*Official* NBR Desktop Overclocker's Lounge [laptop owners welcome, too]

[email protected] all very easy. And it’s extremely stable because the temps are very very low. I’m trying to bench 5.4Ghz all core right now. Which seems very possible so far.

Worst case scenario I will run 5.3Ghz all core and 5.4Ghz on some cores.

The improvement is massive. I could never stabilize 5.3Ghz. I could only stabilize 5.2Ghz all cores previously.

 

Man, eBay is just an effing rip-off outfit. So, I sold the mobo, 5950X and monoblock for $825. After those thieves were done molesting me I am left with $679.34 ($145.66 in fees, or 17.66%). No add-ons or features, just a basic listing. Bastards.

 

You aren’t lying sir. They hit you with 10% on ebay fee’s then another 3% in PayPal fee’s. And potentially even more fee’s once you transfer the funds to your bank account.

Ebay is highway robbery for sure!

 

Yeah, and they calculate their cut based on the cost inclusive of shipping fees, which is totally dishonest. Shipping fees are not a realized profit for sellers, but they profit even on your loss. Very scummy.

 

At least you got rid of the problem Better than nothing.

https://hwbot.org/submission/4845270_papusan_xtu_core_i3_3120m_281_marks


https://hwbot.org/submission/484529...e_i3_3120m_34min_54sec_650ms?recalculate=true

 

Delidding with liquid metal definitely opens up a few extra bins.

You guys got me hooked on liquid metal as my TIM of choice now. I love this stuff! I gotta try it out on my Alien next.

I'm all liquid metal and delids from this point forth + Phobya Nanogrease on the GPU.

 

I managed to get 5,353Mhz stable as an All-Core OC on my 11900K.


^ This is fast and plenty sufficient for an 11900K. IPC is still 20-30% beyond 10Th Gen. I would trade the 5% multithreaded loss anyway.


I will probably run a per core OC and find which cores can do what. Because temps are not an issue at all.

 

What is your TIM of choice if you didn’t have LM?

 

I guess time will tell if you continue using it that way and nothing goes wrong. It would seem very odd for Intel to design something that complicates the manufacturing process and adds to production costs by placing components on the CPU PCB that are not necessary and have no effect on function. I am glad that it still works, but I am very curious what those SMD components are for and what (if anything) will result from continued use without them. Have you noticed anything different with electronic noise in the audio system or an increase in DPC latency? Perhaps they are there for some purpose relating to the Intel Graphics? Have you checked to see if the Intel Graphics chip is still functional? (If the only thing affected is integrated graphics, if it doesn't affect the CPU otherwise, having destroyed that functionality could end up being a blessing in disquise, LOL.) Maybe by scaping off those SMD chips it became a 11900KF.

While it does seem to make more of a difference on laptops, on my desktops I don't normally see a meaningful difference in temps among normal thermal pastes. Some seem to last longer than others, but the temps are generally within a degree or two of the same. KPX, MX-4, Kryosnaut, Phobya NanoGrease Extreme are all about the same for me in terms of temperatures. I like the way KPX and MX-4 are so easy to spread. Kryosnaut is a lot messier in terms of making gooey "strings" that get on other things when you remove the waterblock. If you apply the Phobya NanoGrease Extreme too thick it takes somewhat of a breakin period for it to even out because it is thicker than KPX or MX-4, but after a day or two the temps even out to about the same. (That is why it works better at fixing sloppy laptop heat sink fit.) Kryosnaut seem to have more of an issue with pump-out for me, and the messy aspect of it becomes more of an unnecessary chore to deal with if it ends up running off the edges of an IHS and making a bigger mess, or you end up with strings of thermal paste around the CPU socket that needs to be cleaned up every time you take off the heat sink or waterblock. (That is why I have nicknamed it Kryosnaut, with the emphasis on the phonetic play on the word "snot" LOL.)

 

In my previous post outlining my KPE 3090 sale I noted if you sold > $750/mo it is better to pay the $27.99/mo fee for a store as your fees would have been substantially lower even if you sign up for only one month then cancel. Based on that astronomical fee, I miscalculated that threshhold based on pre February 2021 models. It looks like if you sell more than ~$350/mo it would be to your advantage to set up a store front.

