Acer Aspire 5930(G) owner thread

lemmor: that might be due to many reasons. Two most probable ones are overheating and virus/spyware/malware related ones.

 

so if thats the case, i have to update my anti virus..i noticed that my 5930g really heats up when playing recent games, eventhough i use a cooler , it goes to 90. i read in this thread that you can lower the temp of 5930g, but i cant understand how to do it.. any good suggestion guys? do i have to use software to lower the temp? what are the precautions?

 

First off, if your temperatures are going all the way up to 90 degrees, it's quite possible your laptop accumulated a lot of dust and it needs to be cleaned up.

You can do that through 3 ways (more or less).
1. Turn off the laptop, and press a vacuum cleaner tube at the air vents (holding it at each air vent for about 5 seconds).
The Air vents are essentially holes in the laptop used for air circulation.

2. Turn off the laptop, unscrew the larger lower panel, then unscrew the fan and move it to the side (but do not disconnect it's wires from the motherboard).
Clean out the fan, along with the area between the cpu and the air-vent (which is where most of the dust accumulates).

3. (This option is the easiest one along with the first one) Buy a compressed air in a can.
Turn off the laptop. Force some of the air from the can in order to get rid of potential water droplets.
Next press the tip of the can (where the air blows) to one of the air vents (the cpu one on the back should be adequate) and push that air in.
It should force out the dust.

Once you are done, turn back on your laptop and enjoy.

If you suspect a virus/spyware/malware ... well, I suggest that for the anti-virus you use one of the following:
Avira, Avast5, or Microsoft Security Essentials.
Only use 1 antivirus in your OS.

All 3 are free, have high detection rates, and practically non-existent impact on the system (although Avast 5 has apparently the lowest impact, it isn't really noticeable with computers like ours).

Install and update the antivirus and run a quick scan.

Also, in conjuncture with the antivirus, I suggest you download, install and update Malwarebytes.

Run a quick scan with it after you are done with the antivirus scan.

Generally speaking, running a quick scan for both of these programs is usually enough to detect any threats.
If you find that you are having trouble removing an infection from the system, simply re-run the quick scans in Safe Mode (though make sure both programs are fully updated).

 

Yeah, man, Deks couldn't be more straightforward and gave you very detailed step-by-step instructions. However I didn't need compressed air just unscrewed the cover underneath your laptop and four radiator screws and gave it a good hoovering and 'blow'. I can bet you have a lot of dust in the small gap between the radiator and air vent.

As for good malware remover Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware works for me like a charm (better than Spybot or Ad-aware).

 

this is a great help for me.. but i dont have any vacuum so i will remove the dirt manually. i will download malwarebytes and run a scan.

this thread is very helpful.
thanks for the knowledgeable response.

 

sir, what is throttle stop? does it lower gpu temp? sir deks, did you flash your bios to undervolt your gpu temp? if so, how did you do it sir rayyan gave a link but i think its only for flashing the core, memory and shader..

 

Sorry guys, been really busy lately

While temps above 90 are usually do to dust build up, as Deks said this is only one reason.
With clean vents my temps would reach mid-80s playing demanding games, on stock so with overclock it might hit 90.

There are two other things that Deks and I have done other than ensuring that our vents are clean to reduce temps.

1-Undervolting the CPU. This reduces excess the voltage going to the laptop's CPU and hence lowers temps.
This does NOT affect temps in anyway, and is totally safe. The worst thing that can happen is a BSOD.

The most common program used to undervolt the CPU is RMClock
This is an excellent guide to using RMClock and tells you everything you need.

Hope it helps

Well Mannu, I actually found the tip here on the forum.
What you need to do is press "win" + R and type regedit in the box, as you need to make the changes in the registry
Go to:
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\RightMark\RMClock

Right Click on PStatesData, and click edit
Here you will see a number of values, choose the value that is 08 in the top row and change to nine

Basically what this does it tell the PC that after the 7x multiplier the next one is 9x
Since we don't have a 9x multiplier, this forces RMClock to run the CPU at the max multiplier (8.5x)

This should help you out

2- Undervolting the GPU.

