Triton 500

Got it. Too bad that happened... I hope the Razer works out for you, but if it doesn't I wouldn't mess around with it and I'd return it.

There are bound to be better choices in the New Year. Schöne Ferien

 

I am repasting the laptop. Should I put TIM on the GPU VRAM or Fujipoly thermal pads?

 

Losing AC adapter only in 1 game (Acer Triton 500 - i7 8750H / RTX 2080 MAX-Q)

I faced an extremely strange issue while I was playing Far Cry New Dawn. In ~1 hour of playing, I hear system beep notifying me that the AC adapter was disconnected. My FPS drops, normal thing if I would really disconnect the adapter. I reconnect it to the laptop but nothing happens. And only reconnecting adapter to outlet solves the issue and I can continue playing for hours. Nothing strange is noticed on devices. The laptop is not overheated. The adapter is not overheated. Moreover, Far Cry ND is not the toughest thing I play, for example, Battlefield V is much more stressful game both for CPU and GPU and I usually play ~4 hours in a row, nothing happens. Control was a beast for GPU with RTX ON, no issues. Ashes of Singularity is a CPU killer, nothing happened. So far such a strange thing happens only while I play FCND and it happens with a 100% chance.

 

That is weird. Does it do it's trick at the same exact spot in the game every time? Maybe there is a transient load at that point that triggers the behavior in the power system?

If you can determine the "feature" that is drawing the extra power, reduce or disable it in the game settings to see if you can stop it from happening.

Do you have the Windows Power Plan set to High Performance - slider too? Maybe try reducing to Balanced on both tunings and see what happens.

 

It's all the same as for more demanding games. Moreover, I played FC with a 45FPS limit, so it wasn't that hard for a system to run it. Anyway, game is completed and deleted

 

As I understood Triton 500 uses thermal grease all over, so you should stick with the same.

 

It indeed uses thermal grease all over but a special kind made for covering larger distances, similar to K5. You cant just use normal paste on the long run unfortunately.

 

Just put on a brand new heatsink last night (my old one was defective and overheated) and it came with the blue goo preinstalled but slightly smeared from shipment I assume. I wiped it clean, removed that BS black square cover that was actually sized improperly and would have impeded good contact with the die. I used 0.5mm thermal pads on the memory modules and vrm chokes. The mosfets had 1.0mm thermal pads installed so I kept those. Both GPU and CPU die I used Gelid Extreme. Temps are great finally. CPU in CB20 with max fans was hitting max 70s with 2930 score. BFV gaming temps in 70s and 80s on CPU, and GPU hit max of 77C. Finally temps are acceptable to me, and I'm impressed with how much of a different it made.

Has anyone tried the new BIOS yet? I have avoided updating just in case they are trying to sneak the removal of XTU undervolt control into it. Right now I have no BIOS issues so I doubt I'll be updating anytime soon.

 

I'm on 1.12 BIOS, no issues.

They've also released Predator Sense (2019/12/31) (3.00.3136), but still didn't fix fkn glowing issue with their LCD Overdrive.

 

Where can you buy a new heatsink?

 

https://www.sourceitstore.com/product/24-q50n1-001/

Definitely not cheap (they also raised the price $10 since my order) but worth it for me since it fixed my heating issue 100%. I had been searching for almost 2 months to find the part #, and then to find a retailer. After some serious googling I finally found the exact part #, and then it took more time to find this company that sells the part. I was a bit skeptical of the website but they listed it as 'in stock' and immediately after my order it dropped to 4 in stock. I actually ordered it from their Canadian version of the website not realizing they had a US store as well. I ordered around the holidays on Dec 19 and because of that it did take a bit of time till delivery on Jan 6. For me it was worth the price because something was definitely wrong with my heatsink. Since I purchased my 2080 Max-Q Triton from Amazon 'renewed' at $1545 out the door I had little to complain about other than the thermals being high. Luckily for me this new one works 100% as it should.

 

Do you know if we can get better speakers or something?

 

Not sure about the speaker part, the thought has crossed my mind to attempt a mod of Triton 700 speakers, but not sure how well they would fit or if I could mod them in properly.

https://www.cdsparts.com/search.aspx?searchterm=all&facet=vendor:3,model:20564

This company is legit with quick shipment of Acer Triton 500 laptop parts and the prices are very fair.

