Samsung Series 7 Gamer NP700G7C with AMD Radeon HD 7970M/Geforce GTX 675M

OK, let's see if we can get this installation going. Unless there is an actual defect or media corruption, it really should be very simple.

1) Yes, installing from USB is definitely faster. As long as you are aware that every time you install, Windows Setup will incorrectly create a boot partition on the iSSD (which SHOULD should have been on the main SSD, since the iSSD is unbootable). You will have to fix that each time, either by manually creating a boot partition and BCD store on the main SSD (as described in post #1 here) OR by manually copying boot files from the iSSD to the Windows partition on the main SSD and marking it bootable (as described in post #2 here).

I particularly advise installing from DVD in cases where there are other installation issues, to avoid diagnosing multiple problems at the same time. For example, several owners have reported that their iSSD fails after a year or two. If that were the case on your (second hand) G7C, and you install Windows from USB, Setup will give exactly the error message you are seeing. Of course the same would be true if the main disk cannot be written, regardless of installation source.

2) One other possible cause of Windows Setup being unable to write files, is if there is a mismatch between the UEFI setting in BIOS and the partition style of the disk. The majority of Windows Installation problems posted here the last two years are caused by issues relating to UEFI/GPT (as used on Win8.x models) vs Legacy BIOS/CSM/MBR (as used on Win7 models). Very briefly, UEFI (the new alternative to good old BIOS) can only boot from disks with GPT partition style (as opposed to the good old MBR style) and vice versa. Trying to install Win7 in Legacy BIOS mode (non-UEFI, so-called CSM) will fail if the disk is GPT. And if installing from USB, it will fail if EITHER the main drive (main SSD in your case) or the iSSD are GPT. Another reason I advise installing from DVD.

There is no end to the amount of confusion this subject has caused to users, and the support costs it must have incurred on Samsung and other vendors. The post here has some brief summary and links to articles -- which I think anybody should read before performing any Windows installation in this day and age. I apologize if you already know all that

Samsung models originally pre-installed with Win7 have a limited UEFI implementation and were delivered with UEFI disabled and Win7 installed on an MBR disk. Samsung models originally pre-installed with Win8 or 8.1 have a full UEFI implementation (including SecureBoot) and are delivered with Win8 installed on a GPT disk. Switching to "the other mode" requires wiping and converting the disk and re-installing Windows.

3) I don't know if yours is a Win7 or Win8 model, but let's go nuclear and cover all bases:

3a) In BIOS (F2) make the following settings (you may not have them all):

Fast Boot / Fast BIOS = disabled
Legacy USB = enabled
AHCI = Automatic
UEFI = disabled (Win7 models)
SecureBoot = disabled (Win8 models)
OS Mode Selection = UEFI & CSM OS (Win8 models)​

3b) Boot Windows Setup (USB is OK), open a Command Prompt (Shift-F10), and convert BOTH the main disk (SSD in your case) AND the iSSD (the small one) using following commands (of course you don't have to close and re-open DISKPART between each):

DISKPART (to start the Disk Partition manager)
LIST DISK (to show all your disks. Notice which one is the main disk)
SELECT DISK 0 (assuming 0 was the number of the main disk)
DETAIL DISK (just to verify that you selected the right disk)
CLEAN (to wipe the disk)
CONVERT MBR (to convert the disk to MBR)
repeat to convert the small iSSD to MBR as well
EXIT (to close DISKPART)
EXIT (to close Command Prompt)
​

3c) Exit Windows Setup, reboot into BIOS (F2) and make the following settings:

Boot Priority = main HDD/SSD ( not USB or DVD)
Fast Boot / Fast BIOS = disabled (no change)
Legacy USB = enabled (no change)
AHCI = Automatic (no change)
UEFI = disabled (Win7 models, no change)
SecureBoot = disabled (Win8 models, no change)
OS Mode Selection = CSM OS (Win8 models)​

4) Try installing Windows again, using F10 to temporarily select a boot device (I recommend from DVD). Assumign Setup completes installing files this time, stick as closely as possible to the install guide (post #40) except do NOT install ExpressCache (since your main SSD is faster) and install additional drivers from SW Update that are unique to this model (such as ModeShift).

5) Once the installation is (hopefully) running, you can tweak your BIOS settings to optimize boot time:

Fast Boot / Fast BIOS = enabled
Legacy USB = disabled​

If this fails as well, we have to suspect a defect either on the new SSD or the iSSD. Or a corrupt installation media. As you probably know, you can download all Win7 ISOs from Digital River.

