2013 Series 7 chronos / Ativ Book 8 15" owner's lounge (NP770Z5E / NP780Z5E / NP870Z5E / NP880Z5E)

Interesting approach in that article you linked. Personally I DID use the $15 Microsoft upgrade offer for Win7 PCs (expired Feb 2013), and I DID download an ISO back then using this procedure and my Win7 Product Key (and a bunch of other validation that I don't remember anymore).

I don't know why it wouldn't work in your case. Did you request the same version as your current Win8 (Pro vs Standard)?

Unfortunately I am not aware of any other Win8 download sources, beyond the one for MSDN/TechNet subscribers and the Dreamspark one for students.

If others know of legal download sources, please share. But do note that we don't allow discussion of illegal or "alternative" downloads on the forum (Win8 or others). The one linked here by bintoito is from Microsoft directly (even if a bit roundabout) and based on entering a legitimate Product Key. So I'll say it's kosher unless we hear otherwise. Whether it works is another matter...

 

Nice recovery (of the non-Samsung variety). Perhaps appropriate to Photoshop your avatar into a facepalm - it's nearly there anyway !

But you have a point here, I too sometimes rush into installing or changing things that really don't need updating or changing, just to have the "shiny new toy" feeling - but then end up realising that I've rushed in too soon and should have read all the instructions first (mainly true with my QNAP NAS, for some reason!!).

 

I tried the same thing you did and got the same result :\. I looked everywhere online for an ISO and couldn't find one, so I just settled for a recovery installation. I saw someone else here got one from his co-worker, maybe ask some friends or something if they have one?

 

Hello again. I got some quick help last time I posted so I thought I'd come back here with my troubles.

Recently I seem to be having a lot of connection issues with my wifi, and I'm not sure why. The problem seems intermittent as well, some days I'm fine, other days I will disconnect every half an hour or even 10 minutes. What's also strange is that sometimes it will still say I'm connected, but websites will not load, and then 10-15 seconds later everything will be fine again.

I tried installing new drivers manually before, but this made it worse, and a few days ago I retried this through SW Update, with not much luck again. Just today I tried this:

But still with no luck. Any idea on what the problem might be? I am slightly far from my router but my signal strength is still high so I am not sure if that is the problem, especially as sometimes I seem to be fine.

 

This post lists the classic fixes to WiFi issues, particularly with the Intel 6235 adapter. Make sure to click the links within that post as well, that's where much of the meat is.

If none of that helps, you can try and roll back to Win8's built-in driver. Several members (myself included) have found it does a better job maintaining a stable connection. This post describes how to do that in a way that cleans out registry entries for previous driver versions in the process.

Let us know how that goes

 

That's a few things to go through! Will post here again with how they go, thanks

 

Is there a way or setting to disable the ambient light sensor for keyboard backlight? Or to keep it on all the time?

 

guys got a little problem,the laptop speakers would buzz sometimes like 2 or 3 seconds for no reason when even not listening to anything.this happens two times a day.

 

one other unusual issue i have is that if I play a game in less than native res it wont stretch to full screen. Instead it is a small box in he center of the screen. I tried the samsung drivers as well as beta drivers and same thing

 

In the mobility supported cards there are no 8xxx cards

Sent from HTC HD2 with Tapatalk

 

Hey,

has someone got the touchscreen version and could tell me if it is the same display being built in the 770Z5E? The AUO9003? I don't actually think that it can be the same and as mine is going back to the shop because of the stupid image retention i thought maybe i can give the touchscreen version a shot.

Thanks in advance.

 

Hope this resolves some stuttering issues with the beta 13.5 drivers... =)

 

You have a good idea there, I didn't notice that my avatar can be a potential face palm experience! =)

 

Ahhh! I'm having a new issue with this laptop! Aside from not having UEFI, my laptop will semi shutdown (black screen, keyboard unresponsive etc) so i manually have to shut it down.

Any help?

 

Ahhh! My laptop keeps having issues. Beside the fact that UEFI mode is missing, the chronos seems to be having a problem running things as it shuts down when there's too much to process. By shutdown, I mean it becomes unresponsive and the screen goes black.

Ex: Was running chrome while browsing this site and amazon.... and it shutdown.

I just ran the WEI and the first step (testing direct3D) proved to be too much of a load so it shutdown again...any help?

 

Yes, there are, look:

AMD Catalyst

Were you looking in the desktop section?

