[Acer Aspire 1410/1810t/1810tz] Timeline Tweaks (2)

I average 5mW for standard browsing and office app usage. Jumps to 8 occasionally.

 

What were you seeing for battery life before you installed 7 ultimate?

Did you disable the LAN adapter in BIOS or in Device Manager?

I'd be interested in the custom RMclock profile... if you recall it.

Thanks for the replies

 

I didn't have BatteryBar installed then, I popped my X-25M in, then installed Windows 7 and went from there. I disable the LAN adapter from the network menu in Windows, it disables it in the device manager too.

The basic RMClock thing is to set Windows to maximum battery (make your own profile, but base it off maximum battery) so all the power saving settings are enabled. Then use RMClock for performance on demand -- all the battery savings when your computer doesn't need it, but jumps to full power instantly when your CPU is stressed. Works pretty well for me, I can't find the post though as the forum search here is atrocious.

 

delete, delete, I eat meat!

 

delete, delete, I eat meat!

 

coretemp shows about 5-6 less than 1810 tray on my 1410. seems the difference between your two programs is about 5 also, does it stay around 5, even when the cpu runs hotter?

if you are using 1810tray to turn the fan on at a certain temp, but want to use the temp youre getting from rmclock, you could adjust the "hold cpu temp" setting in 1810 tray by 5 degrees (or whatever the difference between your two cpu temp programs is)

although, about not getting your cpu temp under 50, even when not doing much, mine is at 47-48 (according to 1810tray) even with some light browsing and whatnot going on in the background and the fan is on very slow

 

Absolutely don't have a problem with the fan and the temperature.
The battery life is bugging though...

 

Ok, done some tweaking in the energy options, but still can't get the undervolting running. Can only enter a value for multiplier 6.0x (and i set the DWORD accordingly...)

But: After disabling Aero on battery, Battery Bar shows an insane amount of running time. at 87% battery charge, running time left: 8:51. 15 minutes ago it was at 9:06, so it's probably accurate?
The discharge rate is still hovering at 8 mW, all times, mostly a tad above (8.4-8.6), but sometimes going at 7.5 too.

We'll see what's the truth there. 9 hours on surfing would be absolutely sufficient for me, i think that's a good value, isn't it?
But it's probably just way off...


If someone has any tricks on the undervolting, i am ready to hear it...

 

They must have a really high quality battery on the 1810 versus the 1410.

Battery Bar consistently shows me 4.5 hours available after full charge. But the RMclock utility shows 8-9 hours in the battery menu (which is absolutely wrong, Battery Bar is actually on the money).

I wonder if I have something goofed up or a simple option to change things around .

Too bad it's locked from undervolting below 0.90 volts.

 

My discharge rate is around 5-7mW while surfing (WiFi on etc) and running around 50-52. The minute i try to play a video from youtube or from my HDD it jumps to 10+ mW

I still get around 7+ hours of battery life. Notice that i`m running a Intel X25-M inside, which as it seems helps a bit

 

Same problem here. have you found a way to undervolt it?

 

thanks nuuser, that's what I did last night; made the spread between 1810tray about 5 degrees before it kicks on. Anyone else use 1810tray for the 1410 and notice this discrepancy?

There's another discrepancy between two reporting apps as well: Batterybar and Windows. Windows on full battery charge at at idle tells me 6 hours and 35 min while Battery Bar reports a consistent 4:17 and full lifetime as 4:31, which sucks if that is true. Batterybar, when pc is idle, shows a consistent -6739 to -7117mW discharge rate. RMClock also seems more consistent with Windows.Guess I will find out which is correct in 4 hours but I'm pulling for team RMClock/Win as I didn't buy this lappy for a paltry 4 hours batt life

 

oh... forgot to mention. in my fan/heat debacle last night, I realized that the WD Scorpio in this sucker has a high pitched whine in it... really sucks. I've had this same problem in HDDs before but usually when they aged some and/or WDs before they went to Fluid Dynamic Bearings. Wonder if I could get a HDD replacement based on that or if I should even bother, instead opting to sell HDD and just go with an upgrade.

 

I'm noticing the huge difference in battery prediction between RMclock and Battery Bar too.

I'm averaging 4.5 hours with my su2300 and I'm very envious of anyone with an Asus 1005HA-PUX right now with their 11 hours of battery life!

