Grab copper and a drill, now!

If it hits desktop gtx 280 performance levels I'll be very impressed.

 

imo, i dont think it will touch a GTX 280, maybe between a GTX 260 and GTX 275. how much die shrink is the new 5 series? cuz if it isnt much/any at all, then it will be hard to increase power without heat issue. we shall wait and see tho...

 

Well since i dont have much to do atm, wake up early and everybody still sleeping.... i went to play with my noob paint skills and tried to resize a G51j interior similar to what i had on my g51vx and copy/paste blocks to see an aprox of what you G51j owners can do. Remember im not a great photo editer so bare with me, also i cant see that good on the G51j spacing with the plastic so i tried to a little conservative there. Here is the end result.



I didnt do the videocard becuase its the same so you can fit 16 there. Now on the dual heatpipe upon resizing the picture so the scale would be similar to my G51VX, you can fit 18blocks there, im not sure you can fit dual on it, again im not sure about the spacing the picture was too dark to me to accurately say, but you have enough spacing to place the 90 degrees from what i did, i would probably try GamerBR slimer rectangular on the curved pipe as it probably fit duals of those (again not sure its just what i see). So in theory you can fit 16+18 = 34 of the small blocks, but i would probably order at least one or two of the rectangular ones and play what would allow to place the most blocks inside.

 

Ah, thanks for the pic Abula. Yeah that's what I'm estimating too (that's why I ordered 32 blocks in total). Don't want to buy another pack unless there's absolutely enough space for a couple more.

Either way, if my blocks don't come by mid December, I'm going to HK anyways, so I'll be picking some blocks then

 

How much do a pack of blocks cost, and mind telling me the site that you purchased them from?

 

Read through the thread, LockdownX.

 

Thanks for the pic Abula.

I just order 32 blocks also.

 

Thanks for the info, well 3 strips 1" X 8" of tape be enough for 32 blocks, and for anyone that purchased them there, aprox how long did it take to ship to the US, to New York in general?

edit:reason im asking is because I'm going on Vacation to LA on Dec.12

 

I was able to fit 28 normal square blocks on one strip, but you gotta be really careful with it. Ended up using 1 + 1/2 cause i messed like 3 blocks when placing so i just didnt had the patience and had 5 extra strips there, order of 3 strips should be enough for 60-70 blocks.

The tape might reach fast, as its a US supplier, maybe a week or two. The blocks took around a month for my order to arrive. So you might get lucky and get them before you leave, but its gona be close.

 

Ah yeah, been meaning to ask this in a previous post, but I completely forgot. Is there a purpose for the foam on the heat pipes besides supporting the back panel? and if I remove them, would it change anything?

 

Well im not completely sure if it will have any impact, my guess its just dampening for the backplate in case it flexes, but i haven't had any problems without it. I guess, if something were to flex it, then the heatsink will take a hit, but im careful with my laptop, but this is something you have to decide on your own.

 

Shipping from hong kong should take at least 3 weeks.

 

Just ordered the tape and blocks, i got 19-20 days before i go, if I don't get it by then I'll just have someone send them over

 

A few updates, it didn't pass Prime95 at 1.15V. It took about 4 hours to fail the first time,I tried again and it failed within 5 minutes(weird ). Then I raised it to 1.175V and it passed for 9 hours, I'm going to keep it that way.

 

Hmm. What's safe and happy temperatures for the northbridge?

 

80 Cs at max I would think...

 

Mine goes up almost at the same rate as the video card in 3d apps (havent seen 90s, but common 70s or even 80s in some stress tests).

 

You do realize adding copper blocks to the heat pipe is kind of self defeating as your just adding mass. There's very little airflow across the blocks so the added surface area isn't going to help much, as well the heatpipes work on the same principle as a fridge. In inside the pipe is a fluid that constantly vaporizes and condenses so you’re just throwing more heat back into the system where you want it the least and lowering the efficiency of the heatpipes. if you want any tangible results add a small 5v fan where the cpu cover is otherwise doing what you’re doing for maybe a 1-2* drop is kind of silly. But do realise your stealing airflow from other components anytime you mess with this cover (that’s why asus blocked it off) so you might cause your hard drives to run hotter. So really a nice laptop cooler is your best bet.

 

The RAM and WiFi will run hotter, but that's about it.

The HD has its own temperature sensor. I have never seen my HD go beyond body temperatures of around 36C.

 

The CPU cooler in the G51J is actually pretty good (a nice dual phase), the video card cooler is a little lacking but nothing major. I would’ve liked to seen a dual pipe setup so the coolant can be dual phase but it doesn't get hot enough to be unstable. I have a gen1 Asus G1, it has a much worse cooling setup with its 2 GHz coreduo T7200 / nvida 7700 and I've never had it crash. It still works fine 3 years later (reason enough for me to get the G51J). Asus seems to make a good product and put some thought into it. Don’t you think they’d have added some more / bigger slots and cheap copper sinks if that was all it took to lower the temp?

