*** Official Sager NP9877 / Clevo P870TM-G Owner's Lounge! - Phoenix 4 ***

Tearing can happen at any FPS at, above, or below the monitor's refresh rate if VSync/G-Sync is not enabled.

 

That's a wholeeeeeeee different topic.

We were talking about maintaining 60fps while gaming at 4k settings, on a 4k monitor, on a desktop SLI setup.

 

Right, but it sounded like you were suggesting that tearing only occurs when FPS exceeds the refresh rate, which is not true.

 

I never said nor suggested that. I simply stated it tends to follow when once the gpu's frame output surpasses the monitor's refresh rate. No where does that say or suggest "Only". You're getting off topic from my op and battling semantics dude...

 

True. Nothing about hz involved other than when @D2 Ultima mentioned he was using 120 plus upscaling.

You said you were getting low FPS not Low Hz. And if you locked fps at 60Hz, you wouldn't get past 61 FPS on a 4K monitor.

But I do see where you missed the part about me asking if he was using a true 4k screen and he said no he wasn't. So maybe that is where the confusion came in. Because you roughly asked about the same question later on down the page.

And 4k@120 or higher does exist, just not to the public. They had 2 at CES last year. and Hopefully they will have more this year.

Asus ROG Swift PG27UQ and Acer Predator XB272-HDR

As to if that is a true 144hz....wont know till we put it to the test.

 

Yes, I did say that. I only get 40-55ish fps on certain games on my desktop with the aforementioned setup. My fps on my desktop isn't locked at 60fps, I don't use vsync either. My monitor is a 4k @ 60hz, so there is that. I'd like to think i'm decently versed in computers.

And since you seem to be battling semantics, I suppose I will too for a sentence or two. I did initially miss the part where he said that, but if you noticed I quoted the message after that, acknowledging that he said that he wasn't playing on a 4k monitor. Thus proving my initially point to begin with. Because 4k settings on a 1080p or 1440p screen, is NOT 4k gaming, figured I'd add that since this seems to be all about semantics.

I'm also aware 4k @ 120hz exists, as a matter of fact, I've already mentioned that, lightly, again had you read my prior posts.

I am with you though, I can't wait to see where that road leads us. I definitely want to game at 120hz+ someday, without needing to pay for it with a kidney. lol
For now, my little 2 60hz monitors are doing just fine. As I've mentioned before, I'll try and post some picutures to give you more insight on that, once I return back home off leave. But I definitely think I enjoy gaming on this laptop at 1440p wayyyyyyy more than my desktop.
This screen isn't half bad at all, It's just been a smooth game play. It's been quite an enjoyable experience, so I'm thankful for finding HID evolution when I did.

Moving forward though, anyone had any keyboard problems with these series of laptops? I keep noticing my becomes unresponsive quite often and sometimes even a restart won't fix it. Driver appears to be up to date. I'm not quite sure what could be causing it. I should add that sometimes, hitting the window key makes the entire keyboard responsive again.

Also, Merry Christmas folks.

 

4k at 120hz exists, yes, but no consumer video card and monitor can use this yet. It requires multiple inputs and connections. You can't pull this amount of bandwidth on a single current Displayport specification.

 

@wtjwillis

I would have to test the same games you are to verify the 40 to 55 ish claim. Without me doing that, I will leave that alone.

No semantics. Hz are hz and fps are fps. And they make a kind of a big difference when using smaller resolution monitors vs the actual size. (I have 3 4K monitors 2 27's and 1 55") I Already had a 144Hz 2560x1440P Asus, but took it back. I don't do that much gaming on my desktop. So it was more of a "hey look at me I have 144hz" Once that got old it went right back. Since I already had one on the laptop. I don't need 144hz to bench.

As to the 4k@120 Hz or higher. That was actually meant for someone else.

On to new business.

I haven't ran into that problem unless my overclock fails. then i get that and soon after the whole system crashes and needs a reboot.
Running Windows 10 1709 16299.64

 

I always run benches on the internal monitor, higher refresh rates can actually lower your scores ever so slightly I have found.

 

I'm not sure what you're saying. It's usually the "e" key that makes it responsive again or what?

I noticed if I press the windows key mine will sometimes be responsive again. Makes me think it's a software related issue.

 

The keyboard is unresponsive in general...it happened again earlier this eve. Origionally, i thought that it was just the e key but, it's the entire board at times...


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

You could always unplug the keyboard and replug it back in to rule out a potentially bad keyboard.

 

So I just got one of these for a dual monitor setup while im out and about:

https://www.amazon.com/MB169C-1920x1080-Powered-Portable-Monitor/dp/B01C83BE06/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1514271615&sr=8-2&keywords=asus+mb169c+

Has anyone gotten a USB C powered monitor to work on this thing? The machine makes the USB device connected sound when I plug the monitor and it powers up but there is no video output.

 

Glad to know I'm not the only one....

Now to figure out how to fix it.

 

Hi! i'm new in this forum, i want to have your advice, i'm thinking to buy a laptop, but i'm not sure about the quality. My 3 choix are: Sager NP9877-S, Acer Predator 17X and MSI GT83VR Tital Sli. I need the laptop to work on 3d design, animation and other stuff, so more than gaming is to do games stuff. Thank you (sorry for my english ).

 

Forget Acer Predator 17X and MSI GT83VR Tital Sli. Both are Jokebooks. Soldered 45W BGA chips even OC'd ain't a option.