 

I just got the ATIV Book 8 and I'm curious what you're opinion on the system idle noise is. I find it slightly distracting, particularly a semi rhythmical hissing that seems to originate from the upper right corner of the laptop, like something constantly turning on and off. I happens even if there's no activity on the computer and while it's arguably quiet enough to be negligible, I can't help but get a bit annoyed by it. Does this occur to anyone else and do you consider it a nuisance?

 

Guys would a 9,5mm SSD fit into this laptop?

 

Hey guys, do you know why my wirless somtimes just breaks off connection for like 10 seconds or so. Happens like every half hour, hour. I have no clue what it could be. Help is appreciated. Btw i dunno how to reinstall drivers as SW update doesnt let me.

 

No I looked at the mobility cards, but opened the link to Guru3D.com posted by byron_hinson, not the official AMD site, and there they wrote something different. Well, happy to be wrong! Can't wait to read some impressions from you guys!

(Do you have plans for the weekend Pranktank? )

Sent from HTC HD2 with Tapatalk

 

The changelog is up on the AMD website. AMD Catalyst
And the drivers are also up for direct download. AMD Catalyst

 

Hei Dannemand sorry to reply just now...

If I recall it correctly, I just clicked links and it detected my system, so I didn't have the choice to go for pro vs standard.. apparently my key is "tied" to the oem version only and the one they offered is for the standalone one...
this will really annoy me when I eventually buy the ssd - waiting for the full release of the 840 evo so that the 840 "vanilla" lowers its price a bit.

(those good old days where I got some 3 or 4 windows 7 keys just for havingto one class in the informatics eng department...! now I'm working at the mech eng dep. but over here we don't have such luck..)

 

1. Make sure you haven't enabled either the Silent or Eco mode, both of which lock the CPU down to minimum speed.
2. Look in Task Manager to see what is hogging the CPU.

I believe not. There are plenty of 7mm SSDs that will fit without problem or, if you already have a 9.5mm SSD then they can usually be modified.

There's a long thread in the Intel forum about this problem. Various driver updates have fixed some, but not all, of the causes. You can see if there is a newer driver direct from Intel.

John

 

Thanks John!

I have another problem, When i plug in a usb 3 stick into my usb 3 port, the "Client Server Runtime Process" suddently explodes in cpu usage. Like 7-20 % cpu. It only does it on the usb 3 ports. the usb 2 are fine. No idea what that could be.

 

@everyone having problems with wifi, often disconnecting from ap, try this trick: go in adapter settings and under energy settings uncheck the box "the computer can turn off this device" or something similar. It should do the trick. Let me known if it worked for you.

 

Eco Mode is off, how can I check for silent mode?

Thank you John!

 

Back home from a long vacation and working the whole weekend and studying but I'll definitely make some time to test them . Man have I missed a lot on the forum .

 

Hope you had a good vacation, pranktank. Great to have you back

 

"The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly.
Error 41 in Event Log, Kernel Power."

And "The speed of processor 3 in group 0 is being limited by system firmware. The processor has been in this reduced performance state for 71 seconds since the last report."

It even does this in High-Performance mode..

Upon doing research, the issue may be due to CPU overheating..is there a way to see/control what speed the fans are running on?

 

Do you have another USB 3.0 stick that you can try? There seem to be some residual incompatibilities between hubs and devices. Also check the make of the USB 3.0 hub and Google for any firmware updates.

Silent mode is toggled by Fn+F11 (or another Fn key with a fan icon on it).

You can't check the fan speed but you can use a program such as HWiNFO to see and, if you want, log the temperatures and other parameters. If the cooling system is working properly the temperatures should be less than 90C. Once the CPU temperature gets over about 80C the fan noise should be very noticeable. Check if it blowing hot air. If the exhaust air is cool when the CPU temperature is high then there's a problem with the cooling system.

John

 

Is something wrong here? I have the 512GB Samsung 840 Pro. I feel like my usable disk space is kind of low and weird that it says it's not NTFS formatted, even though Disk Management says it is

 

The lost disk capacity is because the storage device manufacturers think giga = 10^9 while computers think giga = 1024^3.

I suspect the NTFS warning is something to do with Windows 8 and UEFI which use GPT as explained here. It might be safer to shrink your partition using Windows 8 Disk Management rather than Samsung's software which might not be 100% up-to-date.