This is the second thing we have done to reduce temps. To apply this undervolt, you must flash your Graphics card with the BIOS you edited, so it is riskier than undervolting the CPU because a bad flash can brick your card and leave it useless so be careful. This is said in the guide I posted before

If you read my post fully, you'd see that I explained what to do where that guide mentions overclocking.

You see?
Where it says to overclock in that guide, you simply click the Voltages icon in Nibitor, and change the only voltage not at 0.89V to a value of your choice.
Me and Deks are running at 0.89V
See the image below if you still don't understand



I agree with everything Deks said in his last post except for how to clean the laptop.
You should NEVER EVER use a vacuum to clean out a laptop, because the static electricity that it produces can seriously damage components in your pc.

The best way to get dust out is to open the laptop, then remove the fan (2 screws hold it) this shows you the heatsink.
Clean this out with a can on compressed air, then clean out the fan itself with compressed air. This ensures that you get rid of all dust, and there is no danger of damage due to static.
Also, there is no need to unplug the fan when cleaning the heatsink. Simply move it aside carefully, and place it back when you are done.

There were some posts on battery life, I want to say that after a year and and a half, my battery shows 22% wear according to BatteryBar, and on balanced the battery lasts 1.5/2hrs watching a movie with WiFi off. It was ~ 2hrs with WiFI when I first bought it. Maybe your battery is showing incorrect wear. To re-calibrate it, charge it fully, then use it until the battery fully dies and then re-charge fully before using again and chack the wear.

Finally, , for those asking where to find the DoX drivers, they are found here:

All his drivers are in installer form, meaning you simply download them and install, and it all installs normally.

I am currently using DoX 185.85 (Click here to Get)

The best way to install drivers is the clean install method using driver sweeper.
This post is already too long so I will post a guide on how to do that tommorow

Hope this post helps all you new members of the owner's lounge

 

thanks sir rayyan.. one picture explain it all. sorry if i dont understand some words what you have said in your last post..sometimes, i have a hard time understanding english coz im not a native english speaker and thank you for reposting, it helps a lot

by the way, cleaning the fan really reduces gpu temp, ive done it yesterday. my temp never goes 90 and it stops lagging (no overclocking). i used brush to clean the vents and i literally blow off the dust from the vents. didnt use compress air can because i havent got one. ill buy this weekend.

thank you again for your help guys.

 

Keep the compressed air can for future cleaning.
Right now, you were able to reduce the temps by manual cleaning, and that's important.

I recommend cleaning up the computer once every 6 months.

 

No problem lemmor, glad the pic helped you out

Compressed can is good because it reaches the dust that brushes and blowing can't reach, but a brush and blowing gets a lot of dust out too

I clean out my vents every month, since I live in a desert and leaving my laptop out all the time clogs my vents really quickly.

 

sir rayyan, sir deks, have you tried the new driver from laptopvideo2go? you both flash your bios to underclock or you only use rmclock? i will try to use rmclock to see if that lower my temp..

 

by the way, whats the purpose of updating the bios? my laptop's running well so i think i updating bios is not important for now. what really matters is that i ended the sudden lags in games by cleaning the vents.

 

As far as the gpu goes, I kept using Dox's modified drivers 185.85.
I AM looking for newer drivers that are equal if not better than the aforementioned ones though.

I flashed my gpu's bios in order to UNDERVOLT (not underclock) it to 0.89V.

The purpose of RMClock is to undervolt the cpu (it can also be used to underclock it and reduce it's temps, but that's not the point. The point is to find the lowest stable voltage your cpu runs at it's maximum speed).
Since RMClock has issues recognizing half-multipliers, I kept using CrystalCPUID (a bit limited at times, but enough for me).

The purpose of updating the motherboard's bios can vary.
In our case, the 5930G usually comes with 3GB RAM.
If one desires to upgrade that to say 4GB, then updating the BIOS is essential, because otherwise, the system will not be able to use it all in a x64 OS (it will detect it all, but not be able to use it).