 

That's what I ask myself sometimes. Kondor got magnificent results from just removing that fake grill. So you have to wonder why the engineers didn't think of that.

And the blocks without an active cooler still work. The added blocks serve as additional mass for the heat from the GPU and CPU to drain into, and once the fan kicks in, airflow from the vents will pass over the blocks on its way to the radiator and further cool it.

Your mileage may vary, but did you see the results on the very first page? That was my incomplete mod, and my temperatures stabilized at 83 vs 90.5. With my more or less completed mod my GPU will not go over 86C max unless I'm running something ridiculously strenuous like the OCCT Power Supply test.

 

If I overclock the Asus G51j to the normal settings since they undervolt it with 32 blocks well that be safe?

 

man, why u guys never show me how can I get those copper and how do I stick those copper together with the surface ? show me some links pls, thanks

 

Read through the thread. The questions have been asked and answered plenty of times.

 

One, you never asked for them. In fact, this is the first time you posted in this thread. Two, read through the thread. Three, your mom. Four, we were never going to show you anyway.

 

The world is built on compromises. Asus shaved a lot of corners to get the G series notebooks operating with the minimum amount of cooling. You remind me of someone that recently got tempbanned from this forum. I believe his name is K-TRON. He also believed that adding more mass and drilling a few holes will yield little results. However, if done properly, the mod turned out to be effective in the double digits for most users. Unfortunately the G51 doesn't have the luxury of internal space or clearance, but what has been done so far is quite remarkable. The most prominent part of the G51 cooling overhaul is the removal of the fake fan grill that blocks off the main turbine.

This is the final design after months of revisions, http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=416414. This is the original post that started the revolution, http://forum.notebookreview.com/showpost.php?p=4737862&postcount=231. Ever since I purchased my M570TU back in late February and started the top secret KGB project in early March and publicly disclosed the first design in April, notebook modding hasn't been the same since. I have touched upon several users in the Clevo forum and several other forums sections including this one, and even this very thread, and have strived to push for a new age self-reliant cooling. I invite you, callen, to the unveiling of my upcoming project in a few weeks, the complete redesign of the M570TU cooling overhaul implemented onto my new W8x0CU. No notebook in existence will be able to touch the Siberian temperatures that have brought the notebook world into the cooling Renaissance.

 

beside the blocks which i just ordered one package of... is there a cooling fan mod for the Asus g60? I have the Asus g60 from bestbuy.... with windows 7 64bit home premium on it... I think i will place the 1st package of heat sinks on the gpu area as that seems to always have the highest temps... after seeing how that goes then i may upgrade the cpu to somethign faster... then the black plate off ebay to drill the holes into for the mods in


anyone have a spare cpu that has 6mb of cahce and 1ghz fsb

 

If you want to do a fan mod, then you can do so. You would be the first to attempt it though. Just find a low profile axial fan and solder it to an unused USB port to draw power from. But don't expect to see double digit drops in load temps unless you combine it with a thorough heatsink and ventilation mod.

 

What do you mean by fake grill?
any picture to show what you are talking about?

 

the first two images are pre-mod inside and out, the last image is post-mod.

 

A mass heat sink works temporally but would also block a lot of the little air flow already coming in, if its surface area your after then you need to find some really thin fined heat sinks, kind of like the old Intel PIII/4 cpu heat sinks or ThermalTake Volcano 7+.

By just having the opening at that point over the fan you’re just going to get air going through the opening then into the fan and out through the radiator. It would cool the cpu/gpu quite well but you'd be starving the rest of the laptop of any airflow. A thin fan over the main hard-drive drawing in air would be optimal as the air would help the peak CFM as well as flow over all the major components.

Not sure why you’re trying to draw parallels to me from some user who was banned, I’m just trying to help. I feel bad for people who make a mess of something they worked hard for.

 

I honestly don't think anyone cares what you're saying. Check back through the pages of this thread, look at the 10C+ lower max temperatures. There are high positive results for these modifications. If you're just going to troll this thread, without bringing anything to it but (false) criticisms for a project that gives the owner the result they desire without the cost/time/effort/knowledge required for a large scale cooling overhaul, then it'd most likely be best if you don't post anymore lest you want to be reported for blatant flamebaiting.

 

What I don't understand is why Callen persists in his hypotheses when the results are staring him in the face.

 

But the rest of the laptop doesn't need airflow...

 

K-Tro..errr callen, go away plz.

 

If you notice the first post had a 22*c difference in starting temperatures, that alone would make up for the difference. Afterwards people post up to a 6* difference at peak. A whole 6% difference for permanently modifying the laptop and possibly losing your warranty.

If you want to get mad or try and threaten me for stating an opinion in an open public forum that isn't a personal attack or inflammatory in any way then that's your right, silly as it maybe. Things are made better through discussion not just blindly following them. So can we move on to productive discussions instead of personal attacks like 15yr olds?

