Samsung Series 7 Lovers - Here's The NP700Z5C Ivy Bridge!

Hello sevorg, welcome to NBR.

I can hear you've done your homework and are well prepared for this. That will help you!

So let me get right to it:

1) If you think you might ever want (or need) to re-install the factory Win8 installation on the new SSD, you could make a so-called Bootable Factory Image Backup on a 32GB USB stick using Recovery, as described in this post. But as long as you keep the original HDD safe (with Recovery on it) you can also swap that back if you want to revert the machine to factory state (say you want to sell it).

2) Use the advice in the Series 7 Disassembly Guide when you are ready swap in the SSD.

3) If you are looking to move the HDD to the optical bay (replacing the DVD drive) you will need a special caddy, as described in this thread.

4) Use the install guide in this post to convert the new SSD to MBR (if it isn't already), change your BIOS settings, installing Win7, drivers etc. It has everything you need. It looks long, but it's fairly easy.

On your model, it is far easier to install from a DVD, since it avoids a problem with Windows Setup getting confused by the ExpressCache drive. If you MUST install from a USB stick instead (because you're replacing the DVD with the HDD and you don't have an external DVD drive) you need to follow the workarounds in the first posts of that thread, either this or this to make sure the Windows boot files end up where they belong.

5) I don't think there are any benefits of using UEFI/GPT for you when installing on the new SSD. In fact, these early Win8 models (which were originally made for Win7) are known to be troublesome with Win7 in UEFI mode. We've even had some reports of bricking from it. The Win7 install guide I linked specifically has you switch to non-UEFI mode (so-called CSM or Legacy BIOS) and convert the disk to MBR (which your SSD may already be). This post has a little overview and some links to more reading about UEFI and GPT.

Again, I think you are well prepared. There is a little work ahead for you, but you'll have a great machine for another 1-2 years this way

 

Hi Dannemand,

Thank you for the welcome and the info, most useful and thorough, especially the linked tips to download the driver only for the Intel WiFi and a whole load of stuff I hadn't thought of!

Once I have a non-Sandisk USB drive next weekend I'm going for it!

Thanks again, I'll post how I get on in case it is of interest to any others contemplating taking the plunge to improve their machines.

 

Great. Please post your results -- or any further questions.

 

So my SW update is showing Easy Settings has been changed to version 1.1.4. I'm currently on 1.1 according to my programs in control panel. Does anyone have any experience with this one or know what updates they've made?

Also whats your guys' recommended sound driver for these things? I recently reinstalled Windows and have been having an awful time with the R271 drivers from Realtek's site, but I know that the .6669 drivers from SW update are equally bad. I have R273 downloaded but haven't tried it yet.

The issues basically cause my laptop to not have any sound unless I go into Device Manager and disable/re-enable the Realtek high Definition audio. I'm currently on .6662, and it happens randomly, usually after resuming from sleep. Chrome also doesn't recognize having sound unless it's been restarted after disabling sound in device manager.

 

Easy Settings is now on V2 using the same core as Settings and seems to be better coded with fewer latency issues..

Use SW Update's Find Model facility to look for a fairly early V2 Settings (the newest versions seem to lack support for older features such as ExpressCache and Battery Life Extender (I'm using 2.0.0.38) and you will find Easy Settings in a Win7 folder in the installation package).

John

 

The find model thing would still change for my Win7 model? I actually like those features although I don't use Expresscache, but I occasionally use the Battery life Extender. I suppose it would still be available in the BIOS.

I didn't think they'd update the Windows 7 Easy Settings to Windows 8's Settings app though.

 

Hi yjgfikl, good to hear from you again!

You are right, both ExpressCache and BLE still work (and BLE can be controlled from BIOS) even if you use a newer version of Settings that doesn't have the tabs to control these features. But that's only relevant in Win8. The latest version of Easy Settings I tried was 2.0.0.48, and it still has the full set of features. It can be found under model NP880Z5E-X03CA in SW Update, directly under Win7 drivers. Also described in the opening post of the [Easy] Settings thread linked below.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/sam...-settings-what-you-need-know.html#post9336654

I no longer have an active Win7 installation, but the last Audio driver I used there was Realtek 6.0.1.6428 from SW Update, which worked flawlessly. I have an older Sandy Bridge Series 7, though, not the same as yours. The latest Audio driver I could see in SW Update under NP700Z5C -S02UB was 6.0.1.6646.

