The Notebook Review forums were hosted by TechTarget, who shut down them down on January 31, 2022. This static read-only archive was pulled by NBR forum users between January 20 and January 31, 2022, in an effort to make sure that the valuable technical information that had been posted on the forums is preserved. For current discussions, many NBR forum users moved over to NotebookTalk.net after the shutdown.
Could You tell me if in normal work mode ( MS OFFISE, Surfing, Youtube) the fans are working, or they are passive, ergo the laptop is noiseles in this condition. Thank you a lot!!
Its good but not perfect. I had a core difference that was slowly becoming worse on 2 Triton 500 units that I tested. because it is fairly difficult to repaste, I decided to ship both back.
The 2060 versions that I had, needed max fans to stay under 90c under load.
A better question would be to ask, how much fan noise, sometiems fans spin up (even in the thicker laptops) but if it is just low fanspeeds, you would barely hear it).
Both the Triton, RB15 are pretty much without noise during normal productivity tasks.
After 2 months my machine went blank. Turning it on the keyboard would light up, go through the usual changes as if the machine was starting, but the screen is just completely blank and I don't think it actually gets past the bios if I let it go; can't remote into it, external boot drive doesn't work, pretty much seems dead beyond the lights.
I've sent it in for repair. I'm hopeful I'll get something back and everything will be great in the future as the machine really was great until this happened. There was no warning signs, either. Only thing that made me nervous was the usual windows 10 updates that I decided to let through; a few minutes after it was completed and on the desktop was the last things I was able to do before it went blank. Wasn't using the GPU, just had a chrome browser open after the short period after update and before it went blank.
Acer are say there is a little pin hole on the left side underneath near one of the screen. if you put a pin in it for a few seconds it reset the laptop. I believe its the equivalent of removing the battery if that was possible.
im being told this will sort it out although not tried it.
Even though ive upgrade to bios 1.06 i had a black screen moment a few days ago whilst playing Farcry 5. it did eventually start correctly having set the bios back to default with the irritating sound when it starts.
I gave it a day before trying it out, including letting it sit around doing nothing. Keyboard would light up, fan would start briefly, then it just sat there doing nothing. Never any network activity or ability to log into it or any signs of anything else going on.
Which program are you using to monitor this? Just curious as I also have a yellow PL2/EDP Other limit reason when utilizing the maximum Turbo Boost of the 2070 in my model. However, it doesn't seem to actually throttle as it's not a red limit, it's a split second yellow trigger that happens only at peak power which is extremely infrequent. Also, undervolting the card via the MSi Afterburner curve seems to fix this. So, I think regardless of AC power adapter you're likely reaching the maximum power draw of the GPU's port with the default power curve/levels that reach up to 1.650v (or close?). I could be wrong of course!
I've used HWMonitor and XTU to record and see the power throttles and can correlate it to severe FPS dips from 100s to the mid 60s for a moment when it jarring and annoying. And I. Currently hitting it with a -120 UV on the CPU need to work on the GPU next.
Are you just using the built in scanner for AB or manually setting the uV?
My method is a mixture of both. I will OC Scanner for a good starting curve, and then run a few benchmarks while watching the maximum clocks and maximum voltage utilized. I'll then pick a voltage to undervolt at based on how the card ran in the benchmarks, and flatten the curve manually from there. It's a bit of guess and check, as you can manipulate the curve a lot.
I found for benchmarks, I could use this method and then bump up each point 10-15 points at a time for small gains. However, this was all without G-Sync enabled. When I enabled G-Sync to actually game, it would occasionally crash. This just proves to me I was really at the limit of my card, unless I repaste it with a superior thermal paste to the NT-H1 I'm on. I still might. I just want stability more than anything, and tweaking the curve literally takes me hours with lots of testing inbetween. All to possibly crash in the end when I actually use the laptop for gaming. So, I have two profiles in Afterburner. One for ultimate benchmarking that's like "beta", and one for stable gaming that I use as my default. Seems to work well.
No worries, sometimes it takes actual use of a model to realize you want something else. There may be a workaround for the power limit you are hitting, but then again maybe not. I do notice the XTU benchmark pegs the CPU all the way to 72W at times. So if your PL1 and PL2 limits do not coincide, you will throttle for a split second. IF the chassis can't take the wattage draw after unlocking TPL limits, it will thermal throttle instead. It's really a fine balance of hardware and chassis.
Funny enough, even new 9th gen laptops with 9750H in new 2019 chassis score average 300-400 points lower than my 8750H in CB R15/R20. I only mention it because there is a LOT of performance to unlock, if you're willing to invest the time and the platform is capable.
