How to pinmod and further overclock the M11x R1 (SLG= Hardmod only)

Failing a modded bios that works with CL7/CL8 which the chipset does support, could get the Kingston HyperX pc8500 ram shown here which boots up using CL5 in OC-mode on a m11xR1, then flash it to be CL6. That would then alleviate RAM stability OC walls.

 

so if i do the 1.73ghz mod with cutting pin 2 (correct?) will probably make my ram unstable? if it does that what about a SPD mod? my ram is running right now at 399 MHz (2:3) @ 6-6-6-15

 

it depends. my G.skill ram wouldnt even boot. i had to test ALOT of different sticks to get it stable. i wouldnt suggest doing the 1.73ghz mod unless you have a bunch of ram sticks to test. i got lucky and got 2x2gb samsung sticks to be stable

 

Solder. Since you're gonna void your warranty anyway, may as well do it right and gain 30% instead of 8.4%. That is if you have the skill. It may be easier if you can trace from pin 7 and 3.3v to other components such as a resistor or pad so you don't solder onto <1mm solder points.

It has a chance of that, yes. An SPD mod is for R2 only as R1 doesn't boot with timings higher then CL6.

 

I actually tried the SLG mod and found it REALLY hard to get the 10k resistor onto the small little pins. When I looked at some guy's photos he seemed to have a separate wire soldered to the resistor.

Finding a different source for 3.3v would make this job a hell of a lot easier. :/

Also.. I ended up getting the 7 beeps afterwards the first time I tried it due to accidently soldering two pins together. This job is a tough one.. (I also took some guy's advice and bought the 20 dollar soldering gun from radioshack. Still failed the mod though.. the solder just didn't want to stick to the pin without getting onto adjacent pins.)

Also when cutting a pin.. do you just "get rid of it"? As in no way to replace it..?

 

What 10K resistors are you guys using?

► 10K ohm 1 Watt 5% Carbon Film Resistor

Sorry for being a plank and asking the dumb questions.

 

some guy did use a piece of wire to connect to pin 7.

Did you flux before soldering? No offence if you did. How did you go finding other connections to the pins? They could be on the other side. some guy had to sharpen his tip to make it finer so he could solder his fine wire.

Cutting the pin should be irreversible. In theory a small blob of solder or conductive ink can fix it but it's very small and nobody tried.

 

this may sound dumb but i forgot what resistor i used. the pic may be able to tell you from the color code.

i did cut Pin4 (on the voltage controller not the PLL) for the 1.1 voltmod and then later reconnected it with a blob of solder. so it can be done, just make sure you leave some room on the chip side. it took me about 30min to cut through with a hobby knife. i just litteraly scratched thru the pin with the sharp tip of the hobby knife. but it was worth it as is was able to reconnect the pin. it gets easy after you get your inital cut line started, you just keep scratching away till you feel PCB( circuit board).

@ nando, how high would you expect that RAM to OC with the looser timings? is it safe to assume it probably the same chips on the 1333 Dimms just downclocked to deal with the lower Cas stress? im just asking cuz the next step for SLG owners would be getting 1200mhz Cas6 RAM to run the 400mhz FLsx mod. right? would this be possible with that RAM?

 

It's cool, I'm just tired and asking stupid questions.

The code indicates you're using 1-0-3-gold or 10K Ohm x 0.1 multiplier.

I'm sure I'll sort it out. cheers.

 

I did not flux. I actually haven't gotten around to finding another source for 3.3v as I don't have the equipment atm.

May I ask you some guy. Where did you get the wire to solder your connection with? I tried using a tiny fiber of wire from cutting a random cable, but I figured that wouldn't work. Even if it did my solder tip wasn't small enough.

So you sharpened your tip down in order to get it fine enough? I might have to look into doing that.. Hmm.

Meanwhile, I might just consider cutting cutting pin 2. But judging from the responses towards ram.. I doubt my 8 gb of G.Skill ram will work with it..

Newegg.com - G.SKILL 8GB (2 x 4GB) 204-Pin DDR3 SO-DIMM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Laptop Memory Model F3-10600CL9D-8GBSQ

That's the ram I bought. Has anyone tried it with this?

 

hey no prob Dr.

i went into Radioshack and just grabed the smallest (physical size) 10k reststors they had. i can go back and check what the specs were if you want. its on my way home so its no big deal.

 

i actually used a single strand of wire i cut from my solder wick spool. it worked out well! for the iron tip i cant take credit. it was actually that small out of the box. i did try to mod a normal sized tip and that didnt work out as well as id like it to. that why i was suggesting the super small iron kit Radioshack has. it came with a ton of tips and the sharp bent one was the one that worked best for me. i think the tip was actually made for wood burning but whatever, it worked!

i am using so me basic GSkill 1066mhz 2x4gb dimms. they are working out well. your RaM should be fine for at least the 1.73 mod.

 

It's cool at the moment, I just checked the tech shop I use and they've got hundreds of resisters listed, which numerous are 10K, but I have a pic of your resister, memorized the colour code, so if I can't narrow it down to one after a physical observation and a bit of research I may be back.

