*OFFICIAL* Alienware Area-51M R1 Owner's Lounge

While I don't think @Spartan can answer your questions regarding import duties into Europe, I do believe he has a valid opinion on shipping and warranty suggestions when ordering from HIDEvolution. ( Sorry I can't recall, but there may be an "ordering from outside the US" thread regarding HIDEvolution as well ).

 

@QUICKSORT Why not email [email protected] bro

 

This makes no sense.

Alas - mine DIDN'T 'work with the laptop correctly', hence the warning.

But funny how the one I ordered directly from Dell did just fine...

No discussion about 9900KS?

It is likely our last possible leap in CPU for the chassis... so who is going to be first to try?

As a frequent traveler I considered the 780W PSU, but no way I'm paying $300 for a breakout cable.

Still waiting for new GPUs...I guess we have Nvidia to thank for that?

 

Wow, so I just booted up my AW for the first time in a while, and Win10 want to install BIOS 1.7.3 even thou I have UEFI Firmware Capsule Updates disabled.

How do I block this crap???

 

Hey man, someone was posted this somewhere in the forum and I think it worked for me. You could try as well https://www.windowscentral.com/how-disable-automatic-driver-updates-windows-10

 

Best wishes on your deployment and stay in touch with us. May your new computer help brighten otherwise crappy days and be something to look forward to.

 

Credit to Vanya for this

 

Thanks, this - along with this: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-prevent-windows-driver-update seemed to do the trick.

This for some reason did not work for me. :-(

 

Everything is very well explained in HID’s website. Look on the bottom website. @Donald@HIDevolution

Use WUB and metered connection and close the door. Update Win patches via standalone updates.

Expect a coming firmware update that you can’t roll back from. Aka doomed with latest and greatest

 

Okay, so the other laptop I was looking to get instead (razer blade 15 oled) wasn't easily available with the qwerty layout, and since I got a reply from support.
Also a new nvidia driver released, and also my issue with the GPU has a solution now.

So I thought, I'm going to just chill for a moment. and redo everything. Did some updates. Reverted by undervolts, instead of undervolting the GPU, since it was tuned for the initial GPU firmware version, this time I instead overclocked the GPU without increasing the core voltage since it was already power throttling, so basically the power throttling in combination with the overclock on the core clock, is basically an undervolt of the GPU now. With that I got back my old performance.

And since my issue wasn't a hardware issue, I guess I'll rest my urge to change laptops for the moment. And thank you to everyone to help me further. I really appreciate this form a lot.

EDIT: Also a quick question how much of a memory clock frequency overclock would you guys recommend for a +100Mhz and a +150Mhz core frequency overclocks respectively?

 

Thank you I appreciate it. And I will. Gaming is still an escape from reality.

 

Thank you for your service!. Be safe

 

And who dont mind the sound comfort
And who dont mind the form factor
And who dont mind the temps
Who dont mind )

A-ha) Then I am Jesus

 

Does everyone's trackpad feel like there's a gap between the top layer and the layer beneath?
Mine when I touch it makes a kind of light tap sound as the 2 layers come together... feels kind of cheap vs the nice smooth glass surfaces I'm used to.

 

I think some of the earlier models had an issue with the bottom right corner of the trackpad, similar to what you are describing. I checked mine only the other night for this but mine feels fine. Do you have an early model (pre-June)?

 

Nope, got it at the begging of the month.
It's like there are 2 layer, but it cover 80% of the touchpad starting in the center

 

Its not just a protective covering like you get on the Tobi panel when brand new? Maybe it was left on at factory?

 

I have a huge question, if both power bricks are being used while laptop is on and one of the power adapters are unplugged and replugged in suddenly can it cause a short to the board?

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

 

Are they coming out with a 4K 120Hz display? If so, can we upgrade to it?

 

I doubt we'll see much if any upgrades for this iteration. If they continue with the A51m form factor I think the likes of 4K will be made available on revision 2.

Since Azor left Dell I haven't seen anything about the A51m from the likes of Umar or Ernie on Twitter or other channels.

EDIT: This is all my own opinion.

 

Does anyone have a calibration profile for the new Chi-Mei panels? Just been reminded of this since the LG panel calibration thread became active again?

I understand that a calibrated profile from someone else's machine doesn't guarantee perfection on mine but it would be good to apply and see.

 

Here you go.

 

You legend!! Thank you

 

Hoping you all can help me out. I'm looking at buying one of these, because there is a really good deal on in Canada right now (basically $1000 off plus an additional 10% for signing up my e-mail). I have a few questions about the configurations and this board seems like the best place to get educated on what I should be doing. I have some very basic knowledge but the people on here, based on my reading, have much, much more knowledge. Sorry if some of this has been covered ad nauseum - I did actually read through a bunch of this thread, but not all 1600+ pages. So, here are my questions.

