*** Official Sager NP9877 / Clevo P870TM-G Owner's Lounge! - Phoenix 4 ***

u can but i didnt do it due to fear of breaking something with too much force. so i proceed to disassemble heatsink and go through the other way.

 

You can actually push the keyboard with a toothpick through a KB screw hole on Dm3 and KM1, just cut off the sharp edge.

 

Or a Q-Tip with the cotton bud removed from one end.

 

I've done that too with one of those jewlery/watch sized screwdriver sets.

 

3200mhz cl16 or 3466mhz cl17 64gb set, which one?

 

3466MHz cl17 for certain

 

no guarantee it'll work though @Johnksss did get his to work at that frequency i think, donno what other things he had to do in order to get that speed stable tho

 

The cheaper of the two, you wont see a real performance impact.

 

These 2 screens are completely and utterly different and cant even be compared. 1 uses USB 3 the other is USB C. I'm very specifically asking about the USB C version and couldnt care less about the USB 3 version.

 

@Johnksss

hey quick question, im using nvidia inspector to try unlock voltage to undervolt but all grayed out at every p state. cant even activate a pstate with it, does that mean we need unlocked vbios for it to work? i havent touch GPU for yrs lol

 

If it's locked then none of that stuff really works. Matter of fact. It never worked on mobile Pascal cards in that way.

The only real way to control voltage is to use Afterburner or EVGA precision.

 

So I finally switched mine on for the first time and I have to admit I was fearing the worse thinking I'd bitten off more than I can chew. Well I manaed to get a undervolt on the cpu and I hope gpu. Ran a few tests and found fairly high gpu temps so was worried I might have to do something internal, but tried a few games first to find the highest temp on gpu 1 was 70c and the fan noise was amazing my wife didn't complain once about it.

I think I need to do the win 10 setup but all in all I'm really happy with this laptop and looking forward to years of gaming with it.

 

I did have one question, is it normal to see around 10c to 15c differece in sli between the gpus?

 

Regarding ram what would be the max mhz that would work in this laptop? I we going to buy another 2400mhz stick to match what' in there, but would I see much benefit from replacing it all with faster?

 

Ok so the gpu undervolt didn't stick after restart does anyone know how to make the gpu undervolt stick? Can I use the clevo command centre to undervolt?

 

Eurocom Sky X9C (i7-8700K, GTX 1080 SLI, Clevo P870TM1-G) Laptop Review
https://www.notebookcheck.net/Euroc...I-Clevo-P870TM1-G-Laptop-Review.274230.0.html

 

3000Mhz is the fastest that will see you get gains, it's still a pretty slim gain though.

SLI temps can differ by a fair bit yes.

Also you can edit posts rather than posting one after the other.

 

I personally have only seen around a +/- 5 or 6c difference at load (and about 2c difference at idle) on my SLI setup, but as I've learned on this laptop, YMMV.

 

You are looking at different loads and even calibration differences between the sensors...

 

Hey man, figure out a fix yet?

Pressing my windows key when this happens is seeming to make the keyboard responsive again for mine.

 

No. The temps should be within 5c at most if the contact and paste job is good on each.

And for the love of meowmix, consolidate into one post. There's an edit button.

 

Sorry I did get a little carried away. I think I will send it back for the reseller to do it then.

 

Do it yourself a few times, learn it. It'll benefit you in the long run. I hope you're using good paste

Sent from my OnePlus 1 using a coconut

 

I'm only seeing the difference in benchmarks, in gaming it's no more than 7c difference.

 

They used EK thermal paste on it. I am really happy with the temps. It's just the difference I was worried about.

 

Get yourself some thermal grizzly kryonaut or some gelid gc extreme or phobya nanogrease extreme and use that and just try yourself

Sent from my OnePlus 1 using a coconut

 

Thanks for the help, I guess I'm gonna have to do it at some time, might as well be now. I was planning a ram upgrade and bigger ssd so might as well do it all at once. Will I need to change the thermal pads?

 

You probably should depending on vendor. If HID probably not

Sent from my OnePlus 1 using a coconut

 

It came from a UK vendor who doesn't offer any more than a paste upgrade.

Can you recommend any good pads?

 

@bloodhawk

 

Read UPDATE - Thermal Pads (Arctic Cooling thermal pads).

 

Arctic 6 W/mk
Or/and FujiPoly 11 W/mK

If you are doing this for the first time, then get Phobya for the thick ones and rest Arctic.

 

This will be my first time. When you say thick what size is that 2mm?

 

The 3.5mm-4mm and the 2-3mm ones. I follow this layout that Prema posted a while back -

 

What I said still applies, without testing the cards swapped round a couple of times it's hard to point to any one thing it could be.

