[Acer Aspire 1410/1810t/1810tz] Timeline Tweaks (2)

Belkin F8N140 10,2" doesn't fit!!
please update the list!

 

Thanks, done.

 

Thanks for posting this. Just installed my bluetooth module in my 1410 11.6", and the guide was very useful. Personally, I don't like the idea of the shorter "pry open the front and use tweezers" method. Besides, now I know how to take apart my laptop without marking up the chassis for any future mods. And my bluetooth works great!!

One thing I'm wondering is if the second mini-PCIe in the 1410 is usable? I haven't seen anything on this topic anywhere. There is no mini-PCIe socket, but I can solder one on easily enough. The only question is: is it the USB flavor, or the actual genuine PCIe flavor? Apparently in the Acer Aspire One D150, the second mini-PCIe slot is actually just using USB.

 

Yes , scottie , i have the same question .
I am a new owner of a 1410 11,6" . And the question :

It is possible to solder second mini pciex working conector ?

Maybe we can use it for TDT or SAT cards or Video HD Cards ..
Or for future upgrades ...

If someone can give us same clues .... !!!

Thanks

 

Well if I find out that the "missing" pcix connection points ARE live all it's gonna do is tick me off because of the next to nuthin' cost for Acer to attach the freakin' slot and I know damn well that I cant solder one of those on.

 

Need help !!!

Can not use rmclock . I have read all the guides in this forum to configure my acer aspire 1410 celeron 743 . Windows 7 Home premium x64 .But i got a problem ...

When i am going to profiles , perfomance on demand . I can not select any multiplier of voltage , so not possible to make undervoltage ...

Use p-state transitions selection it is not activated ...

What it is the problem ..?

Thanks

 

I think the new intel driver has fixed the flickering I was noticing... primarily on power save mode. It's a little early to tell for sure... but I think it's definitely better.

Update... Nope, I was wrong... when I dim it a bit, especially at the third and forth notch up, it's still flickering. dang it. Maybe it's just... the way it is...

 

Hi guys,

just wondering , has a solution been found to the freezing/ crashing issue some have when using setfsb ?

(around page 44 of this thread)

I have 1410, tme modded(inteks version) , stock 2gb ram flashed to 6400, win7 32bit, u3500.

Even when I underclock marginally, don't change clock , or overclock marginally I get this problem . I'm using sl505...254b and sl505...264b (that's what I can remember!

Any guidance greatly appreciated, I'd love to get up to 1.6 or 1.8 GHz

(and if the answer is somewhere in here, forgive me, it's tediious to go through this thread! But I have read many pages on it)

 

Installed the new Intel Windows 7/Vista 64-bit graphics driver
version 15.16.5.2021 (8.15.10.2021) yesterday on my 1810TZ.

Got rather severe banding distortion upon wakeup just a few minutes ago.

 

Seems to be a mixed boat but welcome aboard.

 

Celeron 743 can not be undervolted.

Try Crystal CPUID, still no undervolting I think, but by pressing F4 you can underclock it.

 

Here's the short version; someone did solder the connector on for the purpose of using a HSDPA (3G) WWAN card and I will update this post if/when I find [ edit: found!] his original thread. HOWEVER... after adding connector, anntena & SIM card, he discovered the port was disabled by Acer (BIOS?), so please be warned & do your homework before investing any serious time in the project. I noted this in my "pictorial" of my 3G equipped 1810TZ. Speaking of which, my system "sees" my HUAWEI EM770W PCIe mini-card as a USB device (USB\VID_12D1&PID_1404)... as opposed to the WLAN half-mini-card which is PCI (PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_0083&...)

 

I installed it yesterday on my as1410 , and now the games have lost the ability to play in a resolution that matches the ratio of the screen.

I made "custom resolution"s to solve this, but only some of them appear in some games... Many games insist on a 4:3 ratio!

This was not an issue on the previous driver( not an intel one, some stock win7 / acer one I think, I'm not certain!)


guess a bit of playing around or config files for the games is in order. Or else there is some blatent solution i am oblivious of !

 

Go back to the older driver....

The new one is still buggy I found out.

 

Yes,.. anyway, I will be putting on win7 64bit (im currently on 32bit) , 4gb ram, and I wish to god I will get it overclocked successfully,..

Then I can relax

 

delete, delete, I eat meat!

 

@hakujin, I'm at a loss as to this "No more whine from RAM either with this new one" ? Never "heard" any.
As to WD, one I do notice some vib from my 640gb blue HD, honestly only kept the original 160gb in long enough to burn the restore set so cant really compare. On warranty, WD is really easy to deal with on replacements when it fails their diagnostic test as long as the manufacture date(on drive label) is within the timeframe. I've never replaced one for vibration though, may not fly with them.

