Acer Aspire 7750g Owner's Thread

I use this laptop as a desktop replacement since it is so big. I only use wired and bluetooth mouse. Have a mini usb bluetooth dongle.

I hate touchpads. Only use it in safe mode when I have to.

 

Hello guys! New here but I've seen some pretty solid tips from doing research on my laptop's persisting problems.

Here's what I have:
Acer Aspire 7750G-6444.
Intel i5 Core 2.3 GHz, Turbo Boost up to 2.9GHz.
AMD Radeon HD 6650M, 1 GB VRAM.
4 GB DDR3 RAM.

Here's the problem:
I've sent this laptop in three times now due to an issue that (thankfully) has yet to recur just yet. It's been spontaneously rebooting on me after about 3 hours of gameplay.

First time: motherboard replacement.
Second time: scanned the RAM, found it had loads of errors, RAM replacement.
Third time: they claimed there were no problems and that it was some third-party software I was using. (Right...)

Upon receiving it after the third time reformatted, I reformatted it again and reinstalled Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit, the version that came with the laptop to begin with. Reinstalled drivers, upgraded drivers to the latest versions (12.8), and for awhile it seemed like everything was running smoothly. The fan was steadily spinning as I played games, keeping the laptop cool, and I was able to play several games beyond the breakpoint of 3 hours by at least an hour twice or thrice.

I decided to try running a game again just now, and it's back to doing what it was before. The fan won't spin and push heat out of the system until some seemingly arbitrary temp, while overall the system is running hot and the fan vents out disturbingly hot air. I'm not sure what to do beyond maybe opening the case and dusting it out, but as mentioned, the fan was working just the other day, making me very confused as to what's going on. Any help whatsoever would be appreciated, as Acer's support hasn't been very effective at all at assisting me with my troubles.

 

If you're thinking it's heat, the first thing I would do is monitor it with HWMonitor and try to reproduce it while paying attention to temps.

 

I've done that. It's definitely heat and the fans inconsistently working, I'm pretty sure.

 

Hey guys, i just got my hands on a 7750G with i3 2310 and 7670m and i was testing this video (timescapes 1440p)wich is 2560x1440 resolution and on the 7670 the frame rates drops considerately and on the integrated bord the videos runs great...i just want to let you guys know in case u want to desable for good the integrated bord. f
Sorry for my english.
PS.
i'm olso looking for a way to overclock the proc.

 

What temps are you seeing when you have problems with it? How computer savvy are you? I can give you a ton of things to try

 

I have 10 Years of experience in IT.. olso i work at a company which haves 150+ Computers and Servers...and i'm the IT administrator of it....

LE: The temps are ok...45-51 °

 

Didn't mean to offend, was talking to the guy above you who has been having some problems with his laptop. I should have quoted him when I replied

 

It`s Ok m8 , so the integrated board(wich is located in the proc) is working better on HD movies.

 

Hello,

I bought Acer Aspire 7750g too, few months ago and I have one problem. My configuration is i5 2450m 2,5ghz, 6gb DDR3, AMD Radeon HD 7670M and 750GB HDD.
I bought original cage and back cover for second HDD and installed Samsung SSD 128Gb.
I made fresh install on SSD (Windows 7 64bit), which is now primary disk and formated old 750Gb, which is now used for data (no system).
All works fine, except one thing - when I run laptop on battery is second disk - HDD always spinning and starting - every minute or two, when I'm browsing on internet, search for files etc...
Example 1 - I open just windows explorer then I open some folder on HDD and I hear HDD starting - bzzz, explorer freezes for few seconds and after spinning it is folder open.
example 2 - I have win7 and Chrome on SSD - I open new tab in Chrome, HDD bzzz starts again and after few seconds new tab is opened.
If laptop is plugged in electricity HDD is quiet, isn't starting and nothing lags.

I think HDD isn't getting enough power on battery.
I tried many solutions:
- upgrade BIOS to last version
- upgrade chipset drivers
- completely format HDD and make new partition
- disable turn off HDD after X minutes in win7
- tried all power plans - Usually I have set to max. performance. Tried power saver, LCD brightness on minimal - HDD keeps starting.
- tried to change HDD and SSD in laptop - SSD on first SATA instead original HDD, and HDD on second place and HDD on first and SSD on second...no effect.
- checked smart status of SSD and HDD with different programs - all OK.
- disable all startup and tray programs, open just windows explorer or total cmd and clicking in folders..

