*Official* NBR Desktop Overclocker's Lounge [laptop owners welcome, too]

I would just buy the water block dirt cheap and just ride it out and see what happens over the next month. You can get a bits power RGB for like 150 bucks. By that time you will have a better idea of what to do and also you would have replaced the 150 for the block and added a few more dollars just incase.

Basically that's what I did while I wait.

 

Is the shunt mod still with stock clocks? Edit - I see where it's over clocked.

LN2 3080
https://hwbot.org/submission/4553036_rbuass_3dmark___time_spy_extreme_geforce_rtx_3080_10075_marks

 

Only precised that the 3DMark TimeSpy Extreme stock is done STOCK. Not sure you'll gain 7% on top of stock clocks with shunt mod.

Main reason for the post... The previous 10% results over 3080, now is transformed into the better 16% above 3080 with stock clocks. The 10% higher scores from before is probably wrong. Maybe user errors. And the 16% gain we now see over 3080 also match the Geekbench database who show an increase of +15.7%.

 

Only if the original clocks were hindered by not having enough power to run correctly. (1% to7% better on speculation. )
Only time will tell if the numbers grow or not.

 

I guess this is where the "specialized" 3090's like the KP and HoF cards come into play. All of this news does point to Nvidia refreshing these cards next year.

 

Unless it is on Samsung 7nm/5nm, I'm not sure it is worth the specialization. You have a nearly 40% energy consumption increase for 6% gains. If that holds true, they are already pass the voltage knee and not a lot more will be gained, in theory. We're talking about 295x2 power draw here to get that last 6%. If we also assume the shunt mod will give an extra 6% to the 3080...

I need to review the number of shaders on the different dies to see how leaving more shades active will effect it.

The only thing that I know increased performance is the full fat GA100 at TSMC.

Either way, nvidia has shot its shot, now a month to wait...

 

Ok guys, I am about to delid my 7980XE.

Why do some people delid these CPU’s and use standard thermal paste, instead of liquid metal?

Also, I have pretty much convinced my self to order the G.Skill Trident Z Royal 4x8GB DDR4 4000 memory set with timmings of 15-16-16-36.

It is literally the fastest XMP quad channel set on the market right now. From what I’ve read hitting 4,200Mhz with stock timmings is very easy.

Now I just hope my 7980XE/X299 Dark plays well with this kit.

 

Getting her done!

 

You sure about that? And it does run slower on X299 platforms as well....
I may have time to check that theory before this board and cpu go out to it's new owner.

But on the Z490 With Patriot memory. All I did was set 4K, 15 15 15 36 in bios and restarted computer. it booted first try. And this is what I got without any fine tuning. The bios did the rest.
This is 129.99 bucks. It doesn't look as Shamancy as the Trident though, but pretty sure it can keep up.

 

@Mr. Fox

Your tool worked wonders!

I delidded and removed all of the excess residue. Sealed everything off with nail polish, I even re-sealed my IHS with black silicon and used the mobo socket to clamp it.

This is a realbench run with 0 AVX offset at 4.5Ghz @1.175V before and after delid. With a fresh spread of TFX thermal paste.

The Realbench before delid honestly reaches like 94C It jumped up to that at the 15 min mark. I never saw temps after delid reach more than 78C after 15 min. So just the package has dropped by 16C. The core to core temps have dropped even further than this.

my core to core temps are around 61-70C maximum. My CPU is much more stable, and requires less voltage due to not hitting 94+ Celsius like before.

So now I’m working on possibly hitting 4.7Ghz. On all cores. Based on how my temperatures look, I’d say I am already there.

 

You just made me 100% unsure about it haha.

I am extremely curious what you can achieve with those on your X299 setup.

 

Wow, I can run 4.6Ghz with no AVX offset on my 7980XE now.

 

I actually think my 7980XE is a good one, and gets by with very little voltage. It is so amazing what lower temps does to stability.. I'm glad I didn't cook it to death by continuously prolonging the DELID!

R20 run 4.7Ghz 1.215V max temp was 75C.

Man, its like I've got a brand new CPU!