I am crossing my fingers here. Please keep us posted

 

I'm giving this another go before I go to work!

One thing which may or may not be worth mentioning is I've been trying to install Windows 7 Ultimate as that is the only disc I have. Folling your instructions just want to point out that there is no Legacy USB option in my BIOS (unless I'm blind!).

Can the iSSD not be completely disabled / removed from these laptops as it seems to serve no purpose once an SSD has been installed!!!

 

Stone the crows, I was about to remove the SSD from the laptop altogether and decided to try unplugging it and plugging it back in and low and behold it seems to have worked (USER ERROR!)...

I've now managed to get Windows installed but not yet copied over any drivers (need to get the WiFi one tonight - I'm still not sure which one I need, my laptop model no is np700g7c-s01uk) - have gone for these (Wireless_16.11.0_Ds64). They wont install so I right clicked on my coputer and in the system type it says 32 bit. Oh dear, does that mean the windows 7 ultimate DVD I used was a 32 bit disc (when I really needed a 64 bit?). LOL!!!

https://downloadcenter.intel.com/De... (64-bit)*&DownloadType=Software Applications

Have to dash as I'm running late for work, will go again tonight with renewed hope! Thanks again!

 

I recently installed win 7 home premium that I bought when Windows 7 launched, all I had to do was use a different box to get the WiFi driver into a USB stick and everything was easy after that.

It looks like mode shift is no longer part of the sw update, but the dial is hardwired so there's no Software required unless you want the animations.

 

MeGaMaN i have sent you a pm.... :hi2:

 

OK, I understand, it happens

So, you solved the installation issue after the SSD was re-connected. That's great!

I recommend you download a Win7-64bit ISO from Digital River. It's free and completely legit, they host them for Microsoft (otherwise I wouldn't post it here). But make sure you have a Product Key for the version you intend to install.

Then go ahead with the installation as originally planned. Installing from DVD is still recommended (or manually deal with the ExpressCache issue if you install from USB). And yes, you want to save Wireless_16.11.0_Ds64.exe as your WiFi driver.

It should be easy sailing from here on.

 

Thanks yoshey I have just seen your PM's

A quick update - I have managed to get hold of a 64 bit Windows Ultimate SP1 DVD and have installed it onto the SSD. The WiFi drivers worked a treat and I've installed SW Update and installed a few select drivers / software (Sound, USB 3.0 Driver, Chipset Driver) and am currently downloading & installing 800mb of Windows updates.

Don't want to tempt fate but so far so good. Other that the Windows Updates and the latest Nvidia gfx drivers, is there anything else in the SW Update that I definitely DO want to install or anything that I definitely DONT want (ExpressCache? Intel Rapid Storage Technology?)

 

I didn't realize ModeShift worked without a driver. That's great to know, thanks for sharing.

I assume you installed Windows from DVD (not from that USB stick you mention), or you would have had the same ExpressCache boot issue as well.

Also, was this a Win8-delivered model? If so, did you keep it in UEFI mode when you re-installed? We normally recommend switching to legacy BIOS mode for Win7 installs since Win7 has historically had some issues in UEFI mode on Samsung laptops (though many have still done it and stayed in UEFI mode).

BTW, great to see you're still watching this thread

 

Good job.

Do NOT install ExpressCache, it'll only slow down your new SSD. I use Intel Rapid Storage myself, but it is a matter of preference, it isn't required. The list in the install guide is meant to cover the basics and nothing more. I am a lean kind of guy...

 

What about bios settings, enable fastboot, do I enable UEFI or leave it disabled for good?

Any suggestions for a free anti virus program!

 

MeGaMaN you realy should disable hibernate if you are using a non samsung copy of windows 7 it somtimes causes the laptop to lock up or bsod thats why samsung have removed it from ther oem windows 7.

 

Ok, disabled hibernate

 

You can disable Fast Boot once everything is running (speeds up boot a bit). UEFI is NOT to be changed after Windows has been installed. So if you disabled it, keep it disabled. BTW, is this a Win7 or Win8 model? (Does it have SecureBoot in BIOS?)

