Grab copper and a drill, now!

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A very sticky and white secret.

 

Involving a barrel of whipped cream.

 

With a side dish of tossed salad.

 

Great, you just killed it, Joker. Go back to your cage.

 

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talk bout inapropriate...that how joker led me to my ban.

 

How is it inappropriate? I was talking about the white warranty stickers on the GPU heatsink, dum dum. You're the one that's thinking that it's inappropriate. You should know too. EIement and I caught you doing it again the other night. And you're the one that opened your big mouth to 5150Joker's post and got banned for it.

 

Soviet, the stickers are yellow.

 

Okay, a very sticky and yellow secret. Same thing, different color.

 

ofcourse the same thing...and btw since its a forum and idk when ur being sarcastic, just for the record, taht thing is very un-sticky, it comes off easy as hell. that two points wrong in ur statement, unless ur being sarcastic or whatever.

EIement and I caught you doing it again the other night...? what?

 

Got the Joker panel today. Proceeded to drill it out like I had done with my old panel.

1366x768, Xtreme Burning Mode, 8xAA.
CPU: T9900 with 11.5x/3.06 Ghz/1.188v
GPU: Standard voltages (.95) 605/1512/908
Ambient 67.1F
On top of XPad


Goddamn Asus is stupid for not opening up that vent

 

I bet Asus could even release the stock laptops at nvidia clocks if they even tried it..... what i dont get is it seems to be done that way, even if its then glued to an extra plastic, why they didnt even try and release the new ones with it open/mesh with it.

 

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dammit, now ur starting to get to sager levels, i think joker maxed @ 71C on furmark w/ his sager. those are great great results specially considering its overclocked...man im bloody jealous.

 

Now that's what I'm talking about.

 

Good results there. Is there a mesh covering the hole?

 

Yes there is. Nice results forge!

 

The mounting pressure on this laptop is ridiculous.I just did this mod and tried using Arctic Silver as a replacement for the original thermal paste,on the cpu the contact was fine,but with the common thin layer that is the best,the copper plate didn't make contact with about 30% of the die.I then tried filling it with a bigger amount(much bigger),it worked but the temperature were really bad.I then removed the metal plate the GPU has around,that finally worked.But as I said,if the copper plate was attached better,there would be massive gains on the temperatures,2 little screws is not even near enough.

 

To those having problems to remove the black thermal tape that comes with those longer heatsinks I have a cheap solution.
As I was to use a lot of it(bought 32,used 28) and didn't want to manually remove it from them,first I tried to just remove the tape cover and leaving them in nail paint remover(acetone+ethanol) for 2 days.It made just a little bit easier to remove,then I tried just Ethanol for 1 day,didn't make it any better.Than I tried vinegar for one more day,made it a little bit easier,but still a pain in the .
Than I tried boiling it on water,this made is considerably easier,but it would still give a bit of work to remove from 32.Them it came the solution.
I left it in a pan with cooking oil for about 10 minutes,it made a lot of smoke(strongly recommended that you do this outside).But the black stuff was COMPLETELY gone,I didn't even had to wipe the base,all I had to do was wash it thoroughly with water and soap to remove the oil film.

 

So what were your temp results (before n after)?

 

How come you couldn't just use a razor blade to remove the tape and sand the rest of the remaining residue off when you're lapping them? I have those same heatsinks with the black thermal tape. It probably takes no more than your fingers to remove the tape and 91% alcohol to remove the residue. If you want it totally clean, lap the blocks or use citrus cleaner. The way you did it is way too complicated and is a waste of time and resources.

 

I put the blocks I have in isopropyl alcohol, let it sit for about 10 minutes and then just wiped off the black tape with my fingers and a cloth.

 

I guess the Asians are the only ones with the brave enough fingertips, then. Have at you.

 

I didn't test it throughly with stock clocks as my purpose was overclocking. Now I'm using a flashed bios with 620/999/1550 with no overvolting,and running FurMark at Xtreme Burning,1366x768 and 8xAA for 10 minutes,with room at 27ºC, gives me 89ºC.
At stock clocks I did a few quick tests at about the same room temperature,I think the temps were around 83ºC,that is,when I managed to solve the thermal paste issue,before that I was getting temperature as high as 95 to 100ºC.

