[Acer Aspire 1410/1810t/1810tz] Timeline Tweaks (2)

Have already undervolted the cpu?
Lowering LCD brightness always works, if you dont use bluetooth/WLAN disable that too. Use 1810tray and have the fan work less frequently.

if you have the newer Intel graphics driver, go into the Intel graphics and media control panel and select power tab. in that tab, there should be an "graphics power plan setting" or something called like that. select battery powered, and enable the power saving technology slider and set it to max battery life. I dont know how this works nor if it even works at all, but it should be there for a reason.

if you have 3GB or more ram, try using RAM disk and set your browser to use RAM disk as your cache drive ( you may need to do extra settings if you want to save the data cache/cookies on your RAM disk at shutdown/hibernation ). Setting TEMP folder to RAM disk can also help (again, if you want to save data on RAM disk at shutdown/hibernation you will may need extra settings )

check resource monitor to see which process is using disk i/o.
you may be able to reduce hdd access by disabling services like auto defrag, index service（Windows Search), etc but each at a price. I'm not too sure which services can be safely disabled and not have a serious hit on performance.

if you dont mind throwing another $250-$300, replacing the HDD with a SSD (64-80GB) will reduce power consumption too.

by undervolting, using 1810tray and replacing with SSD I get about 6-7000mW on idle (out of 1-10, brightness set at 4). I have not yet enabled usage of RAM disk, while Windows7 automatically disables defrag on SSD drives.

 

thanks for the advice, but for these steps I dont need any tutorials; and there is nothing I haven't done yet.

As I posted before, undervolting does not work for me/my cpu. I'm certain that this is the only way to increase my battery life further.

 

Im not shure why undervolting doesnt work...maybe they disabled it in recent cpus? What does CrystalCPUID's "Intel Enhanced Speedstep Control" show? You should be able to check what volts are enabled on your cpu ( dont mind the values shown on CrystalCPUID, they are higher than the real values ). if min=max, then you may have to go the hard-ware way, via solder.

I dont know what you have done and at the moment i cant think of anything else that might help, sry

 

In regards to your undervolting problem, you have to go back to the main profile page and select the voltage from there.

 

Personally i wouldn't rely on BatteryBar too much...

It seems you have already tried pretty much everything, but maybe you left these out:

- in 1810tray also set video card to minimum usage, and do this in the GPU settings as well.
- configure 1810tray to switch off your webcam when you want to save battery
- switch Bluetooth and WiFi off whenever not needed
- set your display to low brightness. If you want to improve your visuals, change the Gamma/Constrast/Brightness of your GPU setteing's colour managerment instead
- in Win7 Power Options, for your Power Saving Plan, choose 'Change Plan Settings', 'Change Advanced Power Settings', ; Processor Power Management', and make sure it's 0% for both minimum and maximum.

The last point i found last, and if you don't fix it your CPU may incidentally run at full throttle even in Power saving mode.

Your values at idle look fine, to improve battery life i guess you have to bring the values under load down.

 

I've made a few screens from intels enhanced speedstep control, see below.

at least its more accurate than win 7's battery icon

already done

done, some other hardware, such as mic (is always on) has already been disabled

already done

already done

I'll try that, but because of not really knowing what this point in power savings meant, I never touched it

// as you can see in the crystal cpuid screen, my cpu is always running at 1200mHz, instead of the full 1300. it seems to me that this is a normal thing, but I couldn't get my cpu to run at full 1300, even at intensive tasks /// my mistake, in the screen, cpu is running at ~1300

 

so, making a screenshot of the CPU speed affects the CPU speed

if you were in power saving mode when making that screenshot, the last tweak should help you a bit

 

yayaya, now it is @1197mHz - without the last tweak.

