*Official* NBR Desktop Overclocker's Lounge [laptop owners welcome, too]

If @TANWare used Coollaboratory Liquid metal... I would jump on Grizzly Conductonaut. CLLU ain't as before (variable batch or new resipe). Even Silicon Lottery changed it out for Conductonaut last year.

 

I don't think I've got enough Coolaboratory Liquid Metal left to do another CPU or GPU, so I'll probably be ending up taking the latest advice from our folks on here if I need to buy some more - based on what you're saying I'd be buying that Grizzly Conductonaut, I've heard other people say the same thing on here too.

 

...or just go for Gallinstan and get 10x more for the same price

 

I really havent had the best experience with Gallistan. Has dried out on my multiple times.

 

Although it seems to have a lower thermal conductivity than Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galinstan
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,3616-9.html

38.4 W/(mk) vs. 16.5 W/(mk)

Ha, it is cheaper though! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Galinsta...ass-Vial-Thermal-Compound-Paste-/323066805108

But if it performs worse & you're going to the trouble of using an electrically conductive thermal paste you may as well get the one with the best performance, almost regardless of price within reason.

 

ive compared Gallinstan with CLU a couple times and havent found any difference in temps whatsoever and with a price advantage of 10x (same price for 1g CLU / conductonaut vs. 10g of Gallinstan) its a no-brainer for me...

 

Interesting for sure.

EDIT: the composition of Gallinstan can differ according to the wikipedia article, so perhaps the performance depends on the specific blend, do you know the blend you buy?

 

Wrong thread...whoops

 

here u go: https://www.ebay.de/itm/925-kg-10-g...125301?hash=item48ad1ed8f5:g:Dh8AAOSwFqJWoJbw

 

Given "galinstan" is a preparation that can vary by composition I can't see how it is always going to be 16.5W/mK... Or the alternative question is what do they add or do to it to make TGC which is 73 W/mK?

I have a 30g bottle of Latvian 'galinstan' and I have noticed nothing different the once I've used it so far (compared with conductonaut)

 

i usually dont go off the official stated thermal conductivity numbers in W/mK, they dont really mean jack when it comes to real life temps

 

I’m quite sure there is a differences in batches or the composition. We have seen it from Coolaboratory. I think it’s the same for the commercial Galinstan.

 

They don't give a breakdown of the percentage composition of the different materials. Hopefully it provides the same realiable results from batch to batch. It's good that you included the link to the product that you say is as good as CLU - praps some folks here will take the plunge, buy this, save some money, and see results as good as CLU. It feels like more of a risk than buying something like CLU or Conduconaut though (less controlled formulation perhaps), and given that application of any paste (especially liquid metal) can be a laborious process you kinda don't want to have to redo it if the 'cheap' stuff doesn't work well. Good to have better value alternatives though!

 

All the tubes of Conductonaut i have bought over the last 2 years have been the same. However the beading issue that you guys have been talking about, i have had the same WITH different heatsinks. Even on different die's . All it takes to sort that is to rub it on using the cotton swab with a little bit of extra pressure.

 

I've seen this with CLU too. I just kept working on it like you said with a Q-tip until it finally laid out evenly. Thats when I delidded my CPU about 6-7 months or so ago, and still good on temps.

I've seen YouTube videos where some guys spread it out in no time and others take a little longer.

Another factor could be that the surface(s) wasn't cleaned as well as it should be. Possibly caused by oil from our fingertips? That's just a guess though, off the cuff, so to speak. No googling done here to back this up lol!

 

Usually , for me at least, it depended on how tough / sanded the surface of the heatsink was. As for the Die's its always been weird. Most just easily let conductonaut stick and some make it bead up.

 

The silicon die have a very very thin diffusion barrier on top. If people clean it in different ways or not good enough, I think this is the main culprit for not getting the Liquid metal to stick to the die.

 

Yep

 

well at a tenth of the price it was a no-brainer for me to at least try it out. and i havent regretted it so far especially since i repaste about every 3-6 months together with cleaning out dust and checking thermal pads / repadding everything. makes this regular maintenance much cheaper

 

Bump and good night. Tomorrow's finally Friday.