As for S&H, dishonest sellers were purposely listing items for much less than they were worth and transferring the cost into S&H fees instead. In the early days, eBay didn't charge seller fees on S&H and in the early, EARLY days, S&H was non-refundable. Bad sellers ruined it for the rest of all the other sellers by scamming buyers who couldn't get S&H fees back and scamming ebay out of seller fees.

eBay could strike a compromise on S&H and as long as you use their S&H services and calculations (which they did not have years ago) not charge you seller fees on the S&H but at this point that is free money left on the table.

My biggest gripe is still they charge seller fees on sales tax collected which the seller doesn't even see at all as it is directly remitted to state you reside within. This is the height of dishonest behavior.

Lastly, $825 was a steal even before fees, wow. If you haven't shipped yet, you can always cancel the transaction and sell elsewhere but you take a chance of getting a negative from the buyer.

I wish there was an alternative to eBay that had such a wide audience and/or local buyers weren't so lowballish in their offers. Things I price down here and elsewhere will sit for days (or weeks/months sometimes) even at very competitive prices but as soon as I list it on eBay and adjust the cost upward to reflect real pricing trends it almost always sells and I don't even have to do international. If I do choose to do international, it will usually sell within 48hrs or less.

That KPE 3090 I listed here had a few nibbles. eBay it was sold within 8hrs. Same for other medium and high end items I've listed here like my P870DM, Clevo GTX 1080, 9900ks and P870TM. All sold via eBay.

 

I love the shock you have when a chip that has been shown time and time again that responds ridiculously favorably to temps proceeds to do just that.

As long as you can keep 11th gen under ~80c, it gets much more headroom. Sub 70? Now we're talking.

If you look at those running pelts and cryo just about all 11th's hit 6ghz+ regardless of rating. At a certain point, keeping the temps insanely low allows them to run rampant. Of course after that, it can get selective.

It will be interesting to see what @Mr. Fox does with his after a delid and the chiller.

Nevermind the sales tax buyers have to suffer (which eBay takes a piece of). Usually why when I list here I always say if you're within a ~300mi distance, we can meet up half way and cut all that nonsense when able.

So many highly binned 11th gen chips I've seen fail at 5.3 all core when properly stress tested even with a CB23 10-20 loop or RealBench 2.56 stress test. Many just dial in 5.1 or 5.2 all core. 5.353 is very good!

 

Agreed, I got hooked in LM when I took the plunge with my Alienware 18 and trying to tame that 4930mx and I've never looked back for certain scenarios.

Delids are mandatory for desktop laptop CPUs for me. I too use nanogrease on my laptop GPUs but I tend to use nanogrease on the CPU too most times in laptops though.

 

I would say a the mini tub of Kryonaut extreme. This stuff works atleast -1C better than Kingpin KPx paste.

I like the Thermalright TFX paste too. That stuff works so good. So many bad reviews of people who don’t know how to use it. It’s tough to spread.

 

Yep. And I think it's more of a relation to the voltage regulation, CML doesn't have but RKL has it also RKL has super high voltage ceiling (24x7 1.4v+) for the last 14nm++ node while CML doesn't and how insane 11900K ABT gets it to 400W+ untamed or more than 360W tuned with insane Core temps on OC, and 10900K peaks at 300-350W with 5.2-5.3GHz all core on AVX with offsets tuned at-least that's what I was able to glean from the OCN and Luumi etc. Similarly if we can remember Haswell/Hotwell MQ/MX processor PGA CPUs have FIVR and has those SMD caps on the PCB while the Ivy Bridge MQ/XM line up did not have those. Also the socket impact, now does the socket & VRMs work without those SMD caps.

 

@Mr. Fox You must delid the 11900K. The temp reduction is larger than deliding 10th Gen processors.

I’m gonna test it some more after work today. But 2,800 R15 really isn’t bad at all for an 8/16 chip.

It’s almost like they designed them to run direct die. Super thin silicon die, and a jumbo thick substrate to prevent flexing.