Furthermore, new BIOS versions can introduce support for newer hardware.
Say for example that our PM45 chipsets turn out to be QuadCore compatible after all (they're not because the sockets pin layout is slightly different than what the refreshed PM45 chipsets received, but hypothetically, let's say they are) ... if Acer releases a new BIOS that supports QuadCore Cpu's, we'd be able to upgrade to those.

It's just an example on how new BIOS revisions can introduce support for better hardware.

Bottom line is that our laptops are (unfortunately) incapable of housing a QuadCore cpu's.

 

Yup, what Deks said

BTW Deks I'm on 64-bit Vista, and task manager shows physical memory as 4GB, so I don't think I need to update my BIOS, even though its v1.1

 

RaYYaN

If it shows the physical memory as 4Gb, then no, I don't think you need to update your BIOS.

It's possible I had an older BIOS revision than 1.1 ... or something in between 1.1. and 1.23 which prevented my x64 Vista (at the time) to use all 4GB despite the fact it detected it.
Oh well, it doesn't matter since it works NOW.

 

Yeah maybe so

I just checked and CPU-Z reports that my BIOS is v1.15
Maybe you had V1 or V1.1

I remember after I formatted to 64-bit, I was about to update as you had said, but since task manager showed physical memory as 4Gb I kept it

Does anything else change with V1.23 of the BIOS?

 

Not that I've noticed really.
I merely got the system to use all 4Gb in x64 OS.
Then again, I was fiddling (at the time) with the boot options in Windows, so it's possible that once I undid my set the memory check to 4GB I got the physical RAM to show full 4Gb.

Then again, it's possible that simply some 5930G's came with the inability to use 4GB under x64 with the old BIOS, while others did.
I don't know.

There is no changelog for the 1.23 BIOS (which is irritating), so I don't know what kind of changes or hardware support it introduced (beyond the possible RAM limitation).

 

is there anyway that i can use all 4g in win 7 x86 os? i read that only x64 os can only use 4g ram.

 

No, its not possible
x86/x32 bit operating systems were designed such that they can only use up to 3GB of RAM
Only 64-bit operating systems can use all 4GB

If you want to use all 4gb, I recommend you re-install a 64-bit version of the same OS you currently use, as I did with mine.

I used my OEM key and activated it with Vista 64-bit

 

by the way, heres the pics when i cleaned my laptop





from where the dirt builds up




the dirt

 

is there any guide to undervolt the CPU using CrystalCPUID? because RMClock doesn't recognize my P7350 as well and i don't wanna the underclock side effect Deks talked about ... thanks

 

There is no specific guide per see.
I had to fiddle with CrystalCPUID on my own.

In any event, it's not really difficult.
Medo_sd, since you have the same cpu like me, perhaps you will be able to bring down the maximum multiplier to 1.013V.
In any event it's worth a shot.

That should bring the temps down by around 10 degrees C.

My maximum temps under heavy load on both gpu/cpu does not really go over 70 - 72 degrees C.
With the Zalman Cooler active though, the temps are by another 10 degrees lower.


right, so, open up crystalCPUID.
Go to File, and then Multiplier Management setting

Under Multiplier (FID).
You have a maximum, medium and minimum.
Click on Enable Voltage.

Set the Maximum to 1.013
Medium to 1.025
Minimum to 1.000

Click Apply, then OK, and finally press F3 at the main screen to activate the voltage settings.
And that's about it.

You can run ORTHOS (the Blend test) for about 10 to 30 mins to check if the voltages are stable.
If you see no BSOD-ing, then you're good to go.

 

0.89 was the voltage for the graphics card using nibitor

For CPU, I can only go to 0.95 V stable
I'm not sure how to lower it further

 

I found a guide where shows with detail how to UV using RMClock, but also shows how to UV with other alternatives like CrystalCPUID, Notebook Hardware Control (only x34 bits) or directly by the BIOS.
Here's the link:
http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/guides/12900-guide-undervolting-your-processor.html

 

There is a way to overcome this side effect and run you processor at the max multiplier in RMClock, even if you have a half multiplier.
I did it before and it worked fine

I posted it on the last page, quoted here:

Pics when I first opened my laptop:







That dust was stuck to my heatsink

 

RaYYaN i tried to change the 08 value to 09 in the PStatesData as you indicated and when i rebooted it gives me the BSOD and i have to change the value again at 08 by entring in safe mode.
I've changed the correct value?


