Not sure whats going on but my wireless has been giving me some issues on the 1410. I would be able to surf for like 15-20mins, then my wireless would act up and I can't access anything online (AIM disconnect, can't open any pages, can't access my wireless router). I thought it was my router at first, so I took out my iPod Touch and it had no problems accessing the net. My only solution for now is to disconnect and reconnect the wireless adapter but that's a nuisance. Any suggestions?
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Go to "network connection status"then "properties" then "configure" then ''power managment" and UNCHECK the box "allow the computer to turn off the device to save power".If that fails change the channel in your wireless router.Set it to whatever you want other than the one that it is right now.From 12 to 8 for example.
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Thanks!
Power Management was already disabled, I'm trying to switch channels on the router now. But here's something interesting, when my wireless supposedly "dies" (I can't open any webpages, ie. google), my AIM works fine, same with the stuff i was downloading on my browser. I thought maybe it was firefox but I jumped on chrome and I still couldn't access any sites, but I was able to use AIM. Its weird since the problem occurred a few days ago, and there hasn't been any changes to my wireless settings or router.
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This would be an indication for some problem on the software side. Could also be some so-called "security" software that's freaking out.
In case you have some 3rd party firewall software installed, get rid of it and use Windows built-in firewall instead for troubleshooting.
You may try to create another user account for testing (type: restricted) and see if there is the same problem.
Michael -
Hi there
I'm a new 1810T owner.. I literally just opened the box an hour ago, haha. This was supposed to be my highschool grad present (SU9400 olympic version).
Anyywayyy.
While doing the initial boot (the one thats supposed to take 10-20 minutes), the computer crash/got the blue screen of death after 3 minutes or so- right when I denied the McAffee trial. :/ It restarted itself and kept doing the blue screen for 3 or 4 times until we moved into Windows Safe Mode.
Dad is on the Acer website and getting drivers to restore Windows 7 and whatnot... He said it would be fine once he'd done that. My dad is good little nerdologist
especially when it comes to computers, but I'm just here to ask you guys if what he's doing is right/will help it work/keep it from crashing/make it perfect etc, and whether or not that messes with the warranty, which Acer is apparently very picky with. (I'm almost expecting a 'well if you saw Blue Screen and didn't come straight to us well your fault VOID WARRANTY' kind of thing if this doesn't work out).
Anyway, any opinions and suggestions? -
I would say you might have a faulty unit but first off use the recovery process to put the vanilla image back on to the laptop and start the process again.
Here is the standard Acer Recovery Instructions
1. Power on the machine
2. At the white ACER BIOS screen, hold the “Alt” key and press the “F10” key simultaneously to start Acer eRecovery
3. Once eRecovery has loaded, click “Restore to Factory Default Settings”
4. Click “OK” to continue
5. From here, the eRecovery process will update all the data on the C: drive and restore a fully functional factory image (approximately 10 minutes).
6. Once eRecovery has run, press “OK” to reboot unit -
actually i have no time to find it thru whole topic...
can you please tell me model ID of the battery from 1810? I have 1410 now, and plan to buy bigger battery from 1810, but don't know its model id -
I have the exact same problem, but in my case it seems to be caused by a weak signal. This only happens in my room, and everywhere else it seems to work fine. The strange thing is that my wireless signal goes from 3 bars to disconnect, while my iPod is going strong at full signal ):
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Try changing the channel in your wireless router.It works most of the times.Especially in cases like yours, where your room due to location or construction doesn't communicate well with the router.
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Just tried that, so far no disconnects (comparing to the frequent DCing before)
Seems to work, thanks
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Turn off Wireless N support. If you have devices, such as xbox/ps3..it can kill your internet.
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Hi,
Could you please give some more details?
Michael -
Xbox or ps3 don't have wireless N, they have wireless G. If you use them in the house, they will disrupt your connection and cause outage if you are using a wireless N router. You can easily fix this by going into your laptop adapter settings, and disable wireless N.
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Ah, ok. Thanks.
I guess, similar happens if there are other "less-than-N" devices in the network. Or are these consoles known for rogue WLAN controllers?
Michael -
As far as I know using G and N devices with a N-router though-put drops down to the capability of the G device. So the bottle neck are the G devices. I don’t know about the consoles.
Malte -
There are some newer N routers that won't drop the entire network down because one G device is logged on. N devices get N service. There is a special name for it, but off hand I don't recall.