 

Hi,
i got the Triton 500 with the rtx2070 but have a (huge) problem. When i use the notebook with the AC the GPU fan is spinning up when the CPU gets 45°C+ and this is annoying loud. For me this doesnt make sense because the CPU fan is not spinning up. I cant really see that this would be normal because i cant really use the Laptop with the AC. Has my Triton a Hardware defect?

 

I don't see any mention of it in this thread, but in the Acer forum and throughout NBR people have been using Notebook Fan Control (NBC) to tune up their CPU and GPU fans when there is no control provided by the maker of the laptop (are there any fan control tools in Acer apps?).

I've used NBC a number of times years ago before Asus put out better fan control tools for their CPU / GPU, and some people still prefer independent tools like NBC over for example Asus's Gaming Center, and instead use Intel XTU + MSI Afterburner + NBC (or other fan control tools).

Has anyone here used NBC or another fan control tool with their Acer Triton 500? Please share the profile you used to build your profile with us.

Here's the source on Github:
https://github.com/hirschmann/nbfc/wiki
https://github.com/hirschmann/nbfc/wiki/How-to-create-a-NBFC-config
https://github.com/hirschmann/nbfc

I'm not sure how old this is but google turned up this pdf hosted here on NBR:
Notebook Fan Control How to

There used to be a german(?) home page for NBC long ago, but I don't see it turn up in a google search, only the github hosting pages:
https://www.google.com/search?q=notebook+fan+control+home+page

It's not difficult to configure a profile, please check out that pdf + the github site + google to make it easier for you.

Please post your NBC profile with instructions when you get it running, and after you've used it and tuned it.

 

I'm a little bit scared. I've got 7 people of 8 with black screen issues on a Russian forum. 2060-2070-2080. All with Intel Core i7-8750H and all play from Nvidia Optimus mode. I'm the only one without this thing, but I'm constantly sitting in Nvidia-only mode.

They've reinstalled drivers, updated bios, etc. Nothing helped except limiting fps to 120.

What's going on? There are so many people with such issue. Am I the only one with Intel Core i7-8750H and zero black screens?

 

Hey there, I was curious if you have any pics or vid of that operation? I wanted to repaste my Triton but the only disassembly vid of it ends before the fans/ heatsink part. How hard is it to remove them?

Wysłane z mojego SM-G975F przy użyciu Tapatalka

 

Black screen issue? I've had mine for -almost- a year now. There was one RMA issue where I had to send it in because the machine completely black screened, but that sounds different since they can do things like update drivers/etc. Mine ended up having a fried mobo; it was repaired and since has been completely fine.

I've run it in both g-sync and Optimus mode and haven't had any other problems with it. It's used pretty heavily too; VR, games, and software dev. I'd say other than that one early issue it's been one of the most stable notebooks I've had.

 

Does anybody know the thickness of triton's 500 thermal pads?
I wanted to do both, repaste and change the thermal pads since I'm about to open it anyways.

 

Beware, the latest Nvidia driver lowered my 3dmark score. I always had 7500+

December driver:
https://sun9-1.userapi.com/c205628/v205628521/607f8/LrLVHT6i72w.jpg
Latest driver:
https://sun9-36.userapi.com/c205628/v205628521/607ee/7hxTi8mHnys.jpg

 

Sorry about my delay getting back to you on this and your other question. Unfortunately I didn't make a video on the process, but if you watch the YouTube video on disassembly it's very straight forward, and the heatsink comes off fairly easily after you remove the fan connections and screws. Don't be afraid while lifting it out, you may get some resistance from the thermal paste glue they used. I removed all of the blue smurf crap they used and you will can reuse their old pads (I think 2 of them) and then you will need 0.5mm and 1.0mm pads.

I think I used 0.5mm pads on most, including the memory modules. Once you've padded up, Do a quite placement test with the heatsink and eyeball around the chassis to look for gaps. I also highly recommend Gelid Extreme thermal paste. I also went with some cheaper Amazon thermal pads from Arctic and they worked out great! Blue as well so they match the original blue smurf paste they used. Honestly after replacing my heatsink, and repasting/padding my temps are really really good for this thin chassis.