 

I intend to run it direct die. I will run it for a week or two without modifications to get used to the new chipset, firmware, etc. and order a direct die kit from James at Rockit Cool. I will most likely just push the IHS once to break the rubber seal, then move straight to the oven to melt the solder. How long did you heat it and at what temperature? I know I saw it in a De8auer video and I can easily find it again, but I don't remember because when I watched it I had no intention of owning an 11900K.

Did you check to see if the iGPU is still functional with those missing SMDs. The more I think about it, the more curious I become to know exactly what they are for. As Brother @Ashtrix mentioned, we had some similar SMDs on Haswell processors, but they were not in a danger zone near the edge of the PCB. I don't think anyone ever found out what would happen if they were removed. There would be no reason to find out on purpose. It's cool that you found out by accident that it still works.

 

Has anyone ever tried running direct die with a TEC? I'm wondering how good the resulting overclocking headroom would be.

With low temperatures, is it still good to use liquid metal? It would freeze at the temperatures TECs are capable of achieving.

 

He baked it at 300F http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...rs-welcome-too.810490/page-1276#post-11126580

He used too low temp (below 150C). Bake it at 170C and 20-25 min

 

No, LM loses its benefits when you go sub-ambient. While you can go below ambient with a TEC, I am not sure it will be sustainable to push below 10C (if my memory serves me correct). Like @Mr. Fox stated, most of the high quality TIM's are going to perform the same. The issue always comes up to how long they last. I love KPX but it doesn't last very long, about 3 to 6 months for me. That is with high and low temp cycles (aka benching). Surprisingly, I purchased a large tube of some random chinese TIM on Amazon and I love that stuff too. I use it on builds that I won't be changing often and temps remain good.

 

Running the chips well below 8C over longer periods, the liquid metal will be brittle/crunchy and push the cooler away from the IHS. Liquid metal perform better the higher temps you reach. And as you so nice said... thermal paste or LM on the IHS doesn't make the big differences. Maybe it help if you are at the border to be able to bench etc 5.3 over etc 5.2. But Silicon lottery said not enough difference to let your chips run 1 bin higher as dayly driver.

 

You don't want LM with a TEC. Thermal conductivity decreases with lower temperatures, resulting in worse performance. But thermal conductivity increases with higher temperature, so conductivity is much higher at ~60-80c than ~20-30c.

 

Thanks for the input everyone. The message I'm getting from all of this is if I were to go with a TEC, I shouldn't bother with a delid and just use regular thermal paste. I should only bother with a delid and a liquid metal application on the CPU die if I want to do bare die cooling with a regular water or air cooler.

 

Liquid metal in between die and IHS is different than between IHS and coldplate. LM on sub-zero setups is a huge nope.

 

My concern with the TEC would be condensation more than hardening of the liquid metal, especially with direct die, if you are in an area with high humidity. You'd have a neat little "pocket" to fill with water surrounding the die. If you were doing to do that, I would fill up that pocket between the die and die frame with kneaded eraser or RTV silicon to avoid the possibility of a puddle of water forming around the die and help seal it off in case condensation does form.

I do prefer using liquid metal for everything related to the CPU (on die and on IHS) whenever possible because it is at least 10 times more effective than thermal paste and lasts about 10 times longer. I have never needed to repaste using liquid metal when applied correctly. I have replaced liquid metal due to tinkering, but never because it lost its effectiveness. I avoid using normal thermal paste whenever possible because it is more hassle and not as good.

If you are not going sub-zero, there is no reason to consider using normal thermal paste unless you have a poor fit issue, which is so common on laptops and turned out to be problematic on the 5950X delid.

The only objectionable aspect I have identified to using liquid metal is it eventually makes the laser printing on the IHS unreadable. If you buy a CPU with the intent of using it and don't need to make a warranty claim, that is totally inconsequential. If you buy a new tray/OEM CPU, then there is no warranty available with Intel anyhow. Some say it affects resale value when you can't read the printing on the IHS, but that is kind of silly. Using that same rationale, delidding does, too. But, only if you are selling it to a person that isn't very tech savvy. Smart people that buy a used CPU don't care about either of those things as long as the CPU works correctly and is a good silicon sample. You can't read the laser printing on the IHS when you are using it and being able to read it does nothing to make the CPU function better. Lapping the IHS removes the laser printing as well, but it produces better results. So, I say enjoy it and not allow silly OCD things like that prevent you from taking appropriate steps to achieve something better.