 

Just got my new station in.....It's a work in progress. Still trying to figure out where I want to put stuff at.

 

Very nice! I wanted a Praxis bench and everywhere I checked they were out of stock. Looks awesome. I wanted the black one, just like that one, but there was no color available at all, even on the manufacturer's web page.

The one thing I was concerned about is having a place to put everything. Is there a way to mount dual 360mm radiators that you can see? Like maybe on on the front to block off the opening between the legs and the other one on the radiator tray in back?

Did it come with the GPU bracket, PSU bracket and drive brackets that go underneath the motherboard tray?

 

Thanks.
When did you decide on getting one of these?

Yes, I had talked with them as well. Right when they posted them back on their site, I had already bought one from Performance-PC.
Hummm, that depends on your definition of that. The manufacture said it was only built for a maximum of 1 360 rad, but in the pictures below.... You can improvise. You could even put one in side the middle. Here are some over exaggerated ideas because this is an old school radiator.

On this one you would remove that screw and bolt assempbly and it will perfect. Other wise it has about a 3mm bow.




This picture its not sitting on the window seal, it's sitting on the bracket it self. It can be bolted on while detached and then simply set the tray back on when done.

The last one you would mount them starting from the right to the left and then put the Res on the right side where it normally goes.

Yes, it came with all that you mentioned. The 2.5"/3.5 drives can be mounted right to the middle section. Although I asked them if they made a second set to run dual power supply's and they replied. No, they did not.
In some places this thing is pretty flimsy though. Like where it says Praxis, but then you wont be mounting anything on that part. The tray in a whole has some flex as well, but not enough to make me take it back. I had read some reviews and that was their biggest concern, but after testing it out. not so much my concern.

 

When @Trafficante bought me this case that I have now is when I was trying to get one of these and they were sold out everywhere, including the PrimoChill web site. JayzTwoCents has one that shows in most of his videos and I really like it except for the fact that his is white. I definitely prefer black over white. I think yours looks a lot better. Thanks for the pics.

I think standing them on end in the back would work fine, or putting the thin Floe Riing 360 radiator in front that I use for the GPU, with the fat XSPC CPU radiator in back would probably work fine as well. My reservoir is 270mm tall, so having a wall of radiators and a reservoir standing up in back might make getting to some of the cables a little tricky. As long as it fits between the legs in front I probably would not need to attach it to anything. Both radiators are push/pull fans, so it is probably wide enough to just sit there without flopping over. Or, I could use some simple L-brackets on the fans with rubber feet attached to them as vibration dampers and leave the radiator sitting on the desk under the front. That might actually look pretty nice and block the view of the PSU and drives underneath.

I watched a review on YouTube that was kind of critical of it, but I thought the complaints were very petty and was not sure I agreed with the stuff the guy was whining about. One of the things he did not like was the motherboard stand-off screws and from what I could tell, I actually liked that part.

As much as I want one still, I will probably wait. Would make more sense to save my money for more QD fittings and a water chiller at this point. As you know, my case is already huge and easy enough to work in. Nothing is cramped for space. Maybe after I get a chiller I can get one of these.

 

No problem.

You got me there. I'm definitely never ever going back to a case for benching. My only real complaint is whether to take the tray out for LN2 or find a way to tilt the case for those sessions. The motherboard has to be level for that.

You really don't have to attach anything. you can set them up anywhere around the station and they would work fine. Now picking up and moving it....Might present a problem, but if you have quick disconnects, then no problem moving it at all, just a little more time involved.

Not sure how that would be a problem since this thing has it's own disconnect system. That radiator bracket slides on and off. And once all the wires are in place, why would you need to be getting back in there? They all fit through the slots in the trays. And the sides are plenty big enough for you to fit your whole hand inside So if you can't get to the wires then Houston, we have a problem.
Personally I would just put the rads on the back and the front. And figure out a way to attach it in the front. That way when you go to move it you would not have to worry about holding multiple pieces or taking it partially apart. Also, if you run the rad in the front, you wont be able to readily access the DVD/cdrom. That's if you have one still.


