*OFFICIAL* Alienware Area-51M R1 Owner's Lounge

Get the Intel AX200. Supports wi-fi 6 and you'll be happy with the speeds if your router is wi-fi 6 enabled.

Can you snap a few pictures of the imperfection? I don't have that on my back panel. It's smooth all around and fits perfectly.

 

I have historically always had better driver support with Killer though and bad experiences with Intel wifi chips regarding dropped signals, BSOD's etc. Any reason the Intel chip would be better than the Killer one?

 

They're the same chip. So far I haven't got any dropped connections problem with any of mine. It's mostly a drivers problem or an unstable Pcie bus resulting from an overclock. I'm personally waiting for the CNVio interface supported AX201 (it isn't out yet ). Also have a 9560 lying around which is great too (CNVio interface so it'll be somewhat independent of the PCIe bus based direct communication).

 

fashion over function

 

I may get both and try tbh... thanks!

 

Are the SSD Heatsinks worth getting? I use samsung ssds which have heatsinks on them already...
Any links as to where I might be able to find the heatsinks? I know it was posted earlier in the forum, but I couldn't find it.

If I repaste, what is the best non-metal paste to use as this would be the first time I have done it. Any really good repaste guides, both specific to the 51m or just in general?

 

I also use Samsung SSDs that came with no heat sinks. You must have aftermarket ones on. They may or may not fit. The Dell heat sinks work very well. My load temps dropped from mid 70s all the way down to mid 40s after installing those.

 

I asked Frank a few questions regarding TOBII support for Windows Hello, gen1 rtx 2080s, screen swaps, etc. Frank did not say that the 51m doesn't work with Windows Hello, only that they are not planning on implementing it.
Would love to have more information regarding TOBII support for biometric login on the 51m. Maybe we can pressure Dell into adding support for it?




Also, Frank gave me the info on Dell Mobile Connect

not as easy to show with it all put together and I am not taking it apart right now . did snap some pics of the plastic around the palm rest though...
greater separation/gap on left side
Bumps
less separation on the right side from chassis.

Doesn't seem to wrap the chassis consistently either. with a decent gap between the plastic and the chassis...

Additionally, the plastic over the speakers is just so weak and flimsy. feels cheap and not protective at all...

 

Which Samsung SSD has a heat sink. Im not sure how it is now but I recall that the R4 heatsinks, when put on a Samsung EVO, actually was counter productive.

 

950/960/970 ssds (I know for sure the pro series) have labels on them that act as heatsinks...

 

That looks like a damaged chassis front grill to me. It shouldn't be this way. That gap is too much. See if you find any hints of breakage underneath the back panel towards the front side under the speaker and if you do, you should be able to get a new chassis.

I've not used those but I have used these all aluminum ones from Ali Express (and now Dell factory ones). Always reduced my load temps. The thermal pad also matters.

They're too thin although work good for heat transfer. Slapping an external heat sink on them with a thermal pad improves temps greatly. Tried and tested.

 

Its just a bit warped. No sign of damage.

 

If I were you I'd still ask for a new chassis. This imperfection is not a part of design and I have owned 2 chassis so far and I can tell for a fact that these have absolutely no imperfection when they are OK. This gap is either a result of damage or a plastic hook popped out while putting factory adhesive inside that connects the chassis body to the speaker grill. It should be perfect when coming straight from factory. Unless it was damaged by the reseller in the process of taking it apart (if any).

 

Here is a picture of mine, 0 gap as well and looks to be a very tight fit






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Did some more benching tonight with timespy, this is the max I could get. I was hitting some hard power limits with the 2080, clocks would drop to 1890 in some parts no matter how high I clocked it. Gaming clocks stay between 1960 and 2010.




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Many factors could affect Li batteries aging.
Before delivery, li batteries manufacturers will do the delta ocv test for them as products grading standard. Believe me, 3C products are always the lowest-class products which could even bring in 15% self discharge factors. Also, the research you are referring to just tell the story of some certain high-level LMO batteries aging mechanism. When it comes to NCM, NCA and LCO, the cycle life vs soc curve could also be different, don’t take it too seriously.BTW, anyone knows what’s the supplier of 51m’s pouch cell? CATL？And whats the cathode material?

