*Official* NBR Desktop Overclocker's Lounge [laptop owners welcome, too]

So I tested my 7980XE bone stock, just to see the affect of GPU temperatures under load, and while idling at 3.4 to 4Ghz my CPU is idling around 15-18C per core. But my ambient temperature is 20.5C. How can my CPU idle below ambient? Is this just a sensor thats way off? Pretty sure that’s not possible to go below ambient.

 

Temperatures will fluctuate, between deltas. Hence, outside temps can be 25C but 20C with wind chill added into the equation. The sensors on our boards aren't as accurate as K type thermocouples, so they will be off a few degrees.

 

Yes, that is spot on. Software sensor readings are frequently off by a little bit. Sometimes the polling rate does not update the information fast or frequently enough, and that can throw off the sensor readings even more. You can easily see examples of this if you open more than one monitoring application, like AIDA64, HWiNFO and/or CoreTemp and watch the numbers. They will sometimes be the same, but will often be different as temperatures fluctuate and one piece of software updates sooner or later than the other(s).

While it is generally true you cannot be colder than ambient, there can be a small (very small) element of evaporation effect that will take the temperature a degree or two below ambient if the humidity and air movement through the radiator are conditionally ideal. This would work on the same principle as air conditioning or a swamp cooler and there is enough variance in sensors (software, hardware, etc.) that it could be difficult to measure because the difference is so small. In most circumstances the temperatures will be the same or higher than ambient temperatures depending on the degree of load and the amount of heat the parts are generating.

 

Alrighty then. Well My 3rd 360MM radiator will be here tomorrow, and my EKWB D5 pump too. So I am curious to see where my temps get down to. I am not expecting much improvement. But then again, I am using a really cheap $20 dollar chinese water pump currently, so maybe the greater pressure of a quality pump, and 3rd radiator will help more than I think?

 

A better pump is going to do your loop a whole lot better than a third radiator, unless you are going for lower fan noise. For example, my single 360 60mm radiator with push/pull setup gave me better scores with my 3960X than most OC'ers with two or three radiator setups. I have a great EK D5 pump/res combo though.

I suggest you do a test, with the new pump with and without the third radiator. My best educated guess, you are going to see between a 3 to 5C drop with the new radiator under full load.

 

Since I switched over to a spare EVGA CLC 280 I've had since last year during a new (new defined as pulling down all the stray EVGA components I have on my shelves) EVGA heavy buildout, my 9900k p0 is running amazingly cool and I've been able to push my 9900k to 5.2 all cores and running the adaptive run I did last year where CPU thermal throttling to 100 quickly would reduce clocks on a Realbench 2.56 run I can now run it full adaptive 1.388 pull under load and top out at 89-90.

Problem is my VRMs are overheating now which was never a problem before on the EVGA Z390 FTW since CPU thermal throttling would beat it to the punch quickly. HWinfo shows VRMs are hitting ~96 and then they throttle back to 92-93....get back to 96....rinse repeat clocks as expected drop to ~3.6ghz then shoot back up to 5.2 when the temps drop. CPU temps are holding steady at 87-90. Short runs on CB15 and CB20 are no problem since the VRMs don't get a chance to overheat.

This might be a combination of switching from the extra air flow of the NH-D15 over the VRMs in unison with the new steady 5.2 clocks along with this being a refurbished Z390 sent to replace my defective Z390. Or it could just be worse/failing VRMs.

CPU actually pulls less with RB 2.56 (~188w) vs CB20 (~220w) @ 5.2 adaptive.

I never logged my VRM temps on my original board since it was never a problem before CPU thermals ran amuck.

 

Yeah my performance right now with my (2) slim EKWB 360 rads is pretty darn amazing. My 2080Ti running a steady 2,130Mhz gets no hotter than 38C max at 1.093MV W/ 380 watt Galax bios and 8 ohm shunts stacked and soldered. I am running push/pull on both 360 radiators. I was originally going to run quieter fans, but I decided against it. The only thing that's really loud is my cheap water pump. "It rattles and vibrates like crazy" this is what pushed me to invest some money in to a good pump.

I was thinking maybe 3-5C. And that would be perfect honestly! I am trying to keep my 2080Ti under 36C, because then I can manage higher frequencies in games. It is amazing what my GPU can do when it runs 35-36C. But once it gets above that, its like stability kinda goes out the window. And then I have to resort to 2,130.

It may seem silly, but chasing these tiny numbers is so much fun haha.