If you installed Intel or Nvidia graphics drivers straight from their websites (as opposed to ones from Samsung) I wonder if the audio component of these drivers (used for HDMI) could somehow interfere. Just a thought.

 

Dannemand, enthusiastic and helpful as usual!

I've never used the Samsung drivers for the graphics and have always gone straight through geforce.com, so that is definitely a good point. I'll mess around with updating the new easy settings and sound drivers and report back sometime this weekend.

 

FYI,
I have been through two screens on my SO2UB. They keep getting spots where the screen is abnormally bright. They tend to grow over time as well.
Luckily I had the warranty via Best Buy and was able to get them both replaced. New one has been on a few days, but I'll keep an eye on it.

Props to Best Buy: I had my laptop back in my possession within 3 business days each time. That warranty was well worth it!

 

I have this exact same problem, with Easy Settings installer reporting 3.02.000 version already installed. When trying to locate/de-install the existing version, it is nowhere to be found.

Anyone know how to deal with this?

 

Quick question:

I just upgraded my laptop with an SSD (moving the original HDD to an optical drive caddy). I disabled ExpressCache, since the new SSD is faster and roomier. Is there any way to utilise the original 8GB cache for anything, like a cache for the data drive or for temporary files to reduce write cycles for the SSD?

(I think I read somewhere that it is possible to reformat the 8GB drive as an NTFS drive. If I did that, would it be impossible to restore it to the original function later?)

 

Hello eruditionfish, welcome to NBR.

Good thing you disabled ExpressCache, you don't want that after installing an SSD. I suggest you simply uninstall the ExpressCache software using the Windows Programs and Features control panel (and reboot). After that you can delete the partition on the iSSD, create a new NTFS partition on it, and use it for anything you like.

I don't recommend using the iSSD for anything that requires constant (or frequent) writing, since it wears too. And whereas you can simply replace an SSD drive, you cannot replace the iSSD if it wears to a point of failure, since it is soldered on the motherboard. In fact, if your iSSD should fail, you may experience severe boot delays -- even if you don't use the drive at all.

Use HWiNFO to monitor the health of your iSSD:

View attachment 112367

If you need to re-install ExpressCache some day (if you swap the HDD back in) just follow the steps in this post.

 

Cool, thanks a lot.

I already uninstalled the software when I disabled it. I'll just leave the drive blank until I can think of some use for it that doesn't require constant writing, then.

 

Got it. You're in good shape then.

I have an INSTALL folder on my main drive (still HDD) where I keep installation files, drivers etc -- going back several years. When the times comes to swap in an SSD and retire ExpressCache, I will move that INSTALL folder to the iSSD: It doesn't get written often (not much wear) and it makes installation files readily available during a clean install, even if the main drive is wiped.

 

Man it feels like I've abandoned this thread. My battery wear has apparently reached 29.9%. I don't believe there's anywhere cheap to buy a replacement is there? How are your guys' batteries doing?

 

Someone else had some high wear. Did you run the calibration?

The official part is BA43-00318A (also model ID AA-PBZN8NP) and the listing here (one of the Samsung UK authorised service centres) shows it is compatible with many Series 7.

A quick search reveals this "compatible" battery.

John

 

Yeah I ran it at 24.4% wear, and upon rebooting I jumped to 29.9%. Wonder if I can get Samsung to replace it out of warranty for free; didn't they guarantee something like 1600 charge cycles to reach 80% capacity? I've probably not even got 300 cycles to be honest.

 

Hi yjgfikl,

Did you keep Battery Life Extender enabled during this time? I don't know if there is any chance you can get Samsung to replace the battery out of warranty, but even if so, I'd think only if you have kept BLE enabled, since that's what that claim was about.