 

Yeah I never take this as a life and death situation lol. However the IEEE paper that I've shared deals with all the different categories in general. Changing the other element besides Lithium will change the characteristics such as charge density and some other related factors like peak voltage and deltas to some extent but overall the characteristics of all lithium ion batteries remain similar (Lithium ion being the charge carrier) and so do the general properties. There is no huge difference in terms of how to charge each of them relative to each other (apart from what current and voltage do they like at constant current / constant voltage cycle) and what are the safe margins to get the most longevity out of your battery. Besides, they are cheap to replace so I wouldn't bother going crazy over it anyway. Just that it is a nice feature to have to control the charging and discharging percentage (although I have just realized that it is merely a gimmick and doesn't even work in this laptop. No matter what cut-off charging percentage I set, the laptop always charges the battery all the way to 100%. I'll give it a few more shots, may be it'll eventually work the way it should). So I'd just keep it to adaptive for now. I wish the custom worked, though.


Edit: After draining the battery past 65% mark and then replugging the chargers, it seems to be working as it should! I am going to leave it at that. Plugged in, 75% and not charging! It will only charge when it gradually drains out and touches 65% which will be a long time as I always use my computer with power cables plugged in.

 

Some interesting reading about how to extend your lithium-ion batteries health...
I Used an iPhone X for a Year and Had 99% Battery Health – Here’s How I Did it

Keep it above 60% mark.

 

So I've been trying to undervolt my cache and vcore using Throttlestop. I occasionally have been getting HYPERVISOR_ERROR BSOD's using the tool. I'm now at -143.6 vcore and -100.6 cache (adaptive voltage) with the: attached screenshot. Is there something I'm missing? It seems like there have been other CPUs that have been able to take more of an undervolt than mine.
Here is another picture of my throttlestop settings

 

That's the nature of mass silicon chip fabrication. Every CPU is different just like it's owner. They are not perfect, just good enough (or as Intel would say, within performance specs!) They have their own likings and dislikings about how much they like to undervolt. I usually keep both the CPU and Cache both at the same undervolt level and Intel XTU does this automatically. I prefer using XTU over throttle stop however, but that's just me.

 

Hey SK quick question. Did you remove the heat sink on the back side of the gpu to replace thermal pads that I am assuming is between the card and the heat sink.

 

Yes it is held together with 2 screws. Easy to deal with.

 

I would do these steps if I were you:

1. Uncheck BD PROCHOT, it throttles the CPU if the GPU gets too hot and vice versa (if I remember correctly)
2. Enable speed shift - epp and set the value to 0 (it let's the CPU use maximum power when needed and as efficiently as possible
3. Undervolt using the same values on both the cache and the core, -125 should be optimum for this chip provided you're not too aggressive with your over clock

Try these settings and please report back.

Good luck

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Alright so with the new base option of an i7 9700 non-k and the price of $1716, I am seriously consider buying this to replace my 17r4 with i7 7820hk
I think this new 9700 non-k maybe the sweet spot that fits my need, as its tdp is only 65w, much lower than 9700k’s 65w or the i9 one, so I think the temp will be better as well. It also feature an 8 cores like the i9, so it will good for games.
I know the clock will be slower but I think it still a big improvement over my old i7 7820hk, and I still have the upgradability later.
What do you think? Or should I wait for the new 17 r6 with the i9 9980hk?
I dont care about the discrete GPU since I have the external 2080ti in my AGA

 

9700? Is that a typo on their website? I think it's supposed to be 8700. I could be wrong, but I've never heard of an i7 9700 (non K) just K and KF.

Edit: Nvm, that's weird. Also an option for 9900 (non k.) In any case, it's a waste IMO. You can always downclock your CPU if needed, and it doesn't look like the price difference is very much. But the option to overclock, is worth it, to most..

 

Whats the best way to isolate the heat from the sound card from the palm rest? I am pretty sure it was talked about in here some where but cant find the page. Thanks

 

Add a mica sheet between it and the chassis. 0.5mm should be good.