 

I have opened this thing up to a whole new level! R20 at 4.8Ghz with only 1.270 Voltas! Not titan Voltas, but 1.270 CPU Voltas! lol

DELID is so cool on 7980XE!

 

Mirror mirror on the wall.....ha I'm not showing my face, I got 3 eyes & a uni brow!

 

Thanks for that testing, looks like you've really understood your card. You know what, given all that power throttling with a practical 320W long term limit I'm kinda thinking a 3070 would be quite cool if the 3070 had the 320W limit of your card.....because maybe they chose to limit it to that due to thermal dissipation reasons, and given the 3070 is still a card with potentially the same cooling system then really in practical terms it could have a limit very close to the 320W of the 3080, but of course it has a lot lower limit, but it would be cool if the 3070 had the same limit as the 3080:
https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/galax-geforce-rtx-3080-sg-review,5.html

I mean you want to be able to extract the max performance from the card, and it sounds like that might be more achievable with a power unlocked 3070 on air cooling, whereas according to @ajc9988 Der8auer only got 2% increase with 3080 with unlocked power limit - cooling limits of air......so a 3070 unlocked power card on air sounds like it could be the value king, although what kind of clocks could such a 3070 hit until it reached the limits of the voltage/frequency stability? Would we be talking say 2100Mhz on a power unlocked 3070 vs say 1950Mhz on a stock power 3070.....that would only be 8% more performance from power unlocking a 3070? And given the 3080 has 50% more cores than the 3070, I'm postulating that it's unlikely that power unlocked 3070 is gonna make up much of that difference. Just a stream of thought as I'm aware I've contradicted myself through that paragraph as I thought it through! Y0u'd probably need around 2500Mhz (or more) on a 3070 to get within 10-15% of a 3080 by some very rough/quick calculations, and that's not likely at all (voltage/frequency stability) no matter how much the 3070 is unlocked.

 

4.8Ghz is super stable on my 7980XE, look at these temps on a (18) core at 4.8Ghz.

 

Well I just bought an RTX 3080 from one of the few places that is accepting pre-orders here in the UK, in fact I bought it for £700, so that's £50 more than what I was initially expecting or committing to, but I figured prices weren't gonna come down for months so why not get one now! I've got no idea when they're getting stock in, although I think I read somewhere that they have to deliver within 30 days, but don't know if that is rumour or not (wasn't on the store's website). I got this one:
https://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/TUF-RTX3080-10G-GAMING/overview/

It's reviewed here on Guru3d and also at Hexus, and is one cool & quiet running card and it was running a sustained 340W in this test as you can see in the sensors screenshot:
https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/asus-geforce-rtx-3080-tuf-gaming-review,7.html
https://hexus.net/tech/reviews/graphics/145420-asus-geforce-rtx-3080-tuf-gaming-oc/?page=10

That is also called an OC version, but I'm not 100% certain I've bought the OC version, at the moment it looks like there's only one version of the TUF Gaming from the research I've done, so I think I've got the one in the review above, it's the same cooling system though.

It also happens to be the exact same length and is no wider than my Zotac GTX 1070 AMP edition, so it should fit with my case airflow mods perfectly....it's 2.7 slot rather than 2 slot so it'll be a little thicker but that doesn't really change anything.

There were quite a few cards that were more expensive than this Asus TUF Gaming card I've just bought, so this was one of the cheaper ones, which I'm a bit surprised about considering it's performance & cooling capabilities.

EDIT: Ah, there is an OC version of the TUF Gaming card, but I've bought the non-OC version, here's the OC version:
https://www.asus.com/uk/Graphics-Cards/TUF-RTX3080-O10G-GAMING/specifications/
It runs a higher core clock but is the same cooling system from the description & pics, I'm assuming that once I max out the power slider that both cards will end up at the same allowable max wattage allowed, but that's my assumption based on the reviews we've seen.
And the following is the OC version and standard version that I bought side by side so you can see the differences:
https://www.asus.com/Product-Compare/?products=qd2z2fai4rv29irz,sllsnshqqjg0x9oj&b=0

EDIT #2: This Asus TUF Gaming is £200 cheaper than @Talon 's EVGA Ultra!?
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/evga...dr6x-pci-express-graphics-card-gx-32e-ea.html

EDIT #3: A Polish review of the non-OC version that I'm buying (all prior reviews I listed were for the OC version), still got the great low temps & low noise:
https://www.purepc.pl/test-asus-geforce-rtx-3080-tuf-gaming-niereferencyjny-ampere

 

Quick note on Der8auer's score, that was right after the shunt mod, no OC, auto fan. So he would get more out of the card than 2%.