Or what can be the porblem?
---
Thanks

 

That should be what you should change.

Maybe the voltage is too low?

Do you have Win7, maybe there is something in that causing problems?

 

thanks guys for the help

 

Did you try the RMClock tip 3amo?
did it work?

 

no i went with the crystalCPUID one .... sounded easier

 

True

I tried it but it doesn't let me lower my voltages by the same amount, it crashes for some reason

 

RaYYaN i'm using Win7 x64 and these are my stable voltages:
x6 - 0.9375v
x7 - 0.9500v
x8 - 0.9625v
What can be the problem?¿

And these are my results by UV the CPU & GPU at 0.89v at 625/900/1550:
Game: COD MW2 about 2 and a half hours at 1200x800 no AA:
Temps:
CPU: Core 0 - 64º Core 1 - 66º
GPU: 76º
I'll try wiht someting more heavy like GTA4 or Crysis when i have some free space in the HDD

BTW does anyone have the Acer Crystal Eye HD soft for rec in 720p?

 

Hey. Could anyone take an image of the Recovery disc that you can burn out with eRecovery? I want to reset the computer, but i cant find mine. Or could someone just take out the drivers inside please? The Vista part isn't necessary only the drivers please.

Thanks

 

Bro just download the drivers from acer's site.

http://support.acer-euro.com/drivers/notebook/as_5930.html

 

I've already tried that.

http://data.fuskbugg.se/skalman01/-----------photo.jpg

thats how my screen looks right now, stuck on 1024x768 and not working untill windows boots up

 

That's ... interesting.

It might be a screen issue, video cable problem, gpu driver or the gpu itself.

When did this start happening exactly?

Have you done any modifications to your laptop or installed something before this problem occurred?

Also ... as far as gpu drivers are concerned, the ones on Acer website are too old.
Either use official Nvidia drivers, or get the DOX's 185.85 drivers.

 

I've tried with all the drivers there is. I havent modified the laptop and there is no warranty left.

I tried to install VMWARE and emulate Mac OSX and when it didnt boot up i tried to restart my computer. When i restarted it the screen didnt lit up and i had to open and close it to get it functional.

I reinstalled Windows 7 several times and even tried with Vista which i am on now.

The GPU works fine since i can play on the computer and use external screens.

 

Oh.
So you tested the gpu via external screens and everything was fine?

then what you could try doing is to open up the plastic casing where the power button is located (right on top of the keyboard) - it comes off easily with a bit of a push.
Next, locate the video cable on the left side and jiggle it around a bit.

Close the lid and re-open it (perhaps a few times).

If this doesn't work, then it's possible the problem lies with the LCD screen (or still the video cable).
You will probably have to take the laptop to a repair centre that deals with this issue.
You can show them the problem and see how much would they charge you with repairs.

 

Just tried that. Even put some pressure on it and nothing happend.

How much do you think it would cost?

 

The cost is relative.
It depends on the repair centre really.
You can try to find online local repair centres, give them a call, describe the issue and see how much they charge for their services.
Depends on where you live for the most part.

Alternatively, if you are still under warranty, you might consider sending the laptop to Acer for repairs.
If you decide to do that however, my advice would be to write a paper detailing the problem and saying it is a HARDWARE issue and not a software one (seeing how you tested it for confirmation) and then arrange to send the laptop in for repairs.

Make sure to write up stuff that you will hold them accountable if any damage comes to the laptop.

This is a hardware issue and not a software one seeing how the image is stable on external monitors (I saw a similar issue on a laptop of a sisters friend ... basically told her to take it to a repair centre and state its a hardware issue and not a software one seeing how repair centres love to con people at times and charging money if they end up suspecting even the problem might be software in nature (even if its not).

 

Well... To be honest im not sure if it's hardware related. Im going to try to write down a timeline on what happens when i turn on my computer.