 

Woke up to a rather intense migraine this morning after staying up late working on the miners, so I stayed home. Its been some time since I had a migraine to the level of light sensitivity.

I more or less have the setup done, issue is I think I might have pulled one of the riser cables or the bifurcation adapter as the 3090 isnt showing up in the OS, once I have this resolved ill get things tidied up again and snap another picture.

That being said, it looks like my theory of going "open air" being beneficial so far seems to be correct. While the core temperatures dropped 5c-8c the memory temperatures dropped by almost 30c at the extreme and 9c at worst. This is on my 5700XT's.

hopefully soon I can have something for the nvidia side of things after I resolve the issue of the 3090.

 

Hey bro, sorry to hear about the migraines. I am blessed to have never experienced them before, but I know from family and friends that do that it is no fun. I'll say a prayer for you and maybe tomorrow things will be back to normal with no headaches.

Yes, an open air chassis is definitely the best way to keep the parts cool (both air and water cooling). The passive cooling on GDDR6/6X memory, especially, and CPU VRMs to some degree, do not fare nearly well on a system running inside of a closed up case. Depending on the design of the case, I can see where some that are poorly made would be similar to a laptop not being able to breathe.

 

@Clamibot

I still recommend a delid. Just use thermal paste instead of liquid metal, if your going with TEC cooling.

When I delidded my 10850K a few weeks ago, I ran it direct die with just Kingpin kpx thermal paste on a 240MM AIO at 5.2Ghz at 95-100C hottest temps. Fortunately this 10850K is some weird freak that loves heat. So it doesn’t lose stability when things start to get hot. But 5.2Ghz benching R23 is something that is just not physically possible on a AIO lol. But it is with direct die and just thermal paste. The results were great considering. Direct die with thermal paste opened up +200Mhz on this chip. Running TEC would easily give another +100-200 for all or a few cores.

If I were you, I would run a delidded and direct die CPU with the TEC cooler. Just use a very high quality paste like Kryonaut extreme (That pink stuff)

 

I haven’t found any issues at all yet. But I will say this, it’s been running@ 5.350Mhz for a day now and it’s rock stable. I could just barely stabilize 5,200Mhz previously. With a little more tuning I hope to get 5.4Ghz all
core daily stable.

I have never used the iGPU, and probably never will lol.

 

Never say not possible. Guru3d used an old small 240mm from Corsair. And there ain't much difference between benching CBR 20 and CBR23. Put in an even bigger 360/420 AIO and you'll have even headroom for +5.3 with a good sample of silicon
https://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/intel_core_i9_10900k_processor_review,28.html

 

No, me neither. Integrated graphics is garbage. I'm not suggesting that you begin using it. My only suggestion is to test it simply to see if the parts that got knocked off has affected it since it has not, so far, affected anything else that you can identify.

 

I'm more excited for brother Fox to get the stuff I sent to see what he does with it than I was when i got it and was planing to use it. LOL

 

https://twitter.com/TweakPC/status/1455899961074364417

Looking real good. Should overclock nicely since Hi Cookie just hit 8Ghz. Shows more room to clock than previous 10 and 11th gen.

 

That is looking REAL righteous!

12700k might be the new Clevo laptop sweet spot to boot.

1.279v / 160w total @ 5ghz all core 66c tops

Only thing is what are the testing conditions, but man that looks good.

 

I am looking forward to it as well. I have completely flushed out the loop, chiller and GPU block while waiting for the parts. It's ready to go now with fresh distilled water and I have added some Prestone coolant to the mix this time. The OptimusPC CPU block is scheduled to arrive the same day as the mobo and CPU (might be delivered together since all are being shipped by UPS). I ordered some fresh Mayhems Ultra Clear flexible tubing from Performance-PCs (which won't arrive in time for the first assembly). Direct die kit was ordered from Rockit Cool. I will flush again and install the new tubing when I delid and reassemble with the direct die configuration.

