Samsung Series 7 Chronos NP700Z5A Disassembly Guide

What is a 2.4mm Phillips screwdriver? I can only see slotted in mm, Phillips seem to be measured in PH, I tried all my screwdrivers and none of them fitted! What are you guys all using?

Thanks

 

It is the Phillips #2 Screwdriver. Most notebooks use this size.

 

Ok thanks I will try to find this!

 

will this work: Stanley 065209 FatMax Screwdriver Phillips 2 x 125mm: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools ?

 

It will be better to buy one of the screwdriver sets with a selection of tips and a big handle (which enables better control) such as this. Or go to Maplin if you have a branch nearly.

John

 

I got this: Draper 09550 31 Piece Precision Screwdriver Set: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools but can't find a head that fits, the ph2 is massive and is no way fitting in that little screw, is it definitely a no 2?

 

I used this set: 15-piece precision tool set with soft handle | Screwdrivers | Ratings & Reviews | TheSource.ca

You need a 2.4mm Phillips for the case screws (the smallest one in the set I linked - PH00), and the next size up (PH0) for the hard drive mounting brackets (and the ODD drive, if applicable) screws inside.

 

I used a PH00 but it just wouldn't work,(is there a difference between cross slot and philips?) I was thinking about getting this set: Xenta 45pcs Precision Toolkit | Ebuyer.com I only want to do this once so don't want to muck it up!

 

It looks like that set should work. I don't know what a "cross slot" is. I can't understand why a PH00 isn't working for you - it worked perfectly for me. Does it look too big or too small? Make sure you are applying a hell of a lot of downward force on the screw before trying to twist it because those screws are usually in very tightly.

 

I'll try it again tonight, maybe the driver has worn. I'll buy some philips screwdrivers just in case though. Was it easy to undo once you had the right screwdriver?

I went for these in the end:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0001P18LO/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Wera-Kraftf...ef=sr_1_2?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1351694572&sr=1-2

they looked like quite good quality!

thanks

 

Some of the screws come out easier than others. The tighter ones really need a lot of downward pressure to avoid stripping. It wasn't that easy but not too hard either.

 

they all came out quite easily accept for 2 which look like they are going to be a bugger to get out! i'll try again when I get my new screwdriver!

 

If the screws won't come out don't force them. It means your driver is not really a good fit.

 

Haha it was good fit! not anymore I guess. I will try again when I get my good quality screwdrivers and then start to panic if that doesn't work, I've got a few ideas, Superglue, epoxy. I hope it doesn't come to that though!

 

Philips size 0 (PH0) fits the base of my Samsung Series 9. The next bigger size (PH1) fits the internal screws. Samsung haven't yet opted to use non-standard screw sizes.

John

 

yeah, after I was told 00 I went home and tried that and surprisingly it worked fine for about 9 of the screws, then 2 of the buggers would not budge and then stripped a bit I'll try again when my good quality screwdrivers arrive, shouldn't be too difficult!

UPDATE: I'm happy to report that my new screwdriver worked, only one screw proved to be a pain, which I used the P0 to remove! Now to source a screw...

 

Maybe one of these will fit.

John

 

Does anyone know where i can get spare screws for the 14" or 15.6" version?

 

Quite possibly! I may have to do a bit of glueing, I damaged a couple of the tabs on the casing and one of my USB ports plastic snapped, shouldn't be too hard to fix though!

 

So when removing hard drive how snug should that orange cable be against the hard drive? Further, it is a hard drive from an older windows 7 computer. Will. I be able to get it to work?

 

The orange ribbon cable should sit flat on the HDD as shown in this photo from the first post in this thread.



Legalities aside, don't expect a Windows that was installed on another computer to work. It will have been set up for a different set of hardware. If you are very unlucky the HDD controller will be different and Windows may BSOD and if you are very lucky you can get to safe mode and then remove and re-detect the hardware.