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Heads up. Acer 752 SU2300 version for sale at Walmarts in canada (in store) for $350 Can. Only drawback is that it has a 3 cell battery.
Bronsky
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Do you mean 752?
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LOL I keep doing that (last week I was calling it the 751) - thanks I fixed it.
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It's hard enough to keep track of the existing 11.6" offerings and then we have you running around making up new ones!
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If that becomes available at my local Wal-Mart, I just may buy it!
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Depending on the specs, it might be worth looking into. Add a 5600mHa battery and you're in business.
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Hi everybody. I find interesting that my 1810tz Olympic (1810tz-414g50n) came with a 6-cell 63W/5800mAh battery (instead of the more common 62W/5600mAh variety).
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You are one of the lucky ones.It's not uncommon for Acer to contract out batteries,chargers,screens e.t.c so it's normal for some deviations to exist.
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HEADS UP!
If anyone is interested in the SU3500 1410 you might want to check out the deal Circuit City/Comp USA/Tiger Direct. They have the Gateway EC1803 on sale for $350. It has Vista and the Windows 7 upgrade has expired which is too bad because the OEM Vista install really drags the 1410 down. (Not a problem if you have access to Windows 7 or plan on using Linux.) Obviously this is only a great deal as long as you don't have to pay to upgrade the OS or don't mind removing all of the crapware that comes on it from the factory. (I've heard Vista runs well if you clean it up.) If you were going to buy Windows 7, then you may as well just buy a new model with Win 7 on it.
I'm so happy with my SU3500 1410, I decided to order the EC1803 for my wife and sell off the Dell Vostro. (I know she really likes my Acer, but I'm always using it.
) Since I never use Windows, I'll let her have my copy of 64-bit Windows 7. My 1410 runs great on both Ubuntu and Windows 7
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hi,
anyone know whether 1810tz have 2x1gb or 1 x 2gb of ram?
Thanks -
ok just checked with cpuz. 1x2gb ram
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The 1810tz should come with either 3 or 4 GB RAM. So it will either have 1x2GB + 1x1GB or 2x2GB. Most 1410 models ship with 2x1GB though the first batch of SU3500 models came with 1x2GB.
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In some areas(Europe for one)the 1810TZ comes mainly with 2GB RAM.
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Anyone know if an external blu ray drive will work with the 1810t? How is the performance?
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Just got the Gateway EC1803u. It's nice. I think I like the way it's looks a little better than than the Acer. The only issue so far is that it has flex in the keyboard which should be easy to fix with double sided tape. (Now I know why everyone was complaining if they got one with keyboard flex. It's not right!) I updated the BIOS using the latest from Acer, dropped in a 2MB stick of RAM to bump it to 3MB and Installed Windows 7 on it for my wife. (Used my Acer CDs since I never used them on my 1410. Same OEM key applies.
) All in all, a great deal for $350.
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Jayayess1190 Waiting on Intel Cannonlake
This Asu-s looks almost like the Blu-Ray version of their dvd drive which I have. -
Cancel Changes:confused2:
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Very smart purchase,enjoy it...Definitely a great buy for people that have access to win7.Hey it's cheaper than some netbooks.I also like gateway's looks better than the 1410...Just one question:Is the screen quality comparable to the 1410.I 've heard some complains in the past about these screens.
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If you must have Windows 7, you can get this 13.3" Acer 3810 with (basically) the same specs for $430. Not a bad deal.
As far as the screen goes, I can't tell any difference except you can lower the brightness Gateway much lower than on my Acer. BUT... I am using Ubuntu on the Acer and Windows 7 on the Gateway, so I can't really say there is any difference. I do know that Acer has a BIOS that addresses the flicker on the LG screens. I'm guessing I don't have an LG screen because I've never noticed the flicker. -
Anyone bought from a battery from this vendor?
5200mAH BATTERY
Would like to get another hour of life out of my AS1410
Edit:
Went ahead and ordered it. -
Let us know how it goes; I'm also interested in an extra one.
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http://forum.notebookreview.com/ace...810-timeline-11-6-thread-131.html#post6283945
I've got some news about overclocking the stock 2GB Samsung M4 70T5663EH3-CE6 ram. I've successfully booted it with DDR2-800 400MHz but now with timings 5-5-5-4. So far lower timings either doesn't boot on my laptop or the chipset chooses high timings like 9T.