And I am not the right person to answer about AV, since I just use Win8 Defender (same as MSE). Never had a virus in 30+ years of computing

 

Windows 7 - no SecureBoot option in BIOS

 

Thanks. That simplifies everything

 

I bought it in July 2012 it had 7, I upgraded it to 8, but since I'm selling it I wiped it and reinstalled 7 fully back to current patch level updates and then wiped the free space on both drives with Eraser. So it's sitting in storage now.

 

Got it, thanks. Hope you sell it well. It's a great machine.

 

Runs awfully hot when gaming, guessing the gfx card is on the left!

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

 

Hi everybody,
I have NP700G7A.
I had Windows 8.1 until some days ago, and I had many problems but the notebook was always cool even in game mode.
Now I installed Windows 7, the original s.o. of this notebook, and everything now is fine and fast, but the notebook is very warm, especially in the center-right of the keyboard and especially in BALANCE MODE when the CPU is in idle too!
In game mode, yet, the notebook is cooler (maybe because the fan is more active in that mode?).
I want to ask you if somebody may give me some feedbacks if this strange behaviour is normal.
Otherwise I will think to back with Windows 8.1 even with some issues.
Thanks.

 

With Windows 7 you tend to have more eye candy with aero meaning the GPU gets a bit more usage. CPU will at first get more usage as indexing and other chores are accomplished. You have to wait a bit for the system to settle.

The older AMD version should run cooler as the nvidia will tend towards both higher power draw and heat. Not too sure if in 8 supports Samsung's proprietary 3D either, not that I am sure that even matters to you.

 

Any new ideas about my ec? One time i have accidently deleted the second hdd but then i re-initialized without any problem. Can this be related at all?

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Normally EC is initialized by task scheduler. Now it could be in initializing twice, once at startup then again at user login. Another area it can get loaded and cause issues is in registry under "run". You would need to go over the various areas to be sure this is not happening.

I am not sure what you have already looked at so I may direct you in areas you have already covered. As an example be sure Windows is not managing ANY of the iSSD drive.

 

What do you mean? It is shown in the diskpart but i cant use it as a storage.

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Hi,
What I don't understand is why it becomes warm (in the center of the keyboard) when it's in IDLE with BALANCE MODE.
If I am in GAME MODE it is cooler... Even if I stress it, it's cooler (because the fan running fast).
When it's in IDLE the fans are almost stopped, yes, it's silent but I am afraid that this warm will damage longer the notebook.
Now I have more two weeks Win7 so it should be settled.
I am with AMD.
PS: I had Win 8 for more than a year and it was ALWAYS COOL (although it had problems and was really noisy).

 

Right, this could be due to cooling policy. Go to properties and be sure the cooling policy for the GPU is set to active and not passive. Active will be louder but cooler.

Edit; active and passive go for the CPU as well, as far as being cooler usually equals noisier.

 

I need you to look into the "Task Scheduler" and be sure of only one instance of EC being launched. You also need to check MSCONFIG too along with any other self launching locations, such as start menu or registry run locations.

 

You won't find ExpressCache in any of the AutoRun locations. It is implemented as a service (Storage Stack filter driver: excsd.sys). It runs at a very low level, sitting just above the disk and file system drivers. It doesn't even cache on a file level, but on LBA level -- although it monitors files as well (through a File System filter driver: excfs.sys).

I don't want to give the impression that I know details or how it determines that the cache should be flushed. I can just see how it is implemented in terms of processes, that's all. It would be awesome if you can crack this nut

 

I know it shouldn't be, that is why I ask that he looks there too. Apparently it is doing something it should not be doing.

 

OK, I got it. I should stay out of it

 

No stay in, I am not all that smart that others viewing may catch something I'll miss. A good collaboration is way better than my individual ignorance. Just relaying my current thought process towards finding a resolution.

After this my thought goes to boot device. Being sure of two primary things. First the bios points to the correct HDD as the boot device. Then be sure there is only one MBR and it is on the primary HDD. If Windows is booting then once the low level driver is loaded swaps the drives it will cause a flush of the cache. Again this may not be the issue but another possibility.

In all my primary thoughts go to what could the system do, that it shouldn't, that will cause the problem but still allow it to be, or give the perception of, running normally.

Edit; as a secondary thought to the HDD drive being swapped out, have you tried only booting with one drive and if so are you sure this is not an install that tried to place the MBR on the iSSD?

Edit 2; at some point I may be away for a bit as I just got cool laboratory liquid ultra and plan to redo my system. Since I am retentive with normal TIM's I am sure to be at least 4 times as careful, and slower, with this conductive stuff.