Other than that, anyone considering a 3070, after they lied about the 3080 numbers, should auto wait for reviews. Further, about two weeks after release, AMD has their event. Might then be worth waiting for nvidia to respond. October 28 is their event.

And with all this cold crap going on, who knows if we'll have Halloween events, so...

 

Turns out I didn't wait for anything, I bought the 3080 in my previous post! I couldn't see how the 3070 was gonna be a value option given that 3080 is not 50% more expensive yet has 50% more cores, I couldn't see the value in the 3070.....plus the 3080 is an even bigger upgrade to what I have now, plus is available before the 3070 (hopefully, ha!).

I don't think I'll be doing a shunt mod on my RTX 3080 until after the warranty runs out....also because I doubt I'll need the extra performance for 1080p at that point either.

 

@Johnksss What is your opinion on Dominator Platinum DDR4? I’ve found a kit local near me 4x8GB DDR4 4000Mhz C19 with the light bar upgrade and both fans $225 bucks.

I’d rather buy a matching 4x8 set for best possible chance of stable 4000Mhz+ overclocking on X299 with 32GB and using all (4) dimms, instead of buying (2) 2x8 sets for less money I totally understand the silly price on the Trident Z Royal 4000Mhz C15 set. I suppose you are paying for maximum 4x8GB speed right out of the box with minimal to no tuning at all, Hit XMP and go.

 

Never used them so no real opinion on those.

Honestly, one of the best people to speak on memory is @Falkentyne . He can get far more in depth than I would ever be possible to do.

 

One more with not much gain from the shunt mod. Nvidia try make it more difficult for each new gen cards.

 

The card is just temperature limited though right? I didn’t watch the whole video lol.

 

The FTW3 is not available yet, at least not widely available to anyone.

I have the XC3, and at this moment I am actually likely to return it to Microcenter at the end of my 15 days or before if I can grab a TUF from Asus as it has a proper power limit of 375w. The XC3 is locked down at 320w which is ridiculous as the XC3 Ultra I bought is more expensive. I figured EVGA would do right and match Asus and they still might, but I'm not going to chance it. Sure the card runs decent at 320w but it really locks down any overclocking fun and causes clocks to fluctuate in games under load at 4K res. Unfortunately for me that TUF was available to me at Microcenter that monring but I went with the EVGA as I figured it would be the better card based on previous experience. I've reached out to EVGA and inquired about the low power limit and it's going unanswered. I take the silence as confirmation they're not going to do a thing about it.

Alternatively I'm being offered $1200 for the XC3 locally due to this crazy shortage.

 

If you read his comment, he fixed the shunt mod, it's now working and expect a video soon!

Nah it's power limited right now.



They're using a 900w custom vBIOS from EVGA, only for them. Back to the same old **** where only the big YouTubers and special overclockers get access to keep their names at the top of the list.

 

He said the shunt mod technically work but... From his newest video (2.30). Will need a updated firmware.

 

Look at his pinned comment.

 

So, just taking you since you linked the video, but for the community:

Port Royal - 14,069 (250 Core/1050 mem). I forgot what stock was to compare the OC to. Joe likes to run Port Royal.

Edit: that is around 2350 or 2370 MHz.

 

Hey guys, maybe someone could help me. I restarted my PC today to adjust my bios settings. And I cannot get in to Windows, or any boot device whatsoever. My system has been running all night at 4.8Ghz with 1.27 volts, very reliably too.

After powering my system on the windows spinning circle will just spin and spin until the screen goes black “It doesn’t say No signal” only grayish black screen With monitor still on. Almost as if it is going to display something.

^Same thing happens while attempting boot to my USB windows 10 installation thumb drive.