As to the motherboard stand off screws. If you have a standard board then you only need install 9. (Now installing those for the first time is time consuming in itself) If you install more than the standard 9 for our boards the board will not fit. The added 3 points hit places on the back of the board. And technically you don't even have to put the nuts on. Once it's assembled, that all becomes a moot point since you wont be taking that part apart again.

Plenty of room all over the place my friend.






Now the major flaw in design. Not sure who thought it would be a good idea to not center the the cutout for a full sized motherboard. Now if I did want to run LN2 I would have to take the motherboard off to get to those screws.



But hey, it's only my opinion and so far i'm loving the station.

 

Also, not a whole lot of wires to be seen....
Got my other chiller back yesterday. She working like a champ! Gonna add it to the loop and see how fast 2600W of cooling drops water temps.


Not really alot of wires going to bee seen You would need to be sitting really low and tilting your neck to look under it. Or standing back 10 to 15 feet away.

 

That's making me want it even more, LOL. It would fit perfectly right where I have my P870 sitting between my work monitors and my desktop monitor, in the corner of my L-shaped desk. And, a chiller could go directly underneath the desk in that same spot.

Maybe when the time comes I can sell my current case to help offset the cost of the Praxis. I still think dust is going to be a battle here though. I can make my office spotless and by the next morning everything is covered with a layer of that good old Arizona dust.

 

Bro Fox make ready for bench weekends Your wife will be very happy Fox

 

That is actually how mine is setup with the chiller under the desk. Need to get something to hold my Kill-o-watt meter. Turns out the first 2 I had were defective.


Dust is going to be a factor. That is for sure.I hit my with the dust buster and it's good to go. Walk to the patio and hit it with the dust buster and she is good to go. Although I do not have two rads either.


Okay. last 4. Still need to make some changes, but it's starting to take shape with easy to manage tear downs if need be.

 

Everyone have a happy Father's Day tomorrow.

 

I'm not sure what has changed, but my 8700K at 5.0Ghz is putting down far better numbers than it was previously. I doubt the RAM is making that much if any difference? I scored 1683 the other day with just 5.0Ghz all cores. But it seemed a fluke as now I'm seeing 1666 which seems higher than average 5.0Ghz clockspeed.

 

That's not much difference (1683 versus 1666) and this is about what I expect to see at 5.0GHz. It does not take many services running in the background to screw up Cinebench and wPrime scores. Maybe there is less Windows 10 bloat garbage running in the background than what you would normally have.

To be sure I was not remembering incorrectly, I just dropped my clocks down to confirm it, and that seems exactly right to me.

 

Thanks but it seems even your scores improved from your results score linked in your SIG. Even if only a bit, it seems with Spectre and Meltdown somehow our scores have improved.

 

Ram speed and timings will make a difference. Not a big but 20-40 points in Cinebench isn’t unusual. You find a memory scaling guide review for Coffee in Techpowerup. They tested different ram speed and settings.

 

I don't have any of the updates or security crap installed. So, that's not it. I generally do not allow that filth to be downloaded.
I prefer to take my chances with the "risks" rather than risk letting the Redmond Retards screw up my stuff with their feces.

 

Hey, brother @Johnksss - found this imgur album. Looks pretty nice. I think I will mount my thinner radiator in front with L-brackets. That is what this guy did.

Sweet looking rig. I also like that free-standing radiator tower. Looks like he has two 360mm and two 240mm radiator.

https://imgur.com/a/0fEUA

 

That one is looking pretty nice. Looks like a lot of time went into that one there!

Sounds like a plan with mounting it in the front. I test fitted a 240 and that fit perfectly fine in that space. Even with dual huge fans.

I'm going to mount a 360 in the back, but make it so that when the chiller is running that is not. Radiators are condensation magnets and will drop water into the power supply and that's all she wrote. (Guess it really matters on which way the fans face though....)

I think i found me a work around, but waiting on my 90 degree compression fittings to come in so I can do it right.

 

Yours is looking pretty sharp as well.

As nice as that other setup looks, using rigid tubing totally defeated the purpose of having an open bench. That is just going to make it a pain in the butt to deal with, and it might as well be stuffed into a tower. But, it does look nice, no doubt about that.