Does anybody have idea?

 

That is a "feature" of the drive, it has power management built in. You can turn it off by using crystal disk info, turn off APM. You can also try updating the firmware but that probably won't make a difference

 

hello guys. been a long time since i've posted in here regarding updating to the modded bios. got that done and works fine months ago. now i am curious and want to overclock the gpu just to see how much of a performance boost in games i can get. in games like wow and d3 i get some lag and low framerate, consistantly only 10 frames in d3 and about 20 frames in wow, i don't know if its server side or some other issue or what, but i also have played torchlight, orcs must die and some other games and they run smoothly and flawlessly altho i didn't look to see what frames i was at. so i'm wondering if overclocking my gpu might assist in the low framerates in wow and d3. here's what i got:

Acer Apire 7750G-6662 (modded Insyde bios)
Intel Core i5-2430M
4GB RAM
AMD Radeon HD 6650M (Leshcat drivers)

i've never overclocked a gpu before so i'm trying hard not to fuq up. i have downloaded trixx and furmark. what is the smart and safe way to do this? what are the safe maximums i can set it to and if anyone who has the same setup as me and overclocked the gpu, was it worth it or just a tiny boost? because if the boost is insignificant, i won't even bother with oc and jus deal with the low frames in wow and d3; i dont want to break my notebook-its been working great thus far. if i've read right, i think popeye has the exact same laptop as me and has it oc. you said you oc yours at 650/850? did you leave fan to auto?

 

I don't have the same card as you, I have a 7750G with a 6850M, but I routinely use a 16% overclock on CS:GO and it makes a fairly significant difference for me.

Stock clocks are like 675/800 on mine and I have them set at 800/950 with no problems, heat is a complete non-issue for me but you're still going to want to test yours, and you won't be able to get as high as mine because you have lower base clocks. Your best bet is to search the forums for a thread about your card

 

Hello guys ,

I am 7750g but i want to get a refund for this laptop since hd 7670m doesnt work. Modded drivers (unstable) from Leshcat dont satisfy me. So i need your help - how should i uninstall those drivers and unflash (reflash ?) bios to make it "stock" again ?

Cheers.

 

ehancock thank you!
It is really APM fault. Now I need solution, to turn APM off forever. Disabling with crystal disk info or hdparm ( Tool to turn off Advanced Power Management Feature for non-USB hard dr - GBAtemp.net) works until reboot. HDparm has switch -K 1 to save settings, but it doesn't work:
hdparm -K 1 hda

hda:
setting drive keep features to 1 (on)
HDIO_DRIVE_CMD(keepsettings) failed: Input/output error


I tried run WD update, drive was updated but no difference.
Registry change for additional power settings in windows 7 doesn't help - AHCI Link Power Management - Enable HIPM and DIPM - Windows 7 Forums

 

I'm pretty sure crystal disk allows you to set it for startup and restore last settings. Either that or you could try creating a windows scheduled task on startup to start it.

 

ehancock, you still using the i7 on your laptop? If so, do you think the update was worth it? How easy was it to change the cpu? I'm thinking about upgrading the cpu on mine too since I do a lot of studio work, run DAWs, VSTs etc. and was wondering if its worth the effort. My 7750G is the same as yours, 6850m + i5-2430m.

 

I ended up having to downgrade back to the i5 for power reasons. The i7+6850m requires a 120w adapter and I didn't have one for testing. I was able to get the laptop to work with turbo disabled but I saw almost no gain in performance whole gaming. I took it out and sold it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

 

I have an i3 3210m and i have tryed to switch to i5 3210m but the board dose not boot up , what cpu`s are working on this board?

 

3210m is Ivy bridge cpu (3xxx). Motherboard in 7750G support only Sandy Bridge cpu (2xxx).

Intel Core i5 3210M Notebook Processor - Notebookcheck.net Tech

 

I have a 7750g with an i7 2630qm, a radeon hd 6650 with 2 gb vram, and 6 gb ram. I have the modded bios, muxed fixed settings enabled, and the 12.10 leshcat drivers. I have my power settings on high performance, went into the advanced power settings and made sure the video cards were on high performance.