 

i think crystalcpuID is your problem. It shows 1300 all the time, try to use cpuZ or rmclock...even 1810tray shows 800 Mhz...I think it doenst get the speedstep thing...cause multiplier and FSB are shown as stock..
---
I used CPUZ and crystalcpu in parallel now and it is like I said...crystalcpu doesn't get it...I think your 3810 runs just fine and you're chasing a ghost produced through ccpu...
Battery bar shows 7.8 W as I'm typing..so there is no fault with either 1810tray or cpuZ
----
second edit:
If you use the speedstep control thing through ccpu (i tried with 0.825V and 8.0x) the cpu will run at 1300 mhz (multiplier 6.5) all the time...until you plug the AC power again...so don't use it..

I got the best battery use with leaving all the settings as they are, little tuning via the win7 energy profile and the settings from 1810tray...I used rmclock but it ate more power than it saved...don't use to much of the little unknown software-whatsoever-things...

 

1.013v on crystalcpuid = 0.900v CPU-Z (real value)
which means you should be able to lower operation volts.

use the Multiplier Management Settings (found under File). it will enable you to change FID/VID at your preferred settings. if you want more battery life, set the up threshold/ down threshold so that it goes less into 6.5x and goes back to 6.0x faster. also, set VID so that it uses less volts at each setting. Just be sure that the cpu can run at the low volts. and dont forget to enable it by pressing F3 (or clicking Function -> Multiplier Management)

Same thing can be done with RMClock. Use the one you feel more comfortable with.

 

the 6.xx multiplier consumes more power than an 8.00...
and the rmclock power on demand thing has no good effect on the overall consumption...it uses 5% of CPU...
only use 1810tray and windows energy

 

yep, ccpuid doesn't display the correct values, it even says that my cpu is an wolfdale...

so with cpuz, current voltage is on 0.9v, without having anything set up or changed. battery life is now on 5h 20m max.

 

Really? I just started using RMclock to undervolt my SU2300 from 1.0v to 0.9v. Should I just get rid of the program?

 

I am not sure if I agree with this suggestion. If you are just after the longest possible battery life then I guess it has value but then if you do not care about the performance of the laptop then there are other laptops/netbooks out there that can run for longer but at the expense of speed.
However having minimum speed set to 0% and maximum set to 100% means that the laptop will slow down and save power when it can but still has the ability to speed up when you need it to.

Of course at least with the SU4100 in my 1810TZ speedstep cannot slow the CPU down much anyway but I still like to know it can speed up if it needs to and get the job finished so it can slow down again.

 

i dont know which configuration u use exactly...but for my su7300 the internal speedstep works way better without rmclock...no audio glitch with winamp (rmclock cant adjust the speed fast enough -> audioglitch), lower consumption (with batterbar 7.00 to 7.3 W as I'm typing this post in sr ware iron - try to use iron instead of firefox)...rmclock did only recognize the 6x multiplier...with 0.9V...and it only use this, and doesnt allow the cpu to use lower modes...this is worse than 8.x @ 0.875...the 5% cpu use through rmclock takes an extra piece of the energy cake...try to keep an eye on battery bar with and with out rmclock...

 

The only thing that I set up RMclock for was the undervolting... I never messed with the CPU speed and whatnot.

 

I guess the point of CULVs is that they can be either fast or have an exceptionally long battery life, depending on the user's preferences. This will be even more extreme with the upcoming, overclockeable processors. It's just a bit strange that the 'Battery Saving' mode by default is not fully optimized for long battery life.

 

As I said - try to keep an eye on batterbar with and without rmclock...maybe for a few days...maybe you have to think of some scenarios...(browser idle, browser youtube, winamp audio stream etc.) If you dont have this hardware-undervolting mod, rmclock has no effect on lowest Voltage(at least on my 7300...CPU Z says 1V for you without rmclock?)...the lowest voltage (without hardwaremod) can be relatively certain used with 1810tray or even no undervolt programm...on the SU 7300 rmclock averts the CPU using lowest voltage (0.9V instead of 0.875V, dont how it works with the other SUs)...I think the additional 5 to 10% CPU usage isn'T worth it

 

finally, I'm getting around 5-6000mW on idle and 5h 33m max battery life - with wifi enabled. pretty satisfying

 