 

Need your doublecheck guys.
I've got Triton 500 with i7 8750H and RTX 2080 MAX-Q. And 2080 here is 80W (735 - 1095 MHz core clock)
But Jarrod'sTech states in his video that Triton 500 packed with Intel Core i7-9750H has 90W version of 2080 (990 - 1230 MHz core clock).
Is he wrong or not?

( )

 

There was a refresh to the Triton. If you do buy them I think since the summer they did come with the i7-9750H instead, but this is the first I heard about the 90W version of the 2080. I've tried flashing to a 90W and ran it for about a week... It didn't really do much other than benchmark about 500pts higher in TimeSpy, but in real world use it also seriously increased the temp when playing games and caused thermal throttling, making things worse.

Of course, that was using a vbios posted in this thread earlier that wasn't exactly for the same hardware. Maybe if a 90W version did exist for the Triton 500, that would work out better.

With the 90w I was seeing about 8200-8400 in time spy with turbo on, vs about 7900-8000 with the 80w bios. Not a huge difference, the bigger thing was temp. With the 80W the machine rarely hits 90C, usually cruising in the high 80s after an hour or so of gaming.

 

Yes, there's a newer version with i7-9750H.
http://www.google.co.uk/shopping/pr...MIkP2u-uje5wIVA7DtCh0t2QazEAQYAiABEgImlvD_BwE
https://uk-store.acer.com/predator-...b6d3d70d70&utm_medium=Awin&utm_campaign=74988

 

Ye, i7-9750H revision is not news for me, but the statement that 90W is there surprised me. And this blogger insists that it's 90W, though no proof was shown and his bench results are equal or worse than my 8th gen with 80W.

 

Man, what are you doing? Or its how in your place? Cause I had maximum 76C and only in some games with 144+ fps enabled. Usually its 70C.

 

#

I received my Triton 500 with i7 9750H and RTX 2080 MaxQ about a week ago, yes in Turbo mode power limit is 90W see below. I always use it in normal mode due to the noise of Turbo mode.

 

My Triton 500 also shows there 90w. Even not inturbo. This value is a rough calculation, not a direct report from gpu.

90w variant should have higher base clocks cavaliers.

 

I just run Time Spy twice.

Turbo off, 7318 points



Turbo ON, 8043 points.



In turbo you see in Afterburner the GPU clock about 200Mhz higher under load, see below.


Besides this, as we all know, Razer runs the 2080 MaxQ at 100W, therefore scoring about 8800 points with the same CPU

https://www.notebookcheck.net/So-mu...azer-Blade-Pro-17-Laptop-Review.424150.0.html

So I am convinced that yes, in Turbo mode power limit is raised to 90W. However it is just too noisy to be practical for me.

 

So I have had the laptop for a week, still another week to decide whether to keep it or not. I am inclining on keeping it although it has some flaws which annoy me for 1999 EUR (got it discounted through Acer Store) .

Things I don't like:

1. Backlight bleed, it is not severe but the corners have it. It bothers me a bit. Before this I had an MSI GS65 and this was MUCH worse. I also had two GS60s in the past and both had backlight bleed as well.
2. GPU fans at low speed (around 2K rpm) they vibrate a bit. Like cheap desktop fans with crappy bearings when running at low speed. CPU fan doesn't do it. Annoying. The MSI GS65 didn't have this issue. I might need to send the laptop to have the GPU fans replaced.
3. Ugly Predator logo on the lid and during boot.
4. Crappy speakers. Again the MSI GS65 did a bit better.

Then what to like:
1. Good performance, reasonable thermals and noise gaming after -115mv undervolt. Better thermals than MSI GS65 (also with a 80W GPU).
2. Screen with GSync, good quality and good response time (AU Optronics B156HAN08.2 (AUO82ED)). The MSI GS65 had the AU Optronics B156HAN08.0 (AUO80ED) which has slower response times and felt less crispy during fast motion.
3. Compact with a similar footprint than the MSI GS65.
4. The keyboard, despite not per-key RGB, is significantly better for typing than the one in the MSI GS65 which had less key travel, keys were bigger, and the finish was more slippery.

I think I will keep it, what annoys me the most is probably the backlight bleed but all gaming laptops can be affected.