My problem is that I get dropped frames and screen tearing doing everyday stuff like scrolling pages and moving around windows. Also playing games, such as Skyrim, even after lowering all the settings to the lower end there is still tearing and dropped frames. Even in older games like Half life 2 there is screen tearing. Also, I went to this site and the simple "response time test ghosting" animation thing stutters like crazy. Is my machine really too slow to handle this stuff? Why did my 2011 13" Macbook pro with much lower specs and only the intel hd graphics run smoother? Does anyone else experience this or know what causes it? My knowledge of computers is pretty limited but I'm thinking its either the cheap motherboard, the cheap monitor, the cheap acer firmware or whatever, or the fact that the radeon's memory is ddr3 rather than gddr5. Any ideas or fixes? Thanks.

 

Are your clocks stuck on low 100/150?

 

How do I check and change that?

 

Use GPU-Z to check clocks. Make sure to get MSI Afterburner version 2.2.1 as I haven't gotten newer versions to work.

P.S. If you are using Leshcat drivers he has an option to enable OverDrive when you first extract the package. You still have to install MSI Afterburner first.

 

In GPU-Z the gpu core clock is switching between 300-600MHz. Would the lower end be causing frame dropping and the higher tearing? It seems like its always one of the two when working in windows. Sometimes after closing a game the screen starts tearing, especially close to the top of the screen. Will I be able to make the MHz value fixed with overclocking? Also, switching to power saving mode, then back to performance mode in the configure switchable graphics program completely fixes the tearing problem, raises the fps considerably and almost gets rid of the dropped frames when scrolling in the browser and moving around windows. So what is causing the GPU to switch gears like this?


I installed Afterburner 2.2.1. I enabled overdrive with the leshcat extract package, and rebooted after it asked me to. How would I know it worked? Sorry, I've never done any overclocking before.

I tried doing this:

When I go to save it in Notepad++, it says "please check if file is open in another program", and in notepad it says access denied. I tried rebooting and it still didn't work. And of course afterburner and ccc are closed.

Also, my fn+arrow keys don't adjust the brightness anymore after I installed the leshcat drivers.. any fixes for that? Thanks!

 

Can 7750G take the AUO B173HW01 V.4 screen ? Are there other screens of same quality that the 7750G can take ?


edit : it appears that the Hannstar HSD173PUW1 which is compatible with Acer 7750G (is it?) is the stock screen of Asus G73, which is compatible also with AUO B173HW01 V.4. ( http://forum.notebookreview.com/asus-gaming-notebook-forum/554002-auo-b173hw01-v-4-g73.html ) Am i correct to conclude that the AUO B173HW01 V.4 can fit the Acer 7750G ?

Anyone replaced their screen ? even with the Hannstar HSD173PUW1 ?

 

- The 7750G (2414G50Mnkk) takes Sata3 or Sata2 drives?
- The one i found is with 4GB ram. Are those 7750Gs coming with two or four dimms?

- What should i know and check on a 7750G ? I read things like that the Radeon is locked in half speed and / or is not the primary display ? What is the modded ("unlocked?") bios for and why would i need it?

 

I have 7750G Travelmate with one 1x4GB module ram. Because my system have IGP disabled from manufacturer, have not problems with graphics 6650M.

 

Great. Thank you for the response. Are the Radeons in notebooks work in two speeds like in desktops? half speed on basic tasks and full speed upon 3D applications ?

And your help please 7750G owners please who messed with the screen : I am planing to replace it with the AUO B173HW01 V.4 and i asked from the seller if they can also send me any necessary wiring possibly needed for the installation and they came up with this reply :

My 7750G-2414G50Mnkk hasn't arrived yet, maybe its going to take a while, until then do we know maybe to what connector the seller refer to ? Do you know where is it ? (need to remove the bezel and / or screen to find that?)

Thanks

 

Anyone know maybe ?

 

LCD connector should be the same and you will be able to use the current wires to connect a new LCD screen.

 

Acer Aspire 7750Z | Acer Aspire 7750, 7750G, 7750Z Notebook Service Guide - Page 75 --> page 119, is in this pic that what we are talking about?

Also is the screen LCD or LED ?

 

Yes that's it on page 119.

The answer to you second question is LED although the question is incorrect.
Both are LCD displays one backlit with LED diodes and the other with CCFL.

So it's not a LED display per se - it's a LCD display with LED backlight.