 

I saw also a bit lower Cpu temp while the Cpu run idle with all thermal mods, max fans with fan+1 and my modded U3. Both CCC and Core temp showed the same temps. So there is some truth in this even though it sounds unlikely


http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...cussions-lounge.794968/page-360#post-10458316

 

I thought this was pretty funny so I decided to share.

I was looking at Silicon lottery binning statistics on a 7980XE and I wanted to test my CPU.

My 7980XE is delidded, lapped, and on a custom loop with (2) 360MM radiators. So
my temperatures are really good. I wanted to see how it does compared to their results.

Here is silicon lotteries results.

7980XE 4.10GHz 3.80GHz 3.60GHz 1.075V 100%
7980XE 4.20GHz 3.90GHz 3.70GHz 1.087V Top 89%
7980XE 4.30GHz 4.00GHz 3.80GHz 1.100V Top 72%
7980XE 4.40GHz 4.10GHz 3.90GHz 1.112V Top 35%
7980XE 4.50GHz 4.20GHz 4.00GHz 1.125V Top 8%
7980XE 4.60GHz 4.30GHz 4.10GHz 1.137V Top 2%

I always thought my CPU was good because it could pass realbench with NO AVX offset for however long at 4.6Ghz with 1.203V. Or 4.8Ghz at 1.280V is also stable.

But, apparently it is just average..

I failed the top 2% [email protected]

I failed the top 8% [email protected]

I failed the top 35% [email protected]

No further testing has been done. It doesn’t bother me, I just always thought my CPU was good. But apparently it’s just mediocre average!

My cpu still runs 4.6Ghz 100% stable as low as 1.181V I just tested again today. That’s the best I could manage at a stable 4,600Mhz. It has been like this since I have owned it. So no degradation or anything.

 

Big boy pump and baby res! It looks kinda funny but it works!

 

When the 3070 arrives two days early for pickup.....All you KP and 3090 owners....BEWARE.

 

Hey! Wanna race? lol.

 

So I went ahead and installed the new pump. I couldn’t quite get my 3rd rad in today. Because the company I bought from decided not to put my tubing and fittings in the shipping box. So I had to get my system together asap. Can’t wait unfortunately.


Anyways. I love the new pump!

I will say this, it’s absolutely worth watercooling a 2080Ti, if you have a 2080Ti! You can squeeze a solid 30% performance VS a stock 2080Ti numbers in these reviews that they compare against 3080’s and 3070’s. Which is just so silly.


Yep let’s go another 2 years!

Oh and a D5 on full speed is literally silent! And it flows just tons and tons and tons of water!

 

Very nice build bro. Where are you going to put the third 360 rad in that case?

 

Your heavily OC'd 2080ti vs my stock 3070.....nail biter eh?

I was wondering the same thing.....

 

I am going to cut and mount it to the plastic PSU shroud in the bottom of my case.

I am still deciding what fan direction I will run. I think I will intake air from the PSU shroud, and let it blow in to the case.

This is a 20MM thick ultra slim XSPC 360MM rad that I bought just to go down in that spot. I will most likely only run pull with the fans. As I am running out of room for push/pull.

 

Mild "ode to EVGA" esque build.....
I really amped up the RBG for @Mr. Fox because I know he loves it




EVGA CLC 280 AIO temps (5ghz @ 1.312 AVX = 0):

 

"Let there be light..."

That looks really nice, bro. I also love the EVGA themed setup.

 

https://hwbot.org/submission/4657461_papusan_gpupi___32b_geforce_rtx_2080_ti_4min_24sec_212ms/


Edit.
https://hwbot.org/submission/4657495_papusan_3dmark___port_royal_geforce_rtx_2080_ti_10373_marks

 

You know, while this score certainly isn’t ground breaking or anything. It really is absolutely amazing for air cooling!


I’m doing around 10,600+ as a daily on water with shunts soldered and 380 watt Galax bios normal ambients. So your score is really good for air.

These cards are very fast. I remember when my 2080Ti FE was on air, I could manage maybe around 10,150 in port royal. “That was a stretch”

It would break 17K timespy graphics on air though. Which I thought was awesome.