For those who havn't learned it yet the number of "Ticks" is a multiple of the cycle time (tCLK) which IS your speed in a different notation (400MHz = 2.5ns/cycle). So the RAM state delays are presented as the number of cycles that must pass to equal the required delay time. The delay time in ns is fixed and dependant on the model of black DRAM chips. It's like expressing a car's speed by the tire RPMs. Below I listed my succesful timings at DDR2-800 400MHz 2.5ns/cycle (tCLK)
!TIP!: When testing for faster and faster timings always reprogram|reflash one RAM module at a time and reboot|test the one module at a time. This way if a timing setting fails you can insert a slower speed module into the other avail DIMM slot and be able to boot up, reflash|reprogram the module set too fast back to a setting that works by itself. Then try some other values that might work.
For those who don't know, those 4 timings are the most important because they have the greatest effect on performance. The CL state|transactions alone account for 50% of the transaction in RAM. I havn't started working on tweaking the other timings yet but when I tried setting CL to 4T|10ns the laptop wouldn't boot (delay set too small) until I inserted a slower module into the other DIMM slot alongside the original badly set DIMM and bootup. Also programming it for data rates higher than DDR2-800 like DDR2-1066 has no benefit on this Acer 1410 and maybe for any GS45 chipset as this chipset only uses DDR2 at 400MHz max. You need DDR3 memory to use the higher rates because according to Lavalys Everest this Acer 1410 only supports memory speeds of DDR2-667 SDRAM, DDR2-800 SDRAM, DDR3-667 SDRAM, DDR3-800 SDRAM, DDR3-1066 SDRAM.Code:CL|Colum Access Strobe (CAS) Latency= 5T|12.5ns tRCD|Row Access Strobe(RAS) to CAS Delay= 5T|12.5ns tRP|Row Precharche= 5T|12.5ns tRAS|Row Access Strobe delay= 4T|10ns http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/productInfo.do?fmly_id=699&partnum=M470T5663EH3&xFmly_id= http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/productInfo.do?fmly_id=696&partnum=K4T1G084QE&xFmly_id=
If anyone knows where to get DDR3 DRAM memory on a 200pin DDR2 SO-DIMM module|PCB please post it as it would greatly improve performance on these laptops. It should exist as I have EDO memory DRAM chips on a 168pin DIMM and normally EDO is only placed on 72pin SIMMs.
On an unrelated topic those of you having trouble with WiFi G interrupting N band then look for a router/access point that supports dual mode. D-Links had a dynamic mode that allowed Super G or Turbo G to work with regular G and B bands. Look for a mode like that, chances are you have to turn off boosting functions and be limited to 54-108mbps on N band. -
The chipset supports DDR3, the 1410/1810 does not.
I doubt these modules exist - modern memory modules can't be compared to the stuff that was available 15 years ago.
Michael -
@michael: I know that the chipset supports DDR2 & DDR3 but the physical slots are DDR2 only, I already knew. As for DDR3 DRAM on a DDR2 module is easy to make. We're talking about just a different pin out. All RAM modules are just a bridge/daughter board. The PCB is RAIDing DRAM chips already that's why we get banks and ranks and different DRAM organizations per module. All that's required is the chipset able to handle the different DRAM types and in the case of GS45 chipset they all can. Power can always be changed at the PCB/daughter board level like they do currently.
just to be annoying lol my 1410-8803 came with Ruby Red chasis, SU3500, 250GB, and 3GB DDR2-667, here in Montreal, QC, Canada.
According to anandtech 1W=20-30mins of battery life in most cases. This also could be compacted by a hypothesis I have made in a previous post of mine: 2xDIMMs = Dual Channel = Double the transactions per RAM interaction. Twice the work should consume more power.
Lavalys Everest shows that the GS45 chipset can handle 8GB of ram however it doesn't specify if there is tech type limits as in 4GB DDR2 max & 8GB DDR 3 max, keep that in mind.
Thread name: "Acer Aspire 1410 and 1810 Timeline 11.6" Thread" seems anything about those units is appropriate here. I think your complaint is in error
if you don't like the emails just change your subscription type to no email. My reply to the previous user's quote can apply to you too.