 

hey guys i like moste pple here also want to put an ssd disk in my laptop
however eaven tho i have read trew all 24 pages of this topig i still am not sure if msata is working preoperly....
wat is the reason so many pple are taking laptop apart to make room for an ssd instead of using there msata port
i have noticed my bios shows only hd 1 and hd 0 so that would have to be my normal sata ports id think
will this mean the msata port is not working? or would this just mean you have to put something in it for it to show up
i really hope you guys can help me with this cause i ofc do not want to buy it if im not sure i can use it

 

Last owner lost memory card reader from my 7750G. Do you think guys it is possible mount or buy new one?

Edit picture



Problem is not card reader missing, just plastic cover and rack for memory card.

 

Yes you can find those "dummy" sd cards. Start from ebay.

 

.

Is it possible to just remove (for replacing) the bottom casing of 7750G or the whole laptop has to be taken apart in order to replace the bottom casing ?


.

 

Would it be possible to put a touch screen into the laptop for Windows 8? Also, did anyone actually try replacing the screen with a higher definition one like the one in the OP?

Unfortunately I have a line of 7 dead pixels cutting in a diagonal fashion toward the bottom right of my screen that I just noticed (only had the computer for 4 months), and I wouldn't feel too bad about spending the money on a replacement if I can actually somehow improve upon the original factory settings in the process. And full 1080p on a 17.3 inch screen sounds pretty insane. If I can actually get it in touch and have it be compatible, I'd spend big money on that. Not even sure if touch or even higher def would even be compatible, though.

Also finally got a SSD in this thing. I'm happy with it, but a tad disappointed in the performance difference. With a friend's computer that I upgraded to SSD the difference was much bigger with windows running much more fluidly than it did previously, but I guess you'd notice it more on a slower computer. Definitely expected a bigger difference for the money, although I have yet to do any gaming on it, so I have yet to see. It'll also make file transfers faster, so that will be worth it in the long run, at least. And the boot speed is a lot quicker, I have to admit.

 

I can't really comment on the screen stuff but an ssd in this laptop should be significantly faster than a spinning drive.

Make sure you have ahci turned on, if it's not then you'll probably have to reload windows after you turn it on in the bios. Otherwise it's a PITA

 

Thanks. Actually I did a clean install with the restore disks after a failed flash drive backup. I'm glad I made those. (with the exception of the bloatware, of course) So when I checked the bios it was all good for ahci.

I guess it was just because the computer I had before this one was so slow that I was quite unaccustomed to how well things ran. Like I said, there was a noticeable boot improvement and the OS seems a bit more fluid, but it could just as easily be my imagination. I guess I should have paid more attention ahead of time, haha. It's quite a fast SSD (Adata SX900), so I expected a night and day sort of difference, but I didn't really notice one. That's either a good thing for the platform or a bad thing for SSD technology in general. Lightning fast boot speed, though, and much more fluid multimedia experience. (slide-shows of ultra high res photos, etc.)

And actually, upon further inspection, the line on the screen is more likely a tiny scratch than it is dead pixels. So it may be something to take into consideration that this screen may be susceptible to scratching, as I recall someone else said something about it in the thread.

Also, I apologize if this has been mentioned before, but where have you guys been locating replacement Blu-Ray drives for this thing? I remember it was mentioned in the thread, but I don't recall anyone linking to a drive that would work in the machine. A burner would be best. If someone could link to where to find those mounting brackets again, that'd be really cool too. I think I'll set up the stock drive in the secondary port for more space. (still really impressed this actually has one) Unless there's a performance reason why I shouldn't have a HDD as a secondary to a SSD? I'd prefer using a model someone

Also, I think I'm going to be installing this screen:

https://www.laptopscreen.com/English/screen-part-number/HSD173PUW1/

They've got an installation guide right here:

Laptop screen replacement / How to replace laptop screen [Acer Aspire 7750G-9657] - YouTube

Although I've seen that model going for lower other places. *shrug*

Oh, and thanks for letting us know how the quad core upgrade went. I think I'll give it a shot next year when more games support that sort of technology and the cost is more in line with the actual performance increase. Although I'm concerned that it may actually be slower for general purpose computing than the higher-clocked dual core-- but I'll need to read more into that.

 

*forehead slap* Hey guys... I got myself into a bit of an embarrassing situation when I installed the modified bios.

I ended up disabling switchable graphics. Not the card itself (although I did that too), but also the graphics switching feature itself. I don't remember exactly what the menu option was, but it was under advanced and video options. Now when I reboot my display is completely black, but the computer is still booting to windows.