An then, for me GSync is a must, gameplay is just SO MUCH smoother with it, plus I mainly play BF V and for competitive gaming nVIDIA Optimus for laptops without MUX and direct Display - dGPU connection induces about 8-10ms of input lag which is always noticeable. On top of thi,s on average Optimus consumes 2GB of extra system memory (for iGPU) and costs about 15% of dGPU performance.

Aside of the added input lag, under the same settings, the GS65 in BF V with the 1660Ti was doing 80fps with the built in display (the monitor is connected to the iGPU) vs 100 fps when using Display Port (with direct dGPU connection). That made me realize having a MUX is mandatory for me.

So as of early 2020, the only three thin and light laptops with MUX that I am aware of are the Triton 500 2080 MaxQ, the Asus GX502GW with 2070/2080 MaxP and the Lenovo Y740 2070/2080 Max Q.

The Lenovo is much bigger, has a slower response time screen, a bad keyboard, no fan control, a smaller battery, so I discarded this.
The Asus is better built than Triton, but with the 115W GPU it gets very very noisy. The 240Hz screen is dim and has PWM under 30% brightness. The lid is also flimsy and can also present back light bleed. The keyboard doesn't seem as good as in the Triton.
So in my eyes the Triton 500 is the winner, although with some flaws.

It's a shame MSI won't put GSync/MUX in the GS66 because that laptop looks fantastic. Acer it is then.

 

Haha, I'm not sure how great hwinfo is at testing the GPU power! Because, running TimeSpy, it appears my max is 104W. It seems that the Nvidia and/or 3DMark updates over time has "lowered" my score since I used to get about 8400 in the summer.

 

Looks like after all the GS66 is going to offer a MUX. Probably reserved for the upper tier models like Acer and Asus.

It looks very very nice, while I think the Triton 500 is a better package than the MSI GS65 now with the GS66 MSI has again the upper hand. It will be interesting to see how Acer responds.



Motherboard is not flipped and that cooling solution looks nice.

EDIT : From the comments, no G-SYNC, no mini Display Port... mmm... a bit disappointing then. Probably I'd still favor the Triton 500 only downside is the flipped M/B.

 

I'll take a second USB 3.2 with DP over mini DP any day. I hope the second USB C ports supports DP over type C

 

Can anyone please share the dumped by gpu-z vbios of RTX 2080 max-q?

 

https://gofile.io/?c=1ZcQN6

Just fair warning I really believe the latest BIOS for the Triton 500 likely contains the 'fix' to disable Undervolting on the Triton 500 in reponse to the Intel security vulnerability. I really recommend you do not upgrade to it unless you want to lose the ability to undervolt your 8750H or 9750H.

On the plus side I did figure out a way to roll back to an older BIOS quite easily, however I have not tested this after updating to the latest BIOS version. I don't dare flash that crap as I'm almost certain it will break undervolting.

 

Thanks!
This is vBios 80 Watt from Triton 500 with i7-7850h.

Can anyone please share the dumped by gpu-z vbios of RTX 2080 max-q from new Triton 500 with i7-9750 ?

 

I'm sorry but at the end returned the Triton 500 on the last day of the return window. The BBleed, rattling GPU fans,coil whine during 3D apps and Predator Sense LCD overdrive bug were too much to swallow for 2000 EUR.

I think I´ll give a try to the GS66.

Acer has just announced the new Triton 500 with Intel 10th Gen, 300Hz panels and NVIDIA Super graphics cards. The keyboard is now RGB per key and the cooling system has been improved.

https://www.anandtech.com/show/1569...ates-10th-gen-intel-core-and-nvidia-rtx-super

Today Acer is refreshing the lineup with even more performance with the latest CPUs from Intel, and GPUs up to the NVIDIA RTX 2080 Super Max-Q. But Acer has also added a few new features as well, including an optional 300 Hz IPS display, up from 144 Hz last year, and Wi-Fi 6 thanks to the Killer AX1650i. And as a bonus, the new model offers a per-key RGB backlit keyboard, stepping up from the zoned keyboard backlighting last year.

Acer has tweaked the cooling with their Vortex Flow design, offering three fans, 4th generation AeroBlade 3D fans with serrated edges, and five heat pipes. Overall, Acer says they are getting 33% better thermal performance than the 2019 model.