Yeah I completely understand that. And usually I am will to make the investment in time but if im already undervolted and I'm hitting that limit on HW monitor just playing BFV it's a bit concerning especially with the FPS dips.
Hello
I found this laptop with the 2080 max q on
amazon for $2000. My only concern is the the inverted motherboard as I would like to add more storage on my own. The laptop is available with 32Gb of ram and 1tb ssd but that bumps the price up to $2600 (Is that worth it?). Is this model configured for raid 0 out of the box?
Hey guys so looking for some advice I am pondering between the Triton 500 with 2080mq andthe Asus zephyrus gx701 with 2070mp
What's concerning me about the Triton is the black screens I've been reading about and the fact that it only has a 180w brick which seems ridiculous . I've had a 1060 laptop with a 180 brick and it drains whole gaming does anyone experience this? I think anything above a 2060 should have a 230w any other 2080mq has a 230w so strange why this has a 180w
And how are the thermals ? The zephyrus reviews flex hard about how cool it runs but this has 3 fans so should be cool too what are your thought
No it's 1 512gb and dissassembly is honestly not that hard will take you about 15 minuites I had a gs65 which is the exact same build as this and you just take some screws out and you're good to go
What are your throttle stop settings ? The 8750h should not have any problems being unthrottled in the Triton 500
I had the gx502 but returned it due to some physical defects. Besides that it was a beast, except that mine couldn't achieve a very good undervolt (got about -.1 on the core and -.05 on the cache) though your luck may end up better than mine. I don't remember exact thermals but it was cool enough to reach 1700Mhz on the Gpu at times (I hit 1900 for a minute at one point but could never get it back up there). My own tweaking resulted in overall lower clocks generally around 1500 to 1680Mhz. I managed 1500Mhz on .7v through MSI afterburner with no stuttering as far as I could tell but there was some minor artifacting in unigine heaven.
It takes longer for the Triton 500, Not only do you need to do it carefully because an error is easy to make. They cover the motherboard with tape that you need to carefully remove because it is quite easy to tear.
decided to go for it and got the triton 700 with the 2080m one wierd thing i noticed after i left it on all day to install games is the batter is reporting 100% when plugged in and fully charged however when i unplugged it to go to the living room couch it says 94% wierd so when went and plugged it back in to see if it was a issue and when i plugged it back it says 100% fully charged... never seen that before ?
Anyone know whether you can get rid of the flashing keyboard when you turn the laptop on? I've disabled the startup animation and sound in bios (v1.06) already but the keyboard flashing is annoying.
Also, is everyone's bios post this slow? Mine is about 15 seconds from pressing the power button til hand-off to windows. Fastboot is on in bios.
I've filmed my bootup a few times now, and it's about 4-5 seconds from pressing the button before the Predator logo even shows up. Then another 10 to get past POST. In total, it's a full 25 seconds to get to my desktop (I auto login so don't have a lockscreen).
I picked up a Triton 500 on amazon prime day and have been loving it so far. I am usually an Alienware guy but I am not satisfied with AWs performance and design recently. Mine is the 2060 base model.
I did notice 2 issues though that seem to be common with the T500. I have only had the laptop for 3 or 4 days and today I got the "black screen" issue that people tend to get. I was in a game (light card game) and the screen went black. The game locked up and crashed. I alt-tabbed and chrome was a black screen. I fired the game back up and it ran incredibly slow... almost like it was trying to run with integrated graphics. I am hoping this is a one time issue, but maybe its not. I did get a popup for dropbox which may be why it locked up...
The other issue is that when I fire up chrome, it doesn't really work for the first 10 seconds. It hangs and looks like it's going to crash, but if I wait... it turns out ok.
Part of me thinks that I should reinstall windows but at this point I already have my stuff setup and games downloaded. There is more bloatware than any other recent gaming laptop I've ever had... Alienwares usually come bloat free.
Those symptoms indicate the Nvidia driver crashed - and when you went back into the game without rebooting the Nvidia driver was set to "limp home mode" where the clocks are limited.
It might be an Nvidia driver issue, or it might be that you overclocked the GPU or changed the voltage (too low / too high) and if you go back to defaults that would stop the crashes.
Or if you haven't Overclocked then the card has a problem - some don't make the cut on full performance settings. You may be able to use the same OC tools to "downclock" the GPU to test to see if the crashes stop, and if they do then RMA the laptop / GPU for another.
There are lots of black screen on boot issues over time with Windows 10 and Nvidia drivers, the trick is to identify which bug is the problem, or if the problem is a hardware problem requiring RMA.
Thanks for the heads up. It wasn't overclocked at all and only happened one time. I will do a fresh install of the nvidia drivers just to be safe though.