 

I don't know where it will stop on Air.Probably close. But with the 3770K and this card on Futuremark leaderboard I'm already nr 1 with this very weird combo

https://hwbot.org/submission/4657505_papusan_3dmark___port_royal_geforce_rtx_2080_ti_10474_marks

 

Hi sorry your cards shunt modded KPE, or XOC? what kinda chiller?

thanks

 

Nope. Stock vBios and air. In a ugly old small chassis from laste decade. And with 3770K


Nr.8 on the bot. But still long way up to Johnksss
https://hwbot.org/submission/4657536_papusan_gpupi___32b_geforce_rtx_2080_ti_4min_21sec_169ms



Edit. Saw the reply was for Fox, LOOL

 

Hi. Kingpin with hybrid cooler running as cold as I can get it.

 

Yes, without chilled water, 2175 on core is about as high as you can sustain. If it goes above 45°C then you're screwed. But, for 2175 your scores are exactly where they should be. Perfect.
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/56825820


I just ran that on the CPU binning bench, not my chilled water monster. All mid-range gamer-boy parts except for the 2080 Ti FTW3. I could run it at 2250 all day on the other setup, but definitely not with the Hybrid parts and 120mm radiator, LOL. Just not enough water or radiator to keep it above 2175 or below 45°C under load. Doesn't matter how high the power limits are, it's not going there because 45°C is too "hot" thanks to the Green Goblin's dumbass algorithms. But, that's OK. If I could, the 650W PSU wouldn't be able to handle it.



This is more than adequate for my daily driver, work, gaming, CPU binning workhorse. I don't need it to do more and don't care if it doesn't. I have the other setup for doing more. I hardly ever use the turdbook any more. Maybe 4 or 5 hours max in the last month, and then usually only while watching TV in my recliner or "dropping the kids off at the pool" .

 

I added some pretty pastel coolant to my loop and it’s so foamy. Why is this? My line going back in to the reservoir is not submerged “There is not a tube”, is that the issue?

Also, when I turn my system off it usually overflows out the fill port a little lol. Mostly foam overflow


Any ideas? Is this from contamination in the loop? Or is it possibly sucking air when I power off the system?

No leaks anywhere.


The inlet that returns back in the the reservoir is a bubble blower for sure. I see water going back in the reservoir rapidly with a bunch of bubbles resurfacing. Is this all from lack of a inlet tube that is not submerged?

I had the same issue with distilled water. it just didn’t create foam, because it couldn’t create foam like this coolant does.


I really appreciate the help guys. System temps are great. But this is a nightmare lol. I am about to just flush it all out and use water again. screw this! haha.

 

What you are describing is fairly common. Using any kind of colorant or pre-colored liquid is going to have some degree of that foaming initially but it will go away after a day or two. Air bubbles in the loop after a system flush cause most of it, but it happens a little bit even when adding dye to an existing loop. While they look nice, the bigger issue is the staining of components and debris that collects in your water block fins. And, the amount of flushing and manual disassembly and elbow grease required to totally eliminate all traces of it can be tedious. If you run dye or colored coolants for a long time the staining can be nearly irreversible if you are using clear plexi parts. In addition to durability, this is another benefit to using glass reservoir tubes instead of plastic. Every plexi reservoir tube I have seen ends up having microscopic cracks, fissures, scratches or discoloration through normal use. So, buying only glass-tube reservoirs is the only option that makes good sense in the long run. Unless you drop one and break it, the glass tubes last forever.

A few pages back I posted some photos of the inside of my Optimus Signature V2. After taking time to think about the black stuff, I am pretty certain that it came from the black dye I used. It looked fantastic, but as I was adding it in the back of my mind I had an inner voice telling me that it was a stupid decision that I would come to regret. Should have listened to that inner voice.

The best thing to use is plain old distilled water with a biocide additive or ethylene glycol. If you like red, blue or green, automotive antifreeze also works perfectly. If you don't want red, blue or green, I believe you can buy a bottle of clear ethylene glycol and mix it with distilled water. That eliminates the need for using biocide or a silver kill coil.

 

I had accumulated a little pile of EVGA stuff, motherboard was already EVGA. Found an open box cheap DG-77 on Amazon warehouse. Found out why when I got
it and had to repair the RGB board.

I do know unless something drastically changes, air coolers are officially on backup status.

I guess my next step down the road will be some custom water.

3070 @ 4k Ultra 10 RT Max is giving me similar frame rates as my 3090 did in my target range (60fps) and similar lows.....albeit in many spots the 3090 was pushing out over 200fps (yowza).

Thanks bro! If I could have sourced an EVGA FTW3 3070/3080 I would have went with that for the complete EVGA look (and do a vertical mount), but the 3070 FE will do.

 

I almost feel like it doesn’t work as good. My idles temps are up a a couple celsius. And last night my 2,130Mhz clocked down to 2,115Mhz in cyberpunk 2077 which has never happen to me before.