 

Good thinking there.

Since the iSSD is not bootable in the first place, I don't think that scenario is possible. In fact, that's the scenario Windows Setup tries to create when you install from USB on models with ExpressCache: It creates its MSR on the iSSD (mistakenly seeing it as the boot device) then switches to the Windows partition on the HDD after boot. But this will always fail on first boot, since BIOS cannot boot the iSSD at all. (At least that is true on other Series 7 and 5 models).

That said, after such a failed installation attempt there WILL be an MBR on the iSSD, along with an MSR marked bootable. However, once the user fixes that boot problem (either by manually moving/creating the BCD store to the HDD or by installing anew from DVD instead of USB) he would normally wipe the iSSD in preparation for installing ExpressCache.

Although I don't remember the details, I seem to recall that vesayreve went through several rounds of initializing his iSSD and re-installing ExpressCache, so I doubt there is anything left of that original MBR on his iSSD.

Otherwise that should definitely be the first thing to try: Uninstall ExpressCache, initialize the iSSD with Minitool or DISKPART CLEAN, reboot, then re-install ExpressCache. One thing to keep in mind when doing this: If it is an UEFI Windows installation, the iSSD must be GPT (same as the boot HDD).

Edit: Wait, I get it now, reading your updated post: The G7C has two drive bays, right? so conceivably there is a second drive that could interfere with this if is booted. I had not thought of that.

I should add that, on my system, booting from one Windows partition (say my Win8 partition) then booting another through the boot menu (say my Win8.1 partition) does not flush my ExpressCache, as long as I keep booting the same partition and OS. But it DOES flush if I boot the other partition (either through the boot menu or by changing actual boot partition). However there is still only one MBR involved on my system (except the MBR on the iSSD, but it has no boot partitions).

 

Right, besides the iSSD we have 2 HDD's, while it is nice to have 2x 750GB HDDs this can also make it confusing when the system or bios swaps them around as they both look like the same drive. When I first installed the 480 GB SSD I had the issue of the MBR trying to go to the iSSD and then it tried the secondary HDD instead of the SSD, because the two drives were so different it was easy to see the error. Also with two HDD's it would be easy to get the MBR on one drive but have the other be the system boot up drive.

Again I'll be reaching for allot of straws but this is the general point, normal fixes have not done the trick yet. Another option is too switch the3 physical HDD's. The bios may be assigning drive 0 and 1 and then windows bios swaps them around. (actually if I remember hardware wise the HDD's are drive 0 and 2 with the iSSD being drive 1.)

Edit; as below attached with the iSSD as NTFS. Also SiSandra and how it lists devices 0-3.

 

Thank you for trying to help

I couldnt find any trace of EC on Task scheduler and there was only one instance in msconfig.

 

Primary HDD is MBR.
EC is MBR but i tried switching between MBR and GPT and it didnt help but i can switch to GPT if you want
Secondary HDD is GPT. Should it be MBR? I can switch to MBR if you say so forget the data loss. I'll do anything to fix this stupid issue. Maybe this is causing it?

How can i boot with only one drive? Delete the second one?

Good luck

 

Yes thats right. I have done that at least 4-5 times. It is not an UEFI windows installation. Its a standart one but i can do all these again if you want me to do.

 

My disk management;

Disk 0: Primary HDD, NTFS (why unallocated space? I dont have that)
Disk 1: EC (Not NTFS)
Disk 3: 2nd HDD NTFS

 

I am not sure if Windows 8 uses the 101mb unallocated as in Windows 7. I thought you had said your 2nd HDD was gpt? you mention NTFS in the last post and disk 3 not disk 2?

Edit, were you able to go over task manager and then the other auto launch area's? if so where does EC show loading, a screen shot please?

 

Oh my bad sorry it is MBR

There is no disk 2. Disk 0 1 and then it skips 2 so the secondary hdd is Disk 3.

And here is something: EC doesnt flush when restarted but it flushes when i completely turn off computer and turn on again.

 

The HDD should not be disk 3, i will get back in a bit.

Edit; ok back had to get my laptop. OK first off both HDD's should be NTFS or GPT but both should not have an MBR, only one should. The secondary drive could be an issue so my suggestion is too shut down and physically remove the secondary drive. When you boot up the first time it WILL still clear the EC data. Possibly even the 2nd-5th times as well after that. After the 5th power up of the system hopefully EC will be at normal operation again without a secondary drive.