 

If you want a portable workstation then listen to Papusan's advice and one more thing ask for prema BIOS specifically. My vote Sager NP9877-S. You may want to post the question in Which Notebook To Buy Section?
If you don't care/need portability go for Ryzen TR with AIO Lquid Cooling from Asetek and GTX 1080 Ti for your pure workstation. Do you use Autodesk or Maxon?

 

Once a single 1080 gets old enough, where it cant run games at 120 fps. Will a 120hz non gsync screen still tear and such or will it be hard to tell cause the screen refreshes too fast. I'm all for the x.4 version of the 1440p screen. Its just, I'm getting the single 1080 setup, so as the card ages it seems like the screen would have trouble not being as smooth as it could be. Or was...

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks everyone for your comments! really apreciate!

 

Does anything show in device manager?

 

It does not show in device manager.

Are USB C monitors supposed to work with this?

 

I have the ac version and it works fine. Make sure to use the right cables, I used an aftermarket one for added length, and couldnt get it to work for the longest time. Almost returned it. But found a proper USB c to a cable and it started working great. I can check in a little bit in device manager to see if it shows up.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

 

in the service manual I see that middle frame for TM is marked as "with CNC through", meaning its modified version of the previous middle frame.

 

Yes there's a screw for the keyboard that's changed position, but the screw is not needed due to the powerful magnets, so I didn't mention that.

 

Changed positions? I'm looking at the DM3 and the TM1 and they seem to be in the exact same place.

 

The thing comes with a cable.

What do you mean by "ac" version?

 

Different versions. Mb16b vs mb16b+ and the mb16ac.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

 

Really? The screw to remove the keyboard I was told by a couple users in this thread was near the middle GPU fan, rather than next to the CPU heatsink plate.

 

Maybe it's different on a KM1, but it sure ain't on a DM3 and a TM1. It's right next to the Subwoofer like it's always been.

 

I have been misled, then. On the KM1 I know it's the same spot it's been because @Mobius 1 told me a lot about his.

Aliens? Aliens.

 

Don't say anything about Aliens. I'm all about Aliens.

 

What's left of the Black Mail Box at 1:30AM


Little Alien Inn At 2am in the morning


Little Alien Inn


Road to Area 51


Road leading up to one of the back gates


One of the back gates leading in.


Camel dudes looking at us through the windows.


Washing my ride because she was looking really dusty!


After the wash

 

not only, there is a cut in the frame to fit the passive radiator from the CPU

 

DM, DM3, KM have the same spot for keyboard screw

 

i already had to reset cmos because fn+D wasn't good enough. though i dont own anything prior to tm1, kb screw is around the battery/subwoofer area, used a dm2/3 service manual to see it. in TM1 it even says KB.

however the hole to push keyboard out (originated by CPU heatsink) is still here, but is now covered by the bigger cpu heatsink which is a pain. need to remove CPU heatsink + fan in order to push out the keyboard. unless someone else find another place to push or another solution..

 

Y

You should be able to pry up on the keyboard using the small bar between the number pad and the rest of the board. That's what I did anyways. There are small lift points that surround the board that you should be able to get a pry tool in.

 

Through the middle fan.

 

dat might work because i only have 1 GPU.

 

A thin screwdriver will fit between the blades even if the fan is there.

 

Oh, it was the hole. Also wow that's REALLY stupid

Sent from my OnePlus 1 using a coconut

 

@ole!!!
FN+D does work, but sometimes it takes longer and you have to hold it between reboots.

The hole/screw marked K/B IS where you push the keyboard out. (You of course need to remove the screw first! Which a lot of people seem to no have missed. )It was designed this way. If you look at the back of the keyboard you can see the piece of metal sticking out of it.

@D2 Ultima

It's actually not a stupid idea at all. It's pretty damn smart. That's if you have a small enough screwdriver to go through to push it out.

Side note. Or do like what a few of us have been doing.....Add tape handles till your done tinkering then remove them.

Yes, keep sticking things through fan holes and you will be spending 100 dollars on a new keyboard or anything else you may break.

 

i can remove the 2nd GPU fan as its not doing anything, heatsink for 1070 only goes to 1 fan not 2 like i was expecting thats probably for 1080 instead. i can remove the fan and push the keyboard with my finger that way hope i dont break anything. my original thought was to remove KB screw and get something small enough to push keyboard out from the same hole but worried i might damage it, i pushed real hard and it wasnt moving man so i had to remove heatsink to push from the bigger hole with a bigger screw driver.

 

The middle fan should be sucking air from the front over your storage drives, I wouldn't remove it. If it's one thing these units do well it is airflow

No, I completely meant removal of CPU heatsink to remove keyboard is stupid. The tape mod I know, but it isn't something I find someone should "have" to do, especially with it not being required on previous gen models and on models like the P370 and P1xx and D900x where it wasn't even remotely required at all.

Sent from my OnePlus 1 using a coconut

 

do you mean pcie drives?

also i think john meant to say getting a bigger heatsink is smart but blocking that hole certainly isnt especially people were use to the location of it.

 

Both sata and PCI/e drives. Check your front grill, see the air opening on the right

Sent from my OnePlus 1 using a coconut

 

I'm lost? Who is removing the cpu heat sink to get the keyboard out?

 

You just need to push hard.



That is what that round piece of metal is for. To NOT break the keyboard.

 

I'm going by what ole!!! said below

Unless you can just do it via the screw hole? I'm now confused T_T

 

@D2 Ultima
Trust me on this. When I first tried it on the TM1 I thought they added glue or something. Vivian said I had to push real hard the very first time.

Yes friends, I went out like a straight noob with unlimited machine gun rounds on a level 2 weapon.!

I feel so ashamed...