[Acer Aspire 1410/1810t/1810tz] Timeline Tweaks (2)

Guys, I just installed my Bluetooth module. I did not have to take it apart but I had to do more than remove a few screws from the front. I had to remove the keyboard and take out all of the screws under it. By then I had enough room to use tweezers to plug in the module, then I slipped the little circuit board into it's place. All told it took about twenty minutes. BT is working great. PM me if you have any questions.

John

 

justaguyinvegas, have you noticed a very small beep when you put your ear close to ventilation slit?

 

I have not.

 

Thanks, when I get my module will try this..Was it hard to remove the keyboard, any advice?

 

Just be careful. Do the center two clips first. I used a tiny screwdriver to gently lift up the keyboard from the rest of the clips (two more on top and two on sides) then disconnect the cable by lifting up the little grey/black bar on the connector. Keyboard should now swing up and out.

I hope this helps...

 

Thanks, waiting for the module and 4gb ram plan to do both at the same time.

 

First message, written with my SU7300 1810T!
Feels great so far...
I wanted to do the undervolting tweak, but am no expert at all. Seems the SU7300 must be handled differently. Do we know the ideal settings?

RMClock - CPU Info tells the following about Multiplier (FID) and Req. Vcore (VID):
Current: 8.0x & 0.9875V
Startup: 6.0x & 1.0125V
Minimal: 6.0x & 0.8250V
Maximal: 6.0x & 1.6125V

Are those required numbers trustworthy?
In any case, when i get to "Profiles", the only option under FID is 6.0x
Don't know much about these things. Maybe someone can help!

 

I can confirm either that since I switched to Win 7, the battery life dropped significantly. I had 6 hours of browsing on Vista and now I get only 4.5h using Win7.

 

same here, i've yet to figure out a solution. i never installed the realtek drivers either.

 

I get like 8-12 hours on win7. Did a clean install of win7.

 

Hi, wondering which module and driver combination you are using? I ordered the Broadcom BCM92046. I decided today to download the driver so I'd be ready to install and the link to the acer site the seller provides now shows a foxconn driver? I searched and found the Broadcom driver elsewhere, am I correct in thinking I want the Broadcom driver?

 

So, is the Belkin 10,2 sleeve the real deal for this Acer series? I heard some saying it's a bit too small for it.
I have an 12,1 Belkin, which is too big for it, too much room for movement, so i need something different.
Like the asymmetric zip a lot on the Belkin, so I'll probably give the 10,2 a try.

Other options? I want it cheap and without any other pockets. Just a sleeve. (I store a mouse and the power cable in different pockets. Better choice for me and my ever full backpack...

 

I just got this one, fits and looks good. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...&cm_re=netbook_sleeves-_-34-987-007-_-Product

 

I know the specs say 4GB is the max (2x2GB), someone asked if anyone had tried a single 4GB stick or 2x4GB. What stops this?

 

i have the same issue..any fixes?

 

can anyone tell me if its ok to uninstall this?

its the intel driver that's 1.19gb in size
should there be two drivers installed?



Thanks

 

Yes, you want the broadcom driver. I am using the 2045 module.

 

I just received the AS1410-2936 (Red) with dual core processor and 160 GB HDD about a week ago. It is for my wife and she uses it mostly for browsing and word processing.

After she has been typing on it for the past week she has noticed that the "s" key on the keyboard does not always work, so I also tried it and if you hit it dead center and firmly it works, but any off-center hits with less firmness and it is hit-or-miss (quite a few misses). I checked all of the other keys and they work okay. This is a US keyboard.

Has anyone else had this problem and, if so, is there any way to fix it short of returning it?

Thanks for the input.

 

My AS1410 is on bios version 3115. Should I be updating the bios?

 

I have the AS1410-2936 (SU2300) and when I run HWmonitor (64bit) it doesn't update the information, it just remains static. The numbers seem to be rather low too when I know that's not the case. Despite running the cpu stressing software, the temps never change in HWmonitor.