I can get in the bios just fine. No codes, everything seems ok. But, my PC cannot boot to any external USB, M.2 or HDD, SSD whatsoever.

I have tried resetting bios, I have tried removing ram, I have tried all (3) different bios 1,2 and 3. I have removed the CPU and reseated it twice, I have moved my GPU several times to different PCI-e slots. Everything looks great in the bios. But, I simply cannot boot to a drive lol. All of my storage drives are seen in the bios, CPU temps are great, all of my memory is available, even my thumb drive too.

Did my X299 Dark Motherboard just die? I have been experiencing BSODS here and there and a very slow decline In stability since I have owned this motherboard pretty much. Leading me to a new memory set.

I bought this X299 dark as a untested motherboard for dirt cheap $100 bucks on eBay. It has been running ok for about a week or two.

I did literally just delid my CPU yesterday. But, I did it well. And It could be a coincidence. I sealed all caps with clear polish, applied LM, and resealed my IHS.

I’m lost..Help is very much appreciated.

 

Yeah, same crap, new generation. It sucks and it's not right. It also nullifies and delegitimizes any "victory" by the chosen elite. They are not really accomplishing anything through knowledge, talent or skill. They're merely recipients of special treatment and accomplices in a publicity stunt.

Yes, that is always true. Anyone that thinks doing a shunt mod without a corresponding change in firmware is going to be useful is kidding themselves. It may eliminate a power limit at a hardware level but the crippling by firmware limits doesn't allow the hardware to be all it can be. There might be a modest improvement but results will be dramatically muted by the cancerous firmware.

 

So, is my motherboard dead? Or is my 512GB NVME dead?

Here’s a video of me 100% exhausted after troubleshooting this thing. I was up all night bench marking it at 4.8Ghz. I continued to let it run until later this afternoon, a restart was its demise.

It will not boot to any source whatsoever. I’m either bios or nothing.

I appreciate the help. I think I should go ahead and order a brand new X299 Dark right now. So, I’m curious to hear what you guys say.

 

Is secure boot on?

 

No it isn’t.

 

And I take it you do not have a PCIE addon card for nvme drives?

And nothing in the bios says that the nvme is turnt off?

 

The only time I’ve had Windows not boot like that is when I had to turn on CSM in the BIOS.

Once in BIOS/UEFI, navigate to the “BOOT” section. Then go down to the “CSM Configuration” heading and press enter, or click on it with your mouse.
a. For Windows 10: Set “Launch Storage OpROM Policy” to “UEFI”. Then set “Launch CSM” to Enable or Disable and see if it boots.

 

Haven't tested the new version. I wonder if they finally got it to work correctly.

Edit. It looks like they finally have fixed it. https://www.catzilla.com/download


The old with newer drivers...


https://hwbot.org/submission/455613...hics_520_(mobile)_3088_marks?recalculate=true


https://hwbot.org/submission/455614...hics_520_(mobile)_2181_marks?recalculate=true

 

Without a power mod I am noticing the same things this guy is seeing. I also noticed I was able to achieve nearly the exact same performance within 1-2fps at 50-60w less with an undervolt. An undervolt with liquid cooling might be the way to go after you flash a higher tdp vbios if we can eventually. This might be the first card I put under a full block.

 

Just a m.2 ssd, that is the only drive I use.

I have tried it. Bios default is on UEFI after resetting bios. And I have tried enabling or disabling CSM Options without any luck.

Only thing I can think of, is to buy another motherboard?

If a m.2 ssd is bad would a system fail to boot to a USB installation windows media?

Ok so I am going to order a brand new X299 Dark board on eBay for like $250, and some good samsung B-Die 4x8 memory.

My budget has been knee capped, due to possibly having a bad board.

I hope it is the board!

 

Have you played with the settings regarding the PCIe lanes? Let's assume the reason it is black screen without disconnected isn't with the CPU but the PCIe settings. I don't know if you saved your settings in bios and went to default (first thing I'd try). But maybe something with how the lanes are, the voltage related to system agent or DMI link, etc., are too low for your OC causing an error, etc.