When I first added the coolant and filled it up, it wasn’t like this at all. But now it’s just crazy.

I feel like my PC is pumping a frothy smoothie through it.


I am just about ready to flush with distilled, and just run clear.

 

@Mr. Fox

So I think I figured out the problem with all my micro bubbles and foam.

My reservoir is tiny first of all, and my pump
is on full speed.

So my pump is spinning so fast, that’s it sucking all of the bubbles from the return line before they can even surface inside of the reservoir. So it’s kinda like a endless cycle.

I read about a similar issue, and he had to reduce pump speed. I don’t have a submerged return line so I think that’s why I have getting these little bubbles. And then the pump just sucks them all up before they can even surface and pop.


I will get a better reservoir.

 

The larger the better. I use XPSC 270mm reservoirs. The tubes are glass. All D5 pumps are basically the same, so if you have D5 pumps already they will work if you buy a reservoir and pump housing. Most D5 pumps are made by the same company and companies like EK, XSPC, Swiftec, Koolance and others just put their decals on them. Very similar to Asetek AIO pump and retention hardware setups. Most are either made by Asetek, or require a license from Asetek to manufacture them.

 

I flushed out the loop. And watched idle temps drop 3C right before my eyes just by removing the pastel coolant. Not sure what’s wrong with that stuff. But it sucks! Fortunately I got it flushed out before any debris or clogging damage was done.

I am swapping over to clear tubes right now. And I will more than likely just run my own mixture of it. It says it’s ready for use. But it is thick like milk.

Also trying to figure out where to put a 3rd 360

 

You can mount all three side-by-side on the opposite side of the case on the outside.

 

Win 10 20H1

https://hwbot.org/submission/4658623_papusan_vrmark___blue_room_geforce_rtx_2080_ti_5701_marks


https://hwbot.org/submission/465865...1080p_xtreme_geforce_rtx_2080_ti_10538_points


https://hwbot.org/submission/465865..._8k_optimized_geforce_rtx_2080_ti_6182_points

 

So, do you love it?

 

OMG guys. What have I done? I went full on gamer boy! Haha.

So I heavily Heavily Heavily diluted down this Pastel coolant. So it is still solid in color, but much thinner! It was mixed very thick out of the bottle.

Now my temps are normal, and I can look cool too!








upload images

 

The bucket hang ftw.....

 

I've never seen that method of filling a PC cooling system before. I wasn't sure what to make of it. I've also never seen a bucket with a hose on the bottom like that. I could see multiple uses for that, many of which are not related to computers.

@tps3443 - where'd you get that bucket, bro?

 

Go on amazon.

And search for “Enema Bucket”

lol.

I got this one for just a few dollars on amazon. It even allows me to turn the water flow off while filling my PC. So I can continue running the pump without the reservoir going dry, and needing to turn my PC off.

So if I want to my flush my PC, I hang the bucket and remove a G1/4 plug on my GPU. And just let the PC run liquid in to another container. And it fills, and drains continuously.


It works great for flushing all sorts of systems I suppose lol.


Anyways, I tore my 2080Ti block apart last night and it looked super clean! I didn’t see anything within my CPU block either, but I didn’t take it apart. So I assumed if the GPU was spotless just a flush is good enough.

 

Crysis Remastered got a new patch with more eye candy. Looks even better than before.

Processing is complete up to 1080p60, but YouTube is still processing higher resolutions.



Interesting that a standard 3090 has a TGP of 350W and this game is constantly pushing up to and beyond 400W with no overclock. It would likely be a disappointing experience running a GPU with a 350W or lower power limit. (Of course that would be true under any circumstances, but this is just one real world example of why it would be disappointing. It always sucks having PC parts that are firmware crippled.)

Probably too soon to see evidence of the issues. Check again in 3 to 6 months and you're sure to find some sludge gumming up the works. That's just the nature of colored PC coolant. There's nothing wrong with that if one is aware of the trade-offs and is willing to do a little bit of extra maintenance to accommodate it.

 

Welp, the voltage monitoring on my Maximus VIII just crapped the bed (reads that the CPU voltage is 4V, which if true would be instant death, so it is a resistor in a specific circuit that likely went out), so I'm replacing it with a 10700KF and an Aorus Z470 Ultra. Not too bad for $550 for that combo.