The updated Triton 500 will be available in May starting at $2199.99 USD.

 

Why the heck are these companies not going AMD for high end?? Intel high end processors are objectively bad. I hope AMD releases a laptop with 2080 super + R9 4900HS/H

 

Is there a way to monitor my NVIDIA GPU power consumption? HWMonitor and HWiNFO don't show anything.
I suspect the GPU power limit has been decreased since NVIDIA driver v442.19 and it's not fixed yet. I'm consistently getting lower clocks (and slightly lower temps) and almost 10 percent worse frame-rates in every game compared to v441.87. Even in RDR2 despite the game asking for a driver update and warning me that 441.87 is not supported.
Anyone have similar experience?

 

Because it's financially suicide. And it would be a STUPID move. AMD doesn't make the call it's the companies making the laptops that make the call. Intel has money. Companies want to make money. Intel pays more than AMD. Simple. AMD only just now and I mean literally now just made a good mobile CPU. So is Acer took the risk of making a laptop with a 2080 and 4900HS and it doesn't sell well, then they're in the red. And it's not a simple as putting an AMD CPU where an Intel CPU was. A WHOLE NEW BOARD would need to be made. That isn't free or cheap.

Don't expect high end AMD laptops until 2021. Because no manufacture is going to take that risk for a few thousand enthusiasts. AMD has to prove they can keep up and stay competitive. Once that happens we will finally see them on the high end.

 

I have 8750H+2060 config and my CPU consumes 12w at least even on idle. Intel XTU measures core TDP to be small enough but package TDP is always core TDP +12 thus I'm getting terrible battery life, like 2.5 hours at most and the fans are audible all the time.

I uninstalled Intel integrated GPU driver and the problem is solved although the games run like crap and looks like it can't make use of nvidia card.
I also uninstalled nvidia driver using DDU and the problem is solved again.
I tried Ubuntu and it recognized both graphics processors but there is no abnormally short battery life so I assume the TDP has to be normal.
But in Windows with both drivers installed the problem still exists.

I had already updated both my main BIOS and graphics BIOS with the official Acer ones but have no idea if the problem occured before or after that. But since it's fine in Ubuntu I don't thinks it's a hardware or firmware issue. I just know that it was ok at first when I bought it.

Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance

 

Hey this isn't related to this post, but you said in an earlier post that you had a really bad experience with razer returns. I'm returning a product and I'm having a similar experience as you. Since I'm new to the forum I can't use messages yet so is there an email or something I could message you on?

 

They fixed the issue with the latest driver.

 

Guys what is your idle temperature on triton 500 with rtx2060?

 

Hi all,

Just today I purchased the Triton 500 2080mq 32gb 1tb (2x512). I would kindly ask for your support! Should I upgrade the bios to the latest? Are there any downgrades involved e.g. locking the undervolting. In any case much appreciate any response!

Best,

Dick

 

If you mean the CPU it's 40-45 °C

 

I'm facing a rare but strange situation. I play the game, and then hear a beep sound that AC adapter was unplugged. And while it still plugged in, I'm playing from the battery from this moment. If I reconnect it to the laptop nothing happens, I need to reconnect it to the wall outlet. Tried different outlet, no luck. I dunno, maybe laptop sends some big request for voltage and AC adapter self-shutdowns itself? Tried to google but none of such issue happened to other users not only of Triton 500 but any other laptop. Thing happens extremely rare so I'm not on big alert, but still. Maybe I'll buy a new power supply since a need another one to have it in the office...

 

It is BEST guys if you don't unplug the laptop from wall outlet and it always stays at home, just remove the battery .. As you slowly destroying it ..

 

It's a myth. And it’s very presumptuous to consider yourself smarter than the engineers of the company who developed the laptop.

 

It is not the way u thinking... it is not develop laptop but manufacture..
And to manufacture the laptop is slightly complex... The well known laptop companies such acer, asus or msi, dell , HP etc... , they HIRE completely different company to create design of the laptop ... then they design chassis and then ANOTHER company will design the motherboard layout to fit into the chassis .. then msi even has company which makes keyboard design for them.. not all laptop manuf. do this...And last and not the least another company design the battery shape ...
So I guess am smart enough...