Update 2: Okay guys I was able to successfully flash the asus 2080 maxq vbios successfuly!
https://imgur.com/a/tTRYx2b
boost clocks now reflect the 90w variant.
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Also you use default power brick?
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This is the vbios I used. Make sure you have hybrid graphics on in your bios in case you have any hiccups.
Last edited by a moderator: Nov 6, 2019Talon likes this. -
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Specv89 likes this.
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Here is my score on stock vbios (overclocked gpu)
https://imgur.com/a/WrL2DgP
let me know if you need a stock runLast edited by a moderator: Nov 6, 2019 -
I’m kinda frustrated. You got 8600 on default 80W bios with overclock? What overclock did you do? What’s the numbers?
And I was interested in 90W. -
RDR 2 on Ultra preset. 1080. 45-60 fps.
Default VBIOS, no overclock. -
CPU -.163 undervolt
Latest Nvidia Drivers
Also had the extreme setting set on Predator sense since supposedly it raises the TDP on both the GPU and CPU. -
That's on 90W VBIOS right?
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Maybe I'm missing smth? I'm not getting over 7900 in Time Spy.
180W power brick, stock 80W vbios. overclock values are on screen. I wanna yours 8600Attached Files:
Specv89 likes this. -
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Triton 500 9750h & 2070 max q , turbo mode , manually +180 core +350 memory , NO undervolt , NO repaste , default BIOS
P.S. Optimus on ( since my model doesn't support G-Sync )Attached Files:
Last edited: Nov 16, 2019 -
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I have the 8750H model with the 2080 Max Q. Everything runs pretty well except I get a black screen issue that I can replicate.
I use an external 240Hz Gsync Alienware display and play CS GO. It usually takes 25-40 minutes to crash. Basically the external and internal display go black and I can hear the game is still running. I usually have to use the reset button on the bottom because the power button just keeps putting it to sleep and awake with the display off.
Today I tried playing on the internal display only and could not get it to crash. Does anyone else have this issue? -
Nevermind... The external screen makes no difference. I can get it to black screen on the internal LCD.
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Redbeard likes this.
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https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/41151009?
flashed 100w Asus vbios
+160c
+570m
-.160v cpu Undervolt
Using Triton 700 PSU (modified end) Spliced my extra 180w PSU end to retrofit, -
Sounds superb. Can you do a quick guide with download links? Where we can download working bios, what tool we should use to flash it and how.
Last edited: Nov 20, 2019 -
Step 1: Enter your bios and enable hybrid GPU so by default it boots to the integrated graphics also revert any third party GPU overclocking software to defaults. To get to the bios hold your shift key and initiate a system reboot which will take you to the recovery menu. Just select the option to change UEFI boot. This will take you into your bios.
Step 2: Download files: nvflash tool https://www.techpowerup.com/download/nvidia-nvflash-with-board-id-mismatch-disabled/
Step 3: Create a folder in the C:/ drive and name it nvflash (drop the file from the previous step after it has been extracted in the created directory. Also rename the flash tool to "nvflash64" (makes things easier for the later steps)
Step 4: Download the Asus 2080max q vbios https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/213643/213643 once downloaded, drop the downloaded vbios into the same nvflash directory it should be named "213643.rom" note that on hwinfo 64 it can pull as much as much as 100w once installed. I am thinking this is the 100w variant.
Step 5: open a command prompt as admin
Step 6: In the command prompt type "cd c:/nvflash" and press enter
Step 7: In the cmd prompt type "nvflash64 -b backup.rom" Note: This will create a backup of your oem vbios in the nvflash directory
Now on the the actual flashing part*****Proceed at your own risk****
Step 8: open the device manager disable your Nvidia rtx card
Step 9: Open a new command prompt as an admin and close the old one to start fresh. (user preference)
Step 10: At the command prompt type "cd c:/nvflash" press enter to enter directory
Step 11: Type "nvflash64 -6 213643.rom" then press enter, select yes at the prompts.