 

haha, I wouldn't go that far moovius. that's one craptacular cpu and gpu in those, not to mention screen res. Maybe the Timeline 3810 w/9hr. That's what I get for trying to save $150 bucks. :/


BTW, I came across that nasty Intel GFX Bug on the 1986 drivers, or at least I think that's what it was. After plugging in my pc after resuming from hibernate on battery. Big flashing bars all over the screen and gibberish...

 

saw on an earlier thread people are formatting and installing win7. can the OEM product key on these be used for on a win7 home premium disc? TIA

 

BatteryBar lists my full lifetime as 6:25, I've been trying to use the laptop on battery as much as possible so that I can get an accurate prediction out of it. I don't have the Intel Toolbox yet to enable the advanced power management on the X-25M, so I expect that figure to climb.

Does anybody have a download link to the Toolbox? Intel pulled it for a System Restore bug but I never use it anyway so I don't care that it's bugged.

 

i've just installed battery bar... my battery is pretty low right now, but i've been watching it and have noticed some things...

battery bar, 1810tray, and the windows meter all have the same percentage, and they have remained the same since i have been watching them.
although, the times are all different, batterybar being the lowest. the windows "time remaining" jumps all over the place, within minutes it can say "1 hour 15 minutes left" to "52 minutes left" and back again. battery bar doesnt seem to go up and down like that

batterybar says full life is 6:03, but i have just installed it... maybe it needs time to be accurate... actually, in the time that it took to write this message, it now says 6:05, i guess i'll report back later

 

There are so many different models discussed on this thread, and each can have different configurations that I'm never really sure which model anyone is discussing. I'm sure that my questions have been answered, But I would very much appreciate assistance with my specific model's Configurations:

I just received a 1410-8913 in Ruby Red with an Intel Core 2 Solo SU3500 processor running 32 bit Vista HP. 2gb of 667 ram.

As I understand it both Vista and Win 7, 32 Bit Versions, can not address 4GB of Ram. I have also read that the 800 Ghz PC 6400 does make a noticeable improvement when doing intensive graphic processes. Since memory should be bought in pairs: Would my specific model perform faster with 2GB of 800
Ghz ram, should I get 3GB (2+1) or 4Gb of ram (667 Ghz or 800 Ghz)?

The software I expect to use on my 1410 are Adobe Lightroom; MS Office, and Garmin MapSource. I believe that all three programs are 32 bit. Is there any advantage in attempting to install Win 7 in 64 Bit on my Model using these programs?

If I wanted to install Win7 64bit, I understand the challenge is the drivers. Again I'm confused about loading the drivers - a Chicken or Egg type question: Do I install the 64Bit drivers BEFORE trying to install 64 Bit Win 7 or after the software is loaded?

Will Acer send me an upgrade disk with all versions of Win 7 installed? How do i do a 64Bit install if that is a good idea on my model 1410.

This thread suggests several drivers tweaks. Should I ignore the drivers on the Acer web site and use the drivers listed here? Why doesn't Acer have the most current drivers?

Is my understanding correct that all I need do is load the latest dated driver and it will include all previous fixes?

Thank you advance for your assistance.
Dave

 

Installing 64-bit Windows 7 will help with multi tasking of 32bit programs, aswell as addressing the memory issue.

As for RAM, 3GB or 4GB it's upto you. my 1810TZ came with 3GB of 800MHz, but you could use 4GB (2x2GB) instead.

You will need to format and install Windows 7 64-bit, after which you can install the Acer software and drivers. All of which are available to download from the acer support website.

 

No, not all software is available on Acer website! Only the drivers...

 

The eRecovery software is.

 

Unfortunately not.
I'll look into that on weekend.

Much room for improvement there. The readings from my last post where way off it seems.
Interesting enough: Total runtime on battery bar: 5:30. Very weird, as it has definetely more.
As i said, need further testing, but i am optimistic, that we get it eventually done

 

Not sure if it's been mentioned but I've got a better way, takes a little bit more thinking but it maintains all your important module info/details and adds the higher speeds to it.

 

Even better way: Install 4GB OCZ PC2-6400 SODIMM - $55.98 after rebate - $10 when Amazon refunds Wired Special offfer $10.

Anybody here familiar with Acer return process or better yet Western Digital? I need to get rid of this 160GB Scorpio; the intermittent high pitched whine/squeal is driving me bananas, but I don't wanna send in the entire laptop. Although it wouldn't make a huge difference as I've already imaged the HDD, it just seems unnecessary. Will WD even talk to me since the drive is OEM, or must I go through Acer or Newegg?