 

i mentioned (some pages ago) about a high pitched audible noise emanating from RAM area. I had to send that notebook in for a replacement. This 1410 has no such issue. I surmise it may have been due to EMI or inadequate shielding. This one had the well known fan metal on metal contact noise... literally sounded like a electric clipper/shaver.

 

For anyone having troubles with overclocking after TME ( sandood, and probably others)

I've been following p22 or there abouts of this thread. My experiences:

I did the tme mod, then after pressing set fsb the hdd blue led locks on and enivitably must reboot.

Tried changing reg14 as described, similar problems. Also reg 6 of the lower registers, and try o/c. Again problems.

I now have my 1410 opened up, to make certain I chose the right clock generator ( I did!).

Then I realised, for the tme mod, i used tiny copper wire, which may have a insulating coating!! I know some small copper wires do, and u gotta scratch at the tips with a blade or sand paper. Anyway, that thought struck me. So I decided to remove it. ( I also have r146 removed now) and tried set fsb with out the mod,

Low and behold I'm getting similar results! I am able to move slider etc, and when I oc, it locks/ bsod..

In conclusion , it is highly probable I did a bad the mod, and will try soon with more appropiate wire, and will report back.

Sandood, if ur still keeping an eye on this thread and see this, I suggest you keep it in mind it is possible u got a bad unlock , and at least visually inspect it ...!!

Later

 

Are you sure about that? I've been doing some extensive research tonight for a new hard drive and have heard some warranty horror stories, which concur with WD policy on OEM drives that come in a system (i.e. this lappy)

http://support.wdc.com/warranty/policy.asp#policy?lang=en

It says no limited warranty policy. Dually, I ran the serial number on WD website and warranty shows as ineligible. Which means, must go through Acer.

 

Well best I can say is that the only oem pcs i've dealt with a hd return were dells(after the 1 yr warranty), and who's to say that the drives were original. Never had an issue with oem drives(bought online) for warranty service. So based on what you found all I can say is "that sucks"
Thanx for the warning though

 

I think I'll be going with Samsung Spinpoint 500GB for $74.99 OTD (out the door).

 

Launch manager.

And yes, WD's "upgrade" is a bit of a joke, better than retail, but come on.

 

in other news, wd data lifeguard tools sucks. something about a cable test error; some say it's a via chipset problems; other say trying sata instead of ahci, but nobody seems to really know. All I KNOW is that it doesn't work on the 1410... don't know why I should bother really. It's not like I'll be content with this drive, acoustic vibrations are annoying... here's to the sammy spinpoint being a smoother drive... was gonna go with the 5K500.B Travelstar with uber low power on load and standby (1/2 most other current 2.5s) until I realized while in theory that sounds great, it really only yields a few extra minutes in battery life.

 

delete, delete, I eat meat!

 

I have a "sammy" 500gb f3 in my uh..."mac" and it's faster than the old 74gb raptor in the main rig, gotta get another one

That's the silver lining to that route

 

I installed the BT module on my 1810TZ a month ago, but not having anything to do with it, I've let it OFF until yesterday that I received a bluetooth mouse.

My idea was to replace the corded mouse I use that takes aproximately 0.5W with a BT wireless one, thinking that at most the power consumption will not grow.

But once paired and used for some time I discovered that the remaining battery time was very low for the remaining battery percentage, so I made the measures and discovered that the BT module takes up to 2.5W while ON

I tried all the setting in BT and in the BT drivers. The BT is set in not advertising mode and the testing is done without the mouse or anything being connected. 2.5W

So I'll return to my corded mouse and left the BT one as a remote for when I have the 1810 connected to the TV.

My 1810 in iddle mode, medium brighness takes 5.1 to 5.5W, WIFI could take from 0.1 to 2W. So 2.5W for a mouse will reduce the battery time at least a 33%.

 

Wow, I hadn't heard anyone mentioning that kind of power draw from an inboard BT. If thats the reality I may change my mind on going that route. The only REAL reason I wanted it was for a mouse & 1 less usb port in use.

 

Just wanted to chime in about my experience with doing a fresh reinstall of Win 7. I DL'd the Win 7 x64 ISO from DigitalRiver using IE8 and burned the ISO to a DVD. I then enabled the F12 boot menu in my 1810T's BIOS and rebooted from the burned disc, using my LG portable DVD burner.

Prikolchik's superb guide made this one about as easy as possible:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=433602

Prior to this, I had burned a set of Acer recovery DVDs just "in case".

Installation proceeded smoothly and I nuked everything on my HDD, including the recovery partition.

A few items to note: Pretty much everything was recognized by Windows 7, but I updted my Intel INF package and the GMA 4500 video drivers just to be safe. I also installed the latest Intel wi-fi, Realtek HD audio, and Synaptics touchpad drivers just to be on the safe side. I then ran the Broadcom BT updater utility. Windows Update found a newer Ethernet driver so I installed that as well.