John

 

RE: Removing Backplate = Not fun at all
I couldnt feel my fingers so , i skipped removing the HSF for better cooling compound.
I dont have a drive caddy at this time. I thought I had one but not sure where it is now.

I would like to note the following:

Thank you very very much for listing the correct screw drivers. I had two cheap precision sets from HD, and Lowes, Figured one of them would have the PH2 2.4mm head. NOPE!

They had PH000, PH00, PH0, and PH1, almost identical assortment. Cheap .

I had a another husky presision set that had 2.4mm, an 3.0mm for HD screws.

Besides getting the top off and what went with chore, I was following the guide and noticed something different.

On the NP700Z7C-US01 there is a screw under the memory tab, posted o the motherboard layer. Yikes. I was pulling and pulling genty from both ends and realized something was catching.

I might be blind , but looking at your pictures I didnt see the same screw under the memory tab.

Just a note you might want to add.

Otherwise, my Sammy 830 is sitting nicely in place of the 1GB Seagate drive.

I used true image 2013 to back up the ISSD , and also the seagate drive including the recovery partitions. Not sure if all that was nessecary but it is what it is.

Installing Windows 7 Pro, Upgraded to win 8Pro for 14.99 from microsoft,


Guys, i payed $820 for the laptop from best buy 12/4/2012 on Win 7 clearance, so very pleased I could get this kinda kit for that kinda coin.

$820 , and 36 months no interest.


Very happy with the design, weight, screen etc.

I havent bought a laptop since buying a second hand acer travelmate 8204 back in 2006 i think.

What an upgrade

 

Added, mine was the Z5A that's why the screw position is slightly different.

 

awesome guide, btw, many hours later I got everything set up with W7 Ult.

Now am looking into Mountain Lion and Clover ....Should be fun.

I should have snapped photo of screw placement under memory section. It slipped my mind at the time.


Again great guide, I wouldnt have even begun to think how to take apart without it.

The best thing about this laptop is waking up in the morning and feeling the cool aluminum from the overnight air. Its just different than plastic.

 

Does anyone know how to manually eject a disc? I took the cover off the back and still couldn't figure how to make it eject. (I can't eject through the os)

 

See this thread.

John

 

I'm sure this has probably been answered somewhere, but from a quick browse of the thread(s) I've not found a definite answer. If I want to replace the 1TB HDD that came with my laptop, do I want to get a 9mm or 7mm SSD? From what I've found it seems that the 7mm drives are the ones to go for?

Ta!

 

Better to get 7mm as the top cover can bulge for some 9mm SSDs.

 

yknyong1 Thank you!

But smb know what's PLL in this notebook?

 

For the Z5A, definitely a 7mm drive. I had to exchange my 9mm because it was a millimetre or two too thick at one end, as yknyong1 indicated.

 

Hey havent been able to find anywhere where it says the size of the screw driver which should be used to remove ram cover, i think i remember it being 1.35 mm ??

 

It's whatever is a snug fit into the slot. Probably a Philips size 1 or size 0. It's advisable to have a selection of screwdrivers (or one handle with a selection of tips) to hand.

John

 

Phillips #2

 

Hi,

I recently got hold of a np700z7c sc2se and I'm just wondering if this version also does not have room for an additional 2.5" HDD. I assume that this is likely to be the case but this model does have a few changes here and there compared to the US model so I figured I might as well ask the experts.

If it has no extra HDD slot I want to ask - what sort of caddy can I install in this machine to trade my optical for an extra HDD slot? I am unsure of what will actually fit considering this is both so thin and is a slot-in drive. Does that matter or will like any 2.5" caddy just work? I would really appreciate it if someone could give me a concrete link to a caddy that would be suitable so that I have something to compare my options to when I go shopping and so I know what to look for.

EDIT: For example is something standard like this all that is needed?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-5mm-Secon...0?pt=US_Drive_Bay_Caddies&hash=item3a7a5bd4f2
or is something special needed because it is slot-in? I suspect it is not but I don't want to goof on something so simple.