Happy Father's Day everyone.

 

Some more experimenting... I think I finally figured out how im going to run it.
Right now it's just running off the 240mm 2 fan radiator. Running about 101F/38C Aida64 CPU/GPU at stock clocks.






Happy Fathers Day to all the real Fathers in the house!!

 

Incoming.

 

Well that did not take long to make up your mind. LOL

 

No, as I mentioned before this is exactly what I wanted when @Trafficante bought me the View 71 TG at Christmas and there were none to be found. Primochill had a 8% discount promocode and a decent price on shipping, so I got it out the door for $190. I decided on the black with gray accents since it is a neutral color.

I got my office torn apart right now. Replacing the carpet with laminate, building a closet to hide all my crap and repainting. So, I commandeered the dining room table for my temporary command center. I'll have a decent place to work every day until I get that done.


My "supervisor" is not particularly happy about the construction.

 

I was referring to that when I said "Well that did not take long to make up your mind. LOL"

They have been in and out of stock for a while now. I got tired of waiting on what was going to happen with my first test bench that didn't make it to my house. (I'm still waiting on that - A little over a month and a half now) So I bought this one.

Better that supervisor than the one who is usually sitting in the chair across the way.

 

Did some more test fitting. Had to use some old fans since all my good ones are way to thick for the screws to the radiator.

1: Here I removed the screw and just slid it under the lip.


2: You can run the lines right under the MB tray to the back


3: This is show that something would fit in the back or you could double stack with fans/rad/fans/rad with the other rad's lines on the opposite end. Not sure that would be beneficial, but it would be stealthy as hell.
Rad's is mounted inside with fans in a pull setup. I also had to use a grinder to widen the opening for the fittings to fit. Will need to get around to cleaning that up a little later. To lazy to buy the right one, but not to lazy to go get some nice looking fans. When the time comes.


4: Here it is mounted on the back. The two lines laying on the desk go to the water chiller. The QD's are setup in a way that I can either run everything all together or just run the rad or the water chiller or connect it to itself with no cooling.



5: I think I have something workable now.

 

https://imgur.com/a/G7KBeVh

Got an open box Maximus X Hero coming tomorrow. $160. Figure I'll sell the Strix 370-E since it's VRMs just can't keep up. 5.0Ghz is fine, but I want more.

Edit: So I delidded this afternoon with Conductonaut and holy ****. I have basically shaved off 100mV from my previous 5.2Ghz overclock. I am testing 5.2Ghz right now and bios 1.350v, with 1.328v under load in CB and it passes with 0 errors or freezing. LM is freaking magic. I am excited to get that new motherboard tomorrow to see what other magic I can pull off.

https://imgur.com/a/ripZ7FO -- 5.2Ghz 1.35v BIOS with 1.328v under load.

https://imgur.com/a/VwW7wuh -- 5.2Ghz 1.33v BIOS with 1.312v under load. She still hasn't begged for mercy yet. Gotta keep turning the screws.

This chip would do amazing in a laptop. I think I could run 5.2Ghz all day now with this voltage as a new daily overclock without fear of voltage wear.

Edit 2: Bottom found. 1.3v = crash at desktop. 1.315v passing CB and CPU-Z. Obviously I don't see anyway this will pass P95 or Realbench but I'll try anything once. Then it's time to see how high I can clock her. Tonight will be fun.

 

based on previous experience, you can expect anywhere between +15 and +40 mV additional voltage at a given multi to go from CB15 stability (10 consecutive runs) to P95 stability

 

That has been my experience as well with somewhere around 25-30mV being the sweet spot for finding a stable setting. I only use CB or Realbench in the beginning to find the absolute rock bottom and then work back up. It's always worked for me being a quick and dirty test.

 

i use the exact same tactics

 

Okay, I think I'm done for the time being. This is setup for benching and not the Gamer Boy show case studio floss and gloss system.
I am able to get at every corner of the setup at the drop of a hat. Totally movable as well.

 

Fugly AF and its gonna sweep the floor with all perfectly style n shiny systems out there