Official Acer Aspire 5739G Owner's Lounge

Tunay, I think I know what your problem is, I had the same problem with my graphic card it was freezing like crazy.

try this:
1.Open up Regedit and go to \HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Contr ol\Video\********\0000\

The *'s will be random numbers. There will be a few of them, pick the one with the most stuff in it.

2.Create the 4 Powermizer keys (these will all be DWORD):
PerfLevelSrc
PowerMizerEnable
PowermizerLevel
PowermizerLevelAC

3.Change the values (double click on them) to:
PerfLevelSrc 3322 (I changed to 2222 to completely disable PowerMizer)
PowerMizerEnable 0
PowermizerLevel 1
PowermizerLevelAC 1

4.Reboot and Powermizer will be disabled!

Let me know if it works!!

 

Hey! Thank you so much for the tip!! But, I know this will fix the problem as I really messed a lot with powermizer when I've used my Qosmio. But this will raise my tempratures as well and again heat up the laptop, raise the noice level and decrease the battery performance.. in my case, this laptop will again be unusable, as I use this in a lot in meetings, school etc. And I hate when the fan spins up like crazy. However, rep added for the tip.

 

Like said a doctor in Futurama - "Hi, everybody!"

I`ve registered in this forum because of such knowledge base about Aspire 5739G. Yes, I`m user of this machine too.

Specs of my notebook: C2D T6600 Core frequency 2200Mhz (FSB 800 Mhz), 4GB (2x2) Samsung RAM DDR3 1066 Mhz, GT240M 1Gb, Hitachi 500Gb 5400 RPM .

Nothing is overclocked and BIOS isn`t yet updated. But, in the near future it will be updated because of new processor: I ordered new C2D X9100 and 8 GB (2x 4GB) Crucial RAM DDR3 1066 MHz. Information about compobility and possibility of processors installation I`ve read in this forum and in other sites.

tunay, I saw photos of your 5739g, where on the termal tubes are placed copper plates. Can you tell me please, how you did this modification? I`m sorry, if you`ve already described this modification.

 

Hi propolkin

Welcome to the forum.

I've did nothing out of the ordernary. I've orderd it over ebay, but thermal paste on both sides of the copper plate. That is about it.

I assume you have changed a CPU on a laptop before? If not, I can describe it closer if you want too.

Enjoy your stay here on NBR

 

Hey! Guys what do you prefer instead 5739g?
I looking for an exchange
I want better performance in game.
Prize? My 5739 +max 20% of 5739g prize.
Thx. Tunay do i have to install powermizer? To enable somethink, is there and option if i will install this crap i will be able to run on full perfomance on battery?

 

No, I have not done this before, but I have a very good manual about this laptop, where the processors installation process is very good described. This will be the first time, when I change the CPU on the laptops, but I have skills of modding and repairing desktops. Is there something, that I have to know in addition before replacing the CPU, except updating the BIOS?

 

You can try to disable powermizer, that will force you're GPU clocks at the full at any time.. Maybe this can solve your problem while gaming on battery..

Nothing special to be honest. Make sure to clean your vents. when you have your laptop apart. If you have done a CPU replace on desktop before it is pretty much the same...

 

Hello, I was able to undervolt the cpu up to 1,125 v which gives me much lower operating temperatures (of course the cpu was at 3.0 ghz). Playing Battlefield 3 I reached the 72/75 ° C after 2 hours of play well in medium details with filters pretty high, but yesterday I replaced the thermal paste no-name brand that I used before, with a coolermaster, the temperatures (with standard voltages) declined further, I start to reach a minimum temperature of 15 ° C would say amazing! But I have yet to try this pasta in a situation such as extreme gaming with Battlefield 3, I will give you more news soon

 

Thank you for answer. The last thing, that I want to upgrade, it is video card. I`m thinking about HD6770m. In of posts there was information, that this card has a problems with OpenGL. But, I don`t think, that this issue will make troubles in working with laptop, because, basicaly, I use this machine in the job - AutoCAD, Mathlab, LabVIEW, Engeniring Base and so on. Of course I play games, but only Skyrim and World of Tanks for now.

 

That's what my last setup idled at... But the room temprature and how long the laptop have been running is a real serious factor.

If you're laptop have been off for a day and you turn it on and then read the temptratures it will be lower then ever, but run Prime95 for a hour or something and then let it idle, it will take hours before it will settle at 15C again..

That is up to your use. But GPU is easier then CPU to replace

 

It's physically impossible for the CPU to be cooler than the colling agent (air) so either your room temperature is well below 15*C, which is impossible, or temperature reading is inaccurate.

 

Yep, I saw GPU slot, when I was cleaning laptop inside. But the price of this GPU is just idiotic. In our country my laptop is now cheaper than this GPU. Which thermal paste it would be better to use, when replacing the CPU?