 

i tried afterburner and its no good even with latest version, voltage is locked. how do you and @Mr. Fox overclock it just default voltage that wont get very high would it?

@Papusan @TBoneSan @bloodhawk and whoever else got 870dm1/2/3 wish to upgrade to a 870TM heatsink and possibly adding a fan + power splitter for it.

in 3rd picture with two red circles. cpu heatsink screw is quite a bit lower than the elevated metal piece in the other red circle. overall 5cm x 5cm and 0.5-0.6cm fan would definitely fit. https://de.aliexpress.com/item/FOXC...-717a-402c-b586-cd0d0240b9bd&rmStoreLevelAB=5 papusan found this, maybe he can find a stronger one that fit

 

It will go higher than you would expect. One of the stupidest things about Pascal is also one of the best, depending on how you look at it. Voltage is locked, but it goes up as you increase core clocks, until it reaches the arbitrary limit imposed by the NVIDIOTS. That's where the overclocking ends. It sucks that we have no control over voltage, power limits and watts, but it's good that there is some overhead available and the automatic part works fairly well until you hit the limit. The more challenging thing is to hold the core clocks. If it hits 50°C and up, might as well not even bother with overclocking because it has a mind of its own and will throttle the core like a filthy son of a witch.

 

ah good bye to undervolt and force it on a lower pstate

 

Ok, you guys are starting to crack me up again.

@ole!!!
Afterburner does infact control voltage, but not like a Maxwell card.


Side note:
P870DM3
As to the heatsink mod. It will work it does in fact fit in the exact same location and will bolt right up Even without cutting the back for the air to pass through. The problem is very simple. I have been waiting to see if this would get mentioned, but it has not.

You only need to change the motherboard cpu stand off's to shorter ones.

 

Nice.

I did have a TM1 with me briefly. Though the bottom line for me being, im done with DTR's. Even my Dm3 will end up on the FS forums very soon.

 

My DM3 is going up for sale soon as well.

 

Maybe not so easy after all..
You need that part right there off a TM1. And i'm not so sure anyone has that for sale.

 

Being done with DTRs for me would be the same as being done with all laptops. I don't count turdbooks as real computers. They are just pathetic eunuch trash, LOL. I'd rather have no computer than own one of those worthless castrated POS.

That, or the measurements of the standoff height and mill down the long ones to the same height.

 

@Mr. Fox Hummmmm....

Looking into the holes....They are threaded all the way down. So shaving off some material would allow the heat sink to fall in place, but you get it wrong and the heatsink will no longer sit correctly. Motherboard will already be void the minute one starts grinding.

 

That's something you would want to take to a machine shop and pay someone to use precision machinery for that rather than using a Dremmel or grinder by hand. Ideally, they need to be machined to be exactly the same length for all four screws. But, too short is better than too long. In fact, too short wouldn't really hurt anything, as the springs on the screws are going to handle how tight it gets. Unless you bottom out the coils against one another and keep tightening it too much, then you're going to either bend or break something. I think the DM-G and DM3 CPU heat sink fit being hit or miss is possibly attributable to those standoffs being about 0.5-1.0mm longer than they should have been, and that is why removing the c-clips or adding shims helps on some of them.

 

Lets just say it has potential.
For that to be feasible you would need to get some new screws since the ones we have are machined to stop you from over tightening. They do not have much treading at the bottom of them. And the TM1 standoffs are not much higher than the motherboard itself.

 

Yes, I think so. But, it does need to be done with some precision to achieve the best outcome. Having them all turn out to be different lengths due to doing in by hand in your garage after work probably isn't a good idea. And, it definitely needs to be done with the CPU back plate taken off the motherboard, LOL. I bet most local machine shops would do it for next to nothing if you catch them at a slow time. They could mill them down easily and be extremely precise, just like milling the top of an engine block or truing up a slightly warped cylinder head.

 

@Donald@HIDevolution

I see you liking the post, but ummmmm.....Don't go back and tell Ted I'm messing with my shiny new computer. They may want to void my warranty. Shhhhh, mums the word.

 

HIDevolution.com is a wonderful company that, unlike the major global brands, believes that it is YOUR computer so you can open it up and clean it or do any upgrades you want without voiding the warranty. If you happen to break something while doing it you would have to pay for that repair, but even that won't void your warranty. About the only thing that will void your warranty is severe physical damage or a liquid spill.

 

That i'm already knowing!

I totally agree! I do have two machine shops on my client list that could do that, but........yes there is a but. I already have a TM1.

Food for thought for those willing to try it. Take your time!!!
If you fail, that is about a 400+ replacement part right about now.