Also finally, can I put the optical drive in some sort of USB enclosure so I can still have it as an option? I don't use optical media much anymore but its nice to have the option of carrying one around in the bag just in case I need one at some point. Pretty much same question here - I'm not certain what housing would work to contain it since its not a standard tray drive but slot-in. A concrete link to something that would work would be super useful to have.

EDIT: again something simple like this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/External-US...=US_CD_DVD_Blu_Ray_Drives&hash=item43aeaa53ed

Thanks so much for any help you can provide. I apologize in advance if some of this info has already been posted earlier in the thread. I am working my way through all of it now but its quite a lot =P

-Stigma

 

See this thread.

John

 

Thanks!

I did a bit of my own research and ended up grabbing these two though:
9 5mm 2nd SATA Hard Disk Drive Caddy Adapter Tray Replace UJ 862A UJ8A7AS UJ862E | eBay
External 9 5mm USB 2 0 Slot in Enclosure SATA CD DVD RW Case for Apple MacBook | eBay

It seemed to me like these are fairly standard parts being used in lots of models so I hope they work for this purpose.
Could you let me know if you see some obvious problem with these? I've perhaps been a bit hasty and already ordered but the cost isn't so much the issue more than that I don't want to wait 20 days for delivery only to find out that there is some small problem that I need to order something else to rectify

EDIT: The internal HDD caddy itself should at least be pretty safe as I found one that says that it is directly compatible to replace the exact optical model that is in my system right now. It wasn't so easy to find something quite as precise for the external optical USB caddy but I kind of assume that this is basically just a plastic box with a connection port and should pretty much fit anything with the correct form-factor.

-Stigma

 

Regarding the thermal interface being used here for the cooling system - am I correct in assuming from the pictures that there are no thermal-pads being used here but rather "proper" thermal paste?
I was thinking about doing a pass on improving this while I install my SSD anyway as from my experience the TIM is often applied rather sloppily from the manufacturer.
I know that this usually isn't needed and any improvemrnt will be marginal - but I am a bit f a perfectionist and given my overall experience with hardware I don't consider this kind of operation as a significant risk.

I would just like to know if I can use standard TIM just like I would do with any desktop cooler (I have lots of experience doing this sort of thing for desktops but not so much for laptops) - or is there a bigger gap or something that I need to take into account for this? Would some of the thicker TIMs be more suitable (like arctic silver for example) or doesn't it really matter you think?

Also, any suggestion for what would be the best way to measure pre and post temperatures? Since this is a laptop I guess that I might very well run into throttling issues if I run prime95 or another such benchmark to stress the system while measuring the difference, so what would be the best practice for getting an accurate result for the difference in cooling it may produce do you think?
I was thinking that the most accurate results might be gotten from using throttlestop and running prime stress on all cores but limit the multiplier to something reasonable (so I don't end up overheating - I only need an accurate equal-case number to compare after all and not necessarily the temp at max performance). You think this would be workable or do any of you have a better way to go about it?

-Stigma

 

I've never run Prime95 or Furmark on my laptop but I do some threading gaming, namely BFBC2 and BF3, that get the temperatures pretty high. I went in a few weeks ago and replaced the stock paste with Arctic Silver 5, but I'd definitely recommend some Artctic MX4 instead as it's non-conductive and has a higher thermal transfer coefficient. My processor temperatures didn't change from before the swap, but my GPU temperatures maxed out 5-6C lower than previously.

Although they don't use thermal pads, Samsung has a rubber pad around the CPU that was a little offset and I re-seated it. The GPU had some little plastic sticker thing that was also slightly rotated but I don't believe it's necessary. I straightened it regardless. The heatsink sits pretty tightly on top of the GPU and CPU as it should.

For temperatures, I just use Core Temp for the CPU and MSI Afterburner for the GPU. I don't do any sort of logging, I just do a little mental recording of the max and average temps. If you want to be more serious about it, HWInfo will do temperature logging so you can generate some statistics on before vs. after temperature measurements.