Anyone else have this issue with HWmonitor?

 

You're not the only one. I'm just relying on 1810tray and Everest.

 

Quoting myself for a bump.
Any info on the undervolting of SU7300?

Battery Bar says that my full runtime is around 6:40. I don't think that's good enough...

 

delete, delete, I eat meat!

 

Just installed my bt module and 4gig ram wasn't easy but I guess if I did it most people could do it. I needed to remove the keyboard that was the worst part.

 

I have been working on undervolting my as1410 (has SU2300 dual core cpu).

RMclock shows I can only choose 6x multiplier with the lowest voltage being .90 volts.

Is that the lowest voltage we can run with the SU2300 or is there another way to get it lower?

Thanks for feedback.

 

I upgraded from 3115 to 3303, but didn't notice any difference :S

 

I actually logged on to address the BIOS password issue, before I do however, I would like to say I have been trolling this ongoing discussion all night, and feel privelaged to have found this great wealth of knowledge! Thank you all. I am waiting on my 4110-2099 with the 2300. (Seems to be the latest build.) Anyway, looks like I will be one of the last. These little guys are like the laughing elmo three years back! I have never seen a more popular computer. Pricepoint makes all the differance. Anyway, thanks to you all for the incredible insight and information you have all managed to compile!
VERY IMPRESSIVE!
Now, for that password. If I had to guess, I would say you have been shipped a return. You will not find a locked BIOS retail. No way.
That being said, you may be able to reset it by clearing your CMOS. THis requires accessing your MOBO, and reset by jumper pins, or the more simple way is to pop the battery, (watch battery, size of a US dime) for a couple of minutes. This should do it. A BIOS flash may also reset the P/W.
Either way, it goes back to my initial observation in regard to this books popularity. I would guess, you got someones trade in for the equal priced 2300 based system.
Good Luck,
R.

 

I would really like to know if anyone has managed a fully functional Iatkos hack on one of the 2300's? I know the processor support is there.
R.

 

delete, delete, I eat meat!

 

Did you try undervolting? I'm trying to get feedback on undervolting the SU2300 (mine doesn't show an option under 0.90 volts in the RMutility).

Edit: Nevermind... I forgot to do this:

Edit 2: I have options to go under 0.90 volt but the RMutility will not force it under that. It seems to default to .90 no matter what I select.

Any SU2300 users that have been able to get it undervolted below 0.90 volts?

 

As for the BT and keyboard. It seems very simple. Sorry, I dont have a link, but watched it done on a You tube video. The guy was installing a new fan. Just a few screws (maybe 10) and a credit card to work the keyboard clips. In his notes, he said he was doing fan upgrades for friends, and had the whole thing down to a ten minute start to finish process.

 

Guess I saved the link. Here ya go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1BdVA_RfHs

Good luck,
R

 

delete, delete, I eat meat!

 

Yea, I don't have that fan rattle that people were complaining about with the AS1410 I bought (SU2300 with pre-installed Win7 64bit). Laptop could run cooler though, mine idles at 40C and under normal usage of browsing with AIM open and music playing, it hits like 50C.

EDIT: hakujin are you talking about that video? Its an Acer Aspire One.

 

delete, delete, I eat meat!

 

Actually, I just placed the order Saturday. Scheduled delivery is Friday, so I dont know much about noise yet. Noise never really bothered me, I am nearly manic when it comes to heat, however.
I actually spent 100 bucks on a cooler for my 17' HP.
Need any advice on external cooling? Ask me, I've tried them all.
That said, I dont expect this guy to run any cooler than usual.
Amongst other things, I am a writer; As my new field research engine, I expect to run this little guy pretty hard. But I am confident its up for the task. I have been waiting for this netbook in that the first and second wave of lower end models just didnt have any real guts, and I am very impatiant when it comes to after-click lag time. Though I wont be forking over 500 bucks on an SSD, I will be bumping up to a high end 7200 HD, not for size, but heat, in that the 7200's tend to run alot cooler (and quieter, conversationaly), than the 54's.
I am honestly really anxious, like a kid at Xmas!
R.