Step 12: Once flashing is complete reboot the laptop and enable the GPU and you are ready to go.
Notes: To revert back just follow the same steps (9-12) and use the previously backed up vbios. Should be named backup.rom. Also my gpu overclock settings were different after the flash for example my memory at default vbios can be stable up to +850mhz but after the flash I was only to keep it stable at around +500mhz. I also left it in hybrid mode and did not test boot in discrete gpu only mode. I am confident it will work fine if changed in the bios though. This was also done using the Acer Triton 700 230w PSU the oem 180w will probably not be able to handle the extra wattage but you can still try if you choose to.Last edited: Nov 20, 2019Redbeard, spybyscript and vorob like this. -
It's far easier (and safer) to tweak the values that PredatorSense uses for overclocking to get somewhere between the two and still have a machine that isn't potentially going to kill itself. On my 2080 unit I get around 8400 on Timespy with the 80w default which is already fast enough to handle just about any game at 1080p even with RTX features enabled.
https://www.3dmark.com/spy/9350247
or
https://www.3dmark.com/fs/21012398 for example.
Only tweaks needed needed for that is:
1. Open the PredatorSense file in \ProgramData\OEM\PredatorSense
2. Look for the video card ID matching your machine (device manager can get you this)
3. Tweak 'Turbo' to 120
4. Ram_Turbo to 300
5. Reboot (values won't go into affect until a reboot)
5. Hit the 'turbo' button on the notebook when ready to game or benchmark
Whenever you are in 'turbo' mode you now can hit roughly that 8400 timespy score and gain a decent FPS boost compared to turbo off (about 7200 in timespy). Those values can be played with even more, but anyone who does should be careful and test well. You won't need to get a more powerful PSU at least with these changes either.Last edited: Nov 21, 2019 -
DDUing both Nvidia Driver and Intel Driver and then re-installing Nvidia Driver completely solves the black screen problem
I think it might be caused by having Intel drivers when in dGPU modeRedbeard likes this. -
That's how you've solved the issue? You had it and now everything is okay? Do you update intel drivers now?
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What I am experiencing is rather toasty temps on my 2080 maxq. If I leave everything stock, turbo fan on, and play almost any intensive game the GPU will runaway with itself and heat up to the throttle point of 84C. I have repasted with Gelid Extreme 3, Cooler Master Maker, MX-4, nothing works. Die coverage looked 'ok' but I really think something is wrong with my heatsink or something. What temps do you all experience on your unit at default settings and max fan? I also have the CPU undervolted -155mV. However I have noticed my GPU will pull up to 90w when in 'normal' mode. I thought this GPU was an 80w version? Why am I seeing 90w usage. This 90w pull is what I am thinking might be causing my higher than normal temps.
Side note I found out how to override Predator Sense default undervolt values to make them set -155mV for all profiles by default. No longer am I fighting Predator Sense in XTU to stop it from setting -100mV.
I have until Jan 2020 to send this unit back to Amazon, but I really love the laptop and don't want to. My work around for the temp issue is to simply set the max temp limit to 80C using Asus Tweak II. This allows for around 1200-1400Mhz under load and FPS are still very high. -
I’ve got max 75C without any special movements.
How you managed to correct undervolt values?Talon likes this. -
I show version 90.04.3B.00.C5
If you show something different can you please upload yours here by saving the file with GPU-Z so I can give it a go. It's now a huge deal as I can limit the temps like I said, but would rather just have a lower power limit if possible. Mine is 80w with 90w 'limit' according to the file when I looked at it with TDP Tweaker. It also has an 84c temp limit with 75c as 'lowest'. I am wondering if Acer is shipping different vBIOS at this point.