The Neo Qube certainly looked gorgeous with the AMD parts in it. As much as I loved how it looked, I am having trouble getting excited about putting parts back into an enclosed case again. I am leaning strongly toward going back to using the open bench. I know I am going to be cursing the dust when I do, but man... an open bench is so convenient and the horizontal motherboard placement is vastly superior to vertical. Aesthetics aside, it is difficult to discount the convenience and enhanced experience using an open bench versus an enclosed case. With the open bench you seldom pause for the reason that what you want to do it going to be inconvenient, complex or time consuming because almost everything is so easy. At the end of the day, I think I value that more than I do aesthetics.

 

This is how it originally started.

From bottom to top: Precision 7810 w/ 4x 5700XT's. 1x in the 7810 itself and 3x in the hollowed out case above it which used to be a 5810 with a dead board. IIRC the top system is my 5820 and it may have had the 2x Vega 56's at that point.

During this time my desktop on the left was still in service for games and such, I had gotten 2x 1070's for free from a retiring miner so I played games and such off the 1070 as the efficiency is terrible on them, still great for most games though.



The Gigabyte 5700 XT's are both good but have a sort of * to them. The vbios has to be signed so unlike any other vendor (save for Asus) if you just flash a vbios with modified parameters it just become a sort of brick. Easy enough to resolve if you hook it up to a system with integrated graphics and video output as you guys very well know just from your own experiences with using alternative vbioses for benchmarking. They get me 52Mh/s each @ 110-115w.

The Gigabyte 5700XT's are quite small in comparison to the other models I have and I was hitting the limits in power to my room. As winter nears I started expanding some of my more stable as less pricey miners into the dining room. Although its hard to see from the pictures I have them rest on rubber feet so that its not PCB/metal on metal and I have a couple of heatsinks attached via double sided thermal tape on the backplate.

The 5820 now sits below the MiniMiner with the Vega 56's which gets me about 98Mh/s for 120-130w each.



This picture was taken mid-migraine I didnt notice it was fuzzy.

DD monitors and system use Column 2 while Column 1 is used for the miners. 4 of the 6 monitors here were all free from work. Nothing fancy, 1x 1440p / 1x 4K / 3x 1080p / 1x 1080p144hz.

Now the grotesque majesty of the miners was made being as cheap as possible, which means cardboard, more to the point free cardboard from work. Easy to mold and I have various tapes to grant attributes that I want from it. I normally dont have that front flap but with the addition of the 3090 in its testing phase it was leaking quite a bit of heat dump back into the room mostly due to the issue of the window fans being further away as well as no longer being negative pressure. Adding the flap to the front basically made it negative pressure again but of course didnt really resolve the issues of testing phase. testing phase being hook it up regardless of long term plans just to ensure it will work before going through the trouble of doing another full tear down.



The other 2 monitors and a basic 40" HDTV. I tend to throw on a show I have already seen before when I start working on a project. Elementary being a show I enjoy.

It may look like a bunch of monitors for no reason but I do use them. Some more than others of course but for instance the Column 3 Dell monitor has a lot of I/O but has no VGA, while the BenQ has DP but also VGA. Basically its good for testing systems from different era's without the need for adapters, in my eyes adapters are of course useful but are an avoidable point of failure in any scenario.

The "Desk" is actually a reinforced picnic table. I am an unapologetic function over form individual.

More to follow on the next post.

 

I never experienced nickel before with watercooling until I received your old Optimus Sig V2. Liquid metal and nickel is very easy to work with. My old Optimus Sig V2 that I sold with my 7980XE was copper. And every time I re-mounted with LM I had to sand and polish the cold plate. copper accumulates these tears of hard liquid metal on it.

Anyways it’s a great block.

I am going to tear my build apart this week, I am gonna try hardline PETG tubing, and I’m gonna put the flat legs on my test bench.

 

Now this is a mess.