 

And as for the BJ's price -- 407 shipped.

 

delete, delete, I eat meat!

 

Yeah. I wanted to see if I could push the battery life a bit further. It looks like the processor is locked to prevent undervolting below 0.90 volts (which is what i have it at right now). That probably translates into a savings of ... umm.... 5 minutes of battery life?

Anyways... I'm averaging around 4.5 hours of constant wifi browsing/movie watching. I was hoping to push that to 5 hours, but no luck at this point.

I'm wondering if a fresh win7 install will really increase my battery life that much. I have disabled a bunch of bloat in the msconfig startup, uninstalled everything I could, and tweaked whatever I could tweak.

 

Sorry, should have addressed this first. The architecture is differant, but simliar enough that the assemblage will likely be nearly identical.
I was just posting to help with the blue tooth install, demonstrating that removing the keyboard is no biggy. For those who have done this type of work, its pretty simple, and becomes intuitive, for those not though, the thought of taking a laptop apart can be pretty nerve racking, especially a new one. The video demonstrates how fairly simple it is.
I would offer a word of caution in regard to the clips that keep the keyboard in place; Though I've not taken one of these apart, its been my experiance the clips, which are just small palstic tabs meant to lock the keyboard in place in the main chasis/housing, will break if too much pressure is used.
I know it seems like common sense, but if someone has never done, then they have no idea what to expect.
Even with a video, theory to application can sometimes prove disastrous....
R.

 

Depending on the drive, a 7200 is noticably cooler than a 5400.
It spins faster, but doesnt work nearly as hard.
And yes, exterior cooling is mostly just extra noise.
This cooler is the one I use on my Macbook, and it honestly reduces heat by 10-15 degrees consistantly, and dependably. But you have to start the two together, which is to say its far less effective if you dont plug it in until the machines already hot. The platform coolers are mostly a joke, but this one's the real deal, and fairly cheap. Of course its only usefull in a stationary environment. http://www.antec.com/Believe_it/product.php?id=NzM=
If the link doesnt work, its the "Laptop Cooler To Go"
Another one I have found very effective, and WILL work on the field, is the Evercool Magic, but I think it might be a little big for the 1410 exhaust port.
R.

 

Just got my 1810T (finally!) and I cleaned off all the unneeded software it came with, flashed the bios to v1.3303 and am currently installing avast! antivirus. The next thing I want to do is get up to date drivers. I know I should uninstall the video driver first before installing the newer one from Intel, but what about the chipset driver?

 

Try like cutting down the processes and stuff. I have 1810tray set my fan on slow when im just doing normal browsing and surfing. The sound noise isn't noticeable. When I'm playing youtube, Guild Wars, or watching videos that isn't DXVA supported, the temp on the 1410 reaches close to 60. I always thought it would run cooler than my Dell, but now its starting to mimic it temp wise under use.

 

I'm getting just under 6 hours battery life on mine (specs in sig) with a fresh installation of 7 Ultimate x64. This is using BatteryBar also which has been "learning" my usage patterns for about a week now. On battery I turn the brightness all the way down, FN + Brightness up twice, Wifi on, and then use a custom RMClock profile that some post in here I saw suggested. I don't recall the link off the top of my head. I also disable the LAN adapter since I don't need it if I'm on WiFi.

 

What he said

Finally someone answers. I've asked this question 4-5 times in this and other threads and it was overlooked. Acer's Vista 32-bit home premium -> Win7 64-bit home premium is legit with Acer's 32-bit key, I guess you just need to get a 64-bit disc/media somewhere. GOOD!

 

What are the average discharge rates of your notebooks anyway?
I don't seem to get beyond 8mW, though i am usually on higher levels.

battery capacity shows 62.160mWh
Not happy with the total runtime atm though. 6:20 probably.

 

delete, delete, I eat meat!

 

dupe.dupe.dupe. pls. delete

 

delete, delete, I eat meat!