Also, despite running the same (latest available) Intel GMA driver before and after, I'm not seeing any display corruption upon wakeup now, so I'm glad to see that glitch gone.

I downloaded the Acer Launch Manager utility for the 1820PT, as it is a bit newer version on Acer's site than the version posted for the 1410/1810 series. (2.0.00 vs. 3.0.10). I didn't bother reinstalling Acer eRecovery Management, obviously. I think the version available for download is older than the one shipped with my 1810.

One minor item that's worth noting is tha I did have to take ownership of the downloaded Acer certificate via an elevated Administer command prompt in Windows in order to move it to C:\. Otherwise, you can just leave it in the Downloads folder and change your command line inputs to reflect whatever directory it's in.

Despite de-bloating my prior Acer factory Win7 image, things still feel a good bit snappier now after the clean Win7 install before optimization than they did previously. Windows Experience scores are unchanged, but it definitely boots & shuts down faster and feels snappier overall, even after installing all of my usual apps & games.

 

I just got Acer 1410 but with celeron 1.2Ghz single core 732 CPU, here thats the only model i could get...
I did full reinstall put windows XP, Ubuntu 9.10 and i the end Windows 7, then i updated Windows 7 to latest GMA driver (15.16.5.2021) at one time i had one opened clip in MP-HC (uning dxva), clip was HD MP4 and is full of glitches if dxva is enabled and while i tested the clip playback in background i unpacked few files.. then i noticed that win7 reported corrupted files on HDD (
Run chkdisk and it faund a bunch of bad entries and some files were corrupted..
So today i installed new win7 on same partition and at the moment i have latest GMA driver from win7 update (its from avgust 2009 version) the same mp4 HD clip i have are garbaged if i use dxva so duno what wos the reason for file corruption on HDD
HDD s.m.a.r.t. say all is fine

 

Hi everyone.

I'm new on this forum, but not on using computers and forums.
I have obviously one acer 1810tz, but the Italian version (with su4100, I've seen that US version includes also a su7300 version).

I have two main question:
1) I really want to underclock/undervolt my su4100, but if I have correctly searched in this topic, there's noway except the hardware one.
I know how this works and I want to change fsb and multiplier in a dynamic way. it's a 200x6 (6,5 maximum). It is totally useless.
I would like to do something like 150x4 minimum and 250x6,5 maximum. I know that is possible (everything's possible) but I don't know how.

2) I want to see something on monitor when I use the "FN" buttons. I don't see anything (but kubuntu yes)


and last but not least, I am looking for a way to have a more solid display frame (it bends too easily and I don't want to see it get cracked!!)

PS: sorry for my "Maccheroni" english.

 

Hi,

thanks for the interesting data! May I ask how you measured the power usage? I assume you are referring to D.C. usage?

 

Yes, I use the BattStat program that shows instant battery consumption.

Could be great if someone more can redo the test. It is simple, run battstat wait several seconds to stabilize the power consumption, turn on the BT and see the difference.

 

lite2 and others who've swapped your HDD's - the HDD swap doesn't look straight-forward. It looks like there is a ZIFF (??) connection cable crossing over the HDD and I don't see how to remove the drive even if the cable is disconnected... Please be gentle with me - I am a senior citizen ...

 

Hi,

Could you explain which screws you had to remove? Maybe some pictures?

Thanks and regards

Tim

 

On my 1410 it was easy and tool less(except removing cover). In order: remove HD access cover, disconnect narrow end of ziff cable by popping up clip evenly(I used a finger nail on each side), release cable from socket, pull out HD(just friction fit, no screws), the ribbon cable was attached to a black shield which was attached to the drive(sticky tape like backing) so starting at the narrow end that you disconnected lift the ribbon and black plastic shield as one piece(being careful with the other end), once ribbon is released from HD body unplug from DH. Reverse to install making sure that the ribbon is seated and locked into the ziff socket.
Hope that makes sense

 

I'm thinking of replacing my multilingual keyboard in my black Gateway EC18 with a white US one from a 751h. I'm not sure if this will look weird or if the white keyboards show dirt and grime more. Does anyone have any opinions or even pictures of white keyboards in black laptops?

 

hi all again.

i have to say that my stupid problem with my "can't see anything when changing volume" was simply caused because I forgot a driver... I don't remember what

however I'm doing some tests.

the computer "all-off" is about 4.5 - 5.0 Watt (everything off, monitor brightness at min)
I've also noticed that the wifi (when inactive, not browsing) is almost comsumeless.
Using wifi is also energy efficient... about 5.5-6.0 Watt

The monitor is really powerful. about 2.0-2.5 Watt only from minimimum to maximum brightness

So I've seen that if your computer isn't doing anything... 12h
browsing at home during night is also loooooooong... about 9-10h (you keep brightness at low levels)

I've seen that a 1080p is about 3h autonomy.