Could you summarize the last set of changes you made that got you to this level? I think I have all the standard power-saving mods in place but my 1410 never shows more than 3.5 hours of battery life. Either I'm missing something important or half my battery is dead or unused

 

yea i am only getting about 3.5h with RM clock on performance on demand, set up according to the guides. and worst of all battery bar is saying i have 4.9% battery wear. i dont see how that is. before that happened i was getting like 4.5h so that kinda sucks

edit:
just finished up my DIY Magnetic Power Adapter, so maybe i should put a link here to the thread:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=458287

 

- disabled unnecessary hardware (webcam, mic, ethernet adapter, hdmi)
- 0.9v cpu vid with 1810tray / cpuz proof
- disabled services, deinstalled some windos features (~33 tasks)
- power scheme/wifi/graphic accelerator tweaked to max batt life
- display dimmed to what suits best
- 1810tray running, adjusted fan speed
- newest drivers, but som of em are stock windows drivers (audio, ethernet)
- unnecessary autostart progs removed
- processor power management is now 0% to 100%

since the days, battery life in battery bar is increasing: now on 5h 42m, will report if it reaches higher values

 

if you wake up from either standby or hibernation it is not possible to get the same low consumption the notebook has after a fresh windows-start...
edit:
me again...the last 5.2 percent which are shown as battery wear are no battery wear...you will see when trying to completely drain the battery on using the notebook...batterybar will hang at 5.2% for double the time it actually takes to drain "real" 5.2% of battery (could be that windows battery also does hang around at 20 to 30 minutes till the first 5.2% are drained and it may wake up again when the "non-existing 5.2% battery wear" gonna be used)...so you can put an additional half an hour to your 5.45h

 

Hi! I've been looking but couldn't find anywhere the answer to why the 4500mhd on the GS45 doesn't go to 533mhz like it was supose to?


thanks!

 

here's the explanation to the "supose to"
http://www.anandtech.com/printarticle.aspx?i=3380

 

Votex-- thanks for this list! I had done most of these things, but I did find that my processor power management setting wasn't quite right. I changed that and I also found a couple of autostart items to disable. Initial indications are that battery life is improving, but it's too soon for me to be confident that I'll get to 5+ hours. We'll see.

Do you happen to remember which windows features and which services you disabled? Perhaps that's another area I can pursue on my system.

Also, which anti-virus are you running? I'm running AVG (free version)-- does anyone know if AVG puts a greater than average drain on the system?

I'm puzzled that BatteryBar says that my battery wear is 0%. On the surface, I suppose that's good, but is it realistic? My system has been in use for a bit more than 3 months (not heavy, every day use-- light to moderate use a few days per week). I've done several full re-charges and quite a few re-charges from about the 20% level. Is this "0% wear" reasonable or is it indicative of some sort of problem? Should I be following a different protocol for re-charging the battery?

 

> - disabled services, deinstalled some windos features (~33 tasks)
> - unnecessary autostart progs removed

I'd like some specific suggestions from votex and others about what processes to disable/remove.

I've owned lots of computers, but this is my first Acer and I am astounded at the huge number of processes (that I am not familiar with) that are running.

Suggestions please.

 

I formatted my acer, mainly to get rid of the stock installed software. so autostart programs that I removed with my freshly installed win 7 ultimate a just intels stuff (intel common user interface) and adobe service, because I have installed the master collection.

I'll make you a list of which services I've disabled, otherwise blackvipers service homepage will help you, too: www.BlackViper.com

another tip for faster bootup with dualcore acers: msconfig -> boot tab -> advanced options -> set number of processors to 2

// I'm using kaspersky anti-virus 2010

 

if you do a fresh install of Win7 on the Acer, can you re-use the product key on the underside of the netbook?

Also, what's the optimal fan setting for 1810tray?

 

I dont think so, because this key is for windows 7 home premium. afaik, the key defines which version you can install, when you got a new windows 7 x86/x64 dvd.

the settings below are working for me like a charm.