 

hello everybody.
I am from south america and last week i went to new york and bought a samsung NP700Z5C-S02UB equiped with the intel 6235 wifi+bluetooth card.
The laptop came with windows 8 (a pain in the a rse), so when i was in the us i started experimenting a lot of problems with the wifi, but i thought it was win 8.
So when i returned to my country i installed win7 (i wasnt able to make the ssd disc work with the win7 installation, so i installed win7 in the 1tb hdd), but the problems with the wifi signal continued, if the 6235 card is in n mode, i am not able to send NOTHING trough the netwrok because it disconects almost inmediately, and the conection speed is very mediocre.
I am considering selling this pice of carp and buy another one (in my country the only high end laptos available are de nv56 and ideapad y580, i am huge toshiba fan, but they sell mediocre products here).
But the oder thing i was wondering, if is posible to replace the crappy intel 6235 for the atheros AR9287 or the killer 1102, is this posible and recommendable??? or is better to sell the laptop and buy another one??? In case is possible and recomendable and those wireless cards work with the samsung, is it hard to replace it?? or i just need to remove the back cover, unplug the battery and remove the 6235 and place the new card?
Thank you in advance for your time.

 

Hello
I'm another guy from South America, from Peru exactly, that wants to ask you something. I have a Samsung 7 Series (the best buy model that comes with wimax) I'm trying to upgrade the HD to a Kingston Hyper 3k 240 gb SSD, I manage to install it and the BIOS recognizes it but when I try to install windows 7 it doesn't install anything, it shows a message that says that theres no driver and I need to browse the CD for this driver. I've google it and some people suggest to turn of AHCI and/or download chipset drivers, I did both thing, that but it didn't work

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks

 

@gonzagnr: please see my response here.

 

Try downloading and installing the latest driver from Intel, and ensure that you change the power settings for the wifi adapter to "Maximum Performance" for all of your power schemes. That fixed the wifi issues for me.

 

didnt work for me
And today i discovered another problem, i installed far cry 3 to see the performance, i didnt have a mouse usb at that time, so i was going to test it using the track pad as a mouse... if you hare holding a key (any key) in this case the w to run, the mouse STOPS WORKING until you release the key, i tested it while on windows desktop and happens the same, is anybody else with these problem???
I really hate this laptop, i hope i can sell it and get a toshiba

 

Yes - the mousepad is designed that way, so that you don't accidentally click it by brushing it with your palm when you are typing. It's a useful feature for work, but not for gaming. I can't imagine trying to play an FPS with a mousepad apart from for testing purposes anyway, so it's not a big problem in my view. This is certainly far from a great track pad though.

 

I spilled vegetable cooking water on my keyboard. I've got the bottom case off`on my way to removing the keyboard and rinsing it with distilled water. Any suggestions? In particular, which screws hold the motherboard down? Do I need to take off the heatsink ?

Meanwhile, sterling thread! Extremely helpful! A 1k thanks to all.

 

Man, I hate when that happens

Sorry, I couldn't resist. Good luck with the cleaning.

 

I do a fair bit of this kind of thing, both for myself and for customers, and a great tip I got from somewhere is- guitar plectrums! Or should that be "plectra"?

They are thinner, softer, and more flexible than credit cards/gift cards- and you can buy packs of a few dozen from eBay for a pretty notional sum.

 

hi,
a bottle of coca-cola just spill on the keyboard.

3 4 letters are not working properly ( hard to push little bit)

is there any way that i can reach under the letters ? i want to clean it.

easily ofcourse

 

You will probably find that the affected keys don't work at all tomorrow. An acidic sugary drink is among the worst of liquids to mix with electronics. See here for discussion of a similar problem.

John

 

i dont know how to remove the keyboard

do i have to disassembly all the parts ?

can i try to pull the keys and they disassembly from the laptop and i can clean the thing under them ? how can i take the keys away ? with a little bit force ?