 

Hi downloads,

Actually, you're 100% right with your post. But, what I want to share here is my own experience. I've have seen 15C idle on my CPU (T9900). My room is well over 15C as I live in Norway, and since it is freezing cold outside, my house is always warm at an alarming rate However, I don't know if you had a 5739G but I wonder if it is because the design of the cooling unit. I actually think that at some rate, the luqid insde the headpipe is cooling the CPU it self.. I mean like, at idle, the voltage is much lower then what it is at full speed - we all know that. But, for me, I think it is like the laptop is done transferring the heat to the fan as it is minimal, but the fan is now cooling the CPU (the heatpipe is working the other way around). To be honest, I have no idea how a heatpipe works, in a professional way. But my point is, I have seen the same, the fans shut down at 15C (if I'm not horribly mistaken, if I'm then it is 20C).

Don't get me wrong, I don't want to start a III w.war out of this, but this is also something I've have seen..

You're not alone at that point, my 130M died, and I'm waiting for someone who wants it now.. Selling it, as it is with other words (signature)..

For the thermal paste, I've found the best of the best

Noctua.at - sound-optimised premium components "Designed in Austria"!

I love noctua, but maybe that's just me. I've said that before over another paste and someone posted a link few pages back, maybe worth to look thorugh?

 

There's also another way to prove 15*C is impossible. Heatpipes work by vaporising and condensing liquid- so it vaporizes on the hot end moves to the colder end condenses and the whole thing starts again.

The hot end is supposed to be one touching the CPU and the cold one has a radiator attached to it. If you use a thermometer on the radiator you'll find that it is warmer than 15*C. Which means the heatpipe would work in reverse. If your room temperature was 23*C and CPU was 15* the heatpipe would actually heat up the CPU rather than cool it.

It has to be a fluke- sorry guys. I have an Aspire 6920G that shoes 19*C idle and it use as has is not true.

 

What about the luqid the fan is cooling, constantly?

As I said downloads, I don't know if the readings are accurate but, I don't see a reason why it should be... However...

 

Interesting paste. At the moment I have TITAN thermal paste. When the CPu arrives, I`ll test this paste and the results shall be posted here.

 

Mmm... I found this temperature with trotthle stop when windows start.

 

Nik, were you able to get a stable fsb of 1333mhz?

 

About replacing thermal paste on the CPU - is it necessary to go through the full procedure to remove the motherboard, or can thermal paste be replaced by simply opening the heatsink?

 

Unfortunately does not seem function at 1333 MHz ...

 

CPU thermal sensors care more about load temperatures so they are calibrated to be accurate at high temps rather than low temps.

 

No, you have to remove the whole motherboard. Also, you must clean the old paste. There is diffrent cleaning tools..

Ahhh, have you tried at higher timings?

This woudn't suprize me actually..

 

My X9100 is arrived!

I`ve installed it about 20 minuts ago. Testing it now. Temperatures without load:



While trying to test with load in EVEREST, using System Stability Test Utility, the temperatures of CPU Cores are too high: Core #1 is 100-105 C, Core #2 is 85-95 C. After ~1 minute of testing with load notebook shuts down. With load fan is spining like crazy. Can it be a bad contact of CPU and Thermal plate? Thermal paste layer is very thin, as it should be.

P.S. I`ve updated BIOS to v0.3310 using WinFlash Utility.

 

What fan do you have? Green or Black label?

You can overvolt if you don't plan to overclock.

 

I have stock fan - black one. My old T6600 without load had 30-33 C and with load lower than ~85 C.

How can I overvolt the CPU? Even with updated BIOS there is now options to configure CPU.

What I don`t understand - why the first core is, for example, 85 C, but the second is 55 C? It seems like thermal paste isn`t put regularly. I think it is problem with thermal paste, because I had my own TITAN, wich was very good, as I can remember. But while I was prepairing things to replace the CPU, I have not found my thermal paste - I`ve taken "new" from my neighborhood, that isn`t so fluid, as mine.

 

WOWOWOOO! Forget that post. I mean undervolt, not overvolt. Overvolting will raise your tempratures..

You can try Thorttlestop.

Search The thorttlestop guide on google, it should bring up the guide here on NBR.. Not option in BIOS, sorry.

 

As I can understand, i have to reenter information in throttlestop in every system boot?

 

No, you can save the changes and apply them on boot.

 

First I will try to place litle more thermal paste. If there will be no effect, than I`ll try to use throttlestop.

Added: After placing additional thermal paste the situation is better: now with 100% on CPU the temperatures are less then 87-90% and without load ( only Firefox and Kaspersky launched ) the temperatures are 55-65 C. Yep, there was a problem in thermal paste. Tommorow I`ll buy a new one.

Screen shot of the stability test:



CPU-Z:



And one question: the green labled fan is AIDA, right? Is it much better than the black labled one? And is it louder?