Also a new BIOS is out on Acer support page. I have not yet flashed it as this one seems to be working great without issue. -
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I'm playing with fans set to auto.Redbeard likes this. -
My machine apparently has a great CPU for undervolting; I can run at -180mV reliably, but I can't increase the overclock values very much at all for the GPU, especially memory. My machine does run a lot quieter than it originally did playing games and I hover around 8200 on 3DMark's Timespy, which seems pretty good for the Triton 500 with the I7 8750. -
I never use the laptop in Optimus mode so I completely removed all traces of the Intel gpu drivers and disabled it via Device Manager, and haven't seen the issue pop up since (going on maybe 2-3 months now)
On the official Predator forums I've seen it suggested it may be specifically linked the auto installed drivers from Windows Update, if you get the most up to date ones straight from Intel it likely wouldn't be a problem. But since I never use Optimus mode on it i haven't been inclined to find out. -
Anyone on here been successful unlocking their bios?
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So I'm kind of like an upgrade junkie. I upgraded the TIM to Kryonaut, upgraded SSDs to 2TB 970 EVO and 2 TB 860 EVO, added a heatsink to the pch, added 32GB RAM, got Intel AX200, got a high res USB DAC and got 2x15.6" 1080p IPS displays for auxiliary displays. Anything else to upgrade? Is there a way to upgrade the speakers? Also anything else to upgrade?
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I just ordered a Triton 500 with RTX 2080 and 512GB SSD.
I am going to replace the SSD. How hard is it to pull it apart? Are there any warranty stickers that will be damaged? Is a repaste with Liquid metal worth the risk?
What are your eperiences with the 90W-Vbios?
- Is it still fine with the 180W PSU?
- What are the Timespy scores between 80W VBIOS + Overclock and 90W Vbios + Overclock? -
Here is a teardown video:
It is not terrible, but will take some time. -
Also new bios out:
Bios 1.12
https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/support-product/7905?b=1
Note: "Optimizes settings for panels" -
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https://www.realhardwarereviews.com/crucial-p1-raid-review/11/ -
Hi I am debating between a Triton 500 and a Blade 15 (early 2019), both with 8750h and 2080-Max-Q and 144Hz FullHD.
I am leaning heavily towards the Triton.
Triton has
+ much faster screen (8ms GtG bs 16ms GtG on Razer) according to notebookcheck
+ two NVME slots
+ Gsync
Razer has
+ smaller build
+ better build quality
+ 90W GPU
+ bigger PSU
Triton is 500 EURs cheaper. -
I haven't owned a Razor Blade laptop in a while but I will say I am impressed with the laptop.
* The razor is smaller but by .1". The 500 is very compact.
* Build quality is hard to quantify. I will say the Triton metal and very solid. I don't have any complaints.
* I actually like the predator sense software for it's simplicity. It works well and doesn't have much bloat. Other than Norton, I don't thing I needed to really remove much else.
* Servicing the Triton is a bit of a chore if you want to change ram/storage/repaste. There is a video on youtube to review if you want to do that. Access to the wifi card/battery is easy.
* FYI You can raid 0 the NVME SSDs. It was surprisingly easy. You don't even need to reinstall windows.
* This is not the 90W version of the 2080 MaxQ. So the performance is still great for the form factor but be aware.
I have owned many Alienware, Clevo, MSI, XPS, and other gaming laptops. I am pretty impressed with this one. Also I was able to find a matching WD SN270 NVME SSD on eBay for $50.
It's good enough for gaming, work, and also use it with my Oculus Quest. -
OK, after reading a bit more the Triton actually is the better deal, because it offers Gsync and the faster display while everything else being pretty much equal.
Now I am torn between the Triton 500 with 8750h and 2080 May-Q für 1670 EUR or the other extreme, an HP Omen 17 with 9750h and a full 2080 for 2070 EUR.
I am coming from a desktop mini itx system with 8700k and 2080 and even this one was struggling to keep steady 120+fps in 3840 x 1080p in Modern Wafrare on my C49HG90 external monitor even without Raytracing. So maybe the Triton 500 will be a bit too much of a downgrade. 17" is also much more comfortable while gaming on the notebook itself.