Could someone please post the exact keystrokes to restore defaults or fix the problem or post pictures of the menus so that I can fix the problem flying blind? I know it's asking for a lot, but I don't recall exactly how things went and I don't want to completely brick my system.

Sorry for being such an idiot. Haha... I'll try not to touch anything from now on... any assistance would be awesome. I just need to know EXACTLY what to do after hitting F2 on boot.

 

Whew! Nevermind! I managed to fix the problem by popping out the laptop battery + mobo battery + RAM and holding down the power button for about 20 seconds per suggestions on the internets. Worked like a charm for restoring the defaults on the modded 1.17 bios. Was pretty concerned there for a while, especially after reading reports of people bricking their machines in the switchable graphics thread. (probably shoulda read that BEFORE messing around in the menus, haha) Sorry for asking for help before exhausting all options and doing proper research. I kinda freaked out.

Anyway, does anyone else have problems with overclocking with Trixx? I can't use MSI at all and when I use Trixx my screen does strange things like flicker and there are horizonal lines that pop up when I open programs. I'm not even overclocking THAT much. Also, the temperatures were running a little high-- this is my first time overclocking a machine in a long while-- should I just turn the fan up? Which settings should I use? For the record I have a 6850m. What's the hottest that should run? What clock speed do you guys recommend setting it at?

EDIT: And sorry for the triple post.

 

For enabling the fan to be allways on, untill shutdown, have a look here, on my acer aspire 7750zg worked.

Now I can play games maximum 65 degrees celsius.

Cheers!

 

Use the ATI 12.4 driver, you should be able to find it on guru3d.com. You will be able to oc without the video glitches.

I OC by like 15% with no issues and temps don't even really hit 70C.

 

Thanks! Well... I've got it overclocking now, but the temperatures are running well over 70 even without overclocking anything. Any thoughts on why this might be, guys? I just run the Arkham Asylum benchmark and when I get out, the temps are running well over 70, sometimes 75 and when I was ocing it was over 80 once.

Am I actually going to need to crack this thing open and reapply thermal paste to my gpu? Should I get a new fan to allow for better ocing?

EDIT: Also, what are you running the GPU and RAM at?

 

You're probably going to need to. Might want to try a cheap cooling pad first. I opened mine to repaste but I never had high gpu temps in the first place. I use a coolermaster cooling pad that's angled and has a big 240mm fan in it. I don't even bother to monitor my temps much anymore because they're always so cool. I hit like 62C today with a 10% OC playing cs source for a few hours. I don't remember specific clocks, I just have shortcuts for 10, 15, and 20% OC set. You can do the math yourself lol. I don't get artifacts at 20% but I do notice throttling probably due to power restraints. I usually run at 15%.

This laptop is one of the more simple ones to disassemble. If you take your time and you're at least somewhat savvy you can do it. It took me about 45min to do both mine and my wife's while I was watching tv.

Edit: with bf3 my temps are higher but that's obviously a more demanding game but even with an OC gpu temps are like 70ish.

 

Yeah I noticed a bit of throttling as well in Arkham Asylum. When I OC, my AVG FPS goes a bit higher (from about 47-48 to 52-54), however my minimum FPS actually drops a bit. (Pre-OC 29/30, post-OC 25/26) Max FPS seems topped out at 60fps for that program, so nothing to report there. Max settings 8x AA, 1600x900.

Not sure why that is. *shrug*

Anyway, I'll try and track down some thermal paste. (I live in a small town, and I think Radio Shack went out of business.... Officemax maybe?) I really wouldn't want to be running this thing around 80C in a laptop-- although I have read some people saying that 80C is hot but usually fine depending on the GPU... I'd prefer it run in the 70-75C range at the hottest. 77 or 78 tops. Good to know that complete disassembly is easy enough. Thanks.

EDIT: And thanks for the cooling pad recommendation. I didn't even know that was a thing.

 

Just changed out the thermal paste and WOW what a big difference.

It didn't make a huge difference under idling temps, but for some reason, my computer runs HOT. Either because that's just how the model is, or because my computer, in particular had a really bad thermal paste job done. (it looked fine when I cracked it open, though) It may have been the dust buildup near the fan, but even that wasn't terribly bad, so I doubt it.