Ahh, and another thing: using windows 7 systems estimation option the Core #1 temperature again rised to 98-102C, but Core #2 72-80 C.

 

Either you have bad sensors which I dubt. The high tempratures are most likely caused by the thermal paste.

There is two diffrent yes, I have tried both my self, and honestly, don't know what to belive now, because all 3 fans I have perform diffrently... Really no idea what's going on..

 

I`ve found this one thermal paste. In our market it is one of the best. And as I remember, some of you, guys, used Arctic Cooling thermal paste.

About fans - I don`t think, that there is much difference between both of them. But, I can not approve something, while I have not tried it yet. I`ll think about buying the green labled fan for the future.

About sensors - version of CPU is OEM. As I understand - sensors are in the CPU, and, if it is OEM version, I don`t think, that there could be a problem with sensors.

 

I personally use this Noctua.at - sound-optimised premium components "Designed in Austria"! it also performans better then Arctic Silver, but have no clue about Arctic Cooling.

There is indeed a diffrence, one of the fans (I do not remember which) does not go 100%. It always goes like 80-100% but newer stays stable. You can hear this pretty clear. But the other one, is noticeably louder. Now, I have to figure out which is which, it is actually somewhere back in this thread, if you don't mind all the pages.

Do not forget that there is always a slim chanse of production error, BUT, I do not think this is in your case.

 

Arctic Cooling it is non-metall thermal paste. In tests it has very good results.

I don`t think too, that it is a production error. Just a bad thermal paste. Can`t understand, where I put my own thermal paste?...

 

Hello, tunaj: I had already tried to raise and lower the timings, but nothing has changed ... however this cpu undervolted it isn't warm, sometimes heats less than my old P8700, for example in idle.
To Propolkin: I'm glad you got the X9100 is a very good cpu, still mine, even with stock voltages did not give me all these problems, certainly was enough to bring it to 3.4 GHz and temperatures rose to 93 ° C (I own the fan with the black label, the SUNON). In any case I think you only need to spread better the thermal paste, because it is not possible that cpu heat so much.
Oh yeah, my fan, the SUNON, almost never seems to 100%, varies continuously (in extreme situations) between 80% and 100%.

 

Thank you! I`ve done replacing of thermal paste three times for now. Bought new thermal paste, temperatures with load dropped to ~90 C. But, after ~5 minutes of load test my notebook shuts down. Again. Okay, I`ll try to replace thermal paste again and put more tiny layer, than I`ve done before. If I get ~85 C in 100% load, it will be comfortable for me.

Which temperatures you have had at stock frequencies?

Added: after another replacing of thermal paste, temperatures at load are 95 C maximum and without load 50-55. Strange. maybe i`m doing something wrong?

Removing battery, than removing the lower cover, after that removing GPU, and, finaly - removing CPU. First I unscrewed the three screws of the CPU heat sink clockwise, than turned the CPU socket lanch counter-clockwise. After that lifted up the CPU arm of the thermal unit approximately 20 degrees. Keeping the heat sink rised I`ve cleaned the thermal paste from heat sink, took CPU, cleaned thermal paste, put the new one. And repeated all the process again, placing CPU and GPU back.

 

O no. You're CPU isin't ment to come out that easliy. I'll have to disassambly the whole laptop to get a good picture and proper spread of the paste. But don't forget that it can also be the chipset. In my case, it wasn't my CPU that caused the laptop to shutdown, it was the chipset.

Try that and let me know the result.

How in the world are you able to clean the old toothpaste Acer is using with that method? Also, do not bend your heatpipe too much as you'll block for the luqid inside... However, try that and let me know.

 

I clean old thermal paste with a little plastic shovel and then clean with cloth and alcohol. But in this time I`ll disassambly the whole laptop to clean it fully.

About CPU - it don`t comes so easily. I have to be very, very careful to lift the CPU and take it out, because there is no place for maneuver.

 

I know, but it is easy way compared to dissasambly of the whole laptop. I've tried that once to see if it did actually work, and it did. But for a proper apply, I personally do not recommend that method.

To be honest - I'm not sure if your problem will be solved by dissasambly of the whole laptop. But it is worth a shot, if it dosn't work, then we'll go over to underclock.

 

I hope I`ll not forget anything to plug back.

 

It is pretty easy to take apart actually. BUT, if you are stuck let me know and I'll do the best to help you out!

 

My GT 130M is in the oven. Let's see if 7 minutes of 195C can bring it back to life.

Do not really belive this will work, but worth a shot eh? I'll let you know the result.