1. I press the powerbutton, everything turns on perfectly except for the screen.
2. The screen is black and does not show the acer bootscreen or the "windows is loading" screen.
3. The "Windows start-up" sound plays.
4. Still nothing on the screen, to get the login screen too show up i have to open and close the lid.
5. I open and close the lid. Link to how it looks like = http://data.fuskbugg.se/skalman01/-IMG_5041.JPG
6. Everything works except for window which doesnt recognize my screen. In windows 7 its says "generic non-pnp screen". Sometimes adjusting the brightness is impossible until i open and close the lid. When i open and close it i can sometimes hear the sound which plays when you connect a new device to windows. Its like windows is not finding the screen. Is there any screendrivers?


I would love trying to reset the computer. Could you extract all the drivers included in your back-up disc? Or make an image of it and upload it somewhere?

Thank you

Here are some pictures i've taken:

http://data.fuskbugg.se/skalman01/-----------lolololol.jpg
http://data.fuskbugg.se/skalman01/-IMG_5041.JPG

 

There is a high possibility the problem is Hardware based, not Software based.

You tried connecting the external monitor to the laptop and the image was fine there.

You also mentioned how there is NO image on the laptop's screen while booting up, and something shows up only when Windows start.
This suggests further the problem is rooted in hardware.

I cannot make a backup because I removed the original Acer backup image, and it wouldn't do you any good.
You would still end up with the same problem.

But if you think the software is truly at fault, then get a Windows Vista DVD (with your edition) off the net (free and legal downloads are available), burn and make a fresh install of everything.

That should clear up any issues you might think are caused by Software (but I can tell you right now, the chances of this being a software problem are extremely low).

 

Then it is hardware related after all. I have tried with reinstalled windows 5 times now, shifting between 7 and Vista.

Can i try changing the screen by myself?

 

So basically, you already tried doing a clean install and ended up with the same result.

That should have given you enough warning from the get go.

I recommend you stick with 7. It's newer, better optimized and more responsive (at least in my opinion).

As for changing the screen yourself ...
Remember that the issue could be either in the video cable, the components of the LCD screen, or the screen itself as a whole.

Without knowing what's causing this issue, you will be no closer to repairing it.
So even if you try replacing the screen yourself, you still might end up with the same problem because the cause could be in the cable for example.

In any event, getting this problem properly diagnosed in a repair centre of some kind would be the way to go ... or you send it to Acer if it's under warranty.

 

Thank you for your help. I have found the problem now. My screen doesnt have any EDID anymore. Could you do me a favour? Since you have the same screen as i do, could you please extract your edid, save it, upload it and send it to me? I would be very thankful.

Thank you once again.

http://www.tucows.com/preview/329441

Once you've started the Phoenix EDID Designer, please press "extract EDID" and then choose the internal screen. Then press the save button and upload the file you save to a site where i can download it. There will be no personal info in that file only information about your screen which is the same for everyone.

Thank you

 

I FIXED IT!

It was the EDID thing. Now it works but windows does still not find the screen and it shows nothing on boot. Well. It works in windows so im happy :d

 

Glad you were able to fix it (at least partly so you have the image in Windows).

I extracted the EDID btw, so if you still need it, let me know your email address on PM and I'll email it to you.

 

hi sirs, i tried to underclock voltage through bios using nibitor but after booting from flashdrive and typing nvflash myucfiles.rom and hit enter, there is an error....

"warning: cannot open swap file c:\cwsdpml.swp
nvidia firmware update utility (version 5.88)
checking for matches between display adapter(s) and image(s)...
adapter: geforce 9600gt (10DE,0649,1025,013F) H:--:NRM B:01,PCI,D: 00,
F:00

warning: firmware image PCI subsystem id (10DE,0567)
does not match adapter PCI subsystem id (1025, 013F).

error: PCI subsystem id mismatch "

what seems to be the problem?

 

I think you need to input a different command to flash the gpu bios.
I seem to recall a similar issue on my own laptop and had to input numbers and whatnot.
Just cannot remember detailed instructions.

Try scouring laptopvideo2go for the instructions.