1. My initial thought was that I should just get a base model - i7 9700k, RTX 2060, base storage, but with the highest upgrade panel (144hz + GSYNC) because that's the only component that can't be upgraded ever. However, research revealed that the other stuff will actually be harder to upgrade later, because the GPU is proprietary, the power supply included with the 2060 spec won't be sufficient to power an updated card, and there's some issue with the side venting on the 2060 models. So, the question is, is all of that true, and is the practical upshot that the lowest advisable spec to purchase is the 2070 model? In other words, would it be a really stupid idea to get a 2060 spec with the thought that I could spend money improving it gradually a year or two down the road? This is the big question, because upgrading the GPU at time of purchase seems ludicrously expensive (I can't afford $900CAD to jump up to a 2080, even $400 upcharge for the 2070 is a bit rough given the retail value of the cards).

2. On storage, I was just going to use the basic 128+1TB to start and eventually upgrade that stuff over time. However, it appears that the included 1TB SSHD is just... awful? Is that so, and would it be worth the $50 to just go with a 512 for the moment? If so, how big is the advantage involved in doing it as a RAID (256x256)? I ask because if I just get a 512 single channel from the factory, sticking another 512 (or 1TB) NVME in there seems like it'll be pretty easy to do on Black Friday, so that's where I was leaning). Any reason that that would be a bad idea?

3. Colour - I personally prefer the Lunar Light, but I gather there has been some issues with discoloration, getting grubby over time, etc... In terms of longevity, am I right that it makes more sense to go Dark Side of the Moon?

4. I don't think I've ever paid for an extended warranty service on any laptop. Anything about Dell's offerings that should make me think twice about this in this case?

5. Is there some reason I should just... not buy one of these at all? Has there been some significant issue I missed that might be a deal-breaker? I saw some talk about these things burning out, but not since many months ago and didn't seem to be a huge number of people.

Thanks a lot for any input you all can provide about any of the above. I really appreciate it.

 

Just a disclaimer, perhaps you already know, maybe others don't...
Each panel has its own characteristics. Their own peak brightness, their own color temp, etc
Think of it like processors each overclock differently. Because of this, a calibration profile will only be properly calibrated for the panel it was calibrated on.
While it might make your panel look better (or worse in some cases) it will more than likely be fully calibrated.
The only way is to calibrate the panel yourself. My buddy has a shop and we had about 12 17 R5's and at one point also had about 20+ PG279Q monitors and each one out of the box tested differently. Not a single one had the same readings as another.
Just saying.

 

1. G-Sync and Tobbii are nice things to have, but it will prevent you from using any BIOS you want. My opinion is that the regular 144Hz screen is just fine. If money is tight, I would personally would go with RTX 2070 and no G-Sync. Upgrade to an RTX 2080 (or even RTX 2080 Super) in the future.

2. Best is you to order the cheapest drive configuration and purchase the drives you want or have. RAID 0 on NVME is just stupid, if speed is your goal, get a Samsung 970 EVO and call it a day.

3. I have the Lunar light A51m... it's just beautiful. Just don't clean the laptop often, don't clean with chemical products and abrasive rags and you will be good.

4. Judging by other experiences, Dell warranty cover seems to be better than other companies. However, my opinion is that insurance might be a better option for once the year passes.

5. Most of the headaches come from RTX 2080 laptops. Just make sure the laptop is good once you receive it, and if not, talk to Dell about your issues, they will hook you up.

 

I just did this; my desk has just 1 x 180w psu, mybedroom has 1x180w + 240w... moved the a51m from desk to bedroom.

 

no dude; so ur saying
when u tap on ur track pad its solid like 1 piece and not like 2 peaces of hard plastic coming together?
The gap is probably < 0.3mm.

 

When I did it i was in the bios and unplugged the 180w and plugged it In again, like abit faster I was trying to untangle the adapters. Unplugged - 3 seconds and back in then dead...

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

 

This is what mine looks like right now - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/11UZ5D9YyS_zdJ73r-HzwJPEAF6ZJy-8V?usp=sharing

Can you share a picture of yours and it might help us help you?

 

Much appreciated - this puts my mind at ease somewhat. On the SSD front I'll probably do exactly what you suggested. On the panel side of things, the only options are 144HZ with Tobii and without GSYNC, or the same thing with GSYNC for an extra $50. Given what I've been reading / seeing on youtube, having GSYNC turned on seems to offer a bit of a framerate bump, such that it's $50 well spent - that was why I was inclined that way. I guess I didn't appreciate the BIOS issue - what would I potentially want to be doing there? I'm probably not sophisticated enough as a user of these things to really know what I'm doing messing around with BIOS.

I really don't care about Tobii eye tracking; it seems like a pretty meaningless gimmick so if I could save money I'd remove it, but it's included on both 144hz options, so.

 

The thing with G-Sync is that it requires a direct connection between the GPU and the monitor. Due to this G-Sync laptops have better performance because the display signal ins't routed through the Intel GPU. HOWEVER, the non G-Sync A51m has still a dedicated connection, and since there is no performance loss (you won't be able to run Optimus also).