If this works we will then look at what is needed for the drive to be reintegrated to the system.

Edit 2; if under system power up, but not under reboot, the EC clears it most likely then is windows bios. Your system bios has the hardware set at power up, when windows initializes it can move hardware assignments, like the secondary drive number or even primary. this then could clear EC but on a reboot it does not have to reassign hardware as it is booted up.

Be sure the boot drive is in the first physical location (they are labeled) and in bios it is the primary choice for boot too.

 

I cant remove the hdd. Is there anything we can do it without removing it. I can format the second hdd to gpt if you want.

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Why can it not be removed? there is one screw on the bottom plate then two over the drive cover itself. Also this will allow you to be sure the boot drive occupies the primary HDD location. My fear with just a reformat or partition etc. is it still will remain as drive 3.

What it sounds like is the system, for some reason, has the secondary drive as device 0, the iSSD as device 1 and the primary as device 2 on power up. The Windows BIOS then takes the secondary device and moves it from device 0 to the empty device 3 and then moves the primary from device 2 to device 0. Since our BIOS is UEFI compatible and not a true UEFI implementation the information is not stored permanently (the reason we were spared the UEFI-Linux bricks). The only way to do this without physical removal is UEFI command line. This then changes the system tables. This in the same manor that I have the extra 4 bins programed from the UEFI on my i7-3870. I would not even attempt to do this remotely, nor advice you on the commands etc., as it is too easy to make a brick.

I should note before it moves the drives most likely EC is started but since it caches device 0 it initially sees the second drive and flushes as it does not match.

Edit; I can't state 100% this is the issue but the most likely suspect. You apparently have a very unique situation and without the system in hand it is a tough nut too crack! Also TBH with UEFI command line, even system in hand, I would not attempt drive reassignments as I am not proficient or confident enough to attempt them!

Edit 2; there is a third option. That is start from scratch. Format all drives and reinstall Windows 8 on then system drive 0 from a cold boot. You have to be sure the install is from a power up, not after having repartioned and formatted the drives as window bios may have reassigned them. You may think a prior reinstall was proper when actually it was only repeating your problems. Even an old repair disk, even install disk, on a warm startup could have your disks reassigned along with the f4 and repair options.

If you do this DO NOT DUEL BOOT windows or Linux, just a straight Windows 8 install. I have to repeat this as it must be done from the windows 8 install disk with all drives 100% clean and with no partitions and from a COLD BOOT or you will be back right where you are. Even then there is a slight chance of an issue somewhere s using just one drive in the first bay is the best option but we are back to removing a drive.

 

I am too scared to do it. I can do everything software-wise but hardware no no.

I upgraded from W7 to W8 and ordered the disk as well. So all i have to do is make a new fresh install?

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no, not just as fresh install. you most likely have to first bring all drives to a fresh start. Remove even all partitioning from all drives. so the system is 100% bare. Once this is done power down completely. Then do a cold boot from power on with the Windows 8 DVD and install fresh from there on drive 0. It is still preferable to remove the secondary HDD.

So you know, then HDD's are meant to be removable and interchangeable, by even a casual user. For both drives it is a total of 5 screws. I've hosted this file for you to look at.

http://www.pcambrosia.com/Files/Disassembly_ServiceManual.pdf

 

I would do it if the laptop was truly mine but right now i cant risk it.

I cant even do that cold boot. Sorry

 

ignore the full disassembly it shows you how easy the drive removal is........

 

I am pretty sure it is but the person who truly owns it wouldnt let me do it.

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I am just so unlucky to have an issue like that..

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Ah, I thought this was yours. Then this is an issue the person needs to take the system in to a repair shop for a QUALIFIED technician. Since this is such an unusual issue do not expect the shop to take undue time troubleshooting it without just replacing some if not all the hardware (a new system). Additionally this could get expensive.

I can see no other fix, without this being done first, also if it does not fix it the end result and behavior during the fix could lead to other thoughts of fixing the system issue. I am however 95% sure, at this point, somewhere windows bios is causing the issue. Good luck with the system and the friend who owns it.

 

Guys something weird happened. There are stripe like things at the top of my screen.

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If they don't change with a reboot then I would suspect the display cable or connector.

Sometimes closing / opening the display will temporarily reset a cable problem.

John