I think I even saved a web page with that claim for my model (NP700Z3A). I'll try tomorrow if I can find it.

 

That would be great for a backup argument just in case Dannemand, I'd appreciate it. I used BLE on and off but I feel like 30% wear is pretty severe for only 1.5 years of ownership isn't it? I don't leave the thing plugged in all the time and rarely ran it to below 20%.

Kind of strange for them to argue to use BLE that only allows you 80% charge, for it to just turn around and wear 20% anyway and limit your maximum usable life to 80% of its capacity. You'd never get to use its full potential.

 

This Amazon page has the original marketing claim about the battery longevity.

On that basis you could argue that your battery was inherently defective from the time of manufacture but it has taken time for the defect to become evident.

Some of Samsung's batteries seem to be OK. My NP900X4C's battery is still at 0% wear after 23 months but has spent most of its life plugged into the mains and with BLE enabled and should have been through less than 50 charge cycles. However, I got my NP900X3B's battery replaced under warranty just before its 1st birthday when it reached 30% wear - I had been watching out for problems because a few other people had reported abnormal battery wear on the NP900X3B.

If your battery is very sick then you will find that the wear will significantly increase with each calibration cycle.

John

 

Seems like that might be the case. I'll have to try contacting them and seeing what my options are. My issue now is finding the time to do it of course. Thanks for linking that page, I've saved it just in case. I still have yet to try the new Easy Settings too.

 

If it's any use, I have attached a PDF I saved from Samsung's website about their claims of battery longevity. I'll be interested to hear if Samsung helps you with that battery.

 

Also have high battery wear (27%) on my NP700Z5C-S01UK, just under 2 years of ownership.

Even with my decreased battery life, I feel as if the laptop loses battery exceptionally quick when not plugged in. Is there any way to reset Samsung's factory battery settings back to defaults (?) - I now use a Samsung SSD so I have re-installed Windows, losing what seemed to be very good battery optimisation settings which the laptop had initially (6-8 hours off battery, now it's 2-3 hours tops)

 

Samsung's Settings program loads Samsung's power plans.

Did you install SW Update after reinstalling Windows? SW Update should then offer you the Samsung software and drivers.

John

 

My Samsung is waking up slowly from sleep state. It would take a good 30 second sometime even a minute before it would wake up to a log in screen after I press enter or open the lid.

Any idea what causing something like this? Once my Samsung wakes up then it runs fast until it goes to sleep again.

Bill

 

Is the "sleep" the genuine sleep mode or is it hybrid sleep which changes to hibernation after a period of sleeping? Your wake-up time is more in line with resume from hibernation on an HDD.

Does hibernation work OK? Is the resume time the same as you see with sleep?

Does Event Viewer's System Log contain any errors or warnings at the times when the computer is going to sleep or waking up?

John

 

It goes to sleep I think not sure. When I open the lid the blue power LED is already lit but the display doesn't lit up yet for about 30 second or so. Sometime the display will lite up and show wallpaper but the login box doesn't come up right away yet.


Looking at event logs ... I see a bunch of log entries when it wakes up from a

System log

The system time has changed to ‎2014‎-‎07‎-‎07T14:15:24.500000000Z from ‎2014‎-‎07‎-‎07T05:48:50.447321300Z.

Intel(R) Management Engine Interface driver has started successfully.

The browser has forced an election on network \Device\NetBT_Tcpip_{F591B76F-D696-4473-949B-60D670B12FC3} because a master browser was stopped.

Firmware S3 times. ResumeCount: 30, FullResume: 0, AverageResume: 0

Windows cannot store Bluetooth authentication codes (link keys) on the local adapter. Bluetooth keyboards might not work in the system BIOS during startup.

The system has returned from a low power state.

Sleep Time: ‎2014‎-‎07‎-‎07T05:48:38.267114100Z
Wake Time: ‎2014‎-‎07‎-‎07T14:15:25.649912200Z

Wake Source: Device -ACPI Power Button

And in the Security event .. There is a repeat of Audit Success of logon and logoff Is this normal? or it should be only done once each time I logon into Windows 8?