However, the Omen is a brick and looks like ass. Seriously, we are talking about high end gaming notebooks with a price tag clearly targeted at adults with real jobs. Why do gamign notebooks still have to look like they designed with 12yo in mind? -
Yeah you will see the 2080 MaxQ perform under a desktop 2070. The full Mobile 2080 is under a Desktop 2070 super generally.
https://www.notebookcheck.net/HP-Om...ing-with-some-small-limitations.432964.0.html
The HP Omen will be a much faster laptop but it is also *alot * heavier and larger. The Triton 500 and Blade 15 are basically the same size a normal 14" laptop. It is a trade off.
Also the Triton does have a odd transformer looking logon on the back, but other than that it's pretty plain.
If you do want more performance but want to avoid the "GAMERZ4LYFE" aesthetic, you can check out Clevo units. They tend to be no nonsense performance with configurations that include desktop parts and even dual AC adapters. They are boring looking beyond belief. -
According to this video:
the reviewer managed to get around 1850-1900 MHz GPU clock on the Omen 17 with some undervolting the CPU and overclocking the GPU. My 2080 Desktop A1(!) GPU hovers around 1948 MHz after overclocking. So the performance difference in GPU-bound scenarios is negligible at best.
He also reviewed the Triton 500 but not as thorough.
Here the 2080 Max-Q sat at around 1400 MHz in real world scenarios (which does not include 3DMark).
I wonder what core clocks are possible with a 90w bios and some overclocking. If we are able to reach 1.500 Mhz we will be talking about a 20% performance hit compared to the Omen 17. That would be fine with me.
Since I really need those 2 TB of storage I have to choose between:
Triton 500: 8750h + 2080 MAX-Q +1 2 x 1TB Crucial P1 = 1766 EUR
HP Omen 17: 9750h + 2080 Laptop + 1 x 1TB Crucial P1 + 1TB HDD = 2057 EUR.
Triton 500 always has a great display, the HP has either a a little bit better (ChiMei) or a lot worse display.
17" is a lot more comfortable for competitive multiplayer shooters and faster, but is heavy and at least in my opinion, ugly as f*.
Triton 500 is way more portable, has a battery life that actually is of some use and looks great.
I also have a very nice 15" bag but a very ugly 17" bag in storage at home
A really hard decision -
As for Triton 500 vs Razer. Razer a really good thing, but if Triton is cheaper for 500EUR then 100% go for Acer.
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Personally I switched from a fullscale gaming laptop (Acer Predator 15) to Triton 500 for its size, weight and battery life. Sometimes I miss a bulky gaming beast, but no. I don't wanna carry with me anything heavier than 2.5 kgPlus, this 6700HQ+1070 from Predator 15 has less performance then Triton 500. So it was a no-loss upgrade.
I also love T500 because of my personal tech freak: I really love it when internals takes the full scale of the laptop's body. Every inch is used and Triton 500 is one of such devices
Last edited: Dec 17, 2019Redbeard likes this. -
They sent me a monitor instead of the notebook and the seller is on holiday leave until Christmas Eve... So I am back to Razer vs Omen.
Last edited: Dec 17, 2019 -
OK Triton and Omen are no longer available, I want a laptop before Chritsmas, Razer it is.
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https://www.amazon.com/s?k=acer+triton+500+laptop&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 -
I am from Germany. There was a big Acer sale back in September that offered the Triton 500 8750h+2080 für 1.699 EUR that I missed.
I found one for the same price at the ebay outlet of a big electronics store, but they royally screwed up (sending me a 35" monitor instead immediately before going on a 2 week vacation break.
So I went with the Razer Blade Early 2019 instead (2090 EUR).
That probably wasn't the MOST rational decision of my life, but I want it NOW
Amazon is also easy for returns of something else comes along the way.
Triton 500
Discussion in 'Acer' started by Terreos, Jan 7, 2019.