AMD has zero availability and AM4 is long in the tooth (although I could get a better X570 for the price I paid for the Aorus). Same with the announcement on the pricing on the 11th gen for Intel (talk about not having a clue). Then again, they have been moving black friday like volume since Q2 2020, so not like we will have good stock on anything anytime soon.

But this is the cheap replacement to upgrade the old 6700K system, so not worried. I'm still waiting for Zen 4 to upgrade the zen 1 1950X server (make them pay for removing 16-cores from the HEDT lineup and jacking MB prices at the same time AND requiring a new socket, so I promised I would not replace it until Zen 4 on a new socket with DDR5).

At least I will have new toys to play with....

Also, if anyone finds a 3080 at a reasonable price, let me know.

 

Yeah I was just checking my loop because I was running straight distilled water without any fancy additives. It has been running for about 2-3 months now. But everything looks clean. I still heavily diluted the coolant with distilled water to the point where is was almost transparent.

So everything still runs cool and I get full pump speed RPM’s. And hopefully minimal gunk after a year of use. And no serious staining.

Anyways, I flush it frequently. So hopefully I can avoid tearing down blocks again in the future.


I have flushed it yet again after playing around with colors.

I tried Yellow, Orange,Red, and black, them flush throughly and back to my diluted down green! it is very fun and pretty easy to swap colors out.








people encouraging people

 

That is one thing I miss, not being able to see the cooling loop. But, on the upside, my temps are great for non-sub-ambient with the server rack...

 

Yeah it’s pretty cool. I just added another radiator “3 360MM radiators in total”. I dunno how well it work like this though. But some water cooling bug bit me for sure.

 

I've got a 20" fan pushing through 4x480mm rads for 3 systems, going to be 4 systems soon. Being outside the case, low or high on the fan, I don't see a difference in max temp (meaning I've reached the diminishing returns level of water cooling).

Inside a case, it is different and more Radiator can help, but there is a point where it doesn't help much. You can check the effectiveness by lowering the fan speed and comparing it to fans at 100%. If the delta is less than 4C between fans basically at their lowest spin while the system is under load and the fans at 100% while the system is under load, then you are at too much Radiator, meaning you went beyond the cost efficiency curve in water cooling, although that also means you can run that rig really quiet, which is its own benefit.

But it's looking good, man. Happy you caught the bug, because it is fun!

 

The only way I got my 5900x/3080 and 5600x/3060 Ti was getting a heads up when stuff was in stock. There is a discord server I used for that:

https://discord.gg/mM5aBJmbrN

Please note this is not affiliated with NBR, I take no responsibility for anything on that server, and YMMV of course. Having said that, it's actually been pretty fun to watch people finally score hardware they've been waiting for. There is rumor of a Best Buy drop today, they typically restock every other Tuesday, but we will see what happens.

 

Do you have 4 systems? Or, do you play musical GPUs with one? That's a lot of GPUs to buy in a short amount of time. Best Buy isn't noted as being a good source for PC enthusiast parts, but what they do have they generally sells at very good prices. They don't do the scalping crap. Got to respect them for that, because they could easily get away with it if they wanted to.

 

Sorry I just listed 2x "hard to find" CPUs and 2x GPUs. The second combo is in my server while the first is in my desktop (awaiting a 3080 FTW3 waterblock). I did have another 3080 and a 3070 but they've since been sold to friends who couldn't track down a GPU...

Best buy is now the only one allowed to sell Founders Editions cards AFAIK, so they are the only source for that. Outside of EVGA direct (with a previous spot in the queue so you still have their pre-tariff prices) they are probably the best spot to pick one up. They will not ship cards to you and they limit you to one, so that cuts down on the scalpers snatching up all of the goodies...

 

I think it would be wonderful for PC enthusiasts and gamers to do a hard reset on the industry. It would be great if we could all agree/conspire to hit the pause button for about 3 years and nobody buy anything unless it is absolutely unavoidable (like for business reasons, or replacing non-functional parts, repairing existing systems with used parts, etc.) and see where that lands us with these absolutely retarded prices and paper launches. No upgrades. No new builds, no recreational purchases. Let them get down on their knees and beg for sales. Paper launch? No problem. Here's my make believe interest in your digital unicorn. Call me when you actually have something to sell en masse and it doesn't require lubricant.

 

It would make more sense for the Business side to pull a boycott like that to be perfectly honest, since they charge much more for professional cards.

That being said I would love for all the tech reviewers to completely ignore Nvidia's next release until "their editorial position changes"

AMD needs to learn how to not continually shoot themselves in the foot, but then again they hired Frank Azor so 0% of that happening...