The BIOS thing is for should you want to run a RTX 2080 in the future, you could install BIOS 1.5.0 and don't have a 79°C temperature cap on the GPU. However, there are ways around this.

One advantage of G-Sync is that, when you are about to sell the laptop, due to it having that option it will be an easier sell (or you will be able to sell it for more).

 

mmm, shouldn't be a problem tbh, usually I always forget to connect them or forget one of them (jumps that warning about using it with less power and such) and put them or move them and re-plug them together after setting them up correctly in my table and never happened what you describe, did you talk to dell? I mean your laptop is dead I guess they will just replace the problematic part. Does you get any feedback from the power button when turning it on? should give you a color code to make you understand what problem might be.

 

It dosent do a thing, apparently my board is shorted completely.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

 

This is my first time posting but I thought I should tell this so others may get some use of this. I made the mistake of updating my bios to 1.7.3 and I now have that dreaded 75 degree GPU throttling. I almost put a fist through the screen but I have figured out how to deal with this issue. GPU UNDERVOLTING! In MSI Afterburner (after you find a guide to unlock voltage control) you can lock the GPU to a set frequency and voltage. After setting my GPU to 1875 MHz at 875 mV, my temps have never gone above 67 degrees in any game I've tried. I really recommend that you give this a shot before you break your computer in frustration.

 

I went down the same analysis tree when I purchased mine. And ultimately ennded up adding things that would be difficult or impossible to upgrade later.

For example, I was told on this forum that the 2060 variant has less cooling, while to 2070 and 2080 have a cooling upgrade. So i did the 2070.

I went dark. Too many complaints about the light version.

I did the gsync monitor. I saw another post where the advantages were succinctly laid out And it is a difficult upgrade later.

Now for storage, I went with the base drive and added my own. (Samsung)
Getting it to work was a nightmare, BUT I had great help on this forum, and we got it sorted. It is easy to add drive and I think you will easily find good deals on BF.

As to warranty...... I have read every post on this thread. I decided a warranty was a good investment (first time I have ever purchased a PC warrenty). 2 years is affordable....
And I did have an issue with my sound card that was replaced already.

Good luck with your purchase!

 

You can't see any difference in a photo or even in person, it's a tactile thing... I usually tap to click, and the tapping feels like there's a small gap.

 

Makes perfect sense now, no mine doesn't click at all, it seems solid? I'd definitely contact Dell if its bothering you. Unless mines is broken and yours is how its supposed to be....

 

Mines the defective one, but I'm not sure my OCD will tolerate having a tech come out and put their paws over my beastbook, I was just hoping everyone else had the same tactile experience.

 

Why not use a proper undervolt? I set 1905Mhz (my full boost clock) at 0.950v in MSi Afterburner and it runs well.

Memory overclock of +200Mhz should be enough for any FPS boost in game you may want although very little. I normally run stock for gaming unless I have old hardware and really need the extra FPS.

 

A couple reasons.

I normally had a proper undervolt. Problem is NVidia Boost. Depending on the temperature of your GPU, your whole graph shifts. So you cannot have a perfect max Frequency cap. And it tends to happen that the flat line on the curve doesn't remain flat depending on the temerature once again, making the undervolt basically obsolete, because of a small increase in the mhz on the flat line on e.g. 1000mv, while I did cap it at e.g. 850mv.

But 74 degrees (which is the thermal throttle cap). Is actually a temperature I'm comfortable with. Because I was undervolting for better temps of course. So now instead I increase the frequency as much as possible know it will cap at 74 degrees, without changing the voltages.
Makes it simpler and easier. And it allows me to use different tools apart from MSI afterburner.

Because afterburner does prevent my laptop from sleeping from time to time also.

 

They can be quite heavy-handed, I cringed a few times when my screen was being replaced. You could maybe ask the tech to leave the part with you and you can replace it yourself if you're confident enough.

 

You can either go this route or this route

 

@raybies someone with potentially the same issue as you - http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/alienware-m17-r2-loose-trackpad.830894/

 

Just realized that my main game utilizes big benefits from 2666mhz vs 2400mhz. Hope there will be update for this >> PUBG

 

Time will tell, but I wouldn't hold your breath on it. People have been waiting for 2666MHz memory support for a LOOOOONNNNNNGGGGGGG time.

 

Another question, after I reinstalled Windows I cant choose high performance from AWCCs power options? Is that a problem? Just showing balanced now? a

 

There are only minimal gains to be had IRL going from 2400Mhz to 2666Mhz in basically any given scenario. Going for 2x16gb 2400Mhz would probably net you more raw power.

 

If you click the battery icon it should have a slider, middle for balanced and all the way to the right for High Performance. Sorry if thats extremely obvious and has been checked.

 

Finaly get my unit
Seems lika fans speeds up too slowly
Impossible to handle 9900k even on stock. It overheats easily even at 100% fan speed
Anyway I plan to delid it and use custom IHS
Anybody tried to apply liquid metal between processor heatspreader and cooling surface ?