John

 

Some recent WiFi experience for others having trouble.

I have had a fairly bad time with WiFi since buying the laptop. I wound the driver back to 15.6.0.19, which ran reasonably well and only dropped the connection every hour or two. I settled for that as every other driver I had tried was virtually unusable, including 15.8.0.5. In fact that was the worst of the bunch for me, and yes I installed it properly by deleting all legacy drivers.

Recently I updated the BIOS and at about the same time (but I haven't established a connection) by WiFi experience deteriorated. I was having connection problems several times an hour. However, the final straw came today when I tried to use WiDi for the first time having just bought an adapter for the TV. I could not connect the laptop (but could connect the two other WiDI devices in the house. But worse, attempting to connect WiDI crashed the adapter so that I lost all WiFi. Turning on and off flight mode usually fixes my adapter issues, but not this time. Nor did disabling and re-enabling the adapter. Only restarting the laptop.

First, I tried installing 15.8.0.5. My thinking was that maybe it would work with the new BIOS. I deleted all of the many layers of driver back to the Win8 stock driver and loaded 15.8.0.5. Again, this was utterly unusable. I could not load a single webpage or even connect to my home server. It also did not fix the problem with WiDi.

I then uninstalled and deleted 15.8.0.5. I forgot that loading one driver like that created multiple layers of driver that need deleting to get back to the stock driver. Thinking I was in the stock driver I tested the connection, which performed reasonably well. I then tried setting up WiDi and it loaded without any problems. Then I went back to the device manager and checked the driver info and realised that deleting one layer from 15.8.0.5 had brought me to 15.7.0.3.

It has been about 6 hours now and I haven't had a single lost connection, which is the best performance I have ever had with the laptop.

I still think the 6235 card is a PoS and Samsung should be providing us all with a replacement card.

 

The is about right for the default OP settings. You can change them if you like, but my research suggested it wasn't a bad choice for size vs lifespan. In fact, for some reason it looks like you've ended up with 2 GB more than me.

 

If you have problems with wifi disconnecting try this:

 

This occurs ONLY after putting the laptop through a sleep/wake cycle, there is a workaround which will fix the problem:
Restart the computer and press F2 to enter the BIOS.
Go to Advanced
Change "USB S3 Wake-Up" to Enabled (Default is Disabled)

You might find that you intermittently have problems after this change if you have a USB2 device plugged into the USB3 port (but it is only very intermittent) - when you try to shut down, it might stick on the "Shutting Down" screen, unplugging the device allows it to fully close!

See here for more info Microsoft Answers here for more info.

 

Finally picking this up from Best Buy today and I have some more questions (numbered form again for easy reading)

1) I won't have the SSD for another week or so, is there anything I can do on the laptop (as far as installing drivers, programs, etc.) that won't be erased when I replace the SSD and restore the recovery image? If not can I at least go ahead and export the recovery image?

2) Can the samsung recovery image be exported to an external hard drive that already has some stuff on it? Or does it have to "fresh"?

3) I read the SSD replacement tutorial in the OP and I'm pretty confused about the restoration part of it. Once the recovery image is on the external hard drive, what exactly needs to be done specifically? Is there a more in depth tutorial? What is the purpose of the part that says "Installing a fresh Windows Version, not from Samsung recovery! I used "Windows 7 USB/DVD download tool" to create an bootable Windows image."? I'm just generally confused about this process.

Edit: 4) Wouldn't it be easier to copy the image directly to the SSD via a usb enclosure or something? I don't know the workings of it so this could be totally off base.

 

Seeing that discussions about WiFi performance and stability has surfaced again, I summarized the remedies that I am currently aware of -- instead of always posting links to old posts, as I usually do

I first posted it here, then decided to move it to a new thread instead, as it applies to all Samsung models with 6230/6235 adapters.

Below is the link to the new thread. I suggest we try to gather discussion and knowledge about this subject in that thread instead of individual model threads.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/samsung/727499-wifi-remedies-samsung-laptops.html

 

please help

 

Good idea. As I posted, most of wifi problems should go away disallowing the computer to turn off the adapter in power profile of the wireless adapter.

 

First off, I guarantee you won't be disappointed. By far the best laptop I've ever bought.

If you're doing a factory recover instead of a fresh install (like I did) a few fairly insignificant things will stay. The desktop wallpaper and various personalization settings will remain (like autohiding the taskbar.) Driver and programs and stuff like that will not stay.