Anyway, I noticed the GPU easily breaking into the 80s during long Skryim sessions WITHOUT overclocking. I caught it running at 86C (!!!!) with just a 10% OC and stopped OCing entirely. But today my Tuniq TX-2 came in the mail and slapped some of it onto my CPU/GPU and it's a night and day difference. I OCed by about 16% for 25 minutes or so, checking the GPU periodically and it seems to top out at about 72C at that setting. I almost couldn't believe my eyes as I had expected a 3 to 4C difference max-- but the difference was way in excess of 10C for me. I can easily feel the difference on the case with my hands. Running Skyrim at 1600x900 at settings between high and ultra. (8x AA, everything on high or better, etc) and getting framerates in the mid to upper twenties, for those of you curious. Perfectly fine for a game like Skyrim, IMO-- and really beautiful. Just wish I had documented my temps better earlier-- but suffice it to say, I've seen this machine running in the mid eighties and I doubt I'll be pushing past 75C even with a 20% OC-- which is a really incredible difference considering I had broken 80C before without any sort of OCing.

So if you're going to OC your machine, repasting is a MUST. Thanks to ehancock for the recommendation. Just be sure to get some of the good stuff like Arctic Silver 5 or Tuniq TX-2. At 7 bucks a tube, there's no reason to be cheap, although you can get even better pastes in the $10-$20 range, but I'd expect the difference to be pretty marginal at these performance levels-- which are WAY above the stock paste. Maybe I'll try out TX-4 if and when I upgrade my CPU. I hear that's supposed to be another 2 or 3C drop on top of the TX-2. I'll believe it when I see it. Anyway, I'll keep you guys up to date on how high temps go with the new paste.

Also, I'm going to have to have to abstain from recommending a cooling pad. I ended up dropping $30 for a 240mm Coolermaster pad, and before I repasted the cpu/gpu it didn't really seem to do much to keep the temperatures at a reasonable level by itself. I guess you can make the argument that it helps, but dollar-for-dollar it's an incredibly poor investment over top-of-the-line thermal paste which will cost $15 or $20 a tube. Or even a cheap paste with a good reputation which will cost less than $10.

Also, scratched the out of my screen with my mobo while repasting. Maybe I should've taken the damn thing out when I repasted, but it seemed like a real , so I didn't. Anyway, expect to hear about that 1080p monitor upgrade soon!

 

Hi, guys!

I own the Acer Aspire 7750G-2678G50Mnkk

- Intel Core i7 2670QM 2.20GHz
- 8192 MB DDR3-RAM
- 500 GB SATA HDD
- 1024 MB AMD Radeon HD 7670M

My problem is that I play games like CS:GO only with the integrated GPU, but I want to play games with the 7670m.
Will lashcat's driver fix my problem or do I need to flash the BIOS?

 

Integrated graphics that's always turned on? That sounds horrible. I'm not certain if the lc driver would fix the problem, as I haven't installed it. (the link for 12.4 was down, so I just use the regular driver)

But flashing the Bios may fix the problem.

Once you flash it go to video options under advanced.

Go into BIOS -> Advanced -> Video Configuration -> Pci Express Graphic -> Always Enable PEG [Enabled]
Go into BIOS -> Advanced -> Video Configuration -> Pci Express Graphic -> PowerXpress Setting [Muxed Fixed Scheme]

I personally don't have an option for PowerXpress Setting under my bios, so sadly I can't disable switchable graphics at the present. Thankfully, I don't really notice any sort of GPU switches going on, so either it works very well, or it's always using the dedicated GPU for whatever reason. But other users have reported this working.

Are you certain you just don't have the proper driver installed? Check Device Manager and see whether you've got the Radeon driver installed under display adapter or if you have some sort of generic driver installed. If you don't have a proper Radeon Driver installed you may need to use system restore or even your restore discs to restore the old driver. I accidentally upgraded to 13.1 and couldn't roll back with standard drivers or system restore, due to an upgrade to a lower capacity ssd. When I manually removed the 6850m and deleted drivers Windows would only recognize the integrated intel GPU and restoring with legacy Ati drivers was impossible, as I couldn't get the system to recognize the card. If you're running some sort of generic driver under device manager then this may be what happened. With system restore I was able to roll back to older LC drivers, but the version I needed wasn't available, so I'd try that first if there was ever a time when your system recognized the card under system restore. If not, I'd try the bios then do a full data backup and system restore with discs if that doesn't work.