Could anyone confirm those infos?

I'm running SU4100 (EU -> IT version) with 1x2gb ddr2 667 (waiting for additional 1x2gb 800)...


I've also one question... did anyone mounted a different hard drive on this lovely notebook?
Did anyone (more interesting for me) placed a SSD (i was looking for x-25m but I don't know if I can place them)?


Bye... and good night... 3 AM here in italy

 

lite2 - Thanks for the info! I guess I was (foolishly) expecting to find a couple of screws holding the HDD. I pulled the factory drive and imaged it onto an older 120-gig drive that I had sitting around. I was a little nervous when I put the 120 drive back into it since a piece of tape came loose on the ziff cable near the end - but it works like a charm. Thanks again ...

 

The Belkin F8N140 is a little too small for my 1810tz, I can only close it with force. Perhaps it will fit after a while...

 

Acer Aspire 1410-722G25n (celeron 723) have one Samsung 2GB M4 70T5663QZ3-CE6

flashing to 70T5663QZ3-CF7 is fine, 800Mhz is working

Also looks like overclock is enebled by default, but i did not manage to OC it, looks like HDD is going mad as soon i press set fsb (even if nothing get changed)
the clock gen i tried which read info fine (get fsb) is SLG505YC264BT

Also this model use Atheros wifi AR5B93

 

just to confirm, in order for RMclock to work as described in the guide by prikolchik, you have to have it set on the profile "power on demand" ? i think i have been running it for the last month without any power savings because i missed this step :/

also is there any way to force the laptop to start in "power saver" under windows "power plans" in the battery indicator??

thx!

 

Just wanted to say hi and thanx all for all these pages...

Just bought a 1810Timeline with 11.6/SU9400 1.4/4Gb/4500HD/BT/HDMI and am going to be throwing my 64Gb ssd in for now. I just downloaded all the 64 bit drivers from the site and now have a copy of 64 Bit Ultimate to install.

Our systems in Canada do not come with 64Bit...at least this doesn't.

So...wait for its arrival...bios update, iso to usb, drivers, read this thread page by page and we should be off!!~!!

 

I have the olympic SU7300, and mine came with 64 bit windows 7. I haven't bothered to update any of the drivers yet because i've noticed that sometimes the latest drivers aren't all that great.

 

AFAIK you want to keep the "power on demand" profile and set the advanced settings under that heading. That's how I did it on my Gateway LT3100. Oh how I miss the underclock on demand. But the 1410 still gets 2 more hrs, so not all bad

 

I want to install internal bluetooth module but only if I don't have to take the whole computer apart. Can somebody confirm that we don't need to take out the keyboard but only the back cover of the laptop to install bluetooth module? Did anyone else try the method described above? Thanks

 

OMG, you're not kidding.

That one video's got me chasing my own tail, lol. Actually, I got it to play on my 1810TZ (SU4100) using MPC-HC but at a paltry 11~19fps...

But when you consider what it really is, a video file with an average video & audio bandwith of 19Mbps / 448Kbps respectively, it's no wonder... . I've even noted sections in the video hitting upwards of 40Mbps...

I think the main problem is that MPC-HC does not support DXVA with the Intel GPUs. Conversly, WMP 12 does not (seem to) support mkvs... so what to do...?

 

Hi *,
I brought a 1810TZ SU4100 2G ram 32 bit Vista few days ago, and I will got the win7 32 bit upgrade disc from Acer next week.
My question is:
1. Should I buy a extra 2G ram for it? Does it make big difference ?
2. I will get a win7 32bit license key soon, should I install 64bit version? Can I use my 32bit license to activate the 64 bit version?

Thanks~~!

 

I'm selling my Samsung 500GB. the idle noise vibration in the chassis (and top wrist wrest area) is driving me bananas. Scorpio was almost as bad (tried both original and the 320GB in my 4810). I hear Seagate Momentus vibrates more so that's a no-go.

Peeved at the price of a 80-160GB SSD which is sure to solve my problem, but breaks my wallet. I could see $100-200, but $300+ is just insane!

Thinking of finding an overpriced 5K500.B Travelstar as I hear that are lower power so maybe less vibration too, but who knows as HDD manufacturers don't even measure Idle noise.

can never get it right with this lappy... wonder why 1st didn't vibrate so bad. i'm beginning to think it's the laptop more than the HDD as 4810 with same drive doesn't vibrate nearly as much and it used a metal cage with no dampening; this sucker has cushioning!

sigh...

 

1. I don't think so. Ran pretty well with 2GB. Couldn't tell much difference from 4GB that I have now. I would save for a cheap SSD.
2. I had 64-bit win7 and switched back to 32-bit win7. It boots faster, hibernates faster (since its only 3GB of RAM), saves you over 3GB of space plus 1GB of hiberfile, runs firefox and ms office faster.