I was thinking similar about browser blockage but still internet activity. Web browsing is done on port 80 so if port 80 is getting blocked it might be a sign of malware getting into your system, firewall incorrectly configured or having a false positive for malware, network traffic collisions, Denial of Service network attacks?
to all of you I'm quoting about network trouble, try different channels, adjust the radio power of your wifi inside your laptop aka transmit power, check wireless power down timer and power saving level, then test if location is obstructing signal quality. My suggestions are not in any preferred order. -
Since I got my AS1410-2936 6 months ago, I have had issues with wifi.
I have to be pretty close to the wifi access point for my AS1410 to be able to connect.
I've done driver updates, made sure it's set to maximum performance in power settings.
Nothing seems to work. I contacted Acer support about it, but they are sending me in circles.
I recently did some tests, I have a Samsung n130 netbook and my smart phone. I went to a few wifi access points and was able to get signals for both devices at over 50 yards away. But this AS1410 can barely work at 15-20 feet.
Anyone else have the same exprience with the AS1410 line? Is the built in Intel wifi link 1000 card a terrible piece of equipment?
Thanks for the input. -
My 1410T Wifi works perfectly and picks up signals very well and has a decent range, well beyond 15'. It sounds like there is something wrong with your module.
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Quite the opposite.Intel wifi 1000 and 5100 cards have well above average performance.A good functioning wifi 1000 card should easily outperform the wifi card in your Samsung.Maybe you should test it with a different router.Just to eliminate that the problem is not in your router....Also I would reconfiqure(reinstall) the router from scratch.If you have an instalation CD for the router I would do it that way and not manually.Also i would try different channels in my router.
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The short range is the case with every wifi access point I come across. I do a lot of business travel and the results are always the same.
Acer's response, after several explanations on my part, was this:
I have to figure out how to get this up to a higher tech that knows something.
I've been to 3 different hotels in the last week and the issue is the same at each. I was able to test with my smart phone's wifi and the other netbook to confirm it. I wonder if it's an issue with the wifi module not being seated right?
If it's cheaper and less hassle for me to just purchase another wifi module, I'd rather do that than deal with these idiots at Acer support. -
Sounds like the card is working but not at full strength. Make sure your antenna is properly connected.
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What a bunch of morons! Pissoff a customer over a $15 dollar part and 15 minutes on a repair bench. It sounds like they are saying that the module is "not capable" of having a defect that would shorten its range.
Bronsky
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The way you describe it it seems certain that the problem is with the wifi module.I have an Intel 1000 card and its performance is more than excellent.So I suggest you check also the antenna(like Ohiomoto suggests) and if everything fails,and you have the tecnical skills, buy a new one and instal it(it's pretty cheap).I don't blame you for not wanting to deal with Acer service.
Amazon.com: Intel WiFi Link 1000 - Network adapter - PCI Express Mini Card - 802.11b, 802.11g, 802.11n (draft 2.0): Electronics -
There is no market for such modules (DDR3 chips on DDR2 PCB). No manufacturer will spend a cent for developping these, so you need to solder them yourself.
The different amount of pins also serves as protection against potential damage. There are too many systems that could handle DDR2 only. (But you know that already.)
Michael -
@michael: I meant the pinout on the PCB-DRAM side not the DIMM slot-PCB side. PCBs are just daughter boards to adapt for the varying power & voltage requires for each different DRAM model. Otherwise we'd be putting DRAM directly onto motherboard sockets like BIOS PLCC chips. There would be no damage having correctly made DDR3 DRAM chips applied to DDR2 PCB (PC2-xxxx PCB). All that is required is a chipset that supports DDR3 DRAM.
just posting an update about my results, I ran the Vista/Win7 boot up memory diagnostic; 2 passes of enhanced mode took at least 4hrs but no problems. I still have faster timings to test. Click the quote source button for some tips and you can view the link to see my previous efforts regarding this. -
And why is there no such thing like a 200pin DDR3 module?
Because there is no market for that. DDR2 modules have DDR2 chips on a 200 pin PCB, DDR3 modules reside on a 204 pin PCB. These are the standards that are defined, and these insure that you can't install DDR2 on a system that needs DDR3 or vice versa.
If you want, ask Kingston, OCZ, Samsung, Micron or some other module manufacturer for some custom DDR3 modules that fit into your system.
Michael
Acer Aspire 1410 and 1810 Timeline 11.6" Thread
Discussion in 'Acer' started by ohiomoto, Oct 9, 2009.