The hollowed out 5810 is on the left, its where I house 3 5700XT's but sadly the fan controller that I bought cant supply enough juice to the fans provided from the Dell case. The 5810 case uses 3x 92mm fans that are wider than the traditional (I think) 25mm size, I added a fourth to the top. Could only get about maybe half the speed. These cards are non reference so while the cooling is "better" on them ultimately the reference AMD blower card was and still is my best performer, see below.



GPU 0-1: Red Devil 5700 XT's
GPU 2: AMD reference
GPU 3: Asrock Taichi 5700 XT

I would say the Red Devils are my baseline mostly since it was my original card to start with but as you can see arent the best in terms of efficiency. That crown goes to the AMD Reference card. GPU 3 is the Taichi card and typically its mem temps were always bad. Repadding ad then adding maybe 1KG of heatsinks to the backplate the mem has come down to 70c. The Red Devil cards I just recently repadded and also added thermal pads to the backplate. I'll be adding some heatsinks to those cards in the near future.

As an aside, the 5700XT after BIOS mod can do 57-60Mh/s for mining, a 2080Ti does 60. All of Pascal has bad efficiency in my book for mining, gaming they are great though.

Now you can see the 3x RTX cards I have running literally are all sandwiched up as you can see above. There are a couple of reasons for this I was actually testing a couple of things. One, I had the GPU plugged in via the pcie slot, and the second plugged into the M.2 NVME slot. When I got the 3090 I knew I would need bifurcation to be able to continue adding more cards to my ITX system so this is when I had to start experimenting with my adapter to split 4 hookups from 1 pcie source. Bifurcation is what allows for this scenario to function. So one aspect was that as well as testing the 3090 proper, never had one before.



This is the configuration as of last night, the GPU's basically sitting on the sides of their respective host systems but in an "open air" styled scenario. There are still some corrections and details that need to be rectified in terms of cable routing. With this scenario I can add a tier two row with some 2x4's without too much trouble.



Now the 3080's are fun and simple cards. Plug in, +1200 on the memory, -200 core then lower power limit until you start losing performance. Now with the v2's and LHR cards its too much hassle when the 5700 XT's get better efficiency but require more hookups. The 3090 is not great for efficiency but it brings in 121Mh/s on a single card and is guaranteed to be FHR. It then becomes a balancing act of get more cards to keep efficiency high or be more practical and purchase cards when the timing is right regardless of hashrate. For me my baseline was 50+ Mh/s @ 125w or less. Otherwise I would just be buying anything and everything under the sun and I dont have solar panels lmao.



This shows the mem temps , yesterday I was at 100C+ because they were recycling each others heat dump. The MSI card is laying on its plastic backplate 1 inch above the 2x 1200w HP power supplies. so its mem temps are going to be higher naturally. I have a couple of blower fans that I plan to rewire soon so that I can get some air moving between those 2 surfaces.

EVGA 3080 : 92c
EVGA 3090: 94c
MSI: 96c

 

I got an new EVGA CLC 280 in an unopened box for $82 included shipping on the used market here home. New price is 1778.75 Kr includ 25% Norwegian tax ($ 208). Pc parts / equipment are terribly expensive here at home. The greed have no limits.


Yep, the box is unopned

 

Yes, nickel is a real joy to work with and so easy to maintain. Copper has the issues you mentioned, as well as unsightly tarnishing that is natural and unavoidable. The copper inside of my K|NGP|N Hydro Copper block was starting to look pretty skanky. I filled it up with white vinegar and let it sit overnight and then used some long pipe cleaners to reach in and scrub things up. It helped a lot and it looks a whole lot better, but it still has that somewhat haggard look to it that you can't avoid with copper. I guess that is fine if you are into antiques or prefer the steam punk look, but I like things to stay looking shiny and new even when they are not. Nickel facilitates that nicely.