 

It's a waste of time if you follow all the steps,just go to the last. .Passing the razor through 32 heatsinks and removing the remainings(there is usually some remainings left after that) will take some time.
It's much faster doing that than any other method,even with chemical cleaners I think there will still some left on the heatsink,that is,with chemicals that will not damage the heatsink.

 

Very interesting, GamerBR. Did you have the burners on low?

 

I used a paint thinner. Left the blocks in it for 10 minutes. After the tape came of like wet paper. No need to cook/ heat etc.
This method worked both for the black tape and for the other "transparent" tape which I had on the longer blocks.

 

You mean the stove flame? I left it on high, but I guess low would work too. The only thing I would recommend that I didn't do is place a thick metal plate on the bottom of the pan to protect the heatsinks from excessive heat. From the 32 heatsinks, about 5 got that stains from 'rusted' copper on the base, it's ugly, but gives a neglible loss on performance.

 

Here is I managed to use 26 heatsinks(miscounted,I thought there were 28). I think that to attach them like this it's safer if you use a thermal adhesive like the ones from Arctic Silver.

 

Why didn't you pull the padding off the GPU pipe too?

 

I did initially,but as the heatsinks are to tall to be there,I reattached it. I actually added a few layers of scotch tape to add an extra pressure on the mounting over the GPU.

 

That's actually very good placement. You're getting maximum surface areas with that layout.

Now just drill out the false grill, and behold epic load temperatures.

 

I don't plan doing it for now, I don't think it makes a lot of different. Maybe on a boring day

I just did the 3dmark06 test, CPU@2550mhz and GPU@620/999/1550. Got 11006 points,looks good

 

?

Without hole.

With hole.

I will grant that the ambient temperatures between the two tests were very different. Picture one's ambient was in the range of 72-74F. Picture two's ambient was 67.1F.

 

I thought no one did a test with the only variable being the hole, now it looks like it's worth it.But all this improvement was with the grill you posted in the first post?It could have much more holes,or even better,just replace it with a mesh.

 

Yup. The first picture was with my copper and backpanel mod (it looked like swiss cheese for all the holes I put in it), along with a copper shim and new thermal pads.

The second picture is identical except for the removal of the fake grill and putting in an aluminum mesh.

(And I don't take credit for the mod, by the way. This is actually from Joker)

 

Did EIement get your backpanel yet? I have bets on his machine to run the fastest and the coolest.

 

I'll be shipping it to him once he gets back home.

Element has "The One" G51. Even though I'm not far off, all things considered.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQaCyJ87Dsw#t=2m28s

 

On a whim, I decided to punt my computer with the OCCT power supply test. Eek.

Ambient 67.7, and the test was about 15 minutes.

 

Now that's a real man right there, ladies and gentlemen.

 

Guys, are you having any problems running Crysis with the GPU overclocked? I can run Furmark,3dmark06 and Vantage,but Crysis Warhead will stop responding after some time playing. If you are not having any problems,or were having,what are the clocks on the GPU you are using to play it? I will lower the overclock only to play it.

 

If you haven't noticed, those aren't games. Your OC's are not stable.

 

At least I know my ceiling, under any amount of stress, seems to be 94C for the GPU. Still hotter than I would like, but hey, it's an OCCT test.



Anyone else brave enough?

 

You subjected your CPU to 95C? That can't be right, because if your CPU is 95C, it must mean your Northbridge is even higher. Death to Northbridge is death to Motherboard...

 

After i get the bottom panel mod ill run one, but i got a bad feeling im gona reach 100C even with it.

 

The temperature is on the left, not on the right.

 

Cores 1 and 2 maxed out at about 59, and hovered between the max and 58.

GPU reached a maximum of 94, and then my fan kicked into full-on balls-out cooling speed and brought it to 90.


And I should have dumped my HWM information. I forgot the HDD and THRM maxes. Couldn't have been higher than 77, though.

 

Wish I heard about OCCT before,I took all day long to find a clock in which I could run Crysis Benchmark for 25 loops, and now while testing the memory on the GPU I got errors within 2 minutes.
Let's see what's the best I can get now.

 

I'm almost done testing the overclock, after that I will test the real power consumption, measured with a kill-a-watt, while running the Crysis Benchmark and Power Supply test on OCCT, both on stock clocks and overclock.

I did I quick measurement before, and I don't know if this is already known, but this power supply has PFC, the power factor (W/VA) was 0.99.