They know me at the shop and I'm sure they'd hide if they could.

Oh, and the same shop has tens of fine soldering tip's, magnifying glass on supported stand, heat dispersing grips and the list goes on.

It's all good.

I have Dell supplied Samsung Memory so... well see.

 

lol nice!

yea i need a shop like that around here. Radioshack sucks these days for that kind of stuff. now all they sell is cell phones.

i need a few low Ohm resistors to slow my fan down. i tried a 10 Ohm and it was a bit much. im thinking i need maybe something in the ballpark of 1-5 Ohm. i just want to slow it down a tad since the fan table is overkill. if im over 50c for just a few seconds the fan kicks on for what seems like a few minutes (may only be 60sec for all i know) but the as soon as the fan kicks on the temp drops dramatically down to the high 30s. but the fan remains on for a while regardless. so i just want it to be more quiet. besides its not like i ever see the meduim fan speed under full load anyway. if im lucky ill see 60c on the GPU here and there but for the most part it stays i the mid to high 50s. the only time i see higher than 45c on the CPU is if i use IntelBurn, which can make it crack 50c.

 

I even tried using that bent over small tip that came with the soldering gun. Maybe I just fail at soldering as this is like the 5th -ish time soldering ever. Did you get any solder onto your adjacent pins and just scrape it off with a needle or something? Or did you just get it right the first go?

 

i actually dropped a blob that connected 3pins!

but i just used the solder wick and the iron to remove the excess solder. all i had to do was drag the heated wick and iron accross the pins. i had a freaking heartattack tho. i thought my laptop was toast lol.

 

That stuff is good for stock. Haven't seen a kit that couldn't pass 1000mhz CL6 yet.

Try flux. It will help.

Those G.Skill kits have 3 different type of memory IC on them- Hynix, Micron and G.Skill so that all overclock differently depending on type.

 

That's an interesting video. It'll help me a lot. I actually just went at soldering myself without any teachings. So I guess I was doing it the improper way. Though I need to go buy some solder wick too as that would make my life easier. The solder I have is rosin core, though I did buy some flux a while back that I still have.

I'm still a newbie to soldering, but I'll get there. I'm not one to turn down a job, so I am pretty persistent in getting this mod done..

 

You chosen to start at the deep end.
Best thing you can do is use a multimeter to find connections. Soldering to a 1-2mm resistor is easier then soldering to a <1mm pin with adjacent pins you can't connect.

 

I gave up on the soldering until I can get a solder wick. I went ahead and did the 1.7 ghz mod by disconnecting pin 2. It worked with my gskill ram so I'm content for now.

 

The soldering video is informative, but it is showing HUGE components compared to the chip in this notebook. This thing is so small that I don't think you can use much solder at all. Applying any solder to the pin seems like a bad idea since it would almost certainly connect pins I would think.

The wire I used (unsuccessful SLG TME mod) was about the diameter of a hair (40 AWG maybe). I'm not even sure where to get it, but is so small that it is shielded with an enamel I think. Anyone know where to get this enamel shielded wire?

To "strip" wire this small you have to put a small blob of solder on the iron and hold the tip of the wire in the solder until the enamel melts away and the solder will then tin the wire. Then using only the smallest bit of solder on the tip (to transfer heat quickly) I laid the wire on the pin and quickly pressed the iron down on top. In theory this melts the solder still on the wire and connects to what is underneath (the pin). The smallest bit of flux on the pin would help this connection stick. Might take a few stabs at it, but the iron should not need to be near the chip for more than a split second.

Tin the wire, and maybe add a SMALL bit of flux to the pin. Then put the wire to the pin and touch with the iron. The flux, solder on the wire, and tiny bit of solder on the tip will help the connection to be made quickly. You don't want to have to hold the iron to the pin very long. The flux helps to transfer the heat and the solder will be drawn to the heat. So too much solder or flux and things will connect that you don't want connected.

Not like I should talk cause my mod didn't work , but I've soldered a number of small electronic things in the past and the wire stuck good this case. Just no TME unlock.

Anyway I think I'll give it a go with a 2GHz mod (a la some guy) someday. But since I'll almost certainly need new memory, I'm holding out a while.

 

not sure if your still around man but where and when did you buy this RAM?

i was looking for some but couldnt find any.

 

It is an older model. It was Cas 5 1066 ram with no XMP profile.

 

Kingston HyperX Dual Channel 4096MB PC8500 DDR2 1066MHz Memory (2x2048MB) at TigerDirect.com

 

That's desktop memory. And DDR2 to boot.

 

what he said, except it is a cas 5 at 1066, the 1333 is cas 6

check ebay often there are non XMP versions of the pc8500 and pc10600 IRRC

I bought it last year when I got my OCZ barebone kit.


I also got a good kit that will run at the rated timings/speed, but even at 1066 I would need to bump the middle timing for more stability...

 

lucky.....

my dream of 2.4ghz just seems to get farther away the more i look into it.

 

pm sent...