Hard tubing looks wonderful, but I have always avoided it because of the inconvenience of taking a cooling system apart for simple maintenance tasks when using it. With flexible tubing you don't need to drain fluids or bleed air out for simple things. In fact, there is no reason to ever open one of the lines, drain or refill the loop unless you are specifically servicing the cooling system itself. I use quick disconnect fittings excessively as well, which also enhances convenience. Hard tubing makes dealing with that extra nonsense almost mandatory with nearly any operation involving the components included in the cooling loop. It seems like using rigid tubing on an open bench might defeat one of the reasons for using an open bench instead of a case in the first place. While it might look awesome, you're making something designed to be convenient and easy to work on into something inconvenient and unpleasant to deal with.

Man that is quite the elaborate setup you have there brother. Lots of hardware and money. Awesome stuff.

What is your electric bill looking like? I bet that room gets pretty toasty at times.

 

My buddy @EepoSaurus has a dedicated shed with its own power/meter and AC running three mining rigs with all 3090's. it's like 7 or 8 3090's per rig. Has box fans hanging above them also and ac blasting..

 

First off I appreciate the sentiments from the previous quote, meant to reply to it but lost track of time. Been burning both ends of the candle for maybe a little too long and then last week Dell is forcing vaccines which I dont care about it personally its my companies slapstick 2 month behind but hold everyone to the same standard response with no clear definitions or guidelines until a week before deadline that screams like a scam in any other instance. Then I learn yesterday I dont need the vaccine because my projects are federal. Just to reiterate its not the vaccine im irritated with, its the damn lack of planning that wouldnt be acceptable in my own work is somehow "the norm" of my C level management. Its probably what gave me my migraine lol

My power bill has increased by about 200 if I round up between all my systems. Its probably close to 1700w total if I am rounding up. The temperature in my room is probably around 3-6F higher over ambient. If its warm I just turn a fan on and Im good.

I also "fabricated" a kind of canopy for the window so that I dont have to worry about rain coming through. With it getting cooler though I may tunnel one of the fans as an intake as they are reversible

 

Awesome. EVGA CLC systems seem to work well and look great.

No worries. I figured you were really busy. I know exactly what that means, as there are never enough hours in my days.

I get it on the vax thing, too. Poor communication, miscommunication, delayed communication, misinformation, myth, superstition and propaganda all seem to be inherent in some way to nearly everything relating to COVID, and it is frustrating to say the least. I agree... the vaccine itself isn't the problem. Want one? Need one? Then please, go get one. But, I also object to mandates in general. Especially when the basis for the mandate is neither sound nor prudent. Taking a Procrustean approach to things seldom turns out well, and sometimes a cure can be worse than the disease.

 

Reviews said a bit noisy on max speed but this doesn't mean anything for me. On max speed this 280 AIO should cool equal good/better as 360mm. I will add 2 extra 140 mm fans for push/pull.


This AIO should even be sufficient for oc'd 10900K as posted below. Not bad for 80$ here home
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...rs-welcome-too.810490/page-1281#post-11126775

Edit. Whats better for the air pressure. Maybe put the more powerful fan as pulls as it won't be hampered by the weaker fans in front of the radiator. Or maybe better use it as push due it will be the first one to grab cold air https://www.ekwb.com/blog/push-pull-or-push-pull-on-radiators/

 

I would do push to get access to the cooler air unless you are on an open bench. Matter of fact, with your Norwegian cold weather, it probably doesn't matter. lol

 

Thanks. I will put in 13 fans. 8 for intake (4x140mm + 4x120mm). And 5 for the outlet (3x140mm + 2x120mm). Airflow for intake will be around 1388 m3/h and probably not the fan and sound setup @electrosoft want



Fractal Design Define S Black Window.

 

Back when I used to try my hand at water cooling there was a lot of talk of using shrouds as well to eliminate the loss of efficiency from the dead zone the motor provides.

Is that something people still consider or was it deemed not worth the pursuit?

 

I think it is still valid but it doesn't get talked about a lot. Perhaps part of the reason for that is how dumbed down things have become in the past three or four years, as well as how technically illiterate so many gamer-kids are.

 

A lot people want small and pretty boxes. Let the fans or the rads stick out more than needed will ruin the overall look. Aka design before functionality.

 

It seemed perfectly logical to me at the time and so when ever I break my fans I always keep the housing and repurpose into shrouds lol

 

(Removes noise canceling headset)

"What did you say?"