 

Why would I pay $56USD for 4GB DDR2-800 when I paid $30CDN for 2x2GB Kingston DDR2-667 6-8mths ago? Also the method I posted overclocks the ram and keeps it overclocked even if you remove the ram and no matter where you take your ram to for FREE!

now I need some expert opinions. Using my method to edit the stock SPD timing table instead of overwriting it with a totally different module's SPD table; these timing values are left unchanged. The faster module has faster/lower latency for these timings so I need to know if having them left at their stock value makes the DRAM chips more stable or if the DRAM chips are actually capable for faster values for the list below:

Code:

SDRAM Access time from Clock (tAC): 0.45 ns vs 0.40
Maximum Data Access Time from Clock at CL X-1 0.50 ns vs 0.45
Maximum Data Access Time from Clock at CL X-2 0.60 ns vs 0.50
Address and CMD Setup Time Before Clock (tIS): 0.20 ns vs 0.17
Address and CMD Hold Time After Clock (tIH): 0.27 ns vs 0.25
Data Input Setup Time Before Strobe (tDS): 0.10 ns vs 0.05
Data Input Hold Time After Strobe (tDH): 0.17 ns vs 0.12
Max skew between DQS and all DQ signals (tDQSQ): 0.24 ns vs 0.20
Max Read Data Hold Skew Factor (tQHS): 0.34 ns vs 0.30

 

To clarify there shouldn't be any issue with the webcam driver out of the box, right? Only if Windows 7 overwrites in in Windows Update?

 

Not sure if this Guide will answer your questions.
But you can certainly gather some good info from it.
Clean install of Windows 7 on Acer

 

About undervolting SU7300

With CCPUID it seems that i can manage every possible multiplier. I actgually don't know if i do it right though, i have never worked with that program...
can anyone share experiences?

 

hi lfdm. i use ccpuid, too.

i set 6,5 as a multiplier (to get 1,3ghz) and 0,8750 as the voltage.
CPU-Z reports that it uses now 0,875V ... but how can i see which voltages it uses when it reduces the multiplier? or does it even reduce the speed when I change the voltage?

 

I frankly don't have a clue right now. I can't see lower battery consumption either when i do that, but haven't tested it extensively so far - as mentioned earlier, no time before weekend


(+ i don't think that ccpuid is the right thing for us, as it doesn't take advantage of the SuperLFM from what i read......)

 

Good for you buddy, wish I got in back then, but to answer your 1st question... it's no longer 6-8 months ago. It's well known that DDR2 SODIMM has more than doubled in the last '6-8' months across the industry due to retooling for DDR3 in semiconductor/nand industry and not likely to ever go back down to those prices.

That was tongue in cheek anyay. Of course, free is always better. I just wanted 4GB of RAM @ 800mhz speeed (as I'm sure others may as well) and that's the best deal to come around in the limited time I've been watching prices. Right now 4GB hovers in the $75-80 area; Frys sometimes does exceptional deals (below $50, even $40) but it's an illusion as they will assuredly not have any in stock when you check. Anyway, sell 2GB on craigslist or fleabay and net total comes out to ~$20 anyway.

 

der_mali, how did you know how to locate the voltage regulator on this? i used the pics from this thread's hardware undervolting guide to find key areas on my asus UL20A to do the same undervolting, but i can't find the voltage regulator. is there some general things to look for in all voltage regulators?

also, is it possible to do a CPU pin mod on these ULV chips? you can't physically take the CPU off the motherboard can you?

 

I'm using the latest Synpatics driver Laptopvideo2go with two finger scrolling. But I don't like the lag between my finger movement and the screen movement. Is there a way to change it?

Or should I use another driver?

 

I have a 1410, su2300 laptop, and the full capacity is only 48,676mWh, how much mWh does 1410, su2300 usually have??

 

my 1410 with 2300 says 47,520 mWh in batterybar, it also says 0% wear...

 

Sorry I didn't know prices went up in the last 6-8mths lol. To think I bought those 2 modules 6mths before I even thought I'd get a laptop. Smart thinking on my part.

 

Hi all,
Got the wife 1810tz for Christmas and have Win7 Ultimate to install.
What about all the hardware drivers, motherboard and all? Where are you all getting those when wiping it clean for a fresh install?
Thanks for any feedback,
Scott

 

Just received my 1410-8913 (su3500) and downloaded the battery Bar. Capacity is 49007 mWh battery wear is 0% of 48,840 mWh

Interesting that the Capacity is greater than the amount available for wear???