 

Well 6C might not be a lot to you, but for me it is, specially thinking that those 6 drops it from 90s to 80s. Maybe for a Clevo/Alienware user this mods are not that big of deal, but for us (G51 users) drops it into safer temp zones, and this is only 1 mod, im hoping the fake vent will drop it another 5, and probably undervolting 5-10... well im a bit optimistic but yea, thats what i hope for.

 

callen. You do have a good point, however it is irrelevant to notebooks. The caps, chokes, and MOSFET's on a notebook motherboard do not need cooling because the components they are directing power to don't draw as much compared to desktops, thus not getting hot. They are able to handle themselves just fine in a zero to low CFM environment. The mods done in this thread address the issue with the one component that does get close to a dangerous temperature, the GPU. From an engineering standpoint, extruded finned radiators are only effective if they are large. Also, because the inside of a notebook chassis is generally low CFM, the fins would need to be spaced farther apart from each other to compensate for low CFM. There isn't enough enough space inside of a G51 to work with so this is where we use cast heatsinks with a pinned arrangement to make up for less effective surface area with mass. This is the art of balancing aspects of thermal designs.

Part of the reason why the majority of the users in this thread aren't getting the results that they expect is because they have not implemented a full mod. Most of the users just slapped on a bunch of copper RAMsinks and expect it to do a lot. It's only part of the entire project and the best and only way to improve cooling is to satisfy all three major aspects of mechanical engineering in regards to air cooling: mass, surface area, ventilation. They have still yet to cut open the fake fan grill that blocks off the main fan and perforate their backplates.

Installing an axial fan isn't going to do much other than create more turbulence for the main fan, providing that the fake fan grill has not been removed. If it is removed, then it would bring some benefit, and is amplified by having more mass and surface area on the components. However, the problem is finding a place for the fan to reside. It cannot be mounted over or inside the HDD bays as they are isolated away from the motherboard. So the only place to put it is over the GPU, the CPU, the northbridge, or glued to the backplate.

 

I Still think that idea I proposed, cutting out the grill over the GPU and affixing a male+female connector to the hole+ a custom laptop cooler with twin 220mm fans would be the best option =P

 

But the test with the lower starting temperature was run for almost 100 seconds longer. Also, ten minutes gives a long enough trial starting temperature will be eliminated as a deciding factor.

But I can see your point. I should have run it for at least 20 minutes. Of course, I did not like seeing 90C on my graphics card for the first trial.

And to the people who run 90s, that means mid eighties. Seems worth it to me, no? I can overclock about 22% above the clocks Asus starts with, and once my fans kick in I drop to 78C in Furmark.

But like we're saying, the results speak for themselves. A mod gives cooler temperatures for the hottest components, the GPU. Whether or not the performance to labor/warranty-voiding ratio is "worth it" is entirely subjective. To you, apparently, it is not.

Others, such as myself and the vast majority of G50/51 users, disagree. The only person who shared your opinion on these mods was the cited K-Tron, whose answer to everything was "spend several hundred dollars and several days to fabricate something using expensive and training-intensive equipment".

 

And for the record, this is K-TRON when he posted his rant not too long ago. Comments are ordered from newest to oldest.

http://steamcommunity.com/groups/AsusGOwners/announcements/detail/91357284278485510

 

I thought just the copper mod doesn't void the warranty because you can always take it out if you are sending it for warranty. Am I wrong?

 

Well, I'm also talking about my drilling mod, too.

And Soviet, I never saw that on AGO. I have missed much.

 

Yeah copper doesn't void it, as for the drilling part that Forge mentioned, just get another backpanel and you'll be fine

 

Where do you get the backpanel? I can't find it anywhere on ebay.

 

http://estore.asus.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=4675&catid=606

 

Overvolting to 1v had zero effect on my max GPU clocks, its limited by something else. However, even at 1v and OC'd to 610/1000/1550 I didn't break 88C in [email protected] with the same settings as Forge but a 125Mhz higher memory OC, I managed similar to better temperatures in a 4 map campaign of l4d. never breaking 77C while he maxed at 79C. still no backplate mod, no copper mods. When I get my copper+Forge's old backplate, My laptop shall henceforth be known as The Golden One =D

 

One thing about the Asus store is that the back panel is never "Out of Stock" at least for the numerous times that I visited that site.

 

You know whats the worst thing.... I cant order one cause asus dont take international CC, so i lost one time to order it went out of stock in like 3 hours. 2nd time in 6 months, i manage to call a friend in US and ordered it, i was happy, when it arrive he got a second hdd bracket (we order one a week before), the panel went out of stock again, and so we just send a complaint, asus said they will ship it when it came back in stock, which i never saw... but my friend go it like 5 weeks ago, now my boss hasn't gone to LA to pick it up, so for 4 months im still dreaming, and i still have my doubts into if he received the correct part.

 

just got the same sink forge bought but it is aluminum. i just bought a pack for $2. will it help to decrease my temps?