 

I`ve dissabmled notebook. Changed Thermal Paste. Reassambled it back. While I`m trying to boot it, I don`t see anything in display- it is just black, like shuted down. No sines of sistem loading. I can hear, how HDD is spinning, but I don`t see the HDD LED is flashing. The BatterySaving LED is working, as Bluetooth LED is working also. What is going on?

tunay - my friend coocked like that GeForce 7600GS It worked 3 month after that) About taking apart notebook - I agree with you. Now I can tell you, that I am able to take apart whole notebook and manage it to work.

Edited: After ~10 inutes I re-installed a video card, now my notebook is working. Very strange. I`ll proceed checking.

About temperatures. Graphics now ar much more better, than they were. I still have +90C with load, but, it takes much time, than before.





I placed thermal paste on thermal plate like this way: on my thermal plate, that is on the CPU crystall, are retrosections. These retrosections are making some kind of square, on wich perimeter was old thermal paste. I`ve cleaned it and put a new one, filling this square. As you can see on the diagramm, temperatures rises slower than before.

And the last good news: my 8Gb of RAM are in 200km to me.

 

Hey whats up? I'm back again Tunay what about changing the thermal paste using the bend-heatpipe method I think its more save than taking apart the whole laptop. If it isn't accurate use a mirror to see the heatpipe side.
Hi propolkin I'm happy that your laptop works fine. The MXM 2 port is vety sensible just see how many wires are there one bad move and the mobo is broken My 1333MHz isn't stable on my 5739'g.
It's stupid sometimes while changing the FSB using SetFSB the laptop reboots and sometimes it does not and i get instantly the 333 weird
Is there a way to get always when starting the laptop a higher FSB like 300 or is the only way to get throotlestop and lower the multipler (while on FSB 333)??
Thx I'm getting my new thermal compound Zalman STG2 (about 7,6$ for 3,5g got two of them) cause the temperatures goes day for day higher I'm getting sometimes 88oC on the graphics..
Tunay did your GT130M worked after cooking?

 

Yep, I understand that, but my video card was not replaced for the first time by my hands. But wait, about what wires you are talking about? I don`t see any wires, going from video card.

 

propolkin, that's good to hear! Does your laptop still overheat and shut down?

Owner5739G ver.2, yes, the cooking worked, atleasts it seems so. I've YouTubed some and it worked, I then found some driver updates and reinstalled the windows to test on a clean system if the issue were gone. But, after reinstalling my drivers etc. my laptop refused to connected to WiFi, I got pissed and just left it beside the table... Maybe I'll try again tomorrow...

 

On todays morning laptop is working better:

without load - 27-33 C
50-60% load - 55-67C
100% load - 79-89 C (stabilised on 83-89 C). Almous, what I wanted. After 2 weeks I`ll buy new thermal paste, which has better thermal conductivity (8.5 W), than mine (4.5 W). That will give me better temperatures. In additions I`ll add to the thermal plate of the CPU two copper plates for better cooling, hope that mod will helps. As for now - my notebook does not shuts down even after continuous stress test and the fan doesn`t rotating like crazy. Better, than it was yesterday. And today will arrive my 8Gb of RAM, that`s about I`m happy in addition.

 

Hi, now your temperatures I would say that are ok, well now if you want to achieve the best results you do undervolt. Anyway, do you think the thermal plates work, because if so this would be an excellent idea, I'd put them. However my highs temperatures right now are: cpu1 = 82° C cpu2 = 78° C (after 5 minutes).

 

Yes, additional thermal plates will work - temperatures will drop, i think, 3-6 C. Interesting - Core #1 highest temperature is ~84 and Core #2 74. But highest temperature of CPU after 10-15 minutes stress test is ~94 C. And again fan is roatating like crazy. I`m partial satissfied with this result.

About undervolting. It is the last option for me, because I`m thinking about buying the green labled fan and new thermal interfase with better thermal conductivity. When the complitte CPU temperature will be 83-85 C, I`ll be satissfied with results.

In addition: I understand now, that there was no need on buying this processor - it would be better to buy T9900, because it is X9100, but, with 35W and without unlocked multiplier, because I`m not thinking about overclocking CPU and RAM.

Added: In our internet market I`ve found these thermal radiators, that can be sticked on the thermal modules of desktop Video Cards. But, they can be sticked on ours thermal plates - I`ve placed few on the CPU thermal plate. Temperatures dropped on 5-7 C. On full load highest temperature of CPU is now 88 C. I can get lower temperatures, but other radiators don`t stick because of its old "glue". There is possibility of placing this radiators on the thermal tube too, that will drop temperatures stronger.

Added: My 8 Gb 1066 MHz Crucial RAM arrived on the morning and it is already installed in notebook - works perfectly!

 

You know that most of the thermal pasts needs a amount of time to settle. If you do change your thermal paste every week, you'll never be able to reach the max 'performance'.

This is for just some of them out there, this does not apply on for example noctua NT-H1..N

 

I know this fact. But, as I told, whith new thermal paste temperatures are stable.