I am on the road again and have problems using the HDMI as a dual display with my room LCD. Seems I remember this problem before but not the solution! ARGH!
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Also Samsung was no help this morning!
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Here's a shot in the dark - most hotel TVs are hooked to a "control box" via an RJ-45 or DB-9 or other serial style cable. Disconnect same and turn TV off and back on and see whether it now allows you to select the HDMI input. If that's not the "problem" you're having, maybe try giving us some specifics.... -
what sorta got things going was to download the last/latest graphics display driver from Intel.. I think the date was may 2012.
Unpack those but don't try to install using the intel program.
unzip/unpack to the folder it defaults and check to see its all there
UNinstall the device from the windows control panel. the display adapter. probably called "intel hd". uninstall it and reboot. it SHOULD come up and install the generic vga driver via windows. Then go select it in device manager again, choose Update driver, and point it to the folder where the drivers are. it will then install the latest driver and require a reboot.
after this, you should plug in the external LCD and toggle the display menu to "projector only" because that is the most persistent one and you need a fairly long wait interval. once the onboard display goes dark, if the image does not appear immediately on the external, power off the external lcd, then back on again. it should then sync up. after that you can toggle any mode you like. -
HopelesslyFaithful Notebook Virtuoso
got a question on SB cpus. if the CPU uses max utilization it hammers gpu freqs, which is detrimental to gaming. Is there a way to force CPU and GPU at max speed? or to force GPU at max over cpu?
Trying to play DC universe or DS3 with lowest graphics and res and i get 15-20FPS which blows and that is because gpu is jumping all around in freqs -
I might be wrong here but from what i am aware the CPU has an integrated GPU and they both run on the same Core... i may be COMPLETELY wrong here but that is my understanding of how it works... Though having said that i have not had access to my np300u1A for a while
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HopelesslyFaithful Notebook Virtuoso
the cou has a "set TDP limit" and when it is reached thigns downclock so if the TDP is 17w and cpu at max requires 15ws GPU only gets 2w so that is why i am curious on if there is a way to get around this because it blows to have both games at bare min res and settings and getting 15-20FSP :/ i would have thought i could have gotten 30 :/
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there's an E-350/450 with your name on it somewhere out there
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HopelesslyFaithful Notebook Virtuoso
huh?
10 char -
for the record. I installed a 128 OCZ vertex 3 9mm and it fit just fine just a slight buldge. I haven't found a definitive answer if the cpu is upgradable. yes/no? I don't feel like opening the laptop again.
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John Ratsey Moderately inquisitive Super Moderator
John -
HopelesslyFaithful Notebook Virtuoso
it says 988B rPGA it is the i3 model (this si from CPU-Z) Also does that mean i can put in a better CPU? Also what can i do with pins?
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these are the specs Intel® Core
it says BGA1023, so I assume it's soldered. I would still like to open the laptop and see but I am afraid john is right.
Although I see that the 1023 socket applies to other cpu's as well. -
John Ratsey Moderately inquisitive Super Moderator
John -
So, I'm thinking of selling mine. I had one of these 11.6" Samsung Princetons, and a 13.3" Dell Vostro V131. I already sold off the Dell, but in many ways I liked it better. For one, the performance was just SO much better on the Dell, with the Core i5-2430M or something like that, and with 8GB dual channel DDR3. I was even running a much slower SSD (old Indilinx SATA II drive). The other thing of course was that battery life was much, much better. The drawback was that yes it was bigger and heavier.
One other complaint with the Samsung is that the WiFi isn't as good. Where the Dell would get pretty much a full signal, the Samsung would be half. Where the Dell got a weak but useful signal, the Samsung got nothing.
So, once I sell off the Samsung and a few other notebooks I have, I might look into an Ivy Bridge Ultrabook like one of those Asus units with the IPS screen.
AFAIK all Intel ULV CPUs are soldered in. -
HopelesslyFaithful Notebook Virtuoso
btw my problem before of not being able to play netflix HD was because i was on battery. HD works on AC but no battery....even though there is plenty of CPU and GPU utilization open...it wont use it for some reason. Also that is the same with a lot o games i have noticed. only uses 80% gpu....odd
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you have to set in the advanced power option the minimum and maximum CPU state. By default the min is set to 5% and the max is never 100%. Check that and you might be able to play HD on battery.
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Another question, isn't there a miniPCI slot? Does that mean you could possibly install an mSata SSD? Maybe I am completely wrong...
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HopelesslyFaithful Notebook Virtuoso
Btw that didn't help still no HD on batt
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John Ratsey Moderately inquisitive Super Moderator
John -
HopelesslyFaithful Notebook Virtuoso
ok i'll check that out later but dont get how this would mattery when GPU is not even touched. I'll post shots later tomorrow after i try again
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I did not see anyone mention this but the lower/back edge of my Samsung NP300U1A LCD cover is all scuffed up. I'll try to explain this better. Close the laptop. Now look at the edge of the LCD cover nearest the battery. See the scratches. They are happening as you open and close the laptop cover. The rubber feet on the bottom of the laptop do not elevate the laptop enough. There is not enough clearance to open and close the cover without rubbing on the table/desk surface. I added a couple of thicker rubber feet to the corners of the battery and that should avoid additional scratches.
