Aha , well I asked several reps about the difference in the cooling system or heatsink between 370sm3 and 375sm but still to get an answer from them :/ ..

I would like to know how loud are the fans ?
Some reviews say its sound is higher than normal (and annoying beyond 50dbs) , and that the heat levels are high , but from what i read on the forum until now , I guess it depends on the quality of the thermal compound and how well it is applied .

I want to order the p370sm3 , 4700 with a single gtx780 but am very undecided on whether to opt for

90% gamut glossy screen , or

120hz 72% gamut matte screen !!

And I can't see them in reality to choose !

The glossy screen is AUO B173hw01 v.4 and on YouTube there is a video showing its colors and it really looks amazing , the colors so vibrant , lively and crisp/sharp (probably as close as it gets to an IPS screen) , in game this would help , and when/if I would be bothered by the glare I can easily apply a screen anti glare .

But I don't know if I should opt for the matte just for its 120hz property :/ . becoz the matte finish has washed out colors , not so sharp/crisp finish and is dimmer becoz its 120hz (at least that's what I have read)

Someone plz help me make up my mind

 

If you are going to game, there it isn't even a question in my mind, 120hz. If you are going to watch shows/movies or go into some graphic work where you do need to see every color, go for the 90%. Coin toss also works

Also I think they discussed the differences between the two models early in the thread. Don't remember where and I cannot check due to my painfully slow (temporary) internet.

 

auo b173hw01 v4 90% glossy vs auo b173hw01 v5 72% matte

they are compared here in the video below

auo b173hw01 v4 90% glossy vs auo b173hw01 v5 72% matte - YouTube

 

Dude please, use the edit button. To answer your question: There's pretty much 0% difference in cooling between P375/370/177/170SM. And if there is, it will be almost non-existent.

 

Really depends, what is your main purpose of having the laptop? I would guess gaming/entertainment, then go with glossy if you dont have too much lighting in the background, otherwise go with matte.

Also regarding the fans on the P370SM are pretty quiet I would believe if you don't rev it too high. But if you still cant stand the loudness use an external cooling pad.

 

I placed my order with Abe at Powernotebooks.com (who was very helpful and informative.) for the Sager NP9380-S.
NBR user wraven tracked XoticPC's start to finish time on here and I thought it would be helpful for others to see how the whole process works using PowerNotebooks.com. Keep in mind that this is a stock system with very few upgrades/alterations/embellishments. So, if you plan on skinning the system, or laser etching or custom paint, this is probably going to add a few days to the overall build time. I will update the post as new information comes in. These are the specs on the laptop build:
1 Sager NP9380 - GTX 780 - 3D Special - Gaming Laptop
17.3" Full HD (1920x1080) 120Hz 3D 72% NTSC Color Gamut Matte Display (Model LP173WF2 (TP)(B1)) w/ 1 pair nVIDIA 3D Glasses
30 Day "No Dead Pixel" Guarantee
nVIDIA GeForce GTX 780M 256bit w/4.0GB GDDR5
Intel Core i7-4700MQ (2.4~3.4GHz) w/6M L3 Cache - 4 Cores - 8 Threads
Sager Thermal Compound
16GB (2x8GB) DDR3/1600 Dual Channel Memory
750GB SATA II 3GB/s 7,200 RPM Hard Drive
RAID Disabled
6x Blu-Ray Reader/8x Super Multi Combo Drive
9-in-1 Memory Card Reader (MMC/RSMMC/MS/MS Pro/MS Duo/SD/Mini‐SD/SDHC/SDXC)
Built-in Intel Wireless-AC 7260 802.11 ac/a/b/g/n + Bluetooth 4.0 (Dual Band)
8 Cell Smart Lithium-Ion Battery 89.21Wh
Full Range 330W Auto Switching AC Adapter
No Sager Logo
1-Year Parts and Shipping plus Lifetime Labor and 24/7 DOMESTIC Toll Free Support (Labor & Support paid by PNB)

So let's see what the process is like....shall we.

10/21/2013 - Placed order at 10:35am pst. and received confirmation of order specs at 10:36am pst
10/21/2013 - 11:12am Received call from Charlotte to confirm order and give instructions on how to pay with cash to expedite the processing. (which I requested) I also got a email with all specs and written instructions as well.
10/21/2013 - 1:01 pm. Made deposit for laptop in company account and received receipt of Deposit. At 1:23pm I called to confirm payment was received and confirmation was given.
10/21/2013 - 5:40 pm. Received email confirmation stating that, "Your order has been given to the SAGER Production Department and can usually ship within 5-7 business days." This is a fast start for PowerNotepooks.com. I want you to notice that only 4 hours passed from payment confirmation to order placement...WOW!
10/31/2013 - 3:46pm. Emailed Abe at Powernotebooks.com to find out why Notebook has not shipped.
11/1/2013 - 9:34am. Emails me back stating that the Laptop is on Back order with Sager and that it will ship on Tuesday November 5th. (Personal Note: Great start for Powernotebooks.com but really wish they would have emailed me sooner than 11 days after payment to tell me that it was back ordered.)

will update as soon as info becomes available.

 

Thats exactly the way am gonna order mine too , but I dont know why did you opt for the 9390 (p375sm) rather than the 9380-s (p370sm3) , or I guess you just had a typo there !
its very unfortunate that it is taking so much time ! Am coming to the US on the 12th Nov and leaving back to Germany on the 21stNov , so I dont know how I would be able to receive it before I leave !! lets hope they will be fast with all this process!

cheers

 

Your right, it is a NP9380-S (Clevo p370sm3), it was a typo. I stated it correctly later in the post, but I can see how it would be confusing. sorry.

 

Are you sure you are maxed out? I get average 60+ fps with two 780m's.
your result is more like maxing out 2 desktop 780's