The chrome slow start is really annoying though. Maybe I should fresh install that too? Does this happen to anyone else?
What Chrome slow start are you experiencing? On Windows 10 on this laptop? I'm not having this behavior on Chrome "Version 75.0.3770.142 (Official Build) (64-bit)". Maybe it's a particular extension you've added?
As far as the Nvidia driver issue, you might try going back to the driver version originally included with the laptop, see if that's stable, then work forward until you find the unstable version.
This is why I like to keep an image copy of the pre-updated OS image that came with the laptop, for sanity checks like this. Restoring the out of the box OS image onto a spare driver (internal or external) and booting on it gives a quick sanity check as to whether a problem is hardware or updated OS related.
I ended up updating my bios to 1.06 from .05 and its way more stable now. Didn't have any issues in the past few hours.
Chrome only has issues on startup, so I bet you are correct and it is an extension. Then again, it did this when I just installed chrome and none were installed. Either way, I'll reset it to be safe. I'm on version: Version 75.0.3770.142 (Official Build) (64-bit)
How new is it? If you can restore the OS to the out of the box settings - does it have an OS recovery option?
Then see if the problem persists. If it does continue to be unstable then it's likely a bad GPU. This happens occasionally, but it's no fun.
If you bought it at a retailer / seller that you can return for full $ I would do that rather than opening an RMA case and then waiting for shipping / repair / shipping turn around. Maybe the seller has another unit they can swap with your bad unit?
Hello. Currently, I own Acer Predator 15 (i7 6700HQ / GTX 1070) and wanna switch to smth lighter, smaller. ACER Triton 500 (i7 8750H / RTX 2080) looks perfect for this purpose. But maybe there are some common issues? Something that is repeatedly seen here already. Anything like this or this device is reliable?
Ive had the black screen issue but one in a blue moon. Performs without issue on majority of games including rage 2, just cause 4, assassins creed odyssey, farcry 5 etc.
time for my 2 drop my 2 pennies after owning the T500 for 2 weeks I have the RTX 2080m model and im taken away by it. It runs games better than any laptop ive owned before nothing makes this thing sweat, and it runs cooler than anything ive played on before.
I do not have the black screen others have had with this machine at all and i play for hours at a time however the 180w brick is not enough to power the system ( to no ones surprise) seriously who is the idiot that thought a 8750h with a 2080 max q or not is going to run on a 180w brick ive had 1050 machines drain power under gaming with a 180w brick this needs a 230w EVERY 2070 or above machine i have ever seen comes with a 230w or above but nope acer thought a 180w is okay ... stupid. after 2 hours of gaming the system will say its fully charged, however when i unplug it im down to 92%.
perfect segue into my favorite part the battery life. this thing is ridiculous with battery. in Gsync mode with bettery batter power setting in balanced mode im getting 3.5 hours at 50% brightness while doing normal tasks and watching youtube videos and switching to optimus mode ive been getting 6-6.5 hours its nuts if you are looking for something that is light, cool, and has insane battery life this is the machine you want.
for those looking for the numbers im extremely happy to report this is awesome in that part too i was able to get a -112.3 under volt on both the core and cache I cap the cpu at 3.9ghz and now im running at 3.9 ghz at all times at idle in optimus mode im idling 41-44c when im gaming in gsync mode its never gone above 85c no matter what i play. For the GPU i use the extreme overclock on games when i need it and the gpu never goves above 75c no matter what ive played.
overall im extremely happy, the battery drain bothers me but i can work around it and the keyboard has a learning curve i hit the predator sense button every time i try to backspace and i hit the up button every time i try to shift lol but other than that its nice to type on. (wish that blue key kaps werent there though)
I've also got a question about clean windows 10 installation. What stuff is mandatory to be taken from Acer web page and which drivers can be left on Windows auto update? Cause on official page everything is dated goes back to February:
What do you mean ? It works exactly how it sounds. There is a toggle in the sense software and you can swap between gsync and optimus. Mode. ( Which every laptop should have honestly Optimus is cancer)
In my experience the best most stable and consistant method is get the wifi driver directly from Intel. Do a fresh install. Then before doing anything else install the Nvidia driver from the most updated driver from their site. Everything else get from Windows update. When everything is complete go to Intel and download the update utility and it will update wifi Bluetooth and any chipset driver you need and that's it.
Acer sinkss a Titanic load of bloatware. Remove all that nonsense
Does anyone know if there's a master list of compatible SSD's? I chucked a cheap Crucial P1 in mine and I suspect it's not exactly compatible. Would like to get confirmation first before I put in a spare Samsung 970 Pro I have available.
Problems? See this thread at archive.org.