Bill

 

I've looked in the system log for my NP900X3B which is using Windows sleep. The very last entry before sleeping is Kernel Power - The system is entering sleep. Do you have that entry?

On wake-up I have the messages about the Browser, the system time changing and the Bluetooth (and various others) plus a message about the system returning from sleep. However, I've just done a test hibernation and that also has a message about returning from sleep.

There might be a clue in the times of your various events. Are they spread over about a minute?

Alternatively, we have to start doing some further checks: What is the wake-up time if you only wait a minute after putting the computer to sleep? Is there any difference if you reboot the computer before putting it to sleep (so there are fewer programs running when it goes to sleep). It may also be worthwhile checking the SMART data for the storage devices. A dying HDD or iSSD (ExpressCache, if you have it) could have unexpected side-effects.

John

 

Hi everybody,

i have an np700z5c-s03 for two years and i love it, but i have three serious problems with it:

First issue: when i put the laptop in sleeping mode OR in hibernate mode, when i try to wake him up, lights turn on and immediatly shuts down...i have to start up manually and don't show any messages, just boots like nothing happened. It happens every single time. So i have to shut down the laptop all the time, that is annoying.

Second issue: i can't update the bios. I tried update via swupdate and via downloading the bios directly from samsung website, either way, it asks to restart the laptop to flash the bios and update, he restarts and immediatly shuts down (like the First issue) but this time it wakes up by himself but just boots to windows normally, again with no error messages. just says "bios failed to update".

Third issue: i didn't use the laptop for 4 months, when i used it again wear level of the battery is: 37%...used to last 5 hours, now 2 hours max...

is there anything that can do to fix this problems?

 

1. Use Event Viewer to look in the system log to see what happened at when you put the computer to sleep or hibernation. There might be some clues about what is messing up the process.

2. I wonder if something is blocking this. Do you either have an over-agressive anti virus software or have caught some malware (run Malwarebytes to scan the computer)?

3. There is a battery calibration option in the BIOS. First fully charge the battery, then run the calibration, then fully charge the battery again and check the wear.

I would suggest you consider backing up all your files then reinstalling Windows. You should be able to reload the factory image by tapping the F4 key at few times immediately after starting the computer (unless you have changed the partitioning - the Samsug Recovery System is vulnerable to failure if the recovery partition got moved).

John

 

First of all, thank you for your help.

1. I put the computer in sleep mode and i went to event viewer to see system log, it says:

"The system has rebooted without first being shut down properly. This error may have occurred because the system stopped responding, has crashed or lost power unexpectedly.

- System

- Provider

[ Name] Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power
[ Guid] {331C3B3A-2005-44C2-AC5E-77220C37D6B4}

EventID 41

Version 3

Level 1

Task 63

Opcode 0

Keywords 0x8000000000000002

- TimeCreated

[ SystemTime] 2014-10-26T14:45:06.971006800Z

EventRecordID 16510

Correlation

- Execution

[ ProcessID] 4
[ ThreadID] 8

Channel System

Computer Ruca

- Security

[ UserID] S-1-5-18


- EventData

BugcheckCode 0
BugcheckParameter1 0x0
BugcheckParameter2 0x0
BugcheckParameter3 0x0
BugcheckParameter4 0x0
SleepInProgress 4
PowerButtonTimestamp 0
BootAppStatus 0
"
2. I just use Windows Defender...

3. I already did that when I started to use the computer again, that's why I think is strange have already 37% of the battery wear level

Other thoughts: I suspect that sleep/hibernate and bios update issues have something to do with hardware problems and not software. I already reinstall windows more than one time, used different OS's, and used recovery factory image several times, and every time this issue happened. They seem not going away when installing windows again, or different versions (installed already: factory image, win8, win8.1 and win10 preview) and the issues are the same in all of them.

 

Hello guys,

I have owned the NP700Z5C-S2UB for 2 years now. I was really happy with my purchased until now, my CPU is a little bit bug and it is kinda annoying whenever I gaming.