So a few things.1) I've read on this thread a few places that you have to use a USB and not an external hard drive. I didn't really ask for an explanation so it might've been a misunderstanding, but I just went and bought a 32 GB USB to do it. The recovery image will be a little over 16GB. It does not have to be a fresh USB, but making the image will erase everything on it.

Okay so here's what I did.

1) Boot computer, press F4 a bunch of times before and while the Samsung logo pops up to open up recovery. (Or just boot into Windows and open Samsung Recovery. Everyone here says do F4 but I did both and got exactly the same results. Apparently the actual program has a problem with Sandisk USBs, but I didn't use a Sandisk so I'm not sure.) Bottom left of the window will say "factory image". Select to save the factory image to your USB. Make sure you say you want a bootable disk. This lets you boot into the USB when you switch the drives. This will take awhile.

2) When it's done, shut down the computer, discharge the battery (use a pin or something to stick into the small hole on the back of the laptop and hold it for a few seconds,) and switch the SSD

3) Plug the computer it to reactivate the battery, insert USB, boot up and press F2 a few times to enter the BIOS. Disable Fast BIOS, Turn off Secure Boot and select CSM and UEFI OS (this was something they did for a fresh install, I did it too but I'm not entirely sure what it does. Maybe just leave it as UEFI.) The system should now detect your USB. Save and restart. If it boots into the USB, good. If not, go into the BIOS again and put the USB on top of boot priority. Now it should boot into the USB. Recovery should come up to let you reinstall Windows.

Flip a few pages back to around Tuesday, there was a bunch of discussion about this there

Any questions feel free to ask!

 

And that is one of the remedies I have mentioned in that new post. Others have found success with it too. Personally I have to say I consider that one optional. I have not experienced a need for it once the other changes have been made. But it really varies a lot what works best for different models, and even different units.

There is not one fix that has solved this for everybody so far. It was already a heated discussion before I joined NBR last summer. That's why I tried to summarize all the various remedies that I am aware of.

If you are know of or discover other ideas -- or notice errors in the post -- then please post them in that thread.

 

@izokronus: Follow the good advice from Sykton, who just went through the procedure.

A few comments I would add:

Although you can backup your Factory Image to an external drive (as you suggested) you have to use a USB stick in order to make it a bootable backup. Otherwise it's just the image files. If it isn't bootable, the only way to restore the backup is using Recovery -- which you probably cannot load when you need this (either after a disaster or after installing the SSD).

The beauty of that bootable USB stick backup is that it becomes your "Recovery on a stick": You can boot it anytime and restore to whatever disk is in the laptop, and no matter how messed up that disk may be.

That said, it is also possible to clone your disk directly to the SSD in an external enclosure. Recovery has a Copy Disk feature for that too. See this post for overview and this post and this post for details.

 

AMD 13.8 beta Graphics drivers seem to have fixed the Metro graphics corruption issue, unless my settings changes haven't properly taken effect yet.

My problems with Far Cry 3 in DX11 mode - dark rectangles on screen, and letterboxing when changing down screen resolution are still unsolved (neither occur in DX9 mode).

Performance - I can't really tell any difference, but I haven't been properly benchmarking either before or after.

 

Hopefully I don't jinx it by saying this, but my wifi problems seem to have gone for now - I have had no disconnections for 2 days at least. All my power management with regards to the adapter were set to highest already, so that was not the problem, but after changing my settings to TANWare's settings along with a change I saw on the intel forums, I seem to be fine. This change was just disabling 802.11n mode.

Thanks again for linking me to those old posts Dannemand

 

@TrafficCone: Thanks for reminding me about disabling wireless-N, I forgot that in my new remedies post. As much as I dislike advising users to go to back to wireless-G, I think it's indisputable that it has helped some 6235 users.

 

Brilliant, thanks to both of you, and thanks for your continued comforting presence in this thread Dannemand

I bought the laptop and it's indeed a beauty in both form and function. Now just have to wait for the 840 Pro to get here!

Is there a way to enable the three finger swipe to go forwards and backwards in Chrome? I think that happened by default on my previous laptop.

 

Mouse Properties->Touchpad->Options->Three Finger

 

Tried that, doesn't seem to be working :/

 

Also check the "secret" Touchpad configuration tool described in the recent thread linked below:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/sam...d-shortcuts-elan-touchpad-np700z3c-s02us.html