I want to see 2.4ghz as much as anyone, but I can't risk bricking my laptop while I'm still in school... 1 more month and the iron will come out

 

The 1333 is actually Cas 7 by default but can run Cas 6 if you are lucky (none of the newer kits have been able to do this but the older ones can)

I have a 1333 kit that can run Cas 6

Once I sell my M17x that kit will live in the M11x waiting for me to do some hard modding

 

well the only issues i can see if the RAM works as spec is the chipset voltage.

i would need help figuring out how to volt mod it if the extra juice is needed to reach 1600mhz (400mhz base clock).

but other than that it "should" work. i would expect at minimum of a 1k gain in 3Dmark 06 taking me over 9k. the holy grail of R1 Overclocking!

yea thats what i bought originally... twice! but both kits sucked and wouldn't even hit 1000mhz(Cas6), the suckers ran hot too.

 

is this what we are looking for?

KHX1066C5S3K2/4GX - Kingston HyperX 4GB DDR3 SDRAM Memory Module - 4GB (2 x 2GB) - 1066MHz DDR3-1066/PC3-8500 - Non-ECC

oops... i mean this one.

http://www.neworldit.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=KHX1066C5S3K2/4G

 

Yep, the non XMP one.

 

man thats so much $$$ for some RAM.

they dont make emm like they used to lol.

 

My 1333 kit was like $130 when I got it. That was back before DDR3 prices halved late this past summer.

I am still confused by and adjusting to the new freakishly low prices haha

 

i just grabbed 2 4gb dimms for $70 a month or 2 ago. so this is kinda hard to swallow.

 

I have the same RAM, what manufacturer makes your memory chips? mine are micron.

 

Turned it out wasn't stable with one of my sticks. Only one of my 4 gb gksill memory works without errors. The other one fails memory tests and causes my games to crash when put in.. So I just keep it on oc mode and use all of my memory (1.6ghz before mod.) Instead of using the 1.7ghz and 4 gb of OC'd ram.

The games I play (APB) are very resource hungry.. So I kind of need the extra ram.

1x 4 GB G.Skill = Stable
1x 4 GB G.Skill = Not Stable

:/

Where would I go about in seeing the company that makes it? All I see is G.Skill written everywhere on this ram. Though the date on it says FEB 2011 if that helps any.

 

Double post. meh.

 

the chips themselves too? mine have a M on them.

 

Yea, each individual memory chip said "G.Skill 256 MB" Or something similiar.

 

When Pin modding the M11xR1(SLG) we use 10K resisters.

Does anyone know if we can use 0.5Watt 10K resisters? These are MUCH smaller than the 1Watt 10K resisters you guys seem to be using.

The wire on the 0.5Watt 10K resister is much thinner too.
One could almost solder it directly onto the pins.

▼▼▼ Thank you Nando4

 

Sure. 0.5W is an even better choice as adds less bulk and is just as easy to work with. Could even use a SMT resistor but they are harder to source and work with.

 

1W resistors are much more beefy than needed

Remember P=V^2/R=I^2*R

You are running a low voltage and even lower current, .5 or .25W are more than enough

 

Hi, I am new to the thread but i have been a spectator for years. I don't have the m11x, but i do have the same pll chip slg8sp556v.
My lappy is the old Qosmio X305-q701 upgraded: [email protected], 9800m GTX.
I have tried the 333mhz mod and the 300mhz mod but when I turned it on the screen stayed black.
I used a 6k resistor on pin 55 to pin 7 for the 333 fsb (fail). Then pin 55 to pin 2, pin 7 and pin 20 for the 300 fsb (fail). I even used the BSEL mod for increased voltage (vid3+vss=.1v,vid1&2+vss=~.05v).
Either would have been a nice OC. My lappy works fine only after i take apart the painstaking mod on the pll.
Just wondering if anyone would know what I'm doing wrong. Maybe not enough voltage, or ram can't handle the clock fsb. If i could get it to work, my old c2d would be running @3829.5 or @3450.
I know my c2d could handle up to 4ghz thru multiplier by throttle stop, but i think my machine would bennifit more through fsb.
some guy's machine is only 2k behind me on the 3Dmark06, stronger than what I had before i up graded everything,~7k.
Any help would be awesome.
Cheers

 

It sounds like a RAM issuse but since i dont yoir your hardware as well as the M11x it just a guess.

Have you tried just one stick? maybe one of your sticks is a slacker?

Give that a shot.

 

The x9100 will not do better than 3.6 no matter how hard you try. More realistic is 3.4 or so. That chip just runs too hot

 

some guy, do you think i might need pc3-10600 to pull it off? I'm using pc3-8500.
scook9, I have modified my cpu heat sink and use a nice thermal pad to handle a very hot 3.9ghz(almost unstable).
@ that speed thru multiplier its' very hard to see a noticeable difference. Here is my cpuid:
CPU-Z Validator 3.1

 

There are a few things i dont understand.

Does your RAM divider stay @ 1:2?

Does your multiplier stay @ 15?

If so, you would be @ 5ghz CPU & 1333 RAM.

 

Can somebody give me instructions on how to use the setpll thing? I just dont get how to use it...

 

Can you get a photo of the chip or a simple diagram indicating pin 2? So basically just set the BIOS to not overclock and no need for setfsb?