Here is the problem, it was appear a couple of weeks ago when I was using Windows 8. My CPU just never go above 40% even when it shows that it processing at 3.15Ghz. I have try to re-install windows many times included Windows 8.1 Pro with Update 3 (Feb, 2015), Windows 8 Pro, Windows 7 Ultimate and it doesnt seem to help at all. I have even format every drive in this laptop, still give me the same result.

Here is the screenshot that I just took (I just reinstalled Windows 8 Pro and installed all the driver and update from SW Update):

Is there anyway to fix this CPU problem?

Thank you very much!

 

I'm not sure what the problem is, you mean it never goes above 40% usage? That simply means you aren't doing anything intensive enough to warrant maximum CPU usage.

 

Run wPrime and compare the time for your CPU with the results for your CPU listed at notebookcheck.

John

 

I have a NP700Z5C-S01UB that just got bricked last night from trying to dual boot Yosemite and Windows 10 preview. It bricked while re-starting from an upgrade of the windows 10 preview build 10061. It powers on but never goes into bios, no matter what you press F2, F4 or F10. Keeps re-booting forever. Only way to stop it from boot looping is to use a sharp tool to press into the little hole on the battery. Any suggestions besides a new motherboard???

 

Sorry to hear that

Check this thread and particularly the threads linked in today's posts there. Depending on the type of bricking, there is a chance that your computer can be salvaged. But you have some serious study and work ahead of you.

If this appears to be an UEFI/NVRAM induced bricking, I would ask that you post further questions about it in @Fitztorious' thread (also linked in the Samsung forum sticky list) as we are trying to gather knowledge there. Currently these bricking questions are being posted in half a dozen different Samsung threads.

Edit: I notice you posted your question in two different threads, so-called cross posting. It happens all the time, but please don't do that as it violates forum rules -- because it wastes other member's time as they read and reply to questions already answered elsewhere.

 

Sorry to wake a old thread, i was wondering if anyone could help i have 700z5cpl-a04uk, i have upgraded to windows 8.1 and now only 2 of my backlit keys work, volume on mute and the wifi on.

I have tried using sw update but not having much luck

Thanks

 

I been having this same issue for over a year now until I finally managed to get rid of this issue.

What I did was switch from Windows cloud account to local account. Now it wake up quick and allow me to use my laptop without having to wait for laptop to finish whatever it doing in the background.

That took me a year to figure it out, I keep thinking there was anti-virus or some kind of scanner running in background every time I wake up my laptop but it was Windows Cloud all along ..... geeesh but now my laptop run fast and snappy.

Bill

 

I have an new issue with this laptop.

Sometime when I start a video in Facebook then click on full screen. The video would just disappear but the message box showing that the YouTube is in full screen now. It doesn't always happen but been happening quite often lately.

I checked the samsung update and no new update for either video cards. I tried updating HD4000 manually with the driver from intel site but the software said it was not compatible with my laptop.

Do I need to remove Samsung version of HD400o driver first before installing the intel HD4000 generic driver?

Bill

 

One last question,

The characters on my keyboard are wearing and fading away and there is a bunch of white lit dots all over my keyboard where the characters used to be at.

I plan to replace the keyboard myself and looking around online / Ebay etc, there several places I can get a replacement keyboard but I wondered if they still going to have the same wearing and fading out issue as my current keyboard or did they make it to withstand the use better now?

Bill

 

Nobody able to answer my last few posts?? Need help on those

I also upgraded to Windows 10 none of the Samsung hotkey are working and they all act as a function keys now. How do I fix this?

Thank you
Bill

 

1. You need to install Samsung's Settings program to get the hot keys to work. Use the Samsung Update program (formerly SW Update) to find and download this.

2. The official keyboard replacement is a keyboard /palmrest unit which isn't cheap. If it is only the key caps that are wearing then you could get one of the replacement keyboards from China and just swap the key caps. Someone recently described doing this. Practice the removal / replacement on an unimportant key on the replacement keyboard so you can see how the mechanism clips together.