Edit: btw, first thing to always do is try stock settings by returning the bios to default. Just save the settings in a mem slot to try again if it works after restoring defaults.

Edit 2: I noticed you mentioned what BIOS default was. Just trying to make sure.

Also, what GPU are you using? There could be some odd interaction with it. Do you have any other GPUs handy?

Edit 3: also sometimes USB issues can block booting, as another avenue.

 

I've never seen that happen. In the past, you could boot the media with no drives present at all. You don't have any other drives laying around to test?

 

I have been running the same setup for a couple weeks now. And before that I used a different X299 motherboard. I’ve never had a issue with my current GPU.

I have reset all of my bios settings, and I don’t have another SSD on hand. The video card is a 1660Ti, which has also worked just fine.

I have been getting some BSODS with my system randomly before all of this happen though. It would pass realbench for however many hours. And I would be online doing school work. “Typing” and I would get a BSOD of memory management. So, I thought my memory was possibly incompatible, or maybe my motherboard is failing.

I’m not gonna lie, my motherboard is a piece of crap. It has a missing debug led display, and it was purchased as not working or as is untested on eBay. But, I have been running it fine for a few weeks now.

Also, my default bios settings worked great, and I could literally boot straight in to Windows without any changes needed in the bios for storage, boot devices, or anything else.

The only changes I would ever make in the bios is to increase my multiplier for the CPU and to enable XMP and adjust timmings manually. I never adjust anything else.

My beep noise does sound different. When you power on a X299 Dark is sounds just like a Morse code message or something like that. And now it sounds like a totally different beep pattern “Very off beat” . It throws no codes or issues.

At this point I’m ready to pull the CPU/GPU and start over entirely. Ordering a new board, new memory, and a new SSD. This should eliminate several things.

 

I just purchased a brand new X299 Dark on eBay and I paid extra for overnight shipping.

Ordering memory next. “Still searching”

 

Wait on throwing the memory or SSD. I know you are frustrated, but the beep codes correspond to specific errors. And it changing to a different pattern says it is telling you of another issue.

Further, it could just be the board. It also could be memory voltages, timings, or even the SA and IO voltages.

Overall, I'd be find with you for sure chucking the board. But the rest, unless you know the component is bad...

https://www.evga.com/articles/24.asp
https://www.evga.com/support/faq/FAQdetails.aspx?faqid=57715

Look up EVGA bios beep codes for even more, but those should give you a start.

 

I sure don’t.

I just bought a brand new one, and I’ve had it overnighted. I have to buy new memory anyways, because I sold my current set on eBay. And my memory is a matching 4x8 set. But, 2 sticks are Hynix, and the other 2 sticks are Samsung. They barely run 3400Mhz C17 on any platform as I’ve had this set through a couple builds.


I’ve found a 4133Mhz Gskill 4x8 B-Die memory set that is even on my boards QVL list. So I will probably go with these.

I had a weird suspicion about my SSD. So, I removed my Samsung PM 991 SSD. And here’s what happen!

I have a bad nvme m.2 drive.

 

Well at least you found your culprit.

 

yeah but I just spent $378 dollars on a motherboard lol. And now he won’t cancel.

He canceled the order and refunded in full.

What a sure way to scare the hell out of your self. I just delidded my 7980XE day before yesterday. And the thought of a damaged CPU can only creep in to the back of your mind as you troubleshoot a new problem.

But, the BSODS make sense. I think my SSD has been slowly failing me.

Problem solved, bad M.2 SSD!

 

Now get some sleep!

 

Hey guys, is this Samsung B-Die?

They sell one kit, that I know is B-Die with timmings of 19-23-23-45 it cost $319.99. But this other kit is $40 dollars more expensive at $359.99 and uses the same timmings of the Corsair vengeance pro 4600Mhz kit.

So this is B-Die right?

https://www.newegg.com/corsair-32gb...4 4000&cm_re=DDR4_4000-_-20-236-580-_-Product

 

So I ordered (2) Intel 665P’s in 512GB. Going to run a 1TB Raid setup. Looking forward to the speed boost.

PS: I hate memory shopping, I am so indecisive on what I want.