 

When I'm updating the chipset driver for my 1810T, it's fine to install/run the ActiveX app on Intel's page, right? It's not a permanent thing in IE that'll end up eating resources?

Also is there anything I need to uninstall first before installing the new version, like with the graphics or audio drivers?

 

After installing the latest Synaptic driver I noticed no lag and the gestures worked great.

 

Thanks, that looks like a different driver. I'll try it.

 

o.k., definitively going to return my Acer 1410. This intermittent high pitched audible noise is distracting, if not downright frustrating. It is louder than the hdd and when the fan is off, it is clear and bothersome.

At first, I assumed it was coming from the HDD but 2nd guessed that due to the fact that the sound was more distinct from the HSF area. By removed the bottom cover, I have deduced the whine to be coming from the SO-DIMM ram slot area. It doesn't appear to be the Samsung RAM as it happens with the OCZ too. As well, using only one RAM slot or the other doesn't change it.

I've already contacted Acer and plan to contact Newegg shortly, but before I proceed, I wanted to know if anyone else notices this sound. Obviously it will affect each person different due to hearing levels but if ANYONE could please login and put your ear next to the RAM slot area (if the sound is not already distinct) and verify whether you hear the sound or not, It would be very helpful to me.

If the problem persists between different 1410s, I will need to just get a refund. If it's just me, I will try for a replacement.

Thank you.

edit: btw, I have found at least one other person who seems to have the exact same problem. See 1st 1 egg review on newegg:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834115655

 

I seem to be blessed/cursed with good hearing. I've had to modify DVR's so that I can stand to have them in the bedroom. If I hold my 1410 up to my ear (with the fan off) I can hear what I'm pretty sure is the disk drive spinning. That seems to be the only sound. Putting my ear to the back of the 1410 (and being sure no one is watching me so they don't come and take me away ), I can hear the drive but as I move my ear over the RAM slot area the sound dimishes--I believe the only sound is from the drive.

When the 1410 is sitting in my lap, ambient sound in the room masks any noise it makes other than just barely a whisper from the drive. If the refrigerator kicked on in the next room, I wouldn't hear the 1410 at all.

Good luck...noise is annoying!

 

Next question:
Are there more silent HDD's than the Western Digital WD3200BEVT that runs in my 1810t? (SSD not an option, i think, too expensive...)

 

Hitachi 5K320 is usually more silent. Samsung has some silent 320GB drives too.

 

Second that -- at least my stock Hitachi 320 G is so silent, it makes me feel guilty about getting an SSD (which I am getting anyway for durability)

 

As I wrote in the other thread, I had the same problem as you. A motherboard replacement repair worked somewhat for me as the noise has become almost inaudible running on battery. When the AC adapter is plugged the noise is present, but is definitely smaller than before. The amount of noise going in the audio line has also become smaller so now I just plug in a headphone and listen to music when on AC.

 

Thank you. I am convinced now that if you don't hear it, it doesn't propagate to all 1410s, because you would defiintely hear it over the HDD as you moved your ear over to the RAM. I don't really mind the HDD so much and was going to replace it because of this w/ a 320GB WD Blue, but glad I realized thazt it wasn't the source.

Interesting. You and others here are probably more familiar but I think I remember something to do w/ a recall due to an audio wire overheating to the left side of the mouse and Acer fixing certains. Is it possible this problem is in some way affected by this?

Anyway, I concur with your estimation regarding shielding, maybe electro magnetic interference of some sort. I think the reason it doesn't occur at bios is that (at least for mine), it's synchronous wtih read and/or writes to RAM. I'm convinced it's comeing from the RAM (maybe beneath) ram area.

I've already received an RMA fro newegg and will give a go with a new unit. Acer wanted to me to do hard reset holding the power button and to make sure the Bios is set to default before proceeding futher so it would seem they didn't hear what I said and are looking for a guniea pig. Hopefully a replacment eliminates this problem. I am at least hopefull now.


BTW, my other Dell lappy, has the EXACT SAME problem. Only... it's far less audible, maybe due to increased insulation in the case, less interference, the system fan running all the time (which btw is much quieter than 1410), or a combination of all 3.

 

repost


Also what does Acer Screensaver do? Haven't screensavers pretty much been obsolete/pointless for a decade?