3. Samsung's version of the Intel graphics driver includes a patch to work with the notebook's brightness control.

 

I did install the setting after the Windows 10 upgrade the last time and it worked fine until the second major upgrade which automatically started on it own last night that what killed my settings. I reinstalled the Samsung setting and it still broken. The Setting I installed is version 2.0.0.30 I wondered if the Windows 10 upgrade last night also replaced my intel graphic driver as well too.

It more than just the cap key, I am a coder so I am banging on my keyboard all day long, I never in my life seen a keyboard wear out prematurely like on my Samsung keyboard. I wonder if I had a bad batch keyboard and Samsung fixed that flaw with later keyboard so I wanted to replace it with a later keyboard if it was better designed and not to wear out so easily. It just the paint on keys coming off. I uploaded a photo of my keyboard

Bill


View attachment 129580

 

I reinstall the Settings and the second key function is working again. Look like the second major Windows 10 update wiped it out again.

I checked on E-Bay for keyboard and it seem all that offered is a keyboard without back light.

Do anyone know if it a direct replacement to swap out a back light keyboard to one that does not have back light?

I don't care if it doesn't have backlight as long the key doesn't wear down so easy like the one in the photo in my previous post.

Bill

 

Also I forgot to mention that I been getting a warning on from the smart drive detection that the onboard 8Gig SSD drive is failing so I disable the drive and uninstall the cache. I am using the laptop without the SSD drive for the moment.

Is the SSD drive repairable or replaceable?

Thank you

Bill

 

1. Is the keyboard you found the complete keyboard / palmrest unit (the official Samsung part) or just the basic keyboard. If the latter, you will have to improvise to do the swap in which case how about just replacing the key caps?

2. The iSSD is a chip on the mainboard and replacement involves a mainboard swap, which explains why Samsung didn't carry the iSSD through to later generations of notebook - they had to replace quite a few under warranty.

John

 

1. It just the keyboard itself, it not just the cap key that worn. I attached a photo in the previous post of my keyboard and there are over 10 different keys that it paint had worn through. It got to be one of the worst keyboard I ever owned

The keyboard is part of Palm rest? I have replaced laptop keyboards in the past on other brands and I never had to replace the palm rest along with the keyboard.

If so then I will just swap all the keys from new keyboard to the old instead and cheaper this way too because a compete new keyboard cost 20 dollar while each key will cost 5 dollars each

2. It what I was afraid of that the ssd is not replaceable. Is the CPU removable from the motherboard or soldered on? If removable then motherboard should be cheap enough for !r to replace.

Bill

 

The official keyboard part is called the top housing and looks like this. The keyboard unit is bonded (not screwed) into the housing. However, I am sure that it is possible to separate the parts with some suitable tools and then glue in a new keyboard but don't recall anyone doing this. Changing this part is also a lot of work because this unit, placed upside down, is effectively the base onto which the rest of the notebook is built. I think my "key cap" is the same as your "key". ie the bit of plastic that you press with your fingers.

I believe that the CPU is soldered. It's normal practice for thinner notebooks because a socket adds substantially to the thickness.

John

 

You might be right about the CPU to keep it thin

This is the keyboard I ordered from China - http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/7139367870.html?orderId=71337955352841

I know it not "official" Samsung keyboard but the photo look exactly the same as my keyboard even all the extra function key are the same. Only different is that my keys are black with white lettering and this is silver with black lettering.

If I can't replace the keyboard directly then I will test and see if I can pop all the keys off the new keyboard and swap it with the keys on the old keyboard directly. It was only 20 dollars and still much cheaper than 5 dollar per key if I was to purchase keys and swap it out.. I have about 11 keys that need to be replaced so that would cost me 55 dollar plus shipping


If I swap my harddrive with a SSD drive then I don't really need the onboard SSD right? Is there a way to disable it completely like in BIOS so Windows does not detect the drive and give me the error message every time it restart?

BIll

 

Please keep us updated on the keyboard. The one you have ordered looks to be the version shipped on the silver coloured notebooks (NP670Z5E NP680Z5E).

You are correct that a modern SSD is faster than the iSSD. Unfortunately, Samsung didn't think to provide a switch for the iSSD in the BIOS. You will have to maximise the use of sleep / hibernation.

John