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HopelesslyFaithful Notebook Virtuoso
mine has a little but i dont open it on tablets either lap/bed plus the thing is too light to open one handed so i always pick it up to open it...easier that way. BTW I haven't taken a screen shot yet of HD. Wifi/netflix is being difficult the last few times for HD due to signal and semi slow internet so HD hasn't been on consistently. Also is anyone else annoyed by the lack of a hibernate setting in windows....why is there no hibernate? I hate when i close it and it goes to "sleep mode" but still turns on and off sometimes when in/on backpack/desk so it looses power while closed.
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Just installed a 330 SSD from Intel and it was a bear. First you should use a 7mm on this laptop. Second remove the rubber cover if you don't. The new 330 has no way to shrink the size. It is what it is. 9.5 MM with no spacers or rubber pads!
Third there are 8 screws and not 6 like another blog in another forum stated. Take the rubber pads off before you do anything. Also not all the scews are the same size/ARGH. Some of the ports/jacks hang on the cover/argh!The Acronis software did not work as it said I had no Intel products installed. What a croc. So I used the Apricorn software that came with the transfer cable. I tried to do a windows image on another laptop with a different SSD and that did not work either.
It works so far. Does anyone know if any management software needs to be installed for intel SSDs?
So I will have 3 different brand SSDs installed by this time next week. Hope that Plexor is as good as everyone says. -
HopelesslyFaithful Notebook Virtuoso
thats why you get samsung SSD
it is 7mm
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John Ratsey Moderately inquisitive Super Moderator
John -
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Got a NP300U1A locally, a used one and the Windows 7 home premium was installed but without Samsung software, may I know where I can order or buy recovery / restore DVD for my Series 3 11.6" with i3 - np300u1a (US Model) ?
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HopelesslyFaithful Notebook Virtuoso
U don't want Samsung software
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John Ratsey Moderately inquisitive Super Moderator
John -
Just dropped an OCZ Vertex II 60GB in my NP300U1A. Installation was easy, just undo the screws (including two under the larger rubber feet), carefully pry the bottom shell off, and the hard drive is easily accessible. The Vertex is a 9mm SSD and so it has the bulge which isn't a huge deal. With this particular SSD, the bulge is really not too bad, I barely notice it.
Prior to this I had the stock HDD partitioned half Win 7 half Fedora 15. Upgrading to Fedora 17 broke all function buttons which was a huge pain in the . When I did the SSD swaperoo, I switched over to Ubuntu with Gnome 3 which restored function buttons but broke wireless. I'm currently working on fixing wireless.
Edit: So this notebook comes with the Intel Centrino Wireless-N130, which is currently unsupported in Ubuntu 12.04. There is some discussion about Intel wireless which ultimately lead me to this page:
https://backports.wiki.kernel.org/index.php/Releases
This is a project called "compat-drivers" that supposedly gets Intel wireless working, but the only thing it succeeded at was breaking wireless alltogether as well as bluetooth. So I had to make uninstall. Unsure if there are other solutions, but this appears to be a dead end. -
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Bump, was able to regress the bios to 05PY, but the micon is still 07PY. No luck. Thinking I should contact samsung. -
HopelesslyFaithful Notebook Virtuoso
i would.....i don't know anything about this sorry
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Finally sent an email to samsung tech support. We'll see.
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Here was their response.......
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John Ratsey Moderately inquisitive Super Moderator
John -
Hey R&R - i am having the exact same problem as you with a new Samsung 840 250Gb SSD on 07PY - i had a hell of a time (took about 2 hours) installing windows with AHCI and SATA 3 enabled and even then the system was acting screwy untill i set it to SATA 2 - Only then will the SSD actually perform better than the original drive! I had a really frustrating time installing this SSD at all!
Anywho let me know if you have any joy sorting it out - You are not alone!
All the best,
Demon -
HopelesslyFaithful Notebook Virtuoso
it is probably not this but could those be chips from the bad intel batch when SB was released? i remember it had some issue with SATA dieing. Again probably not but who knows
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I hope not but who knows... on the plus side i just ordered an 8GB sodimm for this little beast... not sure if it will make any difference at all but it was cheap enough :O
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HopelesslyFaithful Notebook Virtuoso
only way it makes a difference if your liek me and opera where you got 40-80 tabs open at once in 3-5 windows but yea for the price might as well. SSD is the best upgrade though
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My daughter has had one of these since we picked it up on sale for $350 from Staples a couple of years ago. It has been flawless. I want to upgrade it before college in the fall. What is the best battery source for these? I'd like to get a spare (#?). 8 GB RAM. GSkill is usually my preference. Any issues? Are there still issues with the Sammy 830 SSD (128GB)? Any other drives in the same price range that fit without a bump (7mm)? Finally, anybody swap out the wireless card?
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HopelesslyFaithful Notebook Virtuoso
i use 8GB gskill no issue finding a good spare power cord or battery is really hard
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John Ratsey Moderately inquisitive Super Moderator
There a quite a few other SSDs that come in 7mm thickness. Check the Crucial M4 / M500 as one source.
If this is one of the models with the WiFi antennae in the chassis then changing the card won't help. I've got one of these external adapters for the occasions (actually quite few) when the internal WiFi of my NP900X4C can connect. That particular product has a cradle with extension lead so that the adapter can be moved to where the signal is a bit better (I also use it for my 3G dongle).
John -
I installed a new hard drive and reinstalled windows 7 from a disk I already had. I have now lost all the Samsung software. I am sure of it was bloatware but regret no longer having a recovery partition. Has anyone by any chance burned CD or imaged the hard drive in some format where they could get me a copy? Or would Samsung send me one? I am concerned they might not because I swapped out the hard drive.
slamtry -
Hi Slamtry,
You want to use Samsung's SW Update utility to download and install the necessary drivers and Easy Settings -- but not all the other bloat.
Use the steps in this Win7 install guide. Some of the steps don't apply because you already got Win7 running, but I believe the rest should be the same. Otherwise please let us know and we'll try to help the best we can. -
Thanks all for the info.
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okies terramir here,
two questions in here I can answer
#1 yes it is SATAIII 6Gbps as per chipset, etc.
#2 as for the original battery after a while on the 80% charge it's kinda like 20Wh full cap is 25Wh and designed cap is 29.6Wh is it is kinda wearing down
if you get 45 Wh here's the math
7.4 nominal voltage let's say the full capacity which is 29600mWh/7.4V= 4000mAh
my battery at 79% is 20461mWh/7.4V= 2765mAh on full charge if I switch it it's
25900mWh /7.4V= 3500mWh which means since this thing was turned on 10/14/2011 is has lost about 12.5% of it's capacity, since at times I didn't use it for months and well I mostly charge to 80% unless I plan ahead on taking it somewhere that 80% thing is actually working.
one person posted a capacity of 45510mWh/7.4V this actually is a capacity 6150mAh and not the 5570 that hw info reported the capacity it should have based on the advertised 7800mAh should be 57720mWh,
But reality I this unless there real Panasonic or samsung cells it's unlikely to hit 7800mAh because at 7.4V nominal (that is about 8.2V fully charged) and a 6 cell battery 7800mAh /3(3 pairs to get 7.4V)= 2600mAh cells cost for 2 cells about 16 dollars on deal extreme and were talking real mAh
(unless it's Samsung sanyo or Panasonic) there usually highly overrated.
And for a 6 cell battery it would take 3 pairs, now that would be$40 to $66 without assembly and electronics.
The 4000mAh of the original battery = 2000mAh cells those are far cheaper than ones in the 2400mAh plus range so it's to be expected that this is far over rated.
I just bought a genuine used 4 cell battery, Ill check the capacity once I get it from the eBay seller. hope it still has some life left, but in a few months one of these (my battery or the used one I just purchased will go on the chopping block and I'll refurnish it with either the 3400 supermax cells (that would be an increase of like 70% with a 4 cell battery) or maybe 3100 or 2900 cells depends on how much I'm willing to spend at the time. even real 2600 cells would be an improvement.
thing is real Panasonic and Samsung and sanyo cells currently sell for this much a pair:
Panasonic 3400 NCR18650B @ 22.20
Panasonic 3100 NCR18650 @ 18.70
Panasonic 2900 @ 15.70
Samsung 2800 @ 12.60
so I could still get a 40% capacity boost for only 25.20 a 45% boost for 31.40 a 55% boost in a 4 cell for 37.40 and a 70% boost for $44.40 mind you these cells are high quality and will probably last quite some time.
A shame most batteries that come with these cheaper laptops are of the 2000mAh variety, 2600 to 2800, is not that much more money. Considering the amount of money we shell out on these machines.
My $.02
terramir
PS: I got lucky the used one I got was on sale for 16 bucks plus shipping so even if it only lasts a few more months I will have a cheap battery to crack open and refurnish -
HopelesslyFaithful Notebook Virtuoso
the panasonic 3400 at 10-12 bucks eadch so you would need four for a total of 40-50 bucks
from my experience the best DX cells are the trust fire protected but those range from 2000-2400 mah they are rated for 2400 though. or was it 2600? -
I am thinking of buying a 7800mah battery to hopefully significantly extend the runtime of this laptop from the two and half or so hours I get now. I realise that the larger battery will increase the weight but this doesn't bother me. However I do want to see how much bigger it will get. As far as I can see, since the battery does not run the entire width of the frame, the only possible way to increase the size of the battery is to extend it downwards. Is there anyone here who has bought a larger battery for this machine and can post a picture of the underside of the laptop to show how much the new larger battery sticks out from underneath? I would also be interested in hearing from anyone who upgraded to a larger battery, which model they bought and how much the battery life has increased.
Series 3 11.6" with i3 - np300u1a - anyone else have one?
Discussion in 'Samsung' started by 6eSamsung, Sep 12, 2011.