 

Link? This is new to me.

 

On what BIOS you can do that?

Edit: I found it on 1.5!

Thanks for the tip! My battery sends it’s regards!


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Something like this and cut to size. https://www.amazon.com/Fashionclubs...s=mica+sheets&qid=1558256461&s=gateway&sr=8-5

 

9900/9900T etc are the R0 Intel refresh CPUs with some integrated security hardware changes...newer 9900K etc will also be R0.

 

Yup. Play around with the thickness though. I added 0.2mm sheet and it does a decent job. If you go too thick, say 1mm, then there might not be enough space under the audio board. Test it out to see if you need more. I found 0.5mm to be a snug fit but 0.2 turned out to be just enough. How much you need primarily depends upon the ambient temps and heat profile of the components.

 

Dell rep I chatted with said system comes with heat sinks on drives already. So isn’t it possible to just reuse?

 

Only if you buy it from Dell with SSD's on. If you buy the base model without the SSD's and then put drives later yourself then you'll have to buy separately.

 

The Dell ones are not that special. You can always find a aftermarket one.

 

Aftermarket ones will need certain "mods" to keep them from separating off as you put the laptop in the trunk of your car and hit a pot hole. The Dell ones have a groove that locks the heat sink into the rib cage above the drive so that it stays in place no matter how much the laptop jumps around. So just have to keep that in mind while buying aftermarket ones.

 

I’ve had this laptop for a little over a week and it’s been amazing. I undervolted my 9700k to 140.6 and overclocked it to 4.9 all cores and it has been stable in anything for hours of gameplay. I also have the gpu curve set at 937mv running at 1950 mhz (it only runs at 1937) but my system basically never gets hotter than 80C on both the graphics and processor gpu only runs 80 in anthem I believe. It was repasted using IC diamond from XOTIC PC. But damn if this isn’t quality I’m not sure what is. Minus the potential that it’ll catch on fire.... but hey I’m not even sure I won’t catch on fire on a daily basis

 

This might be the LGA MSI but expect some time for it to come out.

40C on load?? Sounds too good to be true. Maybe he can run those benchmarks for us.

Please let me know if you solve the Mobile Connect issue. I also have the same issue.

So basically we have non unlocked 9700/9900 now?

Should there be any performance difference between the older CPUs and the new R0 refresh CPUs?

 

Yeah, exactly. Hence I tagged you in Some variance between different ssd brands but not so much within the same brand.

 

That's true on some. I would not buy one like that lol. Some come with ways of fastening them, like with silicone bands.
I wrote the post because I remember when I used the Dell one on my PM961 and no matter what I did, it ran cooler with the Dell plate off.

 

Warranty starts on the day it gets delivered, at least in my case in the UK.

 

Word on the street has it:

P0 with disabled security patches > R0 > P0 with enabled security patches

 

Dell's warranties in all regions (including the UK) starts the date the system is invoiced. This is typically the date the system ships.

 

Beautiful screen but do you really game on your laptop panel or just when traveling? I wouldn't want to game on a small laptop screen myself unless I was on the go a lot.

 

Is .2in too thick? Isn't that like 5mm? .2in is the thinnest I found. @S.K where did you get .2mm? Thanks!

 

I think a lot of people use the screen of laptop. Kind of the point of this thing Gaming rig all in one. If you have the dedicated space for a desktop unless you have to travel like crazy then just get a desktop

 

I got mine from a local store in Singapore. They also have an international checkout site that you'll see when you initiate a checkout. Price is quite cheap.

I'm this case however I can verify that temps are significantly lower with the plate on. I'm using Samsung 970 pro and 960 pro with Samsung nvme drivers.

 

Yes .2in is 5.08mm. That is what I picked up. There is some thinner ones on amazon but there more expensive and smaller sheets. I am going to give my 5mm a shot first and go from there.

 

I got these from Amazon.

Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8 High Performance Thermal Pad - 30x30x2.0mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZJSRKTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WQH4CbMTSXZP0

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He's talking about mica sheet, not thermal pads.