 

Well that's what I meant. As long as I stick with Windows 7 Home Premium x64, can I re-use the product key?

Also, your version of 1810tray looks different than mine, but I still found the settings. The only thing different from mine is that yours is set to hold the CPU temp at 58C, mine was originally at 52C. That sounds considerably hotter. The netbook just hit 55C and the underside is pretty darn hot. Do you think I should put Arctic Silver 5 on the CPU, or will that void my warranty? Are there any ways to improve cooling? I'm coming from a desktop with a modded Scythe Infinity that would keep the CPU at 28C lol. 55C reminds me of the Intel Presshott days.

 

yep, as long as you stay with the same windows version, it does not matter if you install x84 or x64.

I changed that because sometimes, at intensiv tasks, the fan spins up. since I use watercooling on my desktop rig, you can call me a silence enthusiast - so my acer has to be quiet most of the time, too.

don't worry about the temps. everything under 60° is no problem. my acer barely hits the 56/57° mark.

 

Hi I am new to the forum. I recently received a 1410 w/SU2300. It is running the 3115 BIOS. Can someone tell me if it makes sense for me to upgrade the BIOS to 3303? Is there some way to learn what the differences are in each BIOS? I have looked on the forum and the Acer website but couldn't locate the information. Thank you for your help. Chuck

 

Hey Chuck,

When I got my 1410 SU2300, I immediately updated the BIOS to the latest. It doesn't hurt to update it, and in the newer BIOS's Acer adds VT support.

 

Jeff

Can I upgrade directly to the latest BIOS or do Ihave to apply them in the order they were released? Thanks

 

direct upgrade.

'cause the newest bios always includes the ones before.

 

Thanks Votex. I will give it a try.

 

See this extensive Clean Install thread.
"This guide explains how to do a clean installation of Windows 7 on Acer computer without the need of having a proper OEM key or Acer Upgrade Kit.
The described method will work for ANY edition (Starter/Home/Pro/Ultimate) and for ANY architecture (32/64-bit) and ANY language."

 

Awesome, just what I needed. Thanks. Although I find it strange that you don't even have to use the product key on the underside of the netbook, lol.

 

Can I use that guide to install the Ultimate edition even if my laptop came with home premium?

 

No you cannot. You have you stick with whatever edition your netbook came with. I think you can freely interchange between x86 and x64, though.

 

Yes you can actually. I've done it. My 1810t OE came with Win7 Home Premium. I did the clean OEM install of Win7 Ultimate with instructions given in that dedicated thread for doing clean installs.

 

So basically what did you do... Did you select ultimate edition? Or did you select HP and after you chose ultimate keys...

 

i installed the w7 ultimate and used the OEM key for the W7Ultimate version. I just made sure to uncheck "activate online" before I clicked next.

Then when it was installed, i did all the steps in the command prompt to change the certificate using the same key installed it with.

 

Yes, thx

 

concur with the_lpt: the acer's slp key works on ultimate (that's the beauty of buying branded unit)

 

is there a difference between downloading a torrent of a cracked windows 7 ultimate and following the clean install guide and installing ultimate instead of the version which came with your 1810T?

 

I have been looking into putting a SSD drive in my 1410 that has a SU2300 in it. My question is this, Is there a point of diminishing returns where I can get a drive that is 'faster' than the CPU and memory of this machine can efficiently/effectively use.

I am aware of the other things concerning SSD's like TRIM and GARBAGE COLLECTION. I am mainly interested in if I can get so much speed in one of these drives that the rest of the parameters of the machine is a bottleneck from the SSD being used to its fullest extent. Thanks

 

maybe the difference is that you're installing win 7 ultimate instead of win 7 home premium.

I'm certain that nothing will bottleneck your ssd, because the bandwith of the gs45 express chipset and its ICH9 with the high-bandwith interfaces (s-ata, pci-e) is far enough.

 

So....basically you are asking people to admit that they are using a cracked version of WIN 7 or give you advise on using a cracked version of Win 7 on a public